BillyJack

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Everything posted by BillyJack

  1. Threaded insert and hanger bolts. Cut to size on the machine thread....
  2. How much you going to use the sander? Do you want it to oscillated and the option for a drum sander attachment? I bought a grizzly many years ago. Its a 6x80 and works great. I e used this sander a lot... Personally I would buy the griz edge sander and oscillating sander if I was young...
  3. I try to stay away from veneer in as much as possible. I've had some larger projects like tables go belly up. It happens from time to time in production and I'mnot amune. ...
  4. 1/4 inch birch veneer mdf 4x8. The same as you would use for cabinet flat panel doors for your kitchen...
  5. One thing I learned when it comes to making furniture. Patterns don't lie. Calculations can easily be incorrect. When I make my tables I don't use calculations I simply draw it out fulls scale and Bingo everything works. I go to home depo and get that cheap wide paper that they sell to put on the floor when remodeling. Or you can get a deal on butcher paper. Do it once and Get er Done.....
  6. We usually run square steel underneath the tops. Buy it by the foot if possible,drill and screw to the bottom. Here it is on the bottom. Sometimes its dadoed in...
  7. The plastic ones are nice. At one time I really wanted one but now it would be wasted. That's the problem with growing old..
  8. They want them back in any case. The only way to verify false activation or not is to anodize each activation. I think as long as you work with them they'll easily work with you...
  9. I think there was a total of three teeth replaced and then resharpened....I think the first question for the sharpened should be if it's warped and then proceed to replace and resharpened blade.. in our case it wasn't warped...
  10. Glad it was a light accident. When ours activates it really kills the blade. At least a $150 hit...three different times....
  11. There there to support the top, but not fastened to the top.sometimes we will dodo these I but in this case the drawings did not require these but I refused to make it without cross members so I added them after the fact....they are assembled with Dominos
  12. Sounds like your cutting backwards towards the garage door. Is this correct?
  13. I would look into the harbor freight clamps. There's a lot there to get started with. Your gonna need a lot of various clamps. Buy as you need...
  14. Have you check with local cabinet shops.?
  15. Your way back. My saw sits 9' from the door to cut sheet goods. The light is just beyond the door when fully opened. I keep the door closed to acclimate unless I'm cutting longer lumber...
  16. How much between the door and the front of the saw when closed?
  17. Mines mounted above on the ceiling in front of the door works fine.
  18. I stopped hoarding screws and bolts. Starts taking a lot of room. Buy as I go keep only what I need...mainly cabinet fasteners,bolts for jigs and pins and staples for pnuematic guns.
  19. You will have to keep an eye on Ebay and any other place you can think to look.
  20. That's the thing.. What the price range? You can specify a $150 blade only to find out they only want to spend $75..
  21. We made solid wood cabinets in the early 80's. We also built in the sofits in the cabinet. That was a long time ago. 1x12 pine was used the but now it's all plywood. You can save the headaches of just using sheet goods with a variety of choices. Put your time and money into specialty items for your cabinets. Nobody looking inside your cabinets ..... I'm often, if I had the a bigger kitchen amazed at the European style cabinetry. A lot of tricks we here miss on out cabinets...
  22. You can't move the fence back on a Sawstop....
  23. Pneumatic is all we use on large shops or factories. Hey don't pay enough for me to use electrich when pnuematic is faster and not as hard on your hands... Good pneumatic sanders can be bought for $150-$200
  24. Blow oil out the back side? I would NEVER use electric when pneumatic is available.