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About Art

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    Vancouver, BC
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  1. Art

    Mineral oil finish

    Thanks for all the replies. That's just what I needed to hear...
  2. Art

    Mineral oil finish

    I know the standard finish for cutting boards is mineral oil or mineral oil/beeswax. I've never actually seen or felt a board with this finish, so I'm wondering what they feel like? Do they have a greasy feel? I just finished two large end grain boards and finished them with Tried and True Varnish oil, and they look great, but it takes forever for them to cure, so I'll likely try MO next time, but I'm concerned about how they feel. Thanks in advance for any insight...
  3. Art

    The #140 Trick is Dead ....

    Thanks for the reply. I'll definitely be trying the blue tape trick now.
  4. Art

    The #140 Trick is Dead ....

    Does the tape on the pin boards (in the last photo) work well to register your saw against?
  5. Thanks for the reply. I'll check those out. Apparently there's not much of an issue bringing domestic hardwoods across the border. As long as bark is removed and it's kiln dried, there is no problem. I'd likely get the yard to put on the receipt that it's kiln dried. There is some duty to pay, but it would likely be minimal. The exchange rate is slowly improving, so I'd have to call to get pricing and then do the math to see if it makes sense. Our gas prices might be a problem - right now we're about $1.55/L which works out to about $5.90/gal, so the trip alone will add a fair amount.
  6. Does anyone have any recommendations for hardwood dealers in northern Washington State (ideally no more than 1 hour from the border)? I'm in Vancouver, and starting to think about a few larger projects (a Roubo has been in the plans for a while now). We have one really good dealer locally, but they can be pricey. If there is a good deal to be had just over the border, it may be worthwhile for me for to make the drive for a large order, and stock up for a while. Anyway, I would appreciate any recommendations. Thanks, Art
  7. Can you post a picture of the problem. I'm having a hard time understanding the issue. The bearing should be in the same plane as the blade, so as long as you're not tilting the router, your template shouldn't be cut. If the problem is that the template is too close to the workpiece, couldn't you attach a spacer (with double sided tape) to the bottom of the template to lift it up another ~1/8 or so?
  8. Thanks for the explanation about the front fence rail. I'll have a look at mine and see if it can be improved.
  9. I mean quality in terms of fit and finish, engineering, etc. And to be honest, manufacturer reputation also played into it. With almost no setup I am getting perfectly flat and square stock right off the machine, and no snipe that I can appreciate. Obviously not finish ready, but a few swipes with a scraper or some sandpaper is all it takes. It gives me glue ready edges with no problem. For sure, you are giving up some jointer bed length, but there are bed extensions available. They are't cheap, but when compared to the cost of an equivalent capacity jointer, the cost is still significantly less. When I was looking around, I was looking at a decent quality 8" jointer and a Dewalt 735, but when I realized that for about $1000 more I could get 12" capacity in both, with a spiral cutterhead, and have a smaller footprint, the decision was made for me. The reduced noise was a huge bonus. I also got a fairly good deal on my machine - I believe it was about $4200 CAD.
  10. I have the A3-31. First some background: This is my first machine for milling, so I don't have any experience with standalone machines. I work out of my 2 car garage, part of which serves as general storage, so floor space is very valuable. Cost wasn't a big concern for me, but after doing the math, I am convinced that these machine represent good value, in that you get excellent quality for both planing and jointing, with a full 12" of capacity, for much less than the cost of equivalent quality standalone machines. Again, I don't have much to compare to, but in my mind the surface quality is excellent - I have the spiral cutter version. They are also relatively quiet, with my dust collector actually making more noise. Switching between the two functions is very easy, and takes about 35-40 seconds. Dust collection is excellent with a decent DC attached. You need 220 outlet. As far as downsides, I find the fence to be a little weak. It is aluminum, and I find I check it every time I move it, and often have to make minor adjustments to make it square. Having said that, once adjusted it stays square as long as you don't actually move the fence. Although changing between modes is quite easy, it does mean you have to plan your workflow because you lose your planing width every time you go back to jointing mode. Overall, I am very happy with my choice and would recommend this machine, but if I wasn't constrained by space, I would definitely prefer standalone machines, but the price would hurt. Having a 12" capacity in all of your major machines (jointer, planer, bandsaw) also makes sense to me.
  11. Art

    Apothecary chest

    Looking forward to watching this build progress. I'm hoping to build something similar in the near future, although there isn't a chance I'll even attempt a curved front
  12. That's exactly what I was thinking. Sliding dovetails are something I've been wanting to try anyway.
  13. Thanks for kind comments. I started this project mainly to practice/learn new skills. After starting it occurred to me that I didn't have a place to put the finished piece, so I suggested to her she could use it as a nightstand (she's 10), so that became the plan. So it was never really designed for that purpose. Now that she's had it in her room and used it for few days, she now knows what she wants, so I'm going to actually build her what she wants. Essentially she wants a small cabinet without drawers but with wide but short cubby holes that she can put her books in. She usually has about half a dozen books she's reading at any given time, so this way each one will have it's own cubby hole. She has requested secret compartments again as well. The existing one will likely be given to her friend who saw it today and loved it.
  14. BTW, the drawers aren't finished. They still need finish prep and finish, and brass screws for the pulls. Also, the keen eyes out there may notice that I screwed up and should have put a half tail at the bottom of the drawer fronts to hide the drawer bottom.
  15. This is the cabinet with a couple of the drawers in it: Secret compartment (one of two in it): Current location of the drawers: Yeah, I think I'll just build myself another one...