BenMinshall

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About BenMinshall

  • Rank
    Apprentice Poster
  • Birthday 07/27/1982

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Mason, MI
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture and cabinets.
  1. Exactly right. It's a reasonable interpretation for him to decide the DC is a "continuous load" per NEC definition and require the separate circuit. One could do some code gymnastics to decide otherwise but I think he made the right call. Some local jurisdictions would consider any building with three phase service to be commercial, so you might have gotten a bit closer look from the inspector than a typical residential shop might. In fact a lot of power companies will not even install a three phase service to a property unless it is zoned commercial land.
  2. That isn't exactly right -- you can't directly add up amperage from 120V loads and 240V loads. You have to convert to power (watts) to get an aggregate draw on the service or do a circuit-by-circuit analysis for the panel box. Remember the service to the building is a split phase 240V/120V at 50A so it is actually capable of powering 100A of 120V loads or 50A of 240V loads or some combination of the two. I think you meant to say power. A motor that can be wired for either 120V or 240V will draw half the amperage at 240V. The power (watts, horsepower) will be the same at either voltage. This
  3. A 30A circuit is far too big for a 2HP motor. The 2HP jointer draws about 6.5 amps (1600W / 240V) which means it should have a 15A breaker on the circuit. NEC requires that breakers for motor circuits be no larger than 200% the actual draw of the motor (in some rare cases 250%). Because there are no 10A breakers, you go up to the next available size of 15A. This size circuit can be run with wire as small as #14. There is no problem with using #10 other than it is unecessary expense.
  4. It is always best to look at the manufacturer's nameplate on the machine to figure the electrical load. The sales department is often very generous with the HP rating printed on the front of the machine; the nameplate on the back will be much more realistic. There are two critical numbers to look for: minimum circuit ampacity and maximum overcurrent protection device (OCPD). The MCA is used to determine what size wire must be used to supply the machine and the max OCPD is the largest allowed breaker (or fuse) to protect the machine's circuit. The other important number to look for is the f
  5. Hi Jwest, At a 150-200ft distance you are going to want to upsize the wire a little bit to compensate for voltage drop, probably up one size. For example a 60A panel would normally require #6 copper wire, you should run #4 copper. My recommendation is that a 60A panel and feeder would be adequate for a one-map shop, but if you have extra room in the budget go ahead and install a 100A panel and feeder if you think your shop might expand. A reasonable compromise is to install larger conduit and a 100A subpanel with only 60A feeder from the house; if at some point in the future you need mo
  6. Approximately how far is it from the main panel in the house to the subpanel in the barn? I assume you want to plan to be a one-man shop (e.g. one major tool on at a time)? Do you want to plan for HVAC or hot water in the shop?
  7. When I got mine through the rebate it was only about a week before the mobile base arrived via UPS. Adding the mobile base after the saw was assembled was really no problem. Just undo two bolts from the two legs at the end of the extension table and fold them up. Tilt the motor over to the 45 degree position and the saw will be really easy to tip up to the side and balance it on the end of the rails. This provides plenty of access to install the casters and lifter mechanism.
  8. It depends a lot on exactly what kind of furnace (and probably water heater) you have. It is very dangerous to seal off a gas or oil burning appliance if it does not have access to a fresh air supply that has been sized to match the BTU of the burner. The burner must take in enough air to completely burn the fuel and to create enough draft for the exhaust to make it out the flue. If this doesn't happen, carbon monoxide can build up in the house which is extremely dangerous. I would strongly recommend you consult with an HVAC installer in your area to perform a "make-up air" calculation for
  9. BenMinshall

    Red Elm

    This is a table I built out of Elm. I didn't find it to be that enjoyable of a material to work with compared to maple, cherry or other domestics. The 2.49 price doesn't strike me as all that great either. I got this batch of elm for free, but after having worked with it I don't think I would ever buy any.
  10. Whenever you're sizing a panel, you should always work in watts (or kilowatts) instead of amps. This is how you can account for 120V and 240V loads in the same calculation. When figuring tools marked in HP, you can count roughly 800 watts per horsepower; it doesn't matter whether the tool is wired for 120V or 240V. When counting up loads other than tools (lighting, heaters, etc), simply add up the wattage of the bulbs or the value supplied by the manufacturer. You only need to sum the loads which you expect to be on at the same time. In a one man shop that basically means you only need
  11. Your jointer should be fine for pieces that length. I find it helpful to use an actual ripping blade when working with hard maple to reduce burning. The 40 tooth you bought is really on the high end in my opinion for rip cuts, although it's ideal for cross cuts. I use a 24 tooth blade like this one: http://www.amazon.co.../ref=pd_cp_hi_3 to rip maple. Other species you can get away with a 40 tooth combo for rips and crosscuts, but maple burns so easily.
  12. I would probably go with hard maple, just based on my experience digging around at the lumber dealer. I've always been able to find better looking clear boards in hard maple than in soft which is often more streaky and may have some more imperfections. As far as the performance of the cutting board surface I don't think it would really make much difference.
  13. You can make an estimate by taking the power consumed by the tool in kW (1HP is approximately equal to 0.75kW for tools labeled in HP) and multiplying it by the number of hours per month you expect it to run. Make these estimates for all your tools and add them up. Make sure to consider your heating and cooling systems if those are electric, your light fixtures, and add a little for overhead. Example: 2 HP dust collector running four 40 hour weeks. 2HP * 0.75 * 40 * 4 = 240 kwH of energy consumed by the dust collector over four 40 hour work weeks. Example: Twenty 32W fluorescent lig
  14. Just an FYI post: That is an older style of dryer receptacle officially called a NEMA 10-30R. These were used from WW2 up until the 1996 electrical code when they were replaced with the safer four-prong 14-30R receptacles. The same thing happened with electric ranges, just the 50A version 10-50R to 14-50R. The three wire versions were introduced during WWII to conserve metal by using the three wire cables instead of four, with the understanding they were somewhat less safe but the metal was needed elsewhere. Due to lower installation cost for builders, they managed to keep the code