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About Carl10

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  1. Carl10

    DC piping questions

    Prov, No war starting, but DC topics usually have a lot of opinions and subjectivity (not too much in this discussion). Bottom line is what do you want from your DC? To feel air moving through an opening and the ease to make that happen. Or to move the most air possible with the equipment you have. There are countless numbers of people that saw a YouTube guy use undersized pipe on his DC and it picked up chips so they copied it and then went on to profess themselves as experts of using undersized pipe and how great it works! (all untested of course). Do they move air? Will they pick up chips? Is it cheap? Of course. Could it be better, absolutely. The funniest was when someone asked for help on a system that he was going to use corrugated drain pipe, because he had it. It too would work, until it clogs. So there are pros and cons to whatever you connect. Usually cheap and easy has a performance impact.....
  2. Carl10

    DC piping questions

    Jfitz, I had the same unit several years ago and the unit has been tested by wood magazine among others. So fan curves are available to get performance numbers. Generally, 1.5HP-2HP units have 11-12" impellers (HF is the exception with 10") will get choked down with 4" ducts and they can't produce enough CFMs in 6" ducts to maintain a high enough velocity, so 5" ducts are the best balance. Carl
  3. Carl10

    DC piping questions

    prov, With most 1.5HP-2HP units and small runs you are better off using 5" HVAC ducting. Out of the box with 4" ducting you will be starting with ~575CFM and reducing it with every foot of 4" pipe you add. With 5" you will probably start ~675CFM. You will have ~50% more duct area with 5" (6" is too big). With your short runs the cost is only slightly more. Here are some sources for material (whatever size you use): Blast gates and hose are available here 5" Aluminum ~$12 Wyes here ~$13 (these are actually longer than pictured ~24") and here ~$20 or Ducting: 5 pack of 26 gauge Hope this helps. Let us know what you do. Carl
  4. Carl10

    Shop security and cameras

    I will have to lean on the side of seeing what happened after the fact vs. preventing anything. If they know there is a cam they put their head down cap on/hood up and proceed. Or... I live in a town across from the library and a retirement home and next door to several townhouses. At 5 in the afternoon a girl and her mother were walking on the other side of the street from my house. The girl ran across, followed by her mother walking and the girl stole a package from amazon (a 12" drill bit extension!!) from my porch. They both walked to their car across the street and drove off. The signs did not deter them, but the box drew them in. Because my cameras allowed me to see the book in the girls hands as she reached in to get my package, I checked with the library and they said that book was checked out at the time the package was stolen. I gave the info to the police and they got the girl and the mother based on the library info. Although the frame below does not look that clear it is from HD video and the girl was moving fast. BTW Only after the prosecutor saw the video of the mother accompanying the girl across the street did they press charges against her as well So what does this mean: Better cameras make a difference, signs don't. It was 5 in the afternoon, with many people walking around and they were brazen. I use a free PC based software called Milestone (it is a commercial package that they allow 8 free cameras). The motion sensing allows me to pre-record what ever amount of time I want before the motion is detected and however much after. I use IP cameras wired to my utility room. The PC acts as a server of sorts for all our backups and runs my automation and video surveillance software. I use separate motion sensors for lights and to notify me when motion is detected because video motion is hard to get reliable. Outside video motion can be triggered with light changes (car headlights panning the area), leaves blowing, rain and snow, birds and bugs too. My setup is a little more involved than many may want to bother with, but maybe it will give you some other perspectives to consider depending on whatever you decide to use. Hope this helps. Carl
  5. Carl10

    Sound insulation

    I would not waste your time or money on the blanket angle. As others have suggested you need mass to absorb sound. The reason I say pass is I was in a condo that faced a busy road and my son's room would get some loud car and truck noises in his room (the background din was not an issue). I bought specialty sound blankets used for temporary sound recording studios to cover the windows. Because they were set sizes I was able to double the blanket material over the window. The blankets were very heavy ~5-10x the weight of a moving blanket. Bottom line, there was an improvement, but not significant and at $80 for 2 blankets you have better/more options. Hope this helps. Let us know what you do. Carl
  6. Grant, I have looked at doing exactly that modification. It appears very easy (just haven't order the material.). It looks like removing the fence and replacing with a plate to cover the 4 mounting screws (~4"x5") from the top and an extrusion to mount on the middle of the plate. I look at the Mitsumi extrusions (~1x3?) for a milled length and I think it was about $25-30. The plastic runner on the back of the current fence could be reused. Hope that helps. Let us know what you do. Carl
  7. Carl10

    Dust collection help

    An alternative idea would be to sell your Shop Fox on CL $50-$100 and add that to what you would spend on a HF DC and buy just about any 1.5HP DC on CL. As you can see from the attached chart, due to its undersized impeller the HF performs below all the tested 1.5HP DCs and just above a typical 1HP DC (like yours). Since both tools are stationary and have short runs you can switch to hard ducts (eliminate all flex hose) which will provide less resistance, resulting in better performance. Also eliminate any hard 90s like the one attached to your current DC. A separator is a great idea, keeping your filter cleaner longer, but it reduces your airflow significantly, so the more power you have upfront the better performance you will end up with. Changing the configuration is also a big help, eliminating the flex hose between the separator and blower. As far as gates, I have a few plastic ones and they work, but leak and don't self clean. I plan on making some better gates down the road. Since you only need two it is probably worth it to buy good gates. This company has decent prices on their gates. Hope that helps. Let us know what you do. Carl
  8. Carl10

    Dust collection -- on the far end

    You could definitely go with the HF DC, which I almost did for a temporary solution (shop is being torn up and rebuilt) until I found this review (look at the chart on page 67) which shows every other 1.5HP dc outperforming the HF 2HP (central machinery) DC due to its undersized 10" impeller (most 2HP have 12"+ size impellers). So I instead went on CL to look for a 1.5HP DC, which there is never a shortage of units for sale! I can get a used 1.5HP DC with better performance on CL for the same price as a new HF unit. Hope this helps. Let us know what you do. Carl
  9. Carl10

    Good dust collection with 120v?

    Leros, Unless you modify your HF with the 12" rikon impeller (up from the installed 10") you will not have enough power for your shop. There is an old DC review that shows the results of putting that small of an impeller on a DC It basically shows the stock HF 2HP DC is outperformed by every 1.5HP DC tested due to the smaller impeller. Unless you go to a 3hp blower or higher there really is no need to use 6" ducts. 5" is optimum for the 1.5-2HP DC. If you did the upgrade, mounted the blower on the SDD and used a good large filter with 5" ducts you could probably get adequate chip collection, but nothing more. It really depends on your expectations. Many people do less than the above and believe it is adequate for them. Of course that is purely subjective. You could also get a 2 or 3hp DC on CL and add a SDD (the 3HP would require 220) Hope that helps. Let us know what you do. Carl
  10. Carl10

    mini dust gorilla 2.0

    Rodger if your already have the delta why not do something like this: Hope this helps...Let us know what you do. Carl
  11. Carl10

    Wood Shop Flooring Options

    @Vic - love the floor! I can't believe that is plywood. Can you tell me more about what is underneath, how you attached, how many coats of shellac, etc... Thanks, Carl
  12. Carl10

    Considering a dust collector

    Colin, As Jfitz stated you don't say a lot about what you have or need. Why would going from brand A 1HP DC be an improvement over brand b 1HP DC? (It could but not likely of any significance). As Eric stated these smaller DCs are not going to get the fine dust. It is also worth looking at a comparison of what these machines are capable of doing so see the chart in this old review You will see your current 1HP unit at the bottom of the 4" Port Performance curves (below the minimum performance line). Just above that and below every other 1.5 & 2HP DC is the HF DC. You will see it could be used for very short runs. As others have said if you can port outside it will get even better! The more you share about your current set up and future needs and expectations the better answers we can provide. Hope this helps and let us know what you do. Carl
  13. Carl10

    Dust System Questions

    Looks good! I really like the chair. I misunderstood about the CV. I thought your "converted 3hp system" was to re purpose the 3HP blower on a CV body (I have read of others trying to do just that, but no actual real world examples). I am sure your are extremely happy with the performance of your CV. Carl
  14. Carl10

    Dust System Questions

    Cheeset, Can you post pics of your shop with the new system? How is your 3HP working with the Clearvue? Do you have any way to measure airflow at your different machines? How is the separation with the 3HP motor? Keep us posted. Carl
  15. Carl10

    table saw blade storage options

    Yeah with hardboard dividers. I was going to keep all my blades in one drawer maybe with fixed dividers between sizes to keep the weight down when flipping. Carl