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About OldSouthWoodCraft

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    Journeyman Poster
  • Birthday 09/22/1987

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  • Location
    Greenville, SC
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, small projects, tables, wall art, one off, live edge, hybrid woodworking, old growth oak, heart pine, walnut, and maple

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  1. If I remember correctly Shannon Rogers mentioned in a show a few months back that there are some rather large groups/guilds in the Metro DC area. You may want to get in touch with them. If there is a large collection then it would be worth driving to Delaware to look at the tools. But I also highly agree with the yard sale type of sale and try to post it on the WW guild Facebook. The more people you can drive to it the better. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  2. As long as the amperage and voltage match up then I don't think you should have a problem. I've switched out of alot of 220 plugs over the years for a twist lock style. The biggest issue is whether or not the wiring is the same. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  3. Maybe a low speed sander and some 400 grit. Take the fingers to the sander and not the other way around. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  4. Since its polyurethane based I would use whatever a can of poly says to use for clean up. Possibly acetone? 🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️ Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  5. Could be alder Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  6. Since it has a rather unique look and shape could you possibly make a one of a kind planing stop? Something of a half moon shape with teeth along the leading edge. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  7. I wouldn't turn down oak so quickly. English oak and French oak have been used for centuries to make barrels for wine, beer, and spirits. I don't have much input other than this as I never turn and know very little about it. Sorry Andrew. http://www.iscbarrels.com/2017/03/30/oak-species-for-cooperage/ Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  8. That's a pretty nice looking setup. What bit are you using and also how sharp is the bit? I've flattened a few large slabs and depending on the wood species it can dull the edge really quick. It could also be that the crotch figure is causing some of the tear out but I'm no expert on figure. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  9. Since this is going to be pretty permanent I would use Redhead concrete anchors. No epoxy mess. The process is basically the same but the anchors use a wedge force action to hold themselves to the concrete instead of gluing the anchors into place. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  10. You can possible try to carefully drill into the vertical mortar lines. They should be thicker and much tighter inside the block cavity. You might still have blow out but it's better than drilling into the block face itself. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  11. Cinder block has very little holding power when it comes to screw or bolts unless you through bolt them or add a glop of epoxy to bond with the block. The issue is that block is super porous and thin walled. So when you drill into it, the block blows out in the cavity. The only way this works is with grout filled block cavities. I would try to make vertical members that have a soul plate that can be mounted to the floor to prevent the whole thing from rotating forward and out. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  12. I havent filled alot of my cut lines until recently when I got a white lead fill for my Pica Dry Marker. It really helps when working with darker woods. Plus the white lead also makes marking the waste super easy. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  13. I think I can make that work then. Get some scrap wood to get the wood off the ground, tent the whole bundle (thankfully I have lots of poly), and then let it bake in the sun for a few days. For a little extra protection I'm going to throw some boric powder in with it to kill anything trying to escape. Thanks for the info Tom. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  14. Tom since I live in a residential neighborhood, building any sort of shed type structure is out of the question. Do you think a elevating the slabs off the ground and then tarping the entire stack with black poly would be sufficient? I have heard that the minimum temp to drive out bugs is 140° but that could be hearsay. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  15. I picked up a number of spalted oak, spalted maple, and a little bit of cedar off cuts (still plenty of meat left on the bone) yesterday and noticed that termites had made their rounds in oak when it was still standing and I imagine they might still be lingering in the wood. I was planning on bringing the wood into the shop to finish drying out and don't want to bring in a bunch of critters with it. So what do you all recommend for a treatment prior to bringing it into the shop? Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk