Art

Members
  • Posts

    253
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    8

Everything posted by Art

  1. Art

    Jelutong?

    I've got a couple of carving projects I want to do, so I've been watching some of Mary May's videos to try to figure out what I'm doing. Basswood seems to the recommended wood to start with, but it's hard to source up here. I called my local dealer and they told me a lot of their carvers use Jelutong wood. It's fairly reasonble ($7 for 4/4), so I may pick some up to play with. Does anyone here have any experience with this stuff? Ie: is it comparable to basswood? Thanks, Art
  2. To me, that's the big factor, particularly on a project that uses as much lumber as a bench top.
  3. is just picked up a Rotex 125 before the prices go up, and got to use it for the first time this morning to start finish prep on my tool cabinet. I already have the ETS 125 which puts a great finish on, but is useless for anything that is remotely rough. After about 2 passes with the Rotex, I am glad I spent the money. I can see this combination being perfect for what I need. The Rotex just works, and makes me dread sanding a lot less... I went with 5" because I already had the ETS and figured they could share paper, and I really don't work on anything really big.
  4. I agree. If I had the option (without spending a fortune) I would have to loved to use 12/4 or 16/4 lumber for my bench.
  5. It's slightly different from what you're asking for, but I find the LED Magnifiying Light from Lee Valley to be invaluable on my bench. I've been doing a lot of dovetailing, and it's been great. It's very bright. The magnifying glass also comes in very handy. It comes with a clamp, but I also got the bushing to allow me to mount it in a dog hole: http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=76037&cat=1,43349&ap=1
  6. No problem . I've always been very interested in European history, and in particular the art and architecture of that particular period, so this whole episode is very fascinating for me.
  7. Your history is a little off. The flying buttress evolved during the gothic period of building (typically about 12th to 14th centuries - what most of think of as medieval). The Baroque period is generally acknowledged to be a later period. You're correct in the reason for the flying buttresses, namely that they allowed high vertical walls with minimal structure, but they are certainly became widespread during the medieval period.
  8. The podcast talks about those issues. Apparently, large French oaks don't really exist anymore so the debate about whether to use them or not is really academic. His take on it was that they will likely use modern materials (like laminated beams). After listening, I have to agree with him reasoning, although the romantic idea of rebuilding to the original is appealing, I can see it isn't practical or even feasible.
  9. I agree that it doesn't make "sense", but obviously it works structurally as it has for the last 700 years, and I believe there is something to be said for tradition. That's not to say it shouldn't be upgraded with respect todays fire standards, but building a steel framework in that building just seems wrong.
  10. You're probably right, but wouldn't it be nice to use this as an opportunity to train up a whole generation of craftspeople? I suspect there are many old buildings in France that could use some repair work, and this unfortunate incident could be the impetus to provide training. It certainly looks like money won't be an issue.
  11. That looks great! In comparison, some of these immaculate maple benches look a little boring.
  12. No problems. I'm always happy to have Americans appreciate the great sport of Hockey!
  13. Not at all. I think it helps that I'm not sweating all over the clamps. It honestly makes them much better to use.
  14. It's hockey tape. I got the idea from Rob Cosman. It must be a Canadian thing... It makes for much better grip. Here is a video:https://www.google.com/search?q=wrapping+the+end+of+a+hockey+stick&rlz=1C5CHFA_enCA701CA703&oq=wrapping+the+end+of+a+hockey+stick&aqs=chrome..69i57j0.7136j1j9&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=1
  15. Thanks, it's coming along. The problem is that once I've finished this, I'll have to start making real projects...
  16. Actually, I only have two hand planes myself (so far) The finish will likely be ARS, and the pulls will be these from Lee Valley (since I bought them when I first made the drawers): Thanks!
  17. So this is where I'm at now. Main case dry fitted. Drawers are from an old project (my daughter rejected them ). Next up is finish prep, glue-up and fitting the back. The large cubbies on the sides are for books.
  18. If you only have access to a handsaw, why not build a mitre box, but with the correct angle (use your table saw to get the initial cuts)? The cut face of your work piece will still have to be cleaned up, and that plane you have should be absolutely fine to do that. To get the angles perfect, the hand plane jig shown above could be used. Practice with some maple to get used to how the wood reacts.
  19. Wow, you've thought this out a lot more than I did I finished up my cubby hole area yesterday, and I ended up with spaces about 3 1/2" wide, based mainly on the space I had available and what looked good. I figured there will be plenty of storage space available, and if I made the cubbies too small, then that in itself would be a waste of space.
  20. Wide tenons, the mitered dovetails in Matt's tool cabinet, etc The width makes them really stable and give you a nice wide cutting edge.
  21. I bought the Narex set, up to 2", and find that it makes life much easier. I'm lazy/bad about sharpening, so I find that having a whole bunch of sharp chisels, which a full set allows me to have, lets me keep working. When I run out of sharp ones, then I can dedicate a hour or so to sharpening the whole set. I have also found the big ones (1 1/2" and 2") to be surprising useful for paring. Overall, Narex is reasonably affordable and I don't every see myself buying a really premium set, and it really helps my workflow. Having said that, I have certainly found myself in situations where I would have liked to have some of the more specialized chisesl (mortise, fishtail, etc), so I'll likely start buying those individually as needed.
  22. What you are trying to do is similar to cutting a raised panel for a door. Watch this video to get the technique. It basically describes what they guys have said above:https://www.google.com/search?q=cutting+raised+panels+on+a+table+saw&rlz=1C5CHFA_enCA701CA703&oq=cutting+raised+pa&aqs=chrome.0.0j69i57j0l4.3509j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=1
  23. I got a good chunk of the interior done. I'm using some drawers from an old project, so I'm trying to fit the case to the drawers, rather than the other way around, so the fit likely won't be perfect, but I'm ok with that. I've discovered that the router and I simply don't get along. It shouldn't be hard, but I really struggled with the dados for the interior dividers. A project like this is a good one to practice on though as any mistakes can be easily hidden, and it will never leave the shop.
  24. Looks good! By the time I got to this point I was tired of making it, so I started using it as a bench, and only got to the finishing details later on...
  25. Matt's plans end up at 39 1/2" by 29 1/2". I had some size restrictions as well, so mine will end up somewhere around 35" x 29". I'm using his plans mainly as a guide, and adjusting as needed for my own situation.