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About Martin-IT

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  1. Hi, a local sawmill got stucked with an order for air dried cherry that the client pulled out. I took a look, some clear board, some with a few knots, all board are 4/4. What would you pay for it per bf ? The local hardwood dealer, sell 4/4 Cherry common for 3.5$. Martin
  2. For the pressure, I will need to check it. I believe it is the default setup for the pressure (pancake compressor). Oil it ? It was its first use yesterday in 5-6 years. I do not remember where it was last oiled, it was my father in-law. I will try oiling it and see if it improves my naileage between jams. Martin
  3. Hi, I do not use my brad nailer that often, but for outdoor project while the glue dries is a easier and faster way than clamping the pieces together. My frustration is, that about every 15-20 brads, it gets jammed. I undo the nailer, remove the twisted brad and starts again. I did not invest in a good brad nailer, it is just a HF and I believe also the brads came from there, over 10 years ago. Why does it jam ? -1 : it is a HF, what do you expect ? -2: some brad are made of cheaper alloys than other, do not buy brads from HF ? -3:what do you use for brad nailer ? experience with it jamming ? -4:similar experience with getting HF's brads ? The brads are 1.25" or 1.5" long. Martin
  4. You have quite a MacGyver wise. Are these hydraulic lifts ? Your bench looks like mine, without the gardening tools left on it. The main drawback of such a bench, is the lack of clamping on it. My top is just a single sheet of plywood, it is not strong enough to put holddown thru it.
  5. If you have a piece 6" x 8': - that will be cut at 2.5" x 4', cut it first to a rough dimension. As ripping it in half on the length, may remove some of the twist/cup, then ripping it in half. If you perfectly join/plane the 6" x 8' piece first, you would most likely have more lost due to making flat on the total width and total length 1st. -If you want a 2.5" x 8', rip it 1st using a bandsaw (not a tablesaw, it may not be flat, increasing the chance of problem while ripping it).- Same logic if you want a 6" x 4', you will cut it in half 1st (not using the tablesaw, as it is not flat yet). To roughing cut the pieces before they are flat, do not use the tablesaw.
  6. What was the last grit you use for sanding ? If you sand it to a very high grid you may 'close' the wood pore. Soft woods such as pine and alder: start with #120 and finish with no finer than #220 (for water base stains) and 180 grit for oil base stains.
  7. Hi, I finished an outdoor product with Epifanes and within a year of two, it started to flake and I had to strip and sand the old finish. A friend of mine(chemical engineer) who is in the coating business recommended the Ilva product line has being the best for outdoor clear finishes. I have already bought more Epifanes, and the comment on Epifanes, it is 20+ years old technology vs the latest (one year vs 5+ years outside). Ilva is a competitor to them.
  8. has excellent plan, I build my first piece using their plan. They are very detailed and also, includes extra info about technique specific for the project. If you do not want to subscribe, especially if you are looking for a specific project, they do sell them individually.
  9. The host has also a youtube channel: and he does live session on a particular subject. He did one on veneering ( ) which I found to be an excellent introduction and made it want to try it. He is very enthusiastic and he does mentioned that he is using a tool xy, and that it was given to him, which is a change from all the youtuber with their bright colored square.ruler showing up on all of the channel lately.
  10. I had limited success after soaking kiln dried lumber for 24 hours in water, prior to steam it. I could not find air dried walnut in my area. martin
  11. a short series of video about dust control:
  12. Can you fun-lattened it to prevent water from staying on it ? I have used australian timber oil finish (the version with the plain cover, not the blue cover, which is not as good) on outdoor project (mostly teak or lyptus). You need to redo it 1 or 2 a season, but it is a lot easier than a film finish, which must be totally removed. All you do, is hose up the old finish to clean the surface, wait for it to dry, then re-apply the oil finish with a rag. It is not shiny like a film finish, but a lot easier to refinish (and a lot less costly than penofin). Martin
  13. Hi, I am looking to do a giant Jenga game. The block must slide easily, whether humidity or temperature is high. In my past project, I did not have to worry about finished parts having to slide on each other. Finishing suggestion ? martin
  14. My question: are you sure the wood is in a stable condition, in term of humidity ? If not, you will work to make it flat, to have it cup or twist again.
  15. I started by following plan from Woodsmith magazine. Unlike other publication, they have more of a step by step approach that was helpful to me. Make sure as you go along with the plan, to adjust the plan based on the actual measurement of your piece that you have already cut. for the mechanical based, Ikea sell desk (sit/stand) with either a mechanical lift or an electric lift (I bought a 12 of them for my office). they sell just the frame (