Alonzo

Has anyone else done this? Instead of buying a festool domino to do breadboards, I used my plunge router with an edge guide to cut the mortises. I made my own loose tenon's. I use a 2" long x 1/2" diameter router bit. I was surprised how simple this was. I only had to set the edge guide once to cut the mortises. It took maybe 10 minutes to scribe it out and cut. I glued the center tenon and elongated the holes for the dowels on the outer tenon's, allowing for wood movement. Let me know what you think.

Yeah I'm trying to decide to buy a plunge router or a drill press with a mortise attachment to do my breadboards on a dining table. Personally, I dont see my self using a drill press as much as I could use my router. I'm doing breadboards that are 38" x10"x1 1/2. What would you recommend, router or drill press with mortise attachment?

I checked out the manual. It say nothing about using a 1/2" shank. Also it looks like the collet works for only 1/4". Looks like I'm buying a new router, sounds like they are better anyways. Thanks everyone.

Craftsman 8 amp 1.5 hp router

I have a router that receives a 1/4" in bit, however I just received some router bits that are 1/2". My question: is there an adapter for my 1/4" router to receive 1/2" bits? I've shopped around and can't find anything. Thanks.

Also since the bread board allows for wood movement , is it normal for the breadboard to expand outside of the long boards?

Ok great. Do you think I could do a loose tenon for the breadboard so I can maintain the length of the table? The table is douglas fir. Could I use doug fir for the loose tenon? If I do a loose tenon, how many would I need? I have four 2x11s joined together. I see a split tenon is common, however I don't get why people do that. Breadboards are to stop cupping right, so what difference does the tenon length make? Thanks for your help.

Ok thanks Tiods. Most the videos I saw were on breadboards that are not very wide, my breadboard is around 10 inches wide. Also, it does not rest on an apron, but a 2x4 I attached below to the top. How can I make it strong enough and allow movement without screwing it together?

I have one more question. I attached the breadboards with the kreg jig and glued. Then screwed and glued two 2x4 to the bottom to support it. The ends are a 1/4" long now since the middle has shrunk. How can I fix this? Do I have to do a joinery joint to install the breadboard? Or is there another way? The breadboard is 10"x1.5"x42"

Ok great that's very helpful. Thanks.

Do I drill a hole wider in the upper Trestle part so the hanger bolt can move side to side with the table top? While the hanger Bolt stays tight into the table top.

How can I attach a table top without an apron to allow wood movement? The top will sit on 2 4x4s 38 inches long. Its a trestle style base. The top is built out 4 2x12s that were kreg jigged and glued together. I'm rebuilding the top because the wood dryed and seperated where it was joined together. Z fasteners and buttons won't work since there's no apron. I attached the top with screws and hanger bolts before, which now I've realized was a bad idea. Any help, thanks. Pictures are below.

Thanks everyone. Nice picture Eric. Looks like ill be ripping it down.

I think you are right about that knot. The grain changes and turns a little wave. I attached a pic.

Its only the right corner that's bending up, so if I rip the entire thing down the middle, the remaining 3/4 of the table won't line up properly. The rest of the slab is flat. Its only about a 2'x2' section curling up. This slab is just above the pith.