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    Furniture, craft projects, shop-built tools

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HickWillis's Achievements

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  1. I am selling my block plane from Lie Nielsen. It has only been used a handful of times. I am only selling it because my SO got me the rabbeting block plane which I need more. It will come with the box and manual. It still has the wrapping and all. The blade is sharp and ready to be used. Asking $150 shipped. PayPal. Pictures are here: https://imgur.com/gallery/SAHzC
  2. I did the same thing. I always try and do the math in my head, keeps my brain active while working in the shop but sometimes I just have a brain fart and ask Alexa.
  3. I am not 100% sure on the backs. To flatten for sure I could run the backs on glass/granite with sandpaper correct? I will also do the sharpie thing and see what happens I am sure the irons are secure in the jig Thanks all
  4. Looks like Lee Valley came out with something similar http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=53613&cat=51&ap=1
  5. I recently picked up 3 DMT diamond plates (Coarse, Fine, X Fine) and the Veritas Mk II honing guide to sharpen up my chisels and plane irons. Before this I had nothing. While I am able to get them sharper than they were, I can't seem to get that super sharp feeling to them. My chisels don't seem to pare/chop well and my planes seem to create a lot of tear out despite checking grain direction, opening/closing mouth, and adjusting blade width. I feel like I am just missing something here. Here is my process: 1 - Sharpen on Corase to Fine to X Fine. I do about 20-30 passes on each plate. 2 - Turn the micro bevel knob on the guide and do a few passes on the X Fine 3 - Take the iron out and do a few passes on the backside to remove the bur. I've tried the ruler method too. 4 - Use a leather strop to finish
  6. Sweet, I have quite a few Jorgs, always liked them.
  7. I'm almost done with my kitchen reno and am putting the under cabinet lighting in and will also be putting on some cabinet moulding on the bottom. I only have access to what the home stores sell and found some oak chair moulding (it is smaller) that looks like it might work out well. Is using chair moulding for this application common? If not, any suggestions? I attached a picture of something similar to what I found at the orange store.
  8. Thanks for the tips everyone. I should be able to get some glue on there with pocket screws or a couple biscuits. I can also use the existing face frames to screw through. I still have some finish to put on everything so when it is all done, I will report back.
  9. Where would I do the screws from? i did refinish them. I still think the match came out nice. The other cabinets are old and the new one I'm putting in is new wood so it came out nice
  10. Hahaha. I didn't realize how funny this looks. That's my shoulder! Haha
  11. Hi all. So I am finishing up my kitchen Reno and I built one new cabinet and face frame. All the other cabinets were preexisiting and I'm looking for the best way to attach the face frame so it is aligned with the other and has a strong hold. I attached a picture of my test fit. The new cabinet is the lower part with the wine rack. It butts up against a cabinet on the left and is exposed (fridge) is on the right.
  12. I had some instructions printed on card stock...a 4x6 size. I think I used Vista Print. Here is what it looked like.
  13. When I was an inexperienced woodworker I did something similar to what you are doing. I didn't use biscuits, only had a pocket hole jig so I did 5 pocket holes on each side with some glue. It has held up just fine over the years. I will say that my back panel was made from 3/4" ply with some fancier wood over that. If I were to do it over again...I might try and do a stopped dado or sliding dovetail.
  14. I'm liking the walnut examples. That may be the winner
  15. That looks nice too, I have to decide how much contrast I want in the finished piece.