Art

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Everything posted by Art

  1. Art

    Bandsaw question

    I just had a look at their website, and they automatically convert their prices into CAD$. They are expensive! The equivalent saw to the two I'm looking at (14" 2-3hp, foot brake) is the G0817 and is listed at $2523 CAD. Without the brake (G0457) is $2060. The only one that seems reasonable is the 17" 2 hp G0513 Anniversary Edition at $1508, but no brake... Overall their pricing seem all over the place. Why would they price a 17" less than 14" with the same motor?
  2. Art

    Bandsaw question

    Thanks, Kev. For sure I'll give them a call.
  3. Art

    Bandsaw question

    I thought about that, but I'm not sure what the tariffs would do to the price. The good thing about both of these machines is that they are (presumably) imported directly into Canada, and therefore aren't subject to any new tariffs. Having said that I'll look into Grizzly. There's also a guy selling a Hammer N3800 locally, but he's asking $2800. I may shoot him a message to see if he'll take $2000. Edit - I just checked and the Hammer apparently doesn't have a brake. That's surprising to me...
  4. Art

    Bandsaw question

    Again thanks for the replies. The price difference doesn't just get you the brake. It is an increase in power, but also I'm from Canada where everything costs more compared to the US. In reality, the cost difference between the two Laguna models is closer to $500. There is a bigger price difference between the two Rikon models...
  5. Art

    Bandsaw question

    Thanks for all the replies. I know that the brake isn't the same as the one on the Sawstop (and Coop, you're right, the brake wouldn't have made any difference in Davids incident). Based on the feedback here, it sounds like those that have used saws with brakes are in agreement that they are a useful option. It sounds like it just comes down to money. I think I've made up my mind. When I do purchase, I post a pic
  6. I realize that questions comparing new bandsaws have been done to death, but I'm looking for opinions on a very specific question. Is the brake a worthwhile option? I'm down to Laguna vs Rikon. Originally I was choosing between the Laguna 1412 and the Rikon 10-326, both of which I have no doubt would serve me perfectly. However, I would prefer to have a saw with a safety brake, which moves me up to the Laguna 14bx or the Rikon 10-353. This adds about $700 CAD to the price. However this also gets you a more powerful saw (2 1/2 or 3 hp vs 1 3/4). I already have 220 in the shop, so that isn't a big issue. My thinking is mainly from a safety point of view, as well as convenience. I already have a Sawstop, so that gives you an idea of how I value safety, and and my 10 year old daughter is spending more and more time in the shop with me, so this issue is always front of mind for me. To sum up: is this feature worth the price? To those that already have a brake, would you ever go back to a saw that doesn't have one? Thanks, Art.
  7. Nice space. I agree with the "Most Important Thing in the Shop". I have one as well...
  8. I recently discovered that these drill press lathe attachments exist: https://www.amazon.ca/Woodstock-D4088-Lathe-Attachment-Drill/dp/B005W16YJS/ref=sr_1_1/143-0305279-9664667?ie=UTF8&qid=1535038056&sr=8-1&keywords=lathe+attachment+for+drill+press Does anyone here have any experience or comments about them? I thought it may make a reasonable tool for smaller turned items without having to invest in an actual lathe.
  9. I also have the new Ridgeline, but I hadn't heard it described that way. I like it! I'll definitely be using that description.
  10. I've sealed my gilding in the past using artist's varnish such as this: https://www.deserres.ca/en/lversat This isn't the exact one I've used, but is a similar product. A little goes a long way. Obviously this isn't meant for large furniture projects, but for small pieces it works great. I would talk to someone in an artist supply store who know what they are doing for specific product recommendations. Whenever I need artists materials I go to DeSerres, but I'm sure you can find a similar type store in the US.
  11. I've done a bit of gilding, so my first bit of advice would be to practice beforehand to get your technique down. If you use an artificial silver leaf product, they don't seem to tarnish as easily. If that is the case, why bother sealing them at all, since this isn't a project that is meant to last for a long time?
  12. I carved a pattern that required a cove-like depression using bench chisels to hog out the bulk and then refining the curves with a combination of sanding and curved scrapers. The finished product was quite smooth and even. The point was to use whatever you have for bulk removal and then take your time with scrapers to get the profile you want.
  13. Art

    Occupation

    I'm a veterinarian. I'm a partner in 2 clinics, working only on dogs and cats. This is a second career for me, as I was in the military (Navy) for 10 years. If anyone ever has any questions about their pets, feel free to ask and I'll do my best to help.
  14. I was where you were a couple of years ago. I got comfortable with my table saw by making a bunch of shop cabinets, mitre saw table and a hefty workbench/outfeed table (made out of 2x4s and a maple top from Ikea). The point was that I just started cutting stuff, getting familiar with the saw and how it reacted. I also spent a bunch of time looking at youtube videos on table saw safety, kickback, etc. I use some easy shop made push sticks and am always very wary. Just go for it, safely... It was only after I had made a bunch of shop furniture that I bought my first bit of hardwood and started messing with that.
  15. Art

    Mineral oil finish

    Thanks for all the replies. That's just what I needed to hear...
  16. I know the standard finish for cutting boards is mineral oil or mineral oil/beeswax. I've never actually seen or felt a board with this finish, so I'm wondering what they feel like? Do they have a greasy feel? I just finished two large end grain boards and finished them with Tried and True Varnish oil, and they look great, but it takes forever for them to cure, so I'll likely try MO next time, but I'm concerned about how they feel. Thanks in advance for any insight...
  17. Thanks for the reply. I'll definitely be trying the blue tape trick now.
  18. Does the tape on the pin boards (in the last photo) work well to register your saw against?
  19. Thanks for the reply. I'll check those out. Apparently there's not much of an issue bringing domestic hardwoods across the border. As long as bark is removed and it's kiln dried, there is no problem. I'd likely get the yard to put on the receipt that it's kiln dried. There is some duty to pay, but it would likely be minimal. The exchange rate is slowly improving, so I'd have to call to get pricing and then do the math to see if it makes sense. Our gas prices might be a problem - right now we're about $1.55/L which works out to about $5.90/gal, so the trip alone will add a fair amount.
  20. Does anyone have any recommendations for hardwood dealers in northern Washington State (ideally no more than 1 hour from the border)? I'm in Vancouver, and starting to think about a few larger projects (a Roubo has been in the plans for a while now). We have one really good dealer locally, but they can be pricey. If there is a good deal to be had just over the border, it may be worthwhile for me for to make the drive for a large order, and stock up for a while. Anyway, I would appreciate any recommendations. Thanks, Art
  21. Can you post a picture of the problem. I'm having a hard time understanding the issue. The bearing should be in the same plane as the blade, so as long as you're not tilting the router, your template shouldn't be cut. If the problem is that the template is too close to the workpiece, couldn't you attach a spacer (with double sided tape) to the bottom of the template to lift it up another ~1/8 or so?
  22. Thanks for the explanation about the front fence rail. I'll have a look at mine and see if it can be improved.
  23. I mean quality in terms of fit and finish, engineering, etc. And to be honest, manufacturer reputation also played into it. With almost no setup I am getting perfectly flat and square stock right off the machine, and no snipe that I can appreciate. Obviously not finish ready, but a few swipes with a scraper or some sandpaper is all it takes. It gives me glue ready edges with no problem. For sure, you are giving up some jointer bed length, but there are bed extensions available. They are't cheap, but when compared to the cost of an equivalent capacity jointer, the cost is still significantly less. When I was looking around, I was looking at a decent quality 8" jointer and a Dewalt 735, but when I realized that for about $1000 more I could get 12" capacity in both, with a spiral cutterhead, and have a smaller footprint, the decision was made for me. The reduced noise was a huge bonus. I also got a fairly good deal on my machine - I believe it was about $4200 CAD.
  24. I have the A3-31. First some background: This is my first machine for milling, so I don't have any experience with standalone machines. I work out of my 2 car garage, part of which serves as general storage, so floor space is very valuable. Cost wasn't a big concern for me, but after doing the math, I am convinced that these machine represent good value, in that you get excellent quality for both planing and jointing, with a full 12" of capacity, for much less than the cost of equivalent quality standalone machines. Again, I don't have much to compare to, but in my mind the surface quality is excellent - I have the spiral cutter version. They are also relatively quiet, with my dust collector actually making more noise. Switching between the two functions is very easy, and takes about 35-40 seconds. Dust collection is excellent with a decent DC attached. You need 220 outlet. As far as downsides, I find the fence to be a little weak. It is aluminum, and I find I check it every time I move it, and often have to make minor adjustments to make it square. Having said that, once adjusted it stays square as long as you don't actually move the fence. Although changing between modes is quite easy, it does mean you have to plan your workflow because you lose your planing width every time you go back to jointing mode. Overall, I am very happy with my choice and would recommend this machine, but if I wasn't constrained by space, I would definitely prefer standalone machines, but the price would hurt. Having a 12" capacity in all of your major machines (jointer, planer, bandsaw) also makes sense to me.
  25. Looking forward to watching this build progress. I'm hoping to build something similar in the near future, although there isn't a chance I'll even attempt a curved front