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About Martin-IT

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  1. I was watching a video of a crafter got sick because of inhaling epoxy fume, and there it is: At room temperature, epoxy vapors are unlikely to be highly concentrated. However, if you are already sensitized to epoxy, exposure to low concentrations of epoxy vapors can trigger an allergic reaction. At warmer temperatures and in unventilated spaces, the epoxy vapor levels increase. Never breathe the sanding dust of partially cured epoxy. Epoxy chemicals remain reactive until they have cured. Serious health problems can result from sanding epoxy before it is fully cured. When you inhale these dust particles, they become trapped in the mucous lining of your respiratory system. The reactive material can cause severe respiratory irritation and/or respiratory allergies. I have never seen anyone on youtube wearing a respirator. Just the small amount that I have mixed (one pump shot of system west), I could smell fume.... I cannot imagine the fume when they are mixing 5 gallons bucket.
  2. A professional woodworker who was making drawer using tiger maple used to be criticized for using such expensive wood for them. His point of view was, it may cost 2X the price for the lumber but I managed to get 5X my highly rate because it looks more impressive. My personal issue with the live edge & epoxy river table, is the cost of epoxy. At 100$ / gallon, some of these tables are 100s of $ for epoxy (and most videos on youtube are sponsored by .....), But, they are using most of the time boards that would end up on the firewood pile... in some way it is a good used of a natural resource and creating employment for the resin maker. Going where the market is going, is a sure way to survive. As they teach in business school, you will not find that many saddle/buggy manufacturer anymore, there are some. One is a few hours away (in canada), many of the buggies used for military funeral in the us are theirs. Is there a market for them, yes, but very limited. Locally they interview an auctioneer about what is selling or not(city of 2M+), and most estate furniture do not sell anymore. Their size is an issue. Some condos now are less than 800 sq/ft (but still 300k$ and up), that fancy federal buffer will not make it. After being a weekend woodworker, I have learned to appreciate the work people put in their craft. Doing it for fun, I would not put 100s of resin in a table, but I understand some people may like it. It fits most likely in their overall decor. We personally had to furnish an apartment for a year, 4 hours away, while keeping our house. The plan, buy as little furniture as possible for the apartment, and at the same time, do not spend 100s in vehicle rental to move furniture away and back in a year. We bought cheaply made dresser, which retail for 300$ a piece,but were 2nd for 75$. Our theory, people are not buying heirloom furniture anymore, they want to replace them every few years, to stay with the latest trend (I called this the HGTV effect). Some of these dressers, were particle board cover-up with 'wall paper' for their finished look. The WW for mere moral: posted a video this weekend about what people are looking for in youtube vs what he is doing now. What he was interesting in doing vs what he needed to do on youtube to make a living (this video is being sponsored by XYZ...). This may interest you ... rustic furniture vs 'fine' woodworking vs what you want to do vs what you can do to $$$
  3. At night/evening: No power tool, except for sanding. To limit the risk if you are tired, of physical injury. Looking for stock only, no cutting or jointing/planning. Marking where the cut will be. Do not do repetitive tasks. Only one tank of gas in the chain saw, once it is empty, done for the day. To limit the risk of repetition/not paying attention.
  4. Hi, I did a 2 vertical drawers furniture with no separator between the 2 drawers. I used dovetail runners for the drawer. Normally, I set a lever in the back of the drawer, which catch on the cross member of the case in the front. You can reach and flip it down to take the drawer out. This would work on the top drawer, there is a cross piece in the case above it. The bottom piece does not have a cross piece above it, it is the top drawer directly above it. There is a cross piece below it, but the drawer's bottom is only 1/6 above it, preventing someone from reaching it. Both sides are 1/4 inches plywood, with a case around it and the legs as vertical frame. Again, the case's part are below where I could locate a stop for the upper part of the bottom drawer. Any suggestion ? How do you stop from being open too far ?
  5. what i did: -send the pieces with 400 grit -clean it up, using plenty of denatured alcohol -wait for it to dry -2 more coats of fresh dewaxed shellac -sanding after with 400 grit -recoats with 2 coats of varathane floor finish. I used in the past the old formula of the same finish. The new formula is almost as thick as oil finish and does cover in only 2-3 coats vs 4-6 coats with the previous formula. I tested the old formula against alcohol, water, acetone and it did not affect the finish (old urban legend regarding water based finish that they did not resist). I did not do the same chemical test with the new formula. At this point, where I could sand well the plywood, the refinished plywood is not having the fish scale. My theory: the old dewaxed shellac is either past its shelf life, or I may have been contaminated last time I used it with something.
  6. The shellac on the plywood was applied a few weeks back. It is at least a year old, and may be it is past its usable time. So, trying a coat of the newer shellac on top ? at this point it cannot make it worse.I will try on the smallest section tonight and see. Even the top coat, is a few days old. Either there was some finish on the plywood ? I bought it from the supplier a few years back. I just lightly sand it, as I got burned in the past going thru the veneer.
  7. Hi, using dewaxed shellac with a few coats of poly-urethane has been my goto solution to finish cherry for a few years. I am finishing a piece which had 2 sides with 1/4" cherry plywood. For once, I thought of finishing the plywood prior to set it in the piece, with the 2 coats of shellac, planning to put the poly once assembled. Now, all the pieces has had 2 coats of dewaxed shellac, every is finishing normally, except the 3 pieces of plywood. The poly is cracking like 'milk-paint' does, but only on the plywood. I may have used an older can of dewaxed shellac for the plywood vs the rest of the piece, but I am not sure. I have sanded it, clean it with denatured alcool, recoat it, and the same thing happen again. So, do I sand it, put a coat of the fresh shellac on (will it stick if some poly is left ?) and try putting poly on again ? I once did the common mistake of sanding thru the veneer, so I am trying to stay away of resanding the plywood...and it is now in the piece of furniture. Any advice ? The good news, the top of the pieces is not having this reaction, not being made of plywood.
  8. Hi, while cutting a piece of cherry 3/8" thick, the saw hesitated and then starting loosing teeth aka flying off. Now, the blade has lost more than 1/2 of its teeth. I bought it a few years back at woodcraft and I have always been careful with it. I have used it may be 20 times max. The teeth were razor sharp, and also very thin. Is it something that simply happens with them ? Another question, Woodcraft is stating it has a replaceable blade, but I cannot find it on their website. Leevalley has some Dozuki and blades (and free shipping at the moment). Between brand,is there a chance I could buy another brand of the blade and it would fit on the handle ? There is a 20$ price difference between the full saw and just the blade, I just hate to throw away a handle that still looks like new. mratin
  9. I used 5/4 cherry, which gave me an almost full inch for the top. If you look at the swing out leg, it opens at 45 degree to the center piece, it has a bottom stretcher. If you seat on the left side of the table, the leg will not be much in your way, if you seat on the right side, the bottom stretcher will be on you way.. I could: -make the swing out leg shorter, 2/3 of the length. In their design, the leg swings out to be only an 1 inch or 2 from the end of the extension. Instead, the leg itself will be 2/3 the width of the extension, which will allowed me to move it inward to attach it to the center piece. This will move it out of the way. -How to prevent the leg from being kicked-out of location when extended ? -Can I go without the bottom stretcher ? using a cross piece between the leg and the top ? I could make the top stretcher for the leg out of 5/4 cherry, and have a cross piece going from the leg to the top stretcher ?
  10. Hi, we like the design of this table: Its small footprint with both side down is very useful for a small apartment. Its normal configuration will most likely be only one side up, enough for 2 peoples. The swing out leg is good, but it does not seem to provide a secure setup. Suggestions on how to improve the swing out leg design ? I am making it with cherry. I have the top almost done (I went with the board going with the length, instead of the width). I am using 4" legs, which gives more room to improve on the swing out legs. Thank you.
  11. Instead of taking it to a bodyshop, you take it to a woodshop. You can pimp it up with inlay of you choice ! The make also bicycle frame with bamboo, and they state it absorbs the vibration from the road better than steel/titatium/carbone:
  12. I'm not sure if the price is different depending of the wood !!
  13. It looks to me, like the outer circle is 'fixed', with the inner blank floating with a miter into the outer edge. The gap will shrink and expand with the seasonal change (humid summer vs dry heater winter) between the outer rink and the inner blank. If you do attempt it, finish all the pieces before assembly. I made raised panel doors that I finish after assembly, in the winter I see a streak of unfinished wood with an ridge of finish, that disappear in the summer. Using plywood & veneer with the inner part will help stabilize it. Good luck and post pictures of the projects.
  14. I used BLO on chainsaw carving; 2 coats diluted by 50%, then 2 more coats full strenth. Then, multiple coats of spar varnish. BLO helped to slow down the drying process of the chainsaw carving. But it starts to crack/peel after a few years. I do not think just BLO will be a good idea, it does not protect that well against the elements. The same top cover that failed last year and I just refinished, the base is failing this year. The base, which is 2 flared easter white cedar trunk, is losing its finish. I peeled 2 inches wide, 2' long pieces of the finish. The top was penofin (horizontal), the base was spar varnish by benjamin moore (vertical). I feel the pricier product, lasted as long as a cheaper product (I am giving it credit for being horizontal).
  15. I just tried last weekend ilva 3 in 1 on a piece of maple. It does not produce a coat like others, but it is a very clear finish. It was recommended by a friend of mine, chemical engineer. My friend comments about other products I have used before, 20 years old technology. I was tired of the striping and refinishing of the other product I have used before.