sapling111276

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About sapling111276

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  • Woodworking Interests
    scroll work, cabinet making, just about all woodworking

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  1. sapling111276

    MDF

    You guys are awesome. I will try all and see where I stand.
  2. sapling111276

    MDF

    Yeah, its definitely a huge jump but MDF sort of disintegrates as you sand it with most any grit paper. I used 120 to knock down the valleys created by my bandsaw and 400 to knock down any potential sand marks from the 120. The 400 is gritty enough to put a chamfered edge on the project pieces to remove sharp edges with little sanding as is. once I finished with the 400 I ran my hand over it and thought "hmm, feels just like the face edge now" Looks like the glue sizing could be the ticket. Thanks all
  3. sapling111276

    MDF

    I have been making nick-nack type items out of mdf board. I am using spray paint to cover them. My question is, how do I get the paint to hold on the edge... grain?!? While spraying up these items, the face edge takes the paint on quite well. I have sanded down the edges with 120 and then 400, so to me, the edge looks as dense and smooth as the face edges. The paint seems to soak in and then the edge color (brown) starts to bleed back through. I have even tried primer spray as a substrate to the actual paint layer.
  4. sapling111276

    General bandsaw questions

    No riser block here. I haven't read anything about a suggested blade but I will look over the manual again and see. It came with a 1/2" blade.
  5. sapling111276

    General bandsaw questions

    That's true k Cooper. Though I am happy with the test results, I know that this is only pine and just a test. I did get some new blades recently (timberwolf 1/2" and 3/4") but I will definitely look at the woodslicer blades. I don't mind spending the cash if the purchase is worth my while. Thanks all.
  6. sapling111276

    General bandsaw questions

    I just bought a 14" jet bandsaw. Attached is a picture of my first ever resaw. It was a test to see how bad the blade wandered and keep in mind that the blade was included in the purchase, so it's probably not the best quality. That said, is it normal to get a little smoke while resawing? The boards width is 3 1/2. Also keep in mind that there currently is no dust collection (working on this) so no air is being drawn across the cutting surface. When I got done, i tapped the blade and notice it was cool to the touch. The wood itself had no burning marks. The wood was pretty steady in thickness at .069 or just a little over 1/16th.
  7. sapling111276

    What's your angle here anyway?!

    The chimney was about 5 feet tall and I was baffled because it was propped up on some real 2x4s and a few pieces of tongue and groove pine as the bottom. What really got me wondering was, there was no opening to tie into the chimney. I ended up tearing most of it out. Some ended up in the cavity to cut down on how much waste I lugged down the stairs
  8. sapling111276

    What's your angle here anyway?!

    I cut a section out to replace. Oddly enough, there was an old decommissioned chimney in the wall and as it approached the roof line, it slowly transitioned over about 6 inches or so and the person who put the wood up, made a box-in to hide this. Your 100% correct. I flipped the board over and there is a bead going down the middle. This guy absolutely loved this stuff. My bedroom walls are this material, as well as a door he fashioned out of that wood for the basement. Oh and the previous noted project room I worked on. The ceiling is identical. It's an old farm house, so I suppose in a way it adds to that appeal. Sure as heck beats the plaster and lath that it's hiding.
  9. sapling111276

    What's your angle here anyway?!

    Ok, so I'm not just crazy lol. Thanks all. Gonna get that trim book and do some studying on the internet.
  10. sapling111276

    What's your angle here anyway?!

    Interestingly enough I literally just bought some orange shellac today about an hour before reading some of the tips you guys gave me. Thanks again on that. I will include a picture of the opposite dilemma. To me, it looks like trying to match up quarter round at odd angles presents a bit of a problem. The thing about what is in the picture is that I haven't even ripped off the 30 degree angle to accommodate the ceiling pitch and already (to someone inexperienced as I am) it appears there just isn't enough quarter round to achieve the matching angles. I will definitely have to find that trim book. I'm very limited on my tricks for that stuff. In a previous room (similar project) I made a corner block and cut 45 degree chamfers on the lower half to make them less obtrusive. That made making my trim work super easy. I have been messing with wood working for a little over a year now and I guess my inner monologue keeps jabbing me for now figuring this out by now.
  11. sapling111276

    What's your angle here anyway?!

    I will give it another try. I thought that was too simple and tried a few small pieces. I didn't buy a bunch extra, so I have to be conservative
  12. sapling111276

    What's your angle here anyway?!

    Essentially, you are viewing the outside skeleton of what I am currently explaining. I would need the interior upper angles or techniques
  13. Hi all. I am working on a newly made closet that I built in my daughter's room. The room has dormer/knee walls and this is what I built the closet into. That said, previous owners put flooring up on the ceiling and they did it in a way that everything is difficult to match new stuff up to. I am currently trying to put quarter round (3/4") against all ceiling portions of the inside of this closet. The ceiling pitch is 30 degrees. How can I make these corners match up? The upper corner will sit flat against the wall and ceiling, where as the section coming down will somehow need the inside 45 and 45 to make the 90, but then it has to angle downward to make the 30 degree dormer angle. I tried a few different compound cuts on my miter saw amd the closest i have come is to cut a scrap piece square for the upper ceiling portion and then taking a square piece on the 30 degree angle and slide it behind the upper piece and roughly sketching the rounded angle of the upper piece to the 30 degree piece. Then use a coping saw to hull out the meat that will make the corner joint. I have seen videos on this technique regarding crown moulding but I am struggling to find anything about multiple angles at 1 joint Ps, if you have a good answer, can you reverse this scenario for the lower piece? My initial thought for the lower piece is to lop off the 30 degree angle from the upper back piece of the quarter round but that seems a little dangerous to run through my saw at 3/4" I will take a picture when I get home to better show what I mean
  14. sapling111276

    Box banding strips, what should I do with them?

    Not to mention from what I read, oak is too porous for cutting boards. Thanks all. I guess I will hold on to some for the above listed tasks. Maybe if the boards I select are relatively straight, might make some picture frames. Though after planing from 5/8, they might end up pretty thin
  15. At work, we get these strips of oak that come in on the tops of all our raw material boxes. They are always oak. I just brought a load home. They have 2 measurements. 1.) 3 1/4"x53"x5/8", 2.) 3 1/4"x43"x5/8" There will be some clean up to do as the wood is all rough cut which means that by the time in done planing and trimming off the staples, I will have smaller dimensions. There is some twisting on some boards as well, so I may end up with even less usable wood in the end. Without turning all this nice oak into firewood, what can I possible do with all of this wood? Hate to see it go to waste. I was considering getting the wood flat and clean and then possibly turning it into a sort of oak plywood by gluing them together to make thicker useable stock. What's your ideas and suggestions?