QHC

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  1. Yup, mortise and tenon joints. Surly someone has some 8 quarter poplar. If not, I'd glue up two 4 quarter boards together then plane them down to 1 3/8".
  2. Very nice work, but not at all my cup of tea (the exposed tenons that is). The rest of it is beautiful. QHC
  3. The frame is dadoed? What, why? Typically the frame would be put together with mortise and tennon joints, or using pocket screws. Then you pin nail it to the carcass. If you want to just glue it, in the future, glue and clamp it on before you put the back on so you can get clamps on. I never glue backs on. Rabbit the sides, nail the back on all the way around and to all the shelves. When you glue up the frame you make sure it's square. When you put it on, it will square the carcass. Make sure the back is square, when you nail it on it will square the carcass as well. From where
  4. I know this is a long thread, but here's my 2 cents. . . 1. I'd stay away from combo machines at all costs. No really! 2. I'm not sure what you are building that requires boards wider than 6" to build. And if you do run in to the need once in a while you can still use your 6" jointer to flatten up to a 12" board using this method: https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/joinery/wideboards 3. Bottom line, I'd keep your 6" Ridgid, make sure it is setup correctly, learn how to install straight knives (it's not really that hard) and spend your money on another ma
  5. I think it is very doable to strengthen the existing frame. This is how I would go about it. First, remove the angled supports at each leg. Inspect the bolts going into each leg and make sure they can be tightened when you reinstall the supports. Typically the bolts going into each leg are like lag bolts on the leg side and a machine thread on the other end. You put two nuts on the machine thread side and jamb them together so you can wrench the bolts securely into the legs. Then put a washer and nut on the outside of the angled support. For the modification, I would start with 8
  6. Does the hinge look strong enough. Yes, but that's only one consideration. As others have said; depending on what you are screwing into, the hinge itself is probably not the weakest link. My vote goes to a piano hinge as well. Then the lid needs some kind of lid stay. At a minimum, a chain that would hold the lid just past 90 degrees so that it could stay open by itself without slamming down, and better if it allowed for slowing the lid down when shutting. Finally I would not use hinges with removable pins in a horizontal position. QHC
  7. Some good points being made. I totally agree with the Serpentine belt requiring more tension than the weight of the motor would provide. My experience with link belts is that they are way over rated. If you have vibration, it's because something is out of wack (that's a pretty technical term) the pulleys or the bearings, or the v-belt itself had developed an issue, but v-belts should run smooth if the bearings, pulleys and alignment are all good. Having said that, I have an old Craftsman saw from the 60's. I think it's a 100 series, but it doesn't say. I put a 3 HP Marathon compressor
  8. So here's my 2 cents. two pieces of MDF with a laminate top would be my choice. Melamine, as someone said, is a type of surface you can get on particle board and MDF. It does not come in sheets. It's basically the very top surface of laminate. Laminate readily comes in two thicknesses. 1/16" and 1/32". 1/32" laminate is referred to as vertical grade. Either will be fine on a router table top, although the 1/16" is much stronger from a 'if you drop something heavy on the top' standpoint. As for the balancing of laminate on the top and bottom surfaces. Yes that's important if you a
  9. My take would be that the typical contractor type 10" table saw or the Hybrid type 10" shop saw (both with 1.5HP to 2HP motors) would have an arbor speed of 3450 to around 4000. A 3HP and larger cabinet saw would be in the 4000 to 4300 range. I would think that the old 1.5HP motor was 3450 rpm. So going to a 3 HP motor, I would stay with the same size pulleys that the old motor had for your larger motor. If it was me, and I was going to upgrade the pulleys, I'd get dual V-Belt pulleys and a matched set of belts instead of the link belt. QHC
  10. There are 4 basic types of wood bleach. 1) Chlorine bleach (strong stuff from a pool company) will take out dye stains, but will not lighten the wood itself. 2) Hydrogen Peroxide (strong 35% type) will take out some stains like mildew in maple, also will not lighten the wood itself. 3) Oxalic Acid will removed the dark stains from metal and water contacting woods with high tannin content like oak., and also will not lighten the wood itself. And finally the two part product made of of sodium hydroxide and 35% hydrogen peroxide. This will take all or most of the color of the wood out. You c
  11. QHC

    Push blocks

    This basic shape/design is the best for almost all through cuts. https://jayscustomcreations.com/2014/03/the-best-push-stick-ever-invented/ QHC
  12. If you can pull it back together with clamps, then gluing will work. The easier it is to pull together with clamps the more likely the repair will last over time. If it's really hard to close the crack with clamps, then the it's likely that the internal tension in the wood will break the board somewhere else at some point. A regular wood glue joint, white or yellow, is stronger than the wood, so I don't see any reason to use epoxy. If you can't pull it together with clamps, then the board will have to be replaced. If everything is doweled and glued together then saw the board out eit
  13. Here's an idea if you would like something more secure than using dowels. These are Steel Bed Rail Fasteners, available from Rockler, that lock when slid together. Align them so that when you slide the upper section to the rear they lock. Then, on the back, put a screw at a 45 degree angle going through the top section into the top effectively keeping the rail fasteners in their locked position. http://www.rockler.com/heavy-duty-wrought-steel-bed-rail-fasteners-4-pack-select-size QHC
  14. This is the least expensive new saw that I would consider. Look for it on sale or go used. https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-13-Amp-10-in-Professional-Cast-Iron-Table-Saw-R4512/202500206 Just my opinion. Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
  15. BTW, The PM60HH is not a parallagram jointer. Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk