Art

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Everything posted by Art

  1. I've read pretty much every Roubo thread on here, but I don't remember this specific issue being discussed.
  2. I'm looking for some guidance from someone here who has built a Roubo with the BC Glide and Criss-Cross hardware for the leg vise. I'm just laying out the mortise and holes for the the hardware, and it looks like my screw nut will interfere with the upper leg rail. My bench will be 35" tall, and the chop is 29 1/2" tall. If you use the directions for laying out the criss-cross mortise on the leg and the chop, BC recommends a minimum of 3/4" of an inch of wood below the chop mortise, which is 19 1/2" long. If you then put your screw hole at the minimum 1 3/4" above the mortise, this brings the screw hole very close to the upper rail. I have the criss-cross hardware now, but Lee Valley has my Glide on backorder right now, so I don't know the diameter of the screw nut flange, but based on my layout, it certainly looks like the rail will interfere. I guess my questions are: 1) what is the diameter of the screw nut flange? 2) for those that have built this, how long was your chop? I'm beginning to think my chop is too short. I think this whole issue could simply be resolved by having a longer chop...
  3. Art

    Car Sick Dogs

    Dramamine (dimenhydrinate) is very safe and effective to use for motion sickness in dogs. It also can cause mild sedation, which often helps with longer trips. The dose range is about 2-4 mg per lb of body weight. Give it an hour or so before you plan to leave.
  4. I already bought some of the Lee Valley bench dogs - http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=31127&cat=1,41637 You can just about see them in the photos above. They are a little snug, but otherwise work well. As long as you drill 3/4" dog holes, there are quite a few options, in addition to making you own using dowel stock. I went this route because I also plan on drilling more dog holes in the top as I need them, so I figured this system would be more versatile than the traditional square dog holes. I'm also planning on adding a couple of dog holes to my Moxon vise table, so that everything will be interchangeable.
  5. Thanks! About the tail vise: I was on the fence as well, but I'm quickly starting to see it's benefits. All of the routing for the legs is made much easier using the vise. Basically, it allows you to hold a work piece very firmly and allow access all around it without any clamps getting in the way.
  6. Latest update. It's been a pretty good week as I've had a fair amount of shop time. I finished putting together both slabs, but haven't cut them to final length. I'll leave that until the end in order to get as much length as possible - likely about 79". They still need some clean up which will happen at the final flattening. The end cap turned out pretty good, with only some tiny gaps that filled nicely with glue and sawdust. I decided to just use dog holes rather than square dogs. The final width of the top will be 25 1/2". I've got a good start on the legs which are now all mortised and have their top tenons cut. The front Left still needs to be drilled and routed for the leg vise. The rails are almost done as well. As you will see in the photos, I added some visual interest to the bench. I got a good deal on some 4/4 quilted maple, so I incorporated that into the front laminate. I realize this is "just shop furniture", but as strictly a hobbyist who doesn't really have to justify costs, I figured it would look interesting. I'm planning on using walnut for the chop and gap stop, and will do some inlay in the chop as well. The best part of the this build for me has been getting more familiar with my router. Of all my tools, it's the one I felt most uncomfortable with. I'm still by no means completely proficient, but this project forces you to use it so much that you have to become more comfortable, so I'm not completely butchering wood when using the router now...
  7. I did the Spax (10" I think) screws for the end cap. I suppose they aren't technically as "strong" as the bolts, but there is no way those things are ever moving. If enough force is being applied to the bench where those screws are in danger of failing, then honestly, you have bigger problems to deal with.
  8. I priced out the cost of the BC plans and kit, and decided it wasn't worth it for me. My bench won't be a knockdown bench, so there was no need for that hardware. Marc's plans were sufficient for me. As far as width goes, mine will end up being a bit wider (~25-26"). It's easy enough to widen the slabs a bit, and after that it's just adjusting the small rails to fit. I built a BC Moxon vice about a year ago for a project that needed dovetails, and it was great. I don't dovetail a lot, but I make a fair number of other small projects, and the added height of the table (I built a small bench into the back of the Moxon) makes working on small, detailed projects much easier. As well the ability to clamp irregular shaped objects is useful. The only problem is storage, as it it about 30" x 12" and made of hard maple, so it is big, bulky and heavy. Overall though, I would do it again.
  9. Incredible piece. I love the look, and obviously the execution was (nearly?) flawless. Thanks for sharing.
  10. The pictures don't show the stinky hockey gear drying next to my stacks of wood, but that's not something anyone really needs to see... The branch is actually a Kiwi vine. It's awaiting some inspiration, but will likely end up as an art piece of some sort.
  11. I don't see any problem using them. I'd mill the 6" width to 4" (and as you said, you'd likely get some decent 4/4 boards as waste, which could then be laminated together to get your side rails). Once you flatten them, you will probably end up with 3 1/2 wide boards, so there's that much less gluing to do to get your tops. In order to keep construction simple, I would aim to keep the dimensions of the dog hole strip and front laminate as per the plans. I'm just finishing my tops now, and starting with 4" thick tops makes all the math much simpler. Obviously it can be done with a thinner top, but why not aim for 4" if you can?
  12. A couple of months ago I came across some oak logs that I roughly milled with a chainsaw. They're now waiting to be resawn into useable boards. Most of them are close to 12", so I'll certainly by putting the full resaw capacity of the saw to the test. Once I get them all cut, I'll post a review.
  13. The brake was what made the decision for me. My 11 yr old daughter and my wife are both getting more interested in working in the shop, so everything we get has safety in mind. Thanks!
  14. Yeah, I got the 2.5 hp. I already had 220 in the shop, and it was only $100 more for the bigger motor. I'm not sure it's worth it to upgrade your electrical to go from 1 3/4 to 2 1/2 hp on a 14" BS, but since it was already there, I figured why not?
  15. Time for an update... I finally got a new bandsaw, which makes life a bit easier: This allowed me to cut my leg blanks down to a reasonable size: As far as actual work on the bench, I got the slab tenon and cavity finished. They came out ok, but when I was just touching up the cavity, I got careless with my router and took out a pretty good gouge out of the the front slab. Luckily it is on the bottom, so although it will bother me to know it is there, it won't be seen, and will have no functional effect: Today, I got going on the end cap, got it fitted to the slab, and I will continue work on it over the next few days. I picked up the end vise just before Christmas, so I hope to have the whole front slab completed in the next week or so. I had a few issues getting a good fit of the end cap onto the slab, but a bit of fiddling with a block plane and chisel, and it is looking pretty good.
  16. Sorry I didn't respond earlier. They are identical on both sides. It is 1/16ths on the long sides and 1/32nds on the short sides. I have both the imperial and metric ones.
  17. I use my Veritas Precision Squares almost exclusively as rules: http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=66573&cat=1,42936 They are small enough to easily fit inside my apron pocket and essentially have the features you're looking for.
  18. I haven't had an inadvertent activation, but will certainly be following this thread. Thanks for posting your experiences.
  19. I have nothing to add other than to say that when I bought my A3-31, I had an electritian come in to wire everything up. I gave her the specs for all my machines and let her decide what they needed. The Hammer ended up with a 30A circuit...
  20. Is this dealer setting up their machines incorrectly? This should not be happening...
  21. Looks like fun. Looking at stuff like this makes me wish we lived in the country...
  22. Thanks for the info. I'll look at it as a good workout.
  23. Any final flattening will be done with hand tools. I'm hoping that there isn't to much to do. Once the laminations are done and perfectly flat, how much should I expect it to move? My planer (Hammer A3-31) has a spiral cutterhead so there hasn't been any tear out, and as far as I can tell, there is no snipe. Having said that, I still haven't taken them to final length, so any snipe will get chopped off anyway.
  24. That's good to hear. I do think, however, that I'll take them down to an even 4", just because I like round numbers. That extra 1/16 was bugging me... And for the record, the plan is to use the Gramercy holdfasts, mainly because they're easy for me to get at Lee Valley, and the fact I've heard nothing but good things about them.
  25. Yeah, I thought about that as I was posting. I think I will take them down a bit.