Martin-IT

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About Martin-IT

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture

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  1. I am a cross-border person, living 5 miles from the border, 1 hour south of Montreal. In economy sometimes, they use the local price of the big mac as a standard products vs what people are willing to pay for it. You can find the price of a car online, if you consider the exchange, in many cases you can have good saving buying across the border, especially with the latest drop in price. Some manufacturer ban the dealer from selling a car for export, others dont. A few years ago, when the canadian $ was at par or vice-versa, people will do the cross-border shopping for cars. I bought a Toyota last summer, it was a few 1000s cheaper in canada, and now with the exchange it will be even more of a saving. Except, Toyota is a manufacturer that do not let dealer sell for export and having any warranty works is not that easy. Also, Canada may or may not have duty on some product/country of origin or the US. Since I am so close to both market, I do compare. Plus they did not charge any sales tax. <- export good are not taxed. Canada and all its province as a VAT, like europe.
  2. Martin-IT

    12/4 lumber

    I have always seem at least 12/4 in the rough, never under.
  3. I have dry cookies without major cracks/slice. You must slow down the drying process as much as you can. I double wrap them in craft paper for a year and used anchor seal on it, and left them in an unheated garage. After a year, I used a router to plan them with a sleight and on the under side, I made cut going toward the center of the cookie, without reaching the outer edge/center 1 inch or so deep. It has spent 3 winter in a heated home, with no cracking. I did try to use anchor seal, or soaking them in antifreeze, without wrapping them in craft paper and they did crack. Also these were cut in the spring, with the hot summer in the short term, while they other were cut in the Fall, with a very slow drying winter. Where are you located ? I could be interested by them.
  4. Can you get stair's step for the board ? it will be more expansive than doing it yourself, but the big box store do sell jointed boards, to make bookshelves.
  5. Question: is the top veneer on plywood ? How to keep the circle going around from cracking with expansion/contraction ?
  6. take a look at this video, something similar to want you want to do:
  7. So the Ads from Amazon on this page, is showing me suspenders and Bow Tie ! I used to cut the space for the bow tie using a 2hp router and I always felt the router was controlling the cut more than me, it will bite into the wood and just keep on cutting. The 1st time I did it with a palm router, I never look back. I could never find a reference on how thick the bow tie should be vs the piece they will be inserted into. I always go for 1/2 to 3/4 of the thickness. Most of the time, with their irregular shape, they are used as serving/charcuterie board. I do not like either anything with gap(which you most likely will have with bow tie), when it is used as cutting board.
  8. Do you have an example/online reference of G&G rounding the inside corner ? I would like to see it, as I wonder if it would give it a rustic look.
  9. You see many woodworker finishing many parts of a project, and many will say it is because it is easier to finish prior to assembly. In some case, it is like painting the inside of a closet, whatever way you do it, it seems you will always make contact with a finished surface. What about to deal with unfinished wood showing mid-winter ? I made a table with a breadboard, now in January the top has shrunk 1/16 on each side of the breadboard, exposing the unfinished inside of the mortise. Also, the corner of the mortise on the breadboard is a nicking hazard. Knowing now, I would have made the breadboard slightly shorter than the table width... Any rule on finishing to deal with wood movement ? Not cutting part to match the size of each other ?
  10. I had success drying cookies wrapped in a paper bag (must be thick to slow down the moisture). I put in a damp paper towel to put in humidity in it and left it in a unheated room for a year(like woodturner do). The issue with cookie, it is all endgrain, so moisture wants to leave it too fast. I did experiment using end grain sealer, without wrapping it in paper, with limited success. One product Pentacryl is supposed to be really good, but the instruction is to soak the piece in it. The cost was prohibitive for me (this is not a commercial endeavor). After a year in the paper bag, I took the piece out and cut concentric cut on the underside prior to finish it. The piece has gone thru multiple winters inside, without cracking.
  11. From Titebond website: http://www.titebond.com/resources/use/glues Frequently Asked Questions Can surfaces that have been painted or stained be bonded using Titebond Wood Glues? Most of our glues are designed to bond bare wood. Painting or staining a wood blocks the pores, keeping the glue from penetrating into the wood. The Titebond Polyurethane Glue may work for gluing together painted or stained surfaces, but it is necessary to remember that the overall bond will only be as strong as the bond between the paint and the wood. We recommend that all substrates be clean of any type of paint, stain, or sealer.
  12. I used to use something similar to this: Anti-Fog Dust Masks (https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/apparel-and-safety-gear/respirators-and-dust-masks/41726-anti-fog-dust-masks), and the mask was too rigid to have a good fit for me. I switched to Elipse Low-Profile Dust Respirator (https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/apparel-and-safety-gear/respirators-and-dust-masks/74167-elipse-low-profile-dust-respirator) and I have been happy with them. Not much fogging of my glasses with them and dust seem to be kept away. I like this video: I have no experience with the beard issue(6:50 in the videos for bearded mask). I only used them for dust, I do not used lacquer, oil based, ... except in the Summer, outside. And if you want to have your air dust filter be automatic:
  13. The commissioner is my wife (the easiest customer to make happy) ! we had to rent an apartment for a year while she completes her clinical work for her degree,. It is 4 hours away from our house. I do not do woodworking for living, just for fun during the Fall/Spring (working out of a garage in the north east->winter too cold and summer too hot).The managing company loaned me a stain pen, from the cabinet company. It is a temporarily setup, we always planned to give the furniture away once we were done, since we have no place to use it in our house. Renting the furniture was 150$/month (with no mattress) and a moving truck 200-300$. With this in mind, we bought a few pieces locally, and for the rest I brought them down in my small suv on my weekend trips.
  14. The piece is mostly soft maple, with some cherry. Being stain, there is not difference in the final color. The apartment complex is only a year old, I stopped at the management office to get the cabinet manufacturer and the finish. Hopefully, I may get a sample from them. The piece is in a bathroom, with no window, not much UV getting to it. It is a modified version of a product at Pottery Barn (Benchwright Ladder Floor Storage),
  15. Working primarily from a picture, I tried to match the color of a project, with the existing cabinet in an apartment. Based on a picture, an oil-based stain seem to be the best. Being in winter, and having to finish the piece in the basement, I did not want to take a chance with the vapor, and I used a water based finish which did not seem as good as the oil-based (not as many color in the water based than the oil based). The resulting color is 'chocolate', while the cabinet have more of a brown-black finish. I used a water based stain, with 2 coats of water based poly on top. I have to drive 4 hours to get to where it is being used, making difficult the color match process (and I cannot take a door off the cabinet, being a rental apartment). How can I change the color, without starting from scratch aka, removing all the finishes. 1-Try to put tint (I have some which is water soluble) in the clear finish and recoat it (I have a few transtint color)? 2-I have never done glazing, could it be a potential over the clear finish ? 3-Sand some spot to expose the wood, and used a darker stain (or will this produce a zebra look) ? 4-Suggestion ? My skill to do join over the years has improved, but not my finishing skill. I do one or 2 pieces a year, with many joints each(practices...), but only one finish per project!