Wood Basher

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About Wood Basher

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  1. I may be misinterpretting what you mean here. I envision a stopped sliding dovetail where the entry is from the rear and the joint stops short of the front. But if that is true, why would you add trim to disguise the open end when the open end is at the back, up against the wall?
  2. Sliding dovetail? Stopped (at the front) and possibly tapered. From the front it would appear to be as housed as M&T but not from the rear where the vertical piece would be inserted into the horizontal.
  3. Just to be pedantic, you don't need through tenons to use wedges either. Click here for an example on youtube. I have successfully done joints this way before without problems.
  4. I would also take that approach but I would use a hand saw, not a powered device. I prefer hand tools anyway, but in this case I think it would be easier and safer than a powered approach. Plus as a beginner twolip may not have a circular saw or table saw. I would not attempt to fix all the gaps at once in case the whole thing moved. Do the worst gap as a test and see how it looks. Then decide whether to do all joints, just the gappy joints, or just the worst gaps. Also consider using a contrasting color to fill the gaps - it might look good.
  5. On a narrower joint I would use a coping saw but 6 inches is a bit too much for that. You have saw kerfs at the sides. I suggest you put several more kerfs, parallel to these, across the waste area. It will then be much easier to remove the remaining waste with chisels.
  6. I work totally by hand also. I don't cut the tenon first when I cut a "normal" M&T, such as with a leg and rail, but I do for the type of joint you are doing. I think that is purely for ease of marking out. As always, accurate marking out is crucial and I find doing the tenon first and marking from it much easier than accurately transferring sizes from the middle of a panel to the end of a board.
  7. I am definitely mad then. I much prefer to cut the tenons first. I find it a lot easier to mark the mortices from the tenons than vice-versa, especially if the mortice board is thick in comparison to the size of the tenon so that the mortice is a deep hole.
  8. It's an optical illusion. You have to stare at it for a few minutes before you see it.
  9. At the risk of appearing pedantic and petty, can I ask how you open the doors? I don't see any handles.
  10. Derek, that is a good & useful summary. Can you comment on if these saws differ regarding maintenance? With their different tooth counts, rake angles etc are they similar when it comes to sharpening? I do sharpen my saws but am far from expert at that so a saw that was great from the manufacturer might be poor after I have used it for a while.
  11. I did something similar to this but I put a series of holes in the outer boxing at 4 cm spacing and a series of holes in the inner leg at 6cm spacing. I turned some pegs to go in the holes. By changing which hole I inserted the pegs into I could get an adjustment of 2 cm. In retrospect I should have put the wider spacing on the outer boxing rather than on the inner leg. I think it would look better. Another idea I toyed around with was a sort of scissor jack arrangement which would provide infinite adjustment but decided it was a lot more work and I wasn't 100% confident I could pull
  12. My office desk is 125" long x 50" wide. The top is made of 2 pieces of kitchen counter top back to back and dowelled together, so each piece is the full 125" length. The material is some kind of glorified chipboard about 1" thick with a laminate cover on top. Surprisingly heavy. It is supported on tubular steel legs but there are no legs along the front edge where I sit. There are 6 legs along the back edge, 6 along the joint (straddling & supporting both pieces of the top) and a leg near each corner on the front edge. There is no rail under the front edge. In the middle of the length, goi
  13. I saw this used once, and once only, on site back in the 1970s in the attic of an old manor house. All the rafters and joists had moved over the centuries since it was built, so there were no real reference surfaces or edges. The chippy who used it cut the whole thing with his axe from a piece of scrap, very quickly. After it had served its purpose it was discarded, but I remember being impressed with how well it worked. I thought at the time that "I must remember that" but I have never had occasion to use the technique myself. It is filed away at the back of my brain under "could be useful so
  14. Sounds similar to material I have obtained from this place which is close to me. I got it for decking because I am far too lazy to treat a deck every year. With this stuff you can just leave it and it will supposedly last. Our deck has lasted about 12 years so far with no real problems. The only issue is the color, which we were warned about in advance. If you want it to keep its color outside you do have to treat it before the color fades and maintain the treatment. I didn't do that and the deck has gone from a nice brown to a gray color. I am not bothered by that but it wouldn't suit everyon