sapling111276

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    scroll work, cabinet making, just about all woodworking

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  1. Ok, so attaching the bottom hinge first did not give me the results that I wanted. Instead, I predrilled some pilot holes in the center of where the mounting bracket goes. There are 2 screw places on the hinge and they are slightly sloped, so as I start to attach the bracket, it starts going a little wonky. To combat this, I put a screw into the center hole of the bracket and through the wooden shim I made. It's not pretty, but it's functional. If this were a commissioned piece, I would be doing something different. This is my first cabinet that I made that was supposed to be "pretty". I previously built my collect-all workbench, but that didn't need to be as pretty because it is out in my woodshop with little, to no traffic other than my own. Included is a picture of the cabinet in the bathroom. I still have to install everything, but you get the jist
  2. I realized after posting this that I must have just mounted the top hinge first and might be able to come up with a thinner shim for the top (less noticeable) hinge and still allow enough movement from the hinge adjustments to square it up. Fingers crossed
  3. So, I'm in the home stretch of my vanity build, or so I thought. I didn't realize until I was making my doors (inset), which happen to be the first doors I ever made, that my frace frame is just slightly out of whack. It's square in regards to the doors, and the doors themselves are spot in. I am talking about out of what front to back. I must have glued it late at night and was in a hurry to get to bed or something. I will include a picture, but my caliper says it is off by .089". So that's not terrible right? Well it makes the face frame euro style hinge not work. The wracking (is that the term?) carries all the way to the bottom hinge. What I mean is, if I mount the hinges where they should go, I can't adjust the hinges enough to make them sit flush with the faceframe. I cut a piece of maple (cabinet is maple) and tried to fashion a shim to sort of janky-square it up. This worked once, but the door makes the hinge bounce when it is fully opened and hits the limits. Now I can't get the hinge to sit square with the shim I built, so I am unable to adjust the hinge enough to make it even work. The only option that comes to my inexperienced mind is to get that twist out of the faceframe, or deal with the slight overhang when the door is closed. Taking the twist out will be tricky because in order to do that, I will have to try to break the glue free from the faceframe and the corner. Doing so without breaking a piece of the faceframe or the corner seems a little iffy. The glue is titebond 3. The glue has been set for a few weeks. Has anyone got any tricks or tips? I was looking around online for some kind of shim to make up the slack on the bottom hinge, but the only shim I can find is for the cup portion of that style hinge. In the pictures, I referenced the hinges I used (well half of one) and the mistake. In the mistake picture, you can see the glue that I left behind. I tried to circle the mistake, but for clarity, it's the section of the picture that is sort of facing right. The smaller of 2 potential gaps. The hinge picture may make this explanation a little easier to understand, as the mistake is in the background Thanks in advance.
  4. So... After cutting the center glue line that I felt was too gapped for my liking, I sent both halves through the jointer and even did a few passes through the planer to clean up some of the digs I put in the wood while handling them. This time around, when I glued the center line, the gap seemed even all the way across the joint. I used cauls to keep the boards from moving and then clamped the top everywhere I could fit a clamp. May have been overkill, but I had the clamps to spare. I know, I know. Usually we say you can never have enough clamps or that you never seem to have enough, bit I did. I pulled the clamps off, cleaned up any squeeze out I couldn't get to while gluing up and then sanded everything down. I know where the joints are because I made the piece, but they are almost unnoticeable to the naked eye. Can't wait to see the finished product. Thank you all for the chance to eat popcorn while you guys scrap over a long lived debate, and for all the knowledge and suggestions you gave.
  5. Last night I re-glued the center joint, this time focusing on a little more speed, so the glue got less air exposure. I purposely cut the boards a little wider than I needed, just in case there were mistakes. Also, I focused on a little more clamp pressure. Prior to applying the glue, I laid the 2 halves next to each other and felt that it was darn close to fully square, edge to edge. With a dry clamp (lightly) the joint seemed to almost disappear, leaving me not feeling great about the other 2 joints. We live and we (hopefully) learn. Is there such a thing as too much clamp pressure?
  6. Yes, I mentioned that I rotated the boards length-wise, but meant top to bottom as you mentioned. I am going to finish it with a clear poly of some sort. I have the stuff at home, but can't recall at the moment. I believe the wife and I agreed on a few coats of tung oil, let it dry and then go over it with oil based poly, as this will end with a vessel sink sitting on the surface and wanted to protect it from splatter, etc.
  7. Other side looks similar to this pic. As I mentioned in a lower reply, the jointer is new and the wings might need a good adjustment overall. I was avoiding this out of laziness and lack of knowledge, fully understanding that in order to get better with the jointer, that this was unavoidable.
  8. Ok, that makes a lot of sense. I will not use that app any longer as it seems quite frustrating. Thank you
  9. Thank you Tpt. I guess I don't know enough about these things. Does the app highjack your current installed browser? I can log in from the browser, it is the app I have problem with
  10. Wow this forum is super buggy. I cannot log into it on the app (network error), I have to open the forum as a web search. As for my jointer, I have tried several squares and it is dead on. Strange thing I noticed is that the fence appears to be slightly warped. Like a defect. At the beginning edge of the feed side of the fence it is square and it stays square up until about the last few inches of the fence. When I feed wood that is tall, against the fence, I focus on applying pressure hand over hand and not further than the cutting blades to hopefully rule out this as a potential issue. I have the Grizzly G0495X, which has a 8"x83" wing. I recently watched a youtuber and he pointed out that even if your planer fence is not square, you can still achieve a square glue up, as long as you alternate the board face length-wise so that when the faces line up, they have the exact opposite trapezoid-like face (if that makes sense), which is what I try to remember to do every time, no matter how square I think the fence is. The glue I use is either titebond 2 or possibly titebond 3, I am leaning toward 3. One thing I can mention is that I had a lot of open time, which may have been a little of my issue. I had put all 4 boards together and the clamps were not cooperating. I have a small shop with no assembly table currently, so I am gluing things up carefully on my brand new Sawstop saw surface. I have a piece of plywood down with a piece of craft paper over that. Side note, I have an assembly bench in the works as well... At arms length? I have really good eyesight. I can see this seem from arms length and I am probably being over critical on my first big project of this type. I want to believe my skills are closing in on expert, but more likely considered still very novice (with some fancy tools). As for the clamping pressure, you may be on to something. I read somewhere that you should have a clamp no more than 6" apart. I had quite a few on this glue up, but I am not saying that they were evenly spaced, or evenly clamped (pressure-wise). I watched another person on youtube that said you need to clamp them tightly enough to make good contact, but that a lot of newer woodworkers clamp wood together so tight, that they make things worse for themselves. So now, I am hesitant on clamping the wood with as tight as I can possibly make it. I just made some 4' wide parallel clamp boards that I sandwich the boards between and lightly clamp the wood (with alternating grain direction), while I apply the clamps that draw the joints together, in hopes of minimizing any joint wander or buckling. To Nick's point, the jointer may need adjusting for sure. I unpackaged it, tested it out and was happy with the results, but the testing was on wood that I was just cleaning up, not gluing together. The machine has been in my shop less than a month and a lot of that month I wasn't even in the shop because of other tasks
  11. Hey all. Been quite a bit since I was on last. Life really has a habit of getting in the way. Anywho... I am making a vanity top out of 5/4 hard maple and after I glued my joints up, I had a large enough gap that on the very ends I could stick a fingernail in between. I read a lot of articles on the course of action to take and in the end I cut the joint that had the gaps on my tablesaw so I could have another go ant this joint. I ran it across my jointer a few times because it seemed to me that the wood had the smallest bow and the ends were slowly pulling away from one another. Included is a picture of the joints that that to me were acceptable, but the question remains. Is this considered a tight joint? I've never done a table top glue up before. Maybe the consensus will be that this is perfectly normal. I just don't want to get to the finish line and trip over the joint mentally... thanks in advance for your suggestions. Bare with me if it looks impossible to get a tighter joint.
  12. Wow, thank you for all of this info. I do have a thickness planer.
  13. Also looks like the upper half of the back posts are slightly tapered to make the back rest slightly tilted back for comfort
  14. Looks like tiger oak but I will be using white oak. I am a little terrified of resawing as my saw tends to travel. I even went through the setup a few times to make sure I wasn't missing something. Though I was resawing white oak (can't promise they were square unwarped boards to be honest) and trying to make book match pieces for practice. I have a Jet 14" bandsaw with a Timberwolf 3/4" blade (don't ask me the TPI as I will have to go look at my saw lol). Im a little inexperienced with resawing wood and maybe even a little underprepared. The fence I purchased for the saw is a kreg fence that I never like to trust and end up measuring the front and back of the fence to the outside edge of the table to make sure it appears square. Anyway, I am aware that I need to build a taller fence addon to help with bigger pieces. Maybe with some practice, this will get better. I know that this task will be essential in this build if I intend to save money on some of the milling costs.
  15. Hi all, Looking to begin building a replica of a stickley hall bench (to the best of my novice ability). I have searched high and low and cannot find any plans that might break this build down to make it a little simpler to tackle. That said, can any of you give me your best determination on wood sizes in the included picture to get me started? I am thinking the lid is 3/4" and maybe the 4 posts (front and back) are 3x3?!? anyway, an ideas you guys have would be greatly appreciated. My only downfall right now is that I don't have a jointer, however, I have a supplier who pre-planes and joints their wood, so I will have at least 2 square sides to work with.