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  1. The only benefit to corrugated bottoms in my mind is that they're easier to flatten (since there's less material to remove). One other downside to them is that they're not as easy to balance on an edge for edge-jointing a board. I have several planes with corrugated bottoms, and they're fine, but if I had a choice on a new plane, I'd go for non-corrugated.
  2. I'd second @derekcohen's suggestion about using a light touch. When I first started, I thought I really needed to bear down with the burnisher to turn the edge, and I was never able to achieve a good edge on my scrapers. It was only after I watched a video recommending a very light touch on the burnisher that I was finally able to get acceptable results.
  3. I have a variety of vintage ones (starrett, etc) from estate sales as well as the lee valley ones mentioned by @shaneymack above. They all work fine, but I agree with @Tom King that for something like dovetails, a smaller 4" divider is nice.
  4. Is the patch cross-grain or the same direction? I'm sure it probably doesn't matter for something that thin, I'm just curious what you chose as I can't quite tell from the pictures.
  5. There are many freedoms that we give up to make our society safer (the freedom to drive 100mph on residential streets, for instance). I'm not sure why you think that some basic regulation on this one particular issue suddenly turns the USA from a free country into a non-free country.
  6. I'm not convinced that the wood type is really the important factor here. If it was designed properly to withstand twisting and racking forces, I think Alder would probably do just fine. Even construction grade pine would probably be strong enough with the right construction: There's not really any downside to going with a stouter wood (aside from cost), but I think the bigger issue is the design of the base.
  7. Well, it's possible that it's me that's missing something. But when I think of things that are different offsets but need to line up, I think of using a spacer. Having never used a domino, it's possible that there's some reason that this wouldn't work on a domino. For example, start by setting the fence for the mortise farthest from the reference face of the thicker stock. Leave the fence there. Cut those two mortises, then mill up a spacer (A) with thickness equal to the distance you want between the mortise rows and place that spacer between the domino fence and the stock. Cut the top row of mortises. Then mill up another spacer (B) equal to the apron offset. Cut the two far mortises on the thinner stock using the apron spacer (B), and then use both spacers (A+B) to cut the other row. Like I said, I've never used a domino so maybe there's some reason that doesn't work.
  8. I suppose you could simply use a spacer against the fence so you can do one row, then remove the spacer and then do the other row? Same spacer would be used for the leg mortises.
  9. I think that's just an old-fashioned bar clamp, but the clamping pad appears to be missing. The block on the left can just hook into one of several notches on the bottom to accomodate different widths. Sort of like this:
  10. I got all mine from estate sales / garage sales. I ended up with some duds before I really knew what to look for, but I have about 50 auger bits now in various sizes, and they were all dirt cheap. Just make sure you do a little research on what to look for in used auger bits and invest in a auger sharpening file and you should be able to stock up for not too much money.
  11. Yeah, that worry seems valid. From your pictures it appears as if the "breadboard" ends are just butted up to the ends of your table and screwed in place. Am I reading the pictures correctly? Breadboards are intended to hold a wide table flat by restricting it from cupping. In order to do that, the breadboard really needs to have a mechanical connection (tongue and groove, mortise and tenon, etc) to the other boards of the table. A 'breadboard' that is simply screwed on to the end becomes almost purely an aesthetic feature, rather than a functional one. And as you suggested, if somebody happened to lean hard (or sit) on the end of the table, it would probably break off quite easily. Still: well done for a first project. I'm sure you learned a lot building it.
  12. You can. And this is in fact how I mill all of my stock. It's very close to perfectly parallel, but it's difficult to get perfect. And if I'm doing multiple boards, they may be just slightly different thicknesses (which you can flush up after they're assembled, etc). As long as you keep in mind which face is the reference face, it's good enough for almost everything. But it probably won't be quite as perfectly parallel and thicknessed as a machine. So I'd be a little hesitant to use this method for mortising with my hand-planed boards, since the method requires the boards to all be exactly the same width with perfectly parallel faces.
  13. Ignoring the "enjoyment" aspect, this statement is mostly true, but not completely. For a person with limited space, hand-cutting a mortise and tenon makes a lot of sense. I can do it with only a chisel, a backsaw, and a workbench. On the other hand, a machine cut mortise and tenon will likely involve a hollow chisel mortiser or router, and a tablesaw or bandsaw (and probably a workbench for cleanup/fitting). And while it's certainly slower to chop a 8 mortises by hand, it's fast enough for me (and I'm getting a bit faster every time I do it). I have an all hand-tool shop (+bandsaw) mostly because I enjoy working that way. But also because I simply don't have room for a bunch of machines.
  14. Well, I do make sure that the face and edge are at 90. (I said "roughly" only because I do my milling by hand, so I only spend enough effort to make sure that the face is flat and without twist and is 90* to the edge. I don't spend a lot of time getting it perfectly smooth since it may have to be adjusted after resaw). I was mostly curious about how many people mill s4s before resawing. And as a corollary: Do most people find that their boards stay flat enough after resaw that they can leave the trued-up face alone after resaw? Or is it common for some twist to happen that requires re-milling the original reference face(s)? Maybe I'm unlucky and have been getting boards with too much internal stress, but I often find that the original face is not perfectly flat and twist-free after resawing. I suppose it depends quite a bit on what size stock you're resawing. Thicker boards will likely move less, whereas resawing something like a 5/4 board into 2 thin boards (for small boxes, drawer sides, etc) is perhaps likely to move more.
  15. I'm curious about this. You suggest milling up the 8/4 board S4S before resawing. But in my experience, wood nearly always moves (at least a little bit) after re-sawing, which might result in some twist or cup in the boards. So wouldn't it make more sense to wait to do final milling until the board is done moving (i.e. after resaw)? It seems that if you mill it before resawing and then need to mill it again after resawing, you'd potentially end up losing more thickness than if you just waited to do all milling after resawing. My usual approach is get a face and edge roughly square with hand planes before resawing. But I'm curious what others do.