Wood Basher

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  1. Eventually the wheel would leave a "track mark" on the floor, working against the desire for a "secret" door. I think it would be better to diagonally brace the back of the door/bookcase, possibly with strong metalwork, to make it very rigid and prevent it drooping over time. A bookcase can be a lot of weight so strong bracing and substantial himges would be needed.
  2. Wood Basher

    Bending wood

    I have been reading up on this for a possible future project. Another way of saying that is that I have no real knowledge, so perhaps someone else can comment on this. My first reaction though, is that this is a bad (possibly dangerous) idea. I don't see why pressure would be needed at all, and 5 bar seems a lot of pressure. Even if nothing explodes, something could break or come loose and shoot high pressure steam right at you. Personally I would re-think that aspect of your design.
  3. I totally agree with this. I happen to like cutting dovetails but if I didn't there is no shortage of alternatives. Even dowel joints would probably hold OK. If the drawer sides are really thin you could cut sections from toothpicks or BBQ skewers to use as dowels and - if you used 3 or 4 of them - it would probably be OK. A jewellery box isn't a high-stress application.
  4. I have not seen the video so I don't know if there is something special about these joints, but I find regular half-blinds (such as on a typical drawer front) to be easier that through dovetails. With half-blinds there is only one face that shows. If the marking out is correct you can just concentrate on getting the show face correct and any gaps elsewhere are hidden within the joint. With through dovetails gaps in either of 2 show faces are visible for all time.
  5. I may be misinterpretting what you mean here. I envision a stopped sliding dovetail where the entry is from the rear and the joint stops short of the front. But if that is true, why would you add trim to disguise the open end when the open end is at the back, up against the wall?
  6. Sliding dovetail? Stopped (at the front) and possibly tapered. From the front it would appear to be as housed as M&T but not from the rear where the vertical piece would be inserted into the horizontal.
  7. Just to be pedantic, you don't need through tenons to use wedges either. Click here for an example on youtube. I have successfully done joints this way before without problems.
  8. I would also take that approach but I would use a hand saw, not a powered device. I prefer hand tools anyway, but in this case I think it would be easier and safer than a powered approach. Plus as a beginner twolip may not have a circular saw or table saw. I would not attempt to fix all the gaps at once in case the whole thing moved. Do the worst gap as a test and see how it looks. Then decide whether to do all joints, just the gappy joints, or just the worst gaps. Also consider using a contrasting color to fill the gaps - it might look good.
  9. On a narrower joint I would use a coping saw but 6 inches is a bit too much for that. You have saw kerfs at the sides. I suggest you put several more kerfs, parallel to these, across the waste area. It will then be much easier to remove the remaining waste with chisels.
  10. I work totally by hand also. I don't cut the tenon first when I cut a "normal" M&T, such as with a leg and rail, but I do for the type of joint you are doing. I think that is purely for ease of marking out. As always, accurate marking out is crucial and I find doing the tenon first and marking from it much easier than accurately transferring sizes from the middle of a panel to the end of a board.
  11. I am definitely mad then. I much prefer to cut the tenons first. I find it a lot easier to mark the mortices from the tenons than vice-versa, especially if the mortice board is thick in comparison to the size of the tenon so that the mortice is a deep hole.
  12. At the risk of appearing pedantic and petty, can I ask how you open the doors? I don't see any handles.
  13. Derek, that is a good & useful summary. Can you comment on if these saws differ regarding maintenance? With their different tooth counts, rake angles etc are they similar when it comes to sharpening? I do sharpen my saws but am far from expert at that so a saw that was great from the manufacturer might be poor after I have used it for a while.
  14. I did something similar to this but I put a series of holes in the outer boxing at 4 cm spacing and a series of holes in the inner leg at 6cm spacing. I turned some pegs to go in the holes. By changing which hole I inserted the pegs into I could get an adjustment of 2 cm. In retrospect I should have put the wider spacing on the outer boxing rather than on the inner leg. I think it would look better. Another idea I toyed around with was a sort of scissor jack arrangement which would provide infinite adjustment but decided it was a lot more work and I wasn't 100% confident I could pull it off.