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Everything posted by Marmotjr

  1. Hey yeah, that'll do nicely! Thanks for the suggestions guys.
  2. Hey Guys! Long time no see! I'm designing out a desk for my computer and 3d printers and such. I plan on making it a large L shaped desk to go in a corner. The whole thing will be knockdown style, where the two end cabinets and the desk surface will be able to be disassembled and moved if needed. The desktop will be cut into two large panels, joined at a 45 in the corner. What I'm looking for is some hardware that will bridge the gap and pull the two mitered faces together. If I was gluing it up, I'd biscuit or loose tenon the thing, but since I want to be able to take it apart, biscuits probably wouldn't hold up loose over time, I don't have domino, and doing it manually on the edge of 3/4 ply isn't very appealing to me. So, I would like some hardware, under mounting might be preferred, that will pull the desktop in tight to the 90 I originally cut it at. The cabinets and the back leg will be attached by some runner near the floor, but it won't be strong enough to guarantee perfect placement until the desktop is in place.
  3. But it is getting close to raw poplar....
  4. On the PC, it should look like this:
  5. The simplest way to track threads on here is to use the follow system built into the forum itself. On the top right of each thread is a "follow" button, click that and click "no notifications" unless you desire otherwise. Then click your avatar in the very top right of the screen, and click "Manage followed Content". It will then list all the threads you are following, and you can pick what you want. It won't save or download any of the info for you, but it's a good way to keep track of the stuff within the forum.
  6. Whatever chuck you get, make sure it has a variety of jaws available so you can expand later. And from the department of don't do this... When buying additional jaws, pay attention to the ID/OD ranges, I have a small gap in the range of sizes my jaws can handle, and I always make a tenon/mortise that doesn't fit either!
  7. Woodturning might be part of woodworking in a a generic sense, but it's really kind of it's own thing. I know lots of turners who just turn, they don't do much, if any, wood working. I've been to pen turners club meetings at member's shops, where they might own 3-4 lathe's, but not a table saw or a router. It's kinda of like a piano player in a band. The band can be fine on their own without a piano, and the pianist can make a good solo career, but put them together, and everything is better. So if you have an interest in it, don't worry about how much or how little you know about 'standard' wood working, it's a completely different beast. It does have a very low barrier to entry, just get a cheap lathe, and some simple beginners tools, and you're off to the races. But turning is what most drug dealers must have based their business model on. The first taste may be free or cheap, but anything beyond that, you're gonna pay. You start off doing simple spindles, goblets, etc, then you need this to do that, and then I need to get one those do hickeys so I can do that other thing.... But if you're looking for some sets of turned pulls or whatever, post up in the turner's corner. Somebody might be willing to turn them for you at a reasonable cost.
  8. Aight... WRX might be the only car that gets a pass on mileage in this department. They're nice rides....
  9. What clunker is that? My turbo charged AWD car gets 31 mpg on premium, is 14 years old, will still do 140mph if I ask it to (I don't, but I have), has a 19 gallon tank so I rarely have to fill up even with my 46 mile commute, and I wouldn't be able to make that commute in the winter without the AWD. There's a big difference between AWD and 4WD. AWD is great for maintaining control and speed on roads in bad conditions. 4WD is great offroad, but just sucks extra fuel when you don't need it.
  10. I'd be scared if they were under compensating.....
  11. About half the shop have these. They are good inspiration for layout and design choices. Solid box. I would be looking at one of these if I was looking at a metal chest. Oh yeah, forgot. Finish. I was thinking just poly, but if there's anything better, I'm all ears. I'm kinda thinking I want the weathered look to set in over the years, so I'm not too worried about that aspect of it, but I don't want finish or glues getting gummed up. This is by far the cleanest shop I have ever worked in. Once a week the morning shift sets aside an hour or so to do a thorough cleaning of a section of the shop. Well ventilated too. I'm usually a stickler for respiratory protection, but in this place, I've had no thoughts at all about it. Ooh. Ipe Drawer pulls. I'll do my best. I have to get fully hired in, and then the company will subsidize the precision tools I need to acquire. Once I have those, then I can plan the main drawer sizes (those will get the foam), which will then dictate the rest of the chest. But don't hold your breathe, after getting burned out at the woodshop I was in, and a touch of depression that followed, I've still got two projects pending that were supposed to be Xmas gifts this past year. Most of my walnut is going to a chess board veneered (maple/walnut board) side table. I'll have to work from my stash, as I don't have the funds to be buying more lumber. So with budget concerns in mind, The large panels will be maple or cherry, I'm thinking Cherry perhaps since it will darken some over time. And maybe matched paduak drawer fronts, which will also darken some. I have a bunch of mahogany that may make up some structural pieces, maybe. Ply for the interior structure. Joinery. I'm lost as to what I should be doing. The drawers will be too small for good dovetails (that I can do). Maybe finger or small box joints for all the edges. I dunno. Still thinking.
  12. Working in a machine shop. I'm going to be building a tool box/chest to hold what tools I need for the job. Our QA manager has a Gerstner Chest, and it's inspired me to build my own. One, because I don't feel like dropping $2400+ on a tool box, 2) Cause I can, and 3) One of the guys in the shop makes boxes for micrometers, using pine and an Bridgeport. That's it, no sanding or nuttin, just a rough cut box using a end mill and some hinges. So I think I gotta show them up a bit ;). Once I start the build, and finalize the design, I'll start a project journal thread, but for now, this will do for ideas. So comments or ideas are welcome. I just have rough ideas in my head for now, a large lidded compartment on top, 6 (2x3) drawers int he middle, and 2-3 large full width drawers for the precision tools. Overall size would be roughly 24"w, 18"h, 12" deep, but that's just a ballpark. Handles on the sides for carrying (I don't need load bearing hinges on the lid then). 1) I have about 50-60 linear feet of .75"x.75" Ipe I acquired from my last job. I plan on putting that around the base and any other area that might encounter impacts. I want a nice looking chest, with nice details, but I don't plan on babying it either. It will be kept out in the shop area. 2) I plan on flocking all the drawer insides. The precision tool drawers will have cut fitted foam for each tool. I've used flocking in the past, and it's done well, but how well would it hold up in a tool chest? 3) Inlay. I'm thinking a border string inlay (probably curly maple, maybe cherry, sides with paduak inlay, Yeah it'll contrast, but I think I want that in a tool box), and then my initials on the lid. 4) Hardware, source? Brusso is an option, but I'd like to keep costs down, I have all the wood I think I'll need, so If I can keep the hardware costs to a minimum, that'd be great. I'm thinking Quadrant hinges on the lid, and drawer pulls similar to what you'd see on a library card catalog. Just some brainstorming going on, feel free to pile on.
  13. I think that's the key. You know what you are willing to spend on an item, so make that your highest bid. That will automatically bid for you until it hits that limit. You won't always pay that much, sometimes much lower. This way, you won't get caught up in any last second bidding wars. You don't watch the end of it, just let your automated bid do the work.
  14. Marmotjr

    Feet Up Rev 2

    I hope you made full use of the attractions there. Last I heard it was the world's largest open air aquarium. Pricey, but a really good family vacation spot, got things for all ages.
  15. Marmotjr

    Feet Up Rev 2

    Parents own a timeshare there. Isn't that place sweet?
  16. Having gotten to use a Glide, Kapex, Dewalt, and Hitachi side by side every day for a while at the shop I was working in, the Glide was by far my favorite to use. It lived up to it's name. But as mentioned, it does take some time getting used to, as the action is so smooth and easy, it's easy to be a little rough on it at first. Once it was tuned in, gave the best cuts in the shop.
  17. While I back him if he's right, I find it sad that PBS stations are being sued at all. Not that it's not justified, but that their funding is somewhat limited, and any losses from lawsuits directly affect the product, more so than commercial stations.
  18. When I was working with Nylon, we used 24 tooth, 18 in blades on the CNC saw, otherwise the plastic would melt. But the knife idea is probably your best bet.
  19. I second that. I have one of their bowl gouges, and I added a fingernail grind to it. One of my favorite gouges.
  20. You could add a featherboard to the fence, pushing the pipe down, too. That has a series of it's own issues too, though, but they are workable. If you have access to a 3d printer, I have a smaller featherboard that I designed specifically for vertical orientation available for download:
  21. Coming to this one late, but we built an entire BBQ setup for a patio out of Ipe. Stuff is hard as nails and won't rot.
  22. [Day Six: "The Hell?! Who mails a bobcat?!"] Throwback to: [You can do this 1 in 30 times and still have 97% positive feedback.]
  23. In my experience working in a pro shop, my Ryobi drill/driver combo held up just fine compared to the bigger brands, but that's a drill. Ryobi is a hobbyist brand as stated, though. If you're considering pneumatic, the 3M pneumo sanders I've used were great, aside from the lack of DC ports on them. But the exhaust blows away any dust. Pair it with an inline valved blower, and it's a great sander. But you'll need air cleaners, as it won't collect the dust, just blow it around. Not great for a small shop.
  24. Yessir, I did wander away for a bit. Working 60+ hours a week in a Millhouse, 'woodworking', burned me out, especially after pushing a bunch of Xmas projects out. Got sick of that place, quit, and had trouble finding work again. So being burned out, and depression kinda killed my passion for the craft, for a while. Getting back into it now. And now I'm working as a machinist running CNC lathes and mills, so the maker still lives within me, but I can enjoy my hobby without getting it crammed down my throat.