
Alonzo
Members-
Content Count
19 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Has anyone else done this? Instead of buying a festool domino to do breadboards, I used my plunge router with an edge guide to cut the mortises. I made my own loose tenon's. I use a 2" long x 1/2" diameter router bit. I was surprised how simple this was. I only had to set the edge guide once to cut the mortises. It took maybe 10 minutes to scribe it out and cut. I glued the center tenon and elongated the holes for the dowels on the outer tenon's, allowing for wood movement. Let me know what you think.
-
Yeah I'm trying to decide to buy a plunge router or a drill press with a mortise attachment to do my breadboards on a dining table. Personally, I dont see my self using a drill press as much as I could use my router. I'm doing breadboards that are 38" x10"x1 1/2. What would you recommend, router or drill press with mortise attachment?
-
I checked out the manual. It say nothing about using a 1/2" shank. Also it looks like the collet works for only 1/4". Looks like I'm buying a new router, sounds like they are better anyways. Thanks everyone.
-
Craftsman 8 amp 1.5 hp router
-
I have a router that receives a 1/4" in bit, however I just received some router bits that are 1/2". My question: is there an adapter for my 1/4" router to receive 1/2" bits? I've shopped around and can't find anything. Thanks.
-
Also since the bread board allows for wood movement , is it normal for the breadboard to expand outside of the long boards?
-
Ok great. Do you think I could do a loose tenon for the breadboard so I can maintain the length of the table? The table is douglas fir. Could I use doug fir for the loose tenon? If I do a loose tenon, how many would I need? I have four 2x11s joined together. I see a split tenon is common, however I don't get why people do that. Breadboards are to stop cupping right, so what difference does the tenon length make? Thanks for your help.
-
Ok thanks Tiods. Most the videos I saw were on breadboards that are not very wide, my breadboard is around 10 inches wide. Also, it does not rest on an apron, but a 2x4 I attached below to the top. How can I make it strong enough and allow movement without screwing it together?
-
I have one more question. I attached the breadboards with the kreg jig and glued. Then screwed and glued two 2x4 to the bottom to support it. The ends are a 1/4" long now since the middle has shrunk. How can I fix this? Do I have to do a joinery joint to install the breadboard? Or is there another way? The breadboard is 10"x1.5"x42"
-
Ok great that's very helpful. Thanks.
-
Do I drill a hole wider in the upper Trestle part so the hanger bolt can move side to side with the table top? While the hanger Bolt stays tight into the table top.
-
How can I attach a table top without an apron to allow wood movement? The top will sit on 2 4x4s 38 inches long. Its a trestle style base. The top is built out 4 2x12s that were kreg jigged and glued together. I'm rebuilding the top because the wood dryed and seperated where it was joined together. Z fasteners and buttons won't work since there's no apron. I attached the top with screws and hanger bolts before, which now I've realized was a bad idea. Any help, thanks. Pictures are below.
-
Thanks everyone. Nice picture Eric. Looks like ill be ripping it down.
-
I think you are right about that knot. The grain changes and turns a little wave. I attached a pic.
-
Its only the right corner that's bending up, so if I rip the entire thing down the middle, the remaining 3/4 of the table won't line up properly. The rest of the slab is flat. Its only about a 2'x2' section curling up. This slab is just above the pith.