QHC

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  1. Yup, mortise and tenon joints. Surly someone has some 8 quarter poplar. If not, I'd glue up two 4 quarter boards together then plane them down to 1 3/8".
  2. Very nice work, but not at all my cup of tea (the exposed tenons that is). The rest of it is beautiful. QHC
  3. The frame is dadoed? What, why? Typically the frame would be put together with mortise and tennon joints, or using pocket screws. Then you pin nail it to the carcass. If you want to just glue it, in the future, glue and clamp it on before you put the back on so you can get clamps on. I never glue backs on. Rabbit the sides, nail the back on all the way around and to all the shelves. When you glue up the frame you make sure it's square. When you put it on, it will square the carcass. Make sure the back is square, when you nail it on it will square the carcass as well. From where you are at now, use some heavy calls the full width of the cabinet. Either put a curve down the length, or put a 1/4" to 1/2" spacer under the center so that when you clamp the ends it will put pressure on the center as well. The edge of plywood accepts glue well, definitely not like end grain. Personally I would pin nail it and drive on. If you are afraid of the filler not staining, then fill the pin holes, after you've finished the piece, with matching putty. The kind that you just dab in and flush with your finger. Then you can put a final clear coat over it. You'll never see the filler when finished. Good luck.
  4. I know this is a long thread, but here's my 2 cents. . . 1. I'd stay away from combo machines at all costs. No really! 2. I'm not sure what you are building that requires boards wider than 6" to build. And if you do run in to the need once in a while you can still use your 6" jointer to flatten up to a 12" board using this method: https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/joinery/wideboards 3. Bottom line, I'd keep your 6" Ridgid, make sure it is setup correctly, learn how to install straight knives (it's not really that hard) and spend your money on another machine you don't have. 4. Getting rid of a lunch box type planner would be high on my list to start with, then save for a small wide belt thickness sander (now that's a machine you'll never be sad you put in your shop!) Just my 2 cents. Enjoy the journey. Q
  5. I think it is very doable to strengthen the existing frame. This is how I would go about it. First, remove the angled supports at each leg. Inspect the bolts going into each leg and make sure they can be tightened when you reinstall the supports. Typically the bolts going into each leg are like lag bolts on the leg side and a machine thread on the other end. You put two nuts on the machine thread side and jamb them together so you can wrench the bolts securely into the legs. Then put a washer and nut on the outside of the angled support. For the modification, I would start with 8 of these brackets. They require 6 screws for each bracket and they do not flex at all. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-1-2-in-Zinc-Plated-Inside-Corner-Brace-4-Pack-20492/204760767 They would install between the rails and the legs (2 per leg). Use 6 #8 x 1 1/2" screws in each bracket. You may have to use a shorter screw or vertically offset the brackets so that the screws don't run into each other. Then reinstall the original angled supports. Next add 3 supports to the support frame. One support in each of the three sections with the supports going the table length direction (90 degrees to the existing supports). You’ll have to offset the center one so you can screw into the end of each of the end supports. Next get 2 pieces of ¼” plywood each larger (length x width) than the table. Cut them so that each will be flush with the outside edges of the table support frame. These are going to be glued and nailed (or screwed if you want) to the top and bottom of the table frame. Each needs to be one piece. Trim the corners around the legs on the piece that will go on the underside of the frame and let the top one go over the top of the legs (so it can stay rectangular without any cutouts for the legs). Once these have both been nailed and glued to the frame, you have created a torsion box. Be sure to glue and nail/screw along all the supports (perimeter and interior supports). The nails/screws need to be 4-6” apart if you don’t use clamps and calls. This will make an incredibly stiff support. Next add the stretchers that wtnhighlander already mentioned, in the manner he describes. The easiest way to attach these, to an existing table, would be to cut the end stretchers to fit between the legs. Attach them to the legs using screws or dowels (two per leg). Drill holes to install either flush plugs or button plugs to hide the screws or dowels. Attach the long stretcher to the end stretchers using either a mortise and tennon joint or with screws or dowels in the same manner you use on the legs. Stretchers with the same width as the existing support frame should be sufficient. Let us know how it goes if you go this route. Quiller
  6. Does the hinge look strong enough. Yes, but that's only one consideration. As others have said; depending on what you are screwing into, the hinge itself is probably not the weakest link. My vote goes to a piano hinge as well. Then the lid needs some kind of lid stay. At a minimum, a chain that would hold the lid just past 90 degrees so that it could stay open by itself without slamming down, and better if it allowed for slowing the lid down when shutting. Finally I would not use hinges with removable pins in a horizontal position. QHC
  7. Some good points being made. I totally agree with the Serpentine belt requiring more tension than the weight of the motor would provide. My experience with link belts is that they are way over rated. If you have vibration, it's because something is out of wack (that's a pretty technical term) the pulleys or the bearings, or the v-belt itself had developed an issue, but v-belts should run smooth if the bearings, pulleys and alignment are all good. Having said that, I have an old Craftsman saw from the 60's. I think it's a 100 series, but it doesn't say. I put a 3 HP Marathon compressor motor on it from the Surplus Center with dual v-belt pulleys and a matched set of Goodyear v-belts. It had 2 cast iron tabletop extensions and one stamped steel Craftsman extension, plus a wood one I made (1 on the left and 4 on the right of the blade). I put a 6' Jet fence on it. That saw ran fantastic. My only gripe with it was the blade raising/lowering mechanism didn't have a lock, so the blade wouldn't hold it's position. Mine originally (at least when I bought it 2nd hand) had a 1 1/2 HP motor on. I don't think the increased weight of the 3 HP motor was an issue. Things that were built back then were way over built as compared to modern machinery. I used it that way for a few years and it was still going strong when I replaced it with a Jet sliding table saw. The trunnions can be hard to adjust, but well worth the effort to be sure the blade is not already parallel to the miter slots. Definitely trash the fence because the trash is exactly where it belongs! Post some pics. I think you'll have a very usable saw once completed. QHC
  8. So here's my 2 cents. two pieces of MDF with a laminate top would be my choice. Melamine, as someone said, is a type of surface you can get on particle board and MDF. It does not come in sheets. It's basically the very top surface of laminate. Laminate readily comes in two thicknesses. 1/16" and 1/32". 1/32" laminate is referred to as vertical grade. Either will be fine on a router table top, although the 1/16" is much stronger from a 'if you drop something heavy on the top' standpoint. As for the balancing of laminate on the top and bottom surfaces. Yes that's important if you are making a panel that has to stay straight on it's own, like a cabinet door for example. For a table top, which will have bracing, or a counter top that is affixed to a cabinet it is not necessary. I would put 1 1/2" hard wood edge around the perimeter, gluing and clamping it to the underside of the MDF, then 1 1/2" hardwood stringers every 12-14" running the shortest distance (if your top isn't square). Make sure the top is flat when you glue everything up. It will be very stable. Not having laminate or backer sheet on the bottom allows you to glue the edges and runners to the top. Laminate the edges and shoot a coat of clear on the bottom if you like to seal everything up if you think it's necessary. QHC
  9. My take would be that the typical contractor type 10" table saw or the Hybrid type 10" shop saw (both with 1.5HP to 2HP motors) would have an arbor speed of 3450 to around 4000. A 3HP and larger cabinet saw would be in the 4000 to 4300 range. I would think that the old 1.5HP motor was 3450 rpm. So going to a 3 HP motor, I would stay with the same size pulleys that the old motor had for your larger motor. If it was me, and I was going to upgrade the pulleys, I'd get dual V-Belt pulleys and a matched set of belts instead of the link belt. QHC
  10. There are 4 basic types of wood bleach. 1) Chlorine bleach (strong stuff from a pool company) will take out dye stains, but will not lighten the wood itself. 2) Hydrogen Peroxide (strong 35% type) will take out some stains like mildew in maple, also will not lighten the wood itself. 3) Oxalic Acid will removed the dark stains from metal and water contacting woods with high tannin content like oak., and also will not lighten the wood itself. And finally the two part product made of of sodium hydroxide and 35% hydrogen peroxide. This will take all or most of the color of the wood out. You can turn Walnut to very light color and red oak to white for example. Then you stain back to the desired color. Good luck and let us know how it goes. QHC
  11. QHC

    Push blocks

    This basic shape/design is the best for almost all through cuts. https://jayscustomcreations.com/2014/03/the-best-push-stick-ever-invented/ QHC
  12. If you can pull it back together with clamps, then gluing will work. The easier it is to pull together with clamps the more likely the repair will last over time. If it's really hard to close the crack with clamps, then the it's likely that the internal tension in the wood will break the board somewhere else at some point. A regular wood glue joint, white or yellow, is stronger than the wood, so I don't see any reason to use epoxy. If you can't pull it together with clamps, then the board will have to be replaced. If everything is doweled and glued together then saw the board out either at the glue line on each side, or leave 1/2" to 3/4" on each side, sawing up to the 45% joint. The 45% joint will bread apart easily without sawing. Then insert a new piece and glue in place with clamps. Good Luck, QHC
  13. Here's an idea if you would like something more secure than using dowels. These are Steel Bed Rail Fasteners, available from Rockler, that lock when slid together. Align them so that when you slide the upper section to the rear they lock. Then, on the back, put a screw at a 45 degree angle going through the top section into the top effectively keeping the rail fasteners in their locked position. http://www.rockler.com/heavy-duty-wrought-steel-bed-rail-fasteners-4-pack-select-size QHC
  14. This is the least expensive new saw that I would consider. Look for it on sale or go used. https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-13-Amp-10-in-Professional-Cast-Iron-Table-Saw-R4512/202500206 Just my opinion. Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
  15. BTW, The PM60HH is not a parallagram jointer. Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk