Steve B Anderson

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About Steve B Anderson

  • Rank
    Journeyman Poster
  • Birthday 10/19/1960

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    New Ulm, Texas
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, jewelry boxes...etc. Planning on selling my work for supplement retirement income in the future.

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  1. I don’t have an Incra so I’ll have to rig up something. Thinking about getting one of those digital protractors to set the miter gauge with. I really appreciate you taking the time out of you busy schedule to do this. Looks like everyone is enjoying as much as myself.
  2. That does look a little scary. Do you take it all in one pass or sneak up on it with small cuts? Looking good Dave.
  3. Chet, This is the ultimate gift that a grandfather can receive. If it was me, I would frame that sign and treasure it forever. I know $50 doesn’t go far in the wood yard, but build something special just for them. Steve
  4. Very fine work Ken. Just as I predicted before you started, you’ll make the cover of FWW magazine. Very nice bud!!!
  5. Sorry this happened to you Goob. Usually with dado cuts the blade is not exposed to the outer surface. To help the community, can you explain a little more on what went wrong?
  6. Welcome to the forum. I was in your position when I first started my venture into woodworking. It takes a good budget to just get started and after acquiring the big dollar equipment, I was left with very little capital to spend on hand tool sharpening systems. So I went to the big box store and purchased three panes of window glass and glued them together to make a somewhat flat surface. I would put blue painters tape at the corners and a dot of super glue to secure a 1/3 sheet of 9x11 sand paper to the glass. I didn’t have the funds for a good honing guide, so I used one of those $12 POS guides. This setup will make just about everyone here cringe, but you can get a fairly sharp edge this way in a bind. Beware, your edge will not be square, the back of your irons and chisels will not be flat, but it’s better than working with dull tools or waiting for the outside sharpening. Just a bit of advise, save up for a Verites MK II honing guide system and some good quality diamond or water stones. You will then realize how easy it is to get a professional quality edge on your tools.
  7. I see the same situation in the metal working industry. These days there are very few American made machine companies. Back in the day Cincinnati Milacron was a leader in US CNC Lathes and Mills and now Japanese and German machinery rule the roost.
  8. I’m going to respond to this without reading any of the responses posted. I was once a glue and screw type of guy. When I decided to build a “real” piece of furniture, I had to change my way of woodworking. I studied all of the more advanced joint techniques, asked a million on this form and lord and behold the mortise and tenon joint came into my life. After just a hand full of projects, I personally can never go back to glue and screw for even a short life project. I don’t woodwork for money, so anything I build I build for a life time. I’m not knocking any other lesser jointing techniques, I just can’t do it that way anymore.
  9. Everyone has their own process for milling rough stock and a lot depends on the size of your jointer. I have a 6” jointet and the table length is only good for about 4’ board length. First I will roughly mark out the peices I want out of each board depending on grain presentation. I will then cut the boards into manageable lengths (4 feet or less if possible) I add 4” to each board length to compensate for planer snipe. I will then rip saw the width an 1/8” wide on the bandsaw. This can also be done on your tablesaw if a bandsaw is unavailable. Just be careful when ripping material 1-3/4” or thicker as it will tend to relieve stress and close up causing kick back. I’ve had to insert shims into the out feed kerf to prevent binding on thick stock. Now I go to the jointer and cleanup one face. Then thru the planer leaving a little sanding stock. I then cut the pieces to length with a cross cut sled on the tablesaw. I was a beginner just a year or so ago and was asking the same questions you are asking now. I had like 30 replies from every experienced woodworker on this forum and with their advise and guidance I am now able to take raw material to a finished product.
  10. I agree with what @K Cooper said about the fence. Just make sure the fence and base is parallel and perpendicular with your spindle.
  11. Give it the push test first. The base looks a little sub par for most woodworking benches. I would recommend a bench that has more beef in the legs and cross members. Looking at the pictures you posted, even if there is some some slop, there are ways to stiffen the bench. $350 max would be my offer.
  12. I would like to bump this post just to help educate beginner woodworkers and especially machinists woodworkers like myself. I am starting to realize that you can not obtain machine shop tolerances in woodworking. But I still try. Steve B Anderson
  13. I just received my 1/4” and 1/2” Blue Spruce dovetail chisels. It took 4 weeks but it was worth the wait. They are almost to pretty to hit with a mallet. I’ll post a review with pics in the product review topic but I’m curious on what chisels you decided to go with.
  14. That’s one heavy duty drill you got there Tom. Be sure to use drill drifts when changing out bits with the Morse taper.