Wood Basher

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About Wood Basher

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  1. On a narrower joint I would use a coping saw but 6 inches is a bit too much for that. You have saw kerfs at the sides. I suggest you put several more kerfs, parallel to these, across the waste area. It will then be much easier to remove the remaining waste with chisels.
  2. I work totally by hand also. I don't cut the tenon first when I cut a "normal" M&T, such as with a leg and rail, but I do for the type of joint you are doing. I think that is purely for ease of marking out. As always, accurate marking out is crucial and I find doing the tenon first and marking from it much easier than accurately transferring sizes from the middle of a panel to the end of a board.
  3. I am definitely mad then. I much prefer to cut the tenons first. I find it a lot easier to mark the mortices from the tenons than vice-versa, especially if the mortice board is thick in comparison to the size of the tenon so that the mortice is a deep hole.
  4. It's an optical illusion. You have to stare at it for a few minutes before you see it.
  5. At the risk of appearing pedantic and petty, can I ask how you open the doors? I don't see any handles.
  6. Derek, that is a good & useful summary. Can you comment on if these saws differ regarding maintenance? With their different tooth counts, rake angles etc are they similar when it comes to sharpening? I do sharpen my saws but am far from expert at that so a saw that was great from the manufacturer might be poor after I have used it for a while.
  7. I did something similar to this but I put a series of holes in the outer boxing at 4 cm spacing and a series of holes in the inner leg at 6cm spacing. I turned some pegs to go in the holes. By changing which hole I inserted the pegs into I could get an adjustment of 2 cm. In retrospect I should have put the wider spacing on the outer boxing rather than on the inner leg. I think it would look better. Another idea I toyed around with was a sort of scissor jack arrangement which would provide infinite adjustment but decided it was a lot more work and I wasn't 100% confident I could pull
  8. My office desk is 125" long x 50" wide. The top is made of 2 pieces of kitchen counter top back to back and dowelled together, so each piece is the full 125" length. The material is some kind of glorified chipboard about 1" thick with a laminate cover on top. Surprisingly heavy. It is supported on tubular steel legs but there are no legs along the front edge where I sit. There are 6 legs along the back edge, 6 along the joint (straddling & supporting both pieces of the top) and a leg near each corner on the front edge. There is no rail under the front edge. In the middle of the length, goi
  9. I saw this used once, and once only, on site back in the 1970s in the attic of an old manor house. All the rafters and joists had moved over the centuries since it was built, so there were no real reference surfaces or edges. The chippy who used it cut the whole thing with his axe from a piece of scrap, very quickly. After it had served its purpose it was discarded, but I remember being impressed with how well it worked. I thought at the time that "I must remember that" but I have never had occasion to use the technique myself. It is filed away at the back of my brain under "could be useful so
  10. Sounds similar to material I have obtained from this place which is close to me. I got it for decking because I am far too lazy to treat a deck every year. With this stuff you can just leave it and it will supposedly last. Our deck has lasted about 12 years so far with no real problems. The only issue is the color, which we were warned about in advance. If you want it to keep its color outside you do have to treat it before the color fades and maintain the treatment. I didn't do that and the deck has gone from a nice brown to a gray color. I am not bothered by that but it wouldn't suit everyon
  11. I have a kitchen worktop 60mm thick made of 2 layers of 30mm timber. This is a bought-in item, not something I made myself. It is glued up like your option A. There have been no problems with it. If I were doing it myself though I would probably go for option B, for no very good reason.
  12. No. It is 9.5mm. If you are going to shift to metric, go all in.
  13. I made a very similar tool, using a scalpel blade. I made mine for use purely as a marking gauge rather than trying to cut the sides of a recess. With the blade barely protruding (like your photo) it works fine. If I have the blade extended much further the wedge doesn't hold it in place firmly enough and it gets pushed back into the tool. This is a pain because if I don't want to mark the full length/width of a board I would like the blade extended further so I can see where I am marking. So in short, yes I agree with you that a screw arrangement would be better than the wedge.
  14. I recently tapped some holes in wood using cheap metal taps for a couple of projects. I was pleasantly surprised how well it worked. In one project I tapped some soft pine and even that worked well. I doubt it would be a good option for very thin bolts or fine threads but for your application I think it would be fine.
  15. Can you write more about that? When you say you "sharpen them flat" do you mean the edge is at 90 degrees to the face, with no burr? When you say you use water stones that suggests to me that you sharpen the flat face rather than the thin edge. Does the edge not need to be sharpened also?