Mr. Redwood

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About Mr. Redwood

  • Birthday 03/20/2001

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    General woodworking

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  1. Unfortunately I didn't finish the inside of the hollow cavity (would have been hard to trace and paint the inside without missing or over doing it) so the back of the veneer is raw wood. Would an oil work better?
  2. I think I'm definitely going to try some tests with Tru oil vs Danish oil. Beautiful ukulele it looks like a dream to play.
  3. Luckily I'm shipping it off to the Salt Lake City area so perhaps it won't be that bad. The buyer is an experienced player so hopefully he knows how to care for wood. The finicky thing is that top because some of the wood is floating while the rest is sealed to the body with titebond 3.
  4. The veneer would move and the glue lines (on the veneer) would raise through the finish. But to be fair that guitar was an experiment that I finished with spray paint and buffed with wax. It was definitely more of a wood issue than a finish issue... Probably a mix of both, but I was wondering if there is a finish that would help combat that issue.
  5. Hey everyone, I have worked myself into a corner and am now sending out an SOS. I have just finished staining a guitar that I've been paid to build, and I have come to a crossroads. The body is made of red oak (1½") and the face is white oak (¼") the issue I have is the guitar is hollowed out below the "veneer" so I need a finish that can seal and protect it from moving alot (that has already happened with past guitars) I currently have applied 3 coats of black minwax oil stain (5-10 minutes of dry time buffed off excess) and it has been sitting for 2 days, I leave for college in 10 days and I would love to have it roughly finished and curing while I'm gone. I was leaning towards brushing lacquer but I would love the look of a hand rubbed finish that will seal and protect the guitar. For you guys I'm sure this is a no brainier but I'm stuck between 1.) brushing lacquer (watco) 2.) Wiping varnish (general) 3.) Danish oil/wax and (watco/minwax) 4.) Giving up because I despise finishing Any insight will be greatly appreciated, as an FYI a poly or plasticity looking finish wouldn't be ideal, and if you couldn't tell already I'm quite novice when it comes to finishing (just impatient) Thanks Alot guys!
  6. I started finishing my second ukulele a few days ago, currently I have three coats of Formby's Tung Oil fully dried and "polished" with very fine steel wool. I will continue to put on another few coats until it is nice, smooth and glossy, but after that I want to protect it in some way and I wondering if the tung oil will be durable enough for an instrument, and if not what do I use? on my first uke I used some minwax paste wax but that left a matte finish that looked amateur and it didn't work well with making the grain stand out so I'm worried there isn't an easy solution. The way I build ukes is very peculiar and the body is 60% exposed endgrain so I'm hoping there is an easy solution that I haven't found yet. and with instruments like the one I built I need to keep the finish thin, so that cuts out a few obvious finishes. I didn't fully polish the fret board so you guys can see the before and after the steel wool provides. Any advice is appreciated. The body is made of mahogany and the neck is walnut/maple
  7. I've never had any problems with gluing redwood, just like any normal glue up 1.evenly spread titebond ll 2. I add a dab of superglue in between the joint area ( which replaces clamps ) 3. wait 10-15 minutes then i can work the joint That works surprisingly well considering the neck of the uke is white oak end grain to redwood end grain and it holds up fine to the string tension which is no easy task... I did add a screw but i'm 100% confident in the super glue/wood glue result. The superglue is amazing because it holds the joint together (saving a ton of time and I believe ) and it works well mechanically if used correctly.
  8. I have been playing bass for awhile and recently I wanted to make a ukulele as a challenge... after 4 days of work I finally finished her. I was never good with poly or varnish, so I used some danish oil (3-4) coats so far and was planning on applying some paste wax. I used some redwood with very tight grain and it is sucking up the oil... I applied a ton but it keeps absorbing it and looks dry after a few hours, the maple on top looks fine but I don't know where to go from here. the inside of the uke only has one coat inside and i don't know if the wax will ruin that because the outside will be coated and the inside will be un waxed. So all I'm asking is if the wax will hurt it and how do i apply the wax so it'll be durable enough for an instrument (I cant use varnish or poly anyway because it'll gunk up the fret board) Thanks, Maxim
  9. I'm routing my smaller dust collector (3/4 hp, 850ish CFM) into my shop from an extension I built. I will be putting a y fitting (4" of course) into the wall of my shop so one line can go to the tablesaw and the other a loose hose. For the loose hose I was thinking about making it smaller, I know the CFM will be lower if I used a 2" or 3" hose but the velocity will be higher... Is it even worth it to downgrade hose size for velocity, I want something with alot of suction so I can use it on my drill press and mitersaw. Or should I stick with the 4"? - thanks p.s, the attached photo is the extension I built for my dust collector and compressor
  10. I noticed that, but it works so what am I to say.
  11. Last Saturday was a woodworkers dream, my grandpa passed down his woodworking tools to me because he no longer found a use for them aside from retro furniture. All Rockwell Delta tools, borderline industrial but I cant use them in my shop because oh the size of the machines, I will make an exception for this Powermatic 100-12 but there were 3 problems.... 1. it was too heavy to move around my small shop, which I fixed by welding a heavy duty stand. 2. the motor was 40+ years old and needs alot of work which I am currently working on, and 3. it hasn't been ran since the 90's and I am paranoid about breaking this amazing tool. So I was wondering if anyone had any ideas on how to bring this to its formal glory.
  12. Maybe plywood with spray foam core to keep it from sounding hollow?
  13. Thanks for the input everybody, I guess I have to go with the majority decision cut and re glue. This time I'm going with a different glue and different boards on the side because those seem to have the biggest impact. Thank you -Maxim
  14. Bought it for the project, Its a head scratcher