jahill5

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About jahill5

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Apparently it is mostly reducing large pieces of wood into smaller ones.
  1. Alright everyone. Thank you for all the assistance. I ended up lap sanding on the sandpaper/glass setup I mentioned. I used the pencil trick to tell when the surface was evenly being sanded, and then glued up with Titebond 3. Here are a couple photos post-glue up and trimming. The joints came out really nice. The wife is happy and excited, and I get to move on to my own projects. Thank you all again.
  2. Ok so... Moving forward here. I'm gluing some sandpaper to a piece of glass and I'm going to attempt to clean this up that way first. Depending on the results, I may still go with the epoxy glue plan. As much as I'd like to start modifying the project, the glue up is the only part of this one that is actually mine. The rest is the Wife's project, so I'm going to refrain from making changes.As there are a few of these to do (Yes she's making Christmas gifts) I'll post results after this next one.
  3. It goes deep. Pretty much all the way through. I have tried the "let's use all the clamps I own" trick, to no avail.
  4. Hey Guys, I'm looking for some advise/opinions. I'm face gluing two pieces of 8/4 Maple together to create a turning blank for a rolling pin. During my dry clamp up, I noticed I have some small gaps. My feeler gauge gives me .0039 inches (.1 mm). I usually glue up with Titebond 3. I'm worried that I'm going to end up with cracks in my finished piece where the gaps were. As background info, the boards were surface planed to thickness, and the few planer nick lines were cleaned up with a card scraper.I have a couple blanks to glue up, and each one seems to have this small issue. My current idea (I only really have one) is to switch to epoxy for the glue up, in order to have a gap filling adhesive. I'd appreciate some feedback, and ideas. Joshua
  5. It's a Dewalt DW708 Type 3. So here's the follow up on all this. I dropped my saw off at the Dewalt Factory Service Center in Seattle for a tune up (I have never done on myself, and honestly wasn't interested in doing so). They told me that there was going to be no problems, that parts were available (I specifically asked), and that the project would take two weeks. In two weeks I called in and was told that they had gotten behind. Not a problem, I wasn't in a rush. Two weeks later I called in again, and was told that it still wasn't done. Two weeks later, I called in again and was told that the saw would not be serviceable as parts were not available. I went up to Dewalt to pick up my saw. (Keep in mind this is after they had it for six weeks) When I got to the counter they rolled out a fully disassembled saw. I asked why it was all in pieces and the salesman directly told me that since no repairs were made, and there was nothing to bill me for, there was no way to recoup the labor fees for reassembly. I calmly pointed out that I had brought in a fully functioning saw, and expected to leave with my saw in the same condition as I had brought it in. The salesman, paused for a minute, and asked me to step out for a cup of coffee and come back in :20. When I returned, the salesman presented me an assembled saw, which he promptly pointed out, still wouldn't work. When I asked why, he said that it was missing parts. At this point I was getting fairly hot. I pointed out that it was fully functioning when it came in, and that if it was missing parts they had gone missing while it was there. I further pointed out that they had better "find" some parts pretty quick. He disappeared into the back. While waiting, another customer in the store told me that service there was always like this, and recommended against having them service anything in the future.. The salesman reappeared and produced parts for me. When I went to load the saw into my truck, I realized that it had not been properly, or carefully assembled, and that nothing was tight. Deciding against a further fight, I took the saw home. Following the advise of everyone here, I ordered parts and began a tune up. At this point I discovered that one of the brushes was completely missing, and the brush cap was not the correct one (it didn't even fit into the hole). Many screws were missing, and plastic parts were just smashed into place. They obviously had not even reassembled it with all of the correct parts. It's still on my bench waiting on a few more small pieces. With luck I will be able to get it going again. I do not think I will ever patronize that business again. Thank you to all of you for the feedback and assistance.
  6. Hey Guys, I have access to both flat sawn and VG walnut. I'm looking to build a mirror frame. Specifically it is going to be essentially Marc's mirror. Does anyone have any tips on pros or cons of using either type of wood?
  7. It's a Dewalt DW708 Type 3.
  8. Jfitz, I'm not sure. The saw still works, but seems to be taking a bit longer to come up to speed, and loses power on bigger cuts. I suspected it needed a cleaning, and perhaps new brushes. Nothing seems to indicate bearing issues, or gear box problems, and all the wiring and switches seem to be fine. I am somewhat quickly realizing that the day and age of "repair" seems to be gone. Warranty service is tough enough; but once you start looking for someone who can replace a bearing, or a brush on a tool they can't just call the manufacturer on, everyone starts looking at you like you have three eyes. I completely get the "new saw" approach, but man... throwing things that can be fixed away always rubs me the wrong way. It's a whole other topic, but I think the "disposable" attitude these days is really causing a ton of society's problems.
  9. Hey All, I live in Tacoma WA. I have a Dewalt sliding miter saw that needs a little mechanical work. I've tried the factory service center in Seattle, but they are unwilling to help me, as they can not replace all the broken pieces (trim, guards, dust chutes etc) to get it back to factory specs. I'm not concerned with all the trim pieces, I'm only concerned with motor parts. Electrical motors are not my forte, and honestly I'd rather spend my free time working "with" my tools, not "on" them. Does anyone have a recommendation for a tool repair business in my area that is willing to work on tools (like an old school repair shop), and is not all wrapped up around plastic parts and factory specs?
  10. Hey Guys, I have a kitchen remodel under way, and I'm trying to match a finish. Of course this is complicated, which is why I'm tossing this out to you guys. I have attached a couple photos of the finish on a buffet sideboard. I am trying to put a finish on some cherry cabinets, and am trying to match the style to the buffet as possible.The existing stain seems to be semi-transparent. I've never had to match something existing before, so any help or suggestions as to what the existing finish may be, will get me started (and will be much appreciated). The color is going to be similar, but not exact. I attached a third photo of the color chip (it's a viking range color). Any ideas on what sort of product to use to achieve that color will also be appreciated. Joshua
  11. Good Evening, I am working on a fairly simple project. It is a set of trivets. The design is pulled from Nick Engler's Weekend Projects by Rodale Press. The design is similar to the attached photo (stolen from the internet, not my work). I am having trouble getting a clean bottom on the dado cuts. It seems that my stack is leaving a fairly decent mess at the bottom of the cut. This has never been a problem, as the bottom has never been visible in my other projects. Attempts to sand have not turned out so well. Does anyone have a suggestion either for a blade (I don't need a loan to buy) that will leave a cleaner cut, or for another way to clean this up?