Wood Basher

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Everything posted by Wood Basher

  1. Derek, that is a good & useful summary. Can you comment on if these saws differ regarding maintenance? With their different tooth counts, rake angles etc are they similar when it comes to sharpening? I do sharpen my saws but am far from expert at that so a saw that was great from the manufacturer might be poor after I have used it for a while.
  2. I did something similar to this but I put a series of holes in the outer boxing at 4 cm spacing and a series of holes in the inner leg at 6cm spacing. I turned some pegs to go in the holes. By changing which hole I inserted the pegs into I could get an adjustment of 2 cm. In retrospect I should have put the wider spacing on the outer boxing rather than on the inner leg. I think it would look better. Another idea I toyed around with was a sort of scissor jack arrangement which would provide infinite adjustment but decided it was a lot more work and I wasn't 100% confident I could pull it off.
  3. My office desk is 125" long x 50" wide. The top is made of 2 pieces of kitchen counter top back to back and dowelled together, so each piece is the full 125" length. The material is some kind of glorified chipboard about 1" thick with a laminate cover on top. Surprisingly heavy. It is supported on tubular steel legs but there are no legs along the front edge where I sit. There are 6 legs along the back edge, 6 along the joint (straddling & supporting both pieces of the top) and a leg near each corner on the front edge. There is no rail under the front edge. In the middle of the length, going from the back to 6" shy of the front edge, I have a 2"x2" rail screwed to the underside of the top. In terms of support this might be similar to you supporting your benchtop on the front & side walls only with no supports under the front edge. As an office desk supporting typical office loads it is fine. I normally have it loaded with lots of computers & other electronics and an embarrassing amount of general junk. I have no problems with its strength, even if I stand on it to change light bulbs. It is not sturdy enough for woodworking but for the type of work you describe it would be fine. Pushing down hard on the middle of the front edge I can deflect it by 1/4" or 3/8" but in normal use it doesn't noticeably flex. Your bench will be a bit longer than my desk but I think all I would do differently is add one or 2 extra front-back rails on the under side. I second the suggestion for a light color for the top. My woodworking workbench top is black because I re-purposed some used material so had no choice about color. It is about the worst color for a bench. I hate it.
  4. I saw this used once, and once only, on site back in the 1970s in the attic of an old manor house. All the rafters and joists had moved over the centuries since it was built, so there were no real reference surfaces or edges. The chippy who used it cut the whole thing with his axe from a piece of scrap, very quickly. After it had served its purpose it was discarded, but I remember being impressed with how well it worked. I thought at the time that "I must remember that" but I have never had occasion to use the technique myself. It is filed away at the back of my brain under "could be useful some day".
  5. Wood Basher

    Roasted Wood?

    Sounds similar to material I have obtained from this place which is close to me. I got it for decking because I am far too lazy to treat a deck every year. With this stuff you can just leave it and it will supposedly last. Our deck has lasted about 12 years so far with no real problems. The only issue is the color, which we were warned about in advance. If you want it to keep its color outside you do have to treat it before the color fades and maintain the treatment. I didn't do that and the deck has gone from a nice brown to a gray color. I am not bothered by that but it wouldn't suit everyone. The wood itself is a lot lighter than regular wood and apparently it loses structural strength (about 25% from memory) during the heat treatment.
  6. I have a kitchen worktop 60mm thick made of 2 layers of 30mm timber. This is a bought-in item, not something I made myself. It is glued up like your option A. There have been no problems with it. If I were doing it myself though I would probably go for option B, for no very good reason.
  7. No. It is 9.5mm. If you are going to shift to metric, go all in.
  8. I made a very similar tool, using a scalpel blade. I made mine for use purely as a marking gauge rather than trying to cut the sides of a recess. With the blade barely protruding (like your photo) it works fine. If I have the blade extended much further the wedge doesn't hold it in place firmly enough and it gets pushed back into the tool. This is a pain because if I don't want to mark the full length/width of a board I would like the blade extended further so I can see where I am marking. So in short, yes I agree with you that a screw arrangement would be better than the wedge.
  9. I recently tapped some holes in wood using cheap metal taps for a couple of projects. I was pleasantly surprised how well it worked. In one project I tapped some soft pine and even that worked well. I doubt it would be a good option for very thin bolts or fine threads but for your application I think it would be fine.
  10. Can you write more about that? When you say you "sharpen them flat" do you mean the edge is at 90 degrees to the face, with no burr? When you say you use water stones that suggests to me that you sharpen the flat face rather than the thin edge. Does the edge not need to be sharpened also?
  11. I had never heard the term "hall tree" before. Now I can rename a piece I recently built. I previously called mine "a sort of tall settle". A rose by any other name ... PS: Mine is made of pine and will be painted, just as soon as SWMBO decides on color. Yours has a lot more class.
  12. Saw and chisel. Same basic technique as cutting the pins on a half-blind dovetail.
  13. I agree with that. It would look odd otherwise and the double thickness would also add some strength if anyone leans (or climbs!) on the overhang. I don't believe that is a given. My peninsular has nothing extra. The worktop connects to the cabinets hear the edge where there is a double thickness of worktop. Inside of that double thickness there is simply a void. With a 3/4in thick worktop (rather than the 30mm I have) I might be tempted to put some cross-braces in to prevent sag, but I think filling the void with plywood is not necessary.
  14. There are cross-rails across the top of the cabinets underneath the worktop. There are screws up through these rails into the under side of the worktop. I don't think this is a good approach though as it does not allow enough wiggle room to account for wood movement in the worktop. The holes in the rails should really be slots, with the screws tight enough to hold the worktop in position but not tight enough to prevent seasonal movement.
  15. I don't think you need the plywood to strengthen the overhang. I also have a short overhang for similar reasons as you. The company who supplied my top have much longer overhangs in their showrooms; by memory 3 ft or more. OK, they use thicker tops than you intend to do but you will have a shorter overhang and supporting corbels so I wouldn't worry.
  16. The top of my kitchen peninsular is similar. It is made of 30mm timber doubled up to look like 60mm. It is constructed with a double layer around the edges as you describe, but with no plywood. Where you suggest having plywood I have a void. So long as the double-thickness around the edge is wide enough to span the overhang and reach the sides of the unit for support, at least on two opposite sides, that is OK. My worktop was bought in, rather than being something I made myself. The supplier was Kvik so you may find details on their web site. The double thickness covers 3 sides only; the end that goes against the wall is never seen and is single thickness only. The opposite end, parallel to the wall and in the middle of the room, has an overhang so you can sit at it with your knees underneath it. The double thickness here does not reach the supporting unit so the worktop is only supported along the 2 edges perpendicular to the wall. That works OK and nobody sees it unless they crawl on hands and knees.
  17. I am no more an expert than you are, but maybe you are over-thinking this. A couple of years ago I made a small set of shelves for the kitchen out of oak & pine with dovetails and dadoes. These are on a wall immediately above the area where the kettle sits. Multiple times per day we use the kettle and steam goes straight up onto these shelves. I expected there to be problems with warpage & cracking but there is no visible sign of any problem. I finished the shelves with some brushed-on shellac followed by bees wax, nothing fancy.
  18. That is very different to my own approach. I use a knife mark for most things to do with hand-cut joinery no matter how I determine the cut position. For example, the cut line for a tenon shoulder is usually something I typically measure with a rule (if I don't already have another rail to match) and I always mark it with a knife. I find I get a cleaner and more accurate cut that way.
  19. I used snippets of kebab sticks on my last glue up. It worked OK.
  20. Can I ask why? I understand why if you are using a domino but if you are not using a domino what advantage do loose tenons give?
  21. I have a cheap "square" that I came to realize isn't square. I replaced it with a cheap square that is square (as near as I can judge). I don't need, and would not willingly pay for, accuracy beyond what I can see with a visual check.
  22. Would shellac be a bad choice anyway for a wedding, where there is a fair chance that someone will spill alcohol at some point? I thought that would mess up the surface.
  23. Would you do it that way again? Would it be OK to just glue a short length at one end of the dovetail? Why is that? What problem do you think PVA would cause?
  24. Looks good. How did you fix the front frames in place?