Wood Basher

Members
  • Content Count

    90
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

20 Neutral

About Wood Basher

  • Rank
    Apprentice Poster

Profile Information

  • Woodworking Interests
    Hand tools

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Wood Basher

    Help with kitchen peninsula table top

    There are cross-rails across the top of the cabinets underneath the worktop. There are screws up through these rails into the under side of the worktop. I don't think this is a good approach though as it does not allow enough wiggle room to account for wood movement in the worktop. The holes in the rails should really be slots, with the screws tight enough to hold the worktop in position but not tight enough to prevent seasonal movement.
  2. Wood Basher

    Help with kitchen peninsula table top

    I don't think you need the plywood to strengthen the overhang. I also have a short overhang for similar reasons as you. The company who supplied my top have much longer overhangs in their showrooms; by memory 3 ft or more. OK, they use thicker tops than you intend to do but you will have a shorter overhang and supporting corbels so I wouldn't worry.
  3. Wood Basher

    Help with kitchen peninsula table top

    The top of my kitchen peninsular is similar. It is made of 30mm timber doubled up to look like 60mm. It is constructed with a double layer around the edges as you describe, but with no plywood. Where you suggest having plywood I have a void. So long as the double-thickness around the edge is wide enough to span the overhang and reach the sides of the unit for support, at least on two opposite sides, that is OK. My worktop was bought in, rather than being something I made myself. The supplier was Kvik so you may find details on their web site. The double thickness covers 3 sides only; the end that goes against the wall is never seen and is single thickness only. The opposite end, parallel to the wall and in the middle of the room, has an overhang so you can sit at it with your knees underneath it. The double thickness here does not reach the supporting unit so the worktop is only supported along the 2 edges perpendicular to the wall. That works OK and nobody sees it unless they crawl on hands and knees.
  4. Wood Basher

    steam resistant finishes...???

    I am no more an expert than you are, but maybe you are over-thinking this. A couple of years ago I made a small set of shelves for the kitchen out of oak & pine with dovetails and dadoes. These are on a wall immediately above the area where the kettle sits. Multiple times per day we use the kettle and steam goes straight up onto these shelves. I expected there to be problems with warpage & cracking but there is no visible sign of any problem. I finished the shelves with some brushed-on shellac followed by bees wax, nothing fancy.
  5. Wood Basher

    Tolerance

    That is very different to my own approach. I use a knife mark for most things to do with hand-cut joinery no matter how I determine the cut position. For example, the cut line for a tenon shoulder is usually something I typically measure with a rule (if I don't already have another rail to match) and I always mark it with a knife. I find I get a cleaner and more accurate cut that way.
  6. Wood Basher

    TableTop Alignment

    I used snippets of kebab sticks on my last glue up. It worked OK.
  7. Wood Basher

    Making Repetitive Mortises

    Can I ask why? I understand why if you are using a domino but if you are not using a domino what advantage do loose tenons give?
  8. Wood Basher

    OTT - Precision Framing Square

    I have a cheap "square" that I came to realize isn't square. I replaced it with a cheap square that is square (as near as I can judge). I don't need, and would not willingly pay for, accuracy beyond what I can see with a visual check.
  9. Would shellac be a bad choice anyway for a wedding, where there is a fair chance that someone will spill alcohol at some point? I thought that would mess up the surface.
  10. Wood Basher

    Daughter's bookshelf with drawers

    Would you do it that way again? Would it be OK to just glue a short length at one end of the dovetail? Why is that? What problem do you think PVA would cause?
  11. Wood Basher

    Daughter's bookshelf with drawers

    Why do you prefer straight?
  12. Wood Basher

    China Cabinet

    Looks good. How did you fix the front frames in place?
  13. Wood Basher

    Tapered sliding dovetails

    Thanks for the tips guys. Some useful information there. Derek, that must be the most thorough answer to any forum post, ever. I have made a couple more test pieces. One was a disaster due to a stupid layout error, but the other was a big improvement. I am learning and I am close to trying it for real. Before that though my next task is to try a test on a wide board. Derek, your point about only needing a one-sided dovetail will require less work to cut the joint. Also I suspect it will be easier to ensure the joint ends up square. I will do that on my real work, but for my tests I am sticking to double-sided dovetails to become more familiar with cutting them.
  14. Wood Basher

    Fix for sticky LO, Turpentine, Wax finish???

    That cup is quite something. What would have caused that? If you make a replacement, how will you prevent the same thing happening to it?
  15. Wood Basher

    Tapered sliding dovetails

    On my current project I will need to do some tapered sliding dovetails, and I will do this with hand tools only. Not having cut this type of joint before I decided to test on some scrap. On my first attempt I cut the male part "freehand" and it came out so poorly that I just threw it on the wood burner without even trying to cut a matching female part. I decided I needed to create a saw guide so I made one by planing a 6:1 gradient on one edge of a piece of 2x4. I then cut my second attempt on some scrap, without making any effort to clean & square it up first. Here is how it turned out: First the thin end of the taper. Not perfect, but better than I expected. Now the thick end of the taper. Not so good. Finally, a view from the side. This shows that the joint is not seating as well as it should. I guess I could make it seat better by clearing out the floor of the housing better, but then wouldn't the male part slide though further than I want? So what can I learn from this, and what tips can anyone give to help me improve? OK, One thing I can learn is that the camera on my phone is crap, but other than that ... As a general rule, is it better to have a gradual or pronounced taper? I think in my test the taper is too pronounced. I think a very slight taper would work just as well and be less error-prone. I cut this joint with a saw, only using a chisel for clearing out the waste from the female part. Is this a good approach or should I use a chisel more? Are there any techniques to scale this up to wider stock (longer sliding dovetails)? In my real project I am working with panels 300 - 400mm wide. For my next test I will prepare the wood to be smooth, square and true rather than using something off the scrap pile with no preparation. Maybe this in itself will improve the result.