Mike Vee

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About Mike Vee

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture and home improvements

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  1. Hi everyone! It took me a while, but I finally finished securing it. I took your suggestions and used a combination of a french cleat and brackets. the top part is used a metal french cleat (because it was 22 bucks and an easy way to get exact alignment) I ran into 1 minor issue and that was the fact that the wood piece of top has a 5 degree cant. Initially i thought to anneal the edges of the cleat and widen it by 5 degrees but i was worried it would mess w/ the integrity of it, so after chatting and bouncing ideas off a neighbor, i realized I could do a sort of overlay made of wood that has that 5 degree cant built into it so the clean will not have to deal with any structural damage. this was the finished overlay piece. Top View Side View to show the 5 degree cant I took a 2x3 stud, trim the edges and then combined them into a bigger piece to build the overlay that fits over the original wood piece and after I stained and sealed it with shellac, I mounted it. took some effort for find the right studs and secure it properly but it worked out. This is with the cleat installed and mounted to the original piece Then at the same time I wanted to make sure that whatever weight is put on it (ie a kid who decides they want to start mirror climbing....) it will hold, so I took a spare piece of wood from an older project and cut it down to 40" wide so it's hidden behind the mirror but if someone looks there, it won't look like scrap wood. I beveled the edges in case someone, somehow ends up hitting the edge by some crazy act of freak accidents. Here are the pics of the wood after I finished it. Installed it onto the wall (found 4 studs so i screwed x2 3.5" wood screws per stud) and mounted the brackets on it. Here's the piece installed and followed up by the bracket (which took a lot of finagling to make sure it fits in exactly This project took me about 6 days to complete (spending about 2-3hrs a day on average). The part that took the longest was the planning, then followed by the staining and sealing. the installation itself took about 2 hours. Here's the overall look of the mirror now that it's secured: Original pieces pre installation (with the overlay moved off to the side to show how it fits close up of the clean (you can see the x3 2.5" screws I drilled through the overlay to hold the original piece to the new piece) If you look all the way down, you can see all 3 points where it is secured to the wall. All in all, Thank you very much everyone for giving me all sorts of great ideas for me to formulate and put together!! My wife is very happy about this and I am happy this project is successful and should be inconspicuous!
  2. Yes, the mirror is indeed designed to sit on the floor. It looks like I wasn't too clear in my original post. I do want to leave it sitting on the floor. i just want to secure it in a way that it will not move at all. My biggest concern is that even though it is designed to sit on the floor, the bottom edge is not made to sit on a floor at all, which is why I am afraid of it eventually sliding. The other part that I wanted to do is to find a way to put some barrier between the frame and floor since it's a hard edge to the bottom and if i can atleast secure the mirror so it doesn't move, i can add felt pads or whatever to the bottom so that it won't damage the floors over the years.
  3. hahaha that is a $1k accident that would hurt me in the wallet.... and probably send me to sleep in the guest room for the rest of the year. (and well.... you don't want a pregnant woman to be angry.. they're terrifying) I think I might be able to figure out a french cleat for the top. I just need to figure out the angle and make sure it spans as many studs as I can possibly get. I've never done a french cleat before.. but I'm sure I can figure it out somehow (Youtube is a trusty partner in this hahah)
  4. The back of the mirror is almost completely flat. Taking a look through it makes me think that the wood around it is, as you see, a frame. the rest is like how picture frames are made: a thin wood board in the back where the glass is sandwiched inbetween. backing is secured by a whole host of small screws. I should probably mention this is the product: https://www.crateandbarrel.com/stilt-floor-mirror/s214982?st=stilt I'm assuming that I should be able to screw into the frame without fearing of damaging the glass. I did notice that the top has an additional bar of wood that is used to keep the top edge of the frame from touching the wall. I think I can use that as 1 of the mount points (like Brendon_t's suggestion on a french cleat) especially if i can adjust the bar to be at a slight angle. @Brendon_t I like the idea of the french cleat, but is there a way to install a french cleat at an angle? with a protrusion? since this type of mirror is supposedly the type that you're supposed to set it at a slight angle @Tom King I'm having a bit of trouble visualizing what you are saying. With an L bracket, how would it secure to the wall if one side is already secured to the frame? @Mick S ah that's a pretty cool idea. secure and inconspicuous. I have to consult w/ the wife as to how far out she wants it but I have a suspicion that she probably wants it 8" from the wall at the bottom.
  5. 02/08/19 Edit: I just finished mounting this mirror. I've made a post at the end with a full report of everything I did. - Thank you everyone for your wisdom in this again!! Hi everyone! My wife just bought a gigantic 8ft tall mirror..... that has no anchors whatsoever and with a baby coming to join the family soon, I really have a deep seated mistrust of the damn mirror even if it's 192lbs. Is there anything I can do/build that I can add to the frame to make sure it's stable (including adding those earthquake straps to the wall towards the top of the mirror? It's currently freestanding and I absolutely loathe the idea of a free standing giant wooden mirror. I've attached 2 photos for reference. one is of the bottom to show how it currently "stands" and the other is the general overview of it. Tell me what you think guys! I really don't know what the hell I can do to make sure it's secure and wont slip and still look clean and discrete! EDIT: I just want to clarify that I want this mirror to stay on the floor, but I want to make sure that it doesn't slide over the years and in case of any earthquakes we might experience. I do not plan to have it hanging off the wall at all, but would like a way to secure it to the wall but still be on the floor.
  6. Thanks! I finally finished the vertical garden last Saturday!!!! Here are the pics!!! from wood to garden! Now it's my wife's job to find the flowers and plant them. Then I'll have to figure out the drip system and how I will run the tubing.
  7. I looked it up and the suggested drill bit for a pilot hole would be 5/64 drill bit which isn't too bad. i might do a test drill on a spare piece of wood but i think it should be good. i've never heard of VIX Bits but they look pretty badass although i have no idea how it self centers.
  8. funn!!!!! 160 holes to pre-drill then drill..... all by saturday lol
  9. but don't i have to drill pilot holes in first so i dont' split the wood?
  10. Thanks guys! i ended up buying the same style as you suggested. just bought 175 of these screws... knowing i need to screw in 160 of them into 32 brackets (since they all have 5 holes each....) I am going to hate myself this week and i will submit pictures of my work later next week once my wife starts to load up the planters!
  11. hmm that looks great. too bad I can't find a rusty brown color. black might have to do Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  12. HI! I'm back after months of disappearing. Many months ago I was in the general planning stages of building a vertical garden. Currently I am about 80% done and I am running into a... creative (?) roadblock. The planter boxes are built and stained (with waterproof stain) and the studs are in the process of being screwed into the wall. My wife has decided that she wants brackets to hold the planters up to give it an extra fancy look, so I got brackets. My question here now is.. what would you guys recommend/use for these brackets? Should I be using wood screws? or nails? or some other type of material that would secure the bracket onto the box & studs? here's the bracket in question: https://www.etsy.com/listing/542062688/14-off-simple-elegantly-decorated-shelf?ref=listing-shop-header-0 Tell me what you guys think. Thanks!
  13. I know it's been almost a month since I responded. I was able to finally get it to square up on lock. it took a few attempts. I couldn't adjust the fence whenit's locked down (even when the screws are loosened) so i had to slowly adjust bit by bit till it locks perfectly straight
  14. I'll think that it should be reasonably stable once I lock the wheels. I figured that I can always lift the bench higher when I put it away. I was also considering re-doing the top and maybe give it a 12" wing on each side so the crossbar should be out of the way. I have yet to adjust the fence (I've been up to my eyeballs sanding down 100+ redwood planks for the vertical garden.. my fingers feel like it's got tiny springs at the tip of my finger for the past day now
  15. This might be a cop out on my part, but I was looking at this manual standing desk from home depot and I wonder if I could instead use this as my work bench and from time to time repurpose it as an outfeed table or even an extension to support longer pieces. it would also allow me to adjust the height to fit the table saw underneath when I dont need it and i was also considering expanding the table top to create a "wing" to overhang to get even more space. What do you think? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-62-in-W-x-24-in-D-Adjustable-Height-Workbench-Table-in-Black-HOLT62XDB12/301810799