dvanvleet

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About dvanvleet

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    Apprentice Poster

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  • Website URL
    www.VanVleetWoodworking.com/blog
  • Twitter
    https://twitter.com/dvanwoodworking

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Atlanta
  • Woodworking Interests
    Design and build handcrafted fine furniture
  1. Ok, so to answer a few thoughts. First, the glue lines are tight and invisible; no gaps at all. Some of the glue joints were even spring joints. Second, the pieces were often left to dry for 24hrs or longer in a climate controlled environment; plenty of time to dry. What is strange is this only happens after the oil finish has been applied and allowed to dry/cure for several days. It is sort of like the oil, as it cures, is micro-shrinking the wood fibers and the glue line is left slightly raised.
  2. Ok, I keep having some kind of an issue with glue lines; this may be a bit long, but I'm going to try and cover all the details. Here's the summary. I have noticed that after I glue, say a table top, I let it dry overnight. Then I typically sand from 100 grit through 220 so the top is super smooth. I use a raking light to ensure all glue is off the surface. I then use either OSMO or tung oil as a finish; usually two coats. What I have been noticing is, a week or so after the piece has been sanded, finished and dried, I can feel a micro line protruding on the glue seam; you can catch it with your finger nail. Some important notes: the wood is dry, 10% or less wood species doesn't seem to matter Using Titebond 2 Doesn't matter if I raise/wet the grain or not Shop is environmentally controlled; both temp and humidity So what in the heck is going on here? It is very frustrating because everything is super smooth right after I finish it, but a few days later, the line appears and you can definitely feel it. Thoughts?
  3. I used legs from TableLegs.com actually. Cheating, I know, but they make a really sturdy system that uses straight legs attached to an angles bracket that is mounted to the bottom.
  4. I have this separator and have been very happy with it. I have it connected to a 2hp Kufo Seco collector. there is a video review where a guy says it doesn’t work well, maybe the video posted above, but if you watch closely, he has it assembled wrong. I commented as such in his video comments, but he was having none of it.
  5. Thank you everyone. I didn’t like MCM until I started building it for my clients and now I actually like it. I think I saw too much “DIY” that was built like crap and with bad design. When done right, not that I am doing it right, I think it looks good and is actually a challenge to build.
  6. I built these matching bedside tables for a client a while back. She was upgrading from some Ikea tables to "adult tables". These are solid maple with a continuous grain pattern around the case. They are about 25" tall and the case is about 18" square. The drawer is a full extension drawer and the drawer front is figured/tiger maple. Finished with a natural oil and buffed out with wax. I have more details of the build on my blog, but these are a few shots of the finished pieces. I'm about to begin making a matching shelf unit now too.
  7. It's a Lost Art Press book: https://lostartpress.com/products/by-hand-eye-1
  8. So, I've had the HF DC for like 15 years and mine has gone through several "modifications", but I can tell you the three best things I did were to 1) add a pleated filter, which you did 2) Add a Super Dest Deputy 3) Swap out the impeller. Rikon makes a 12" impeller that is a direct replacement. When I did this, I also cut my inlet hole bigger, to 6" (so I guess that's 4 things). It is a totally different machine now. I run it to my SupMax 19/38 drum sander, 15" planer and 12" joiner and leave all the blast gates open.
  9. I've been reading through "By Hand and Eye" and I am curious as to how many of you actually design using proportions?
  10. Walnut and maple. I also do a lot with walnut and ambrosia maple. https://www.vanvleetwoodworking.com/gallery
  11. I just read "The Cabinet Maker's Notebook" cover to cover in a couple of days and well, I'm going to have to read it again with a highlighter or a notepad. So many great nuggets of, not only woodworking, but running a business and working with clients. It's funny because it is a bit of a retrospective book, of some of his times before he was so famous. It's important because he was telling customers "no" before he could really afford to because he believed in his own work. Such a valuable lesson to be reminded of over and over.
  12. I too started with the Shaker style, for the same reasons you mentioned, clean lines, fairly easy to build, etc. I do 99.9% custom work now for clients and had some requests for MCM and I have to say, the more I built it, the more I liked it. I've done a handful of pieces, some with more Danish influence, and I can see the appeal to it. I still like to do, what I call, "Modern Shaker" which is mostly Shaker, but with a twist. Such as combining different woods, maybe adding some curves to the legs (instead of tapers) or subtle curves to the aprons on tables. Still clean lines, but more subtle details that you have to really look at to notice sometimes.
  13. Oh man! I have one in the box (closed stand) waiting for me in the shop to assemble. I can't wait to fire it up!