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About kyokahn

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    Apprentice Poster

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  • Location
    : San Jose, Costa Rica
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, design, tools
  1. Bosch Glide Mitersaw users ?

    The guys said at the beginning they'd be using the same blade on all saws for the test, but the Bosch footage where dust flies all over the place shows a different blade. Not saying dust collection is any good, just found that strange.
  2. Veneer help.

    - Grab a piece of wood and this or similar - Chop or route some space for the magnets, it doesn't have to be pretty at all - screw magnets to piece of wood - cover with veneer My main issue with your approach is that veneer can't be trusted to have any strength at all, and it might break just holding the magnets in place when you remove a knife.
  3. Leveling bed for van

    quick sketch - possibly the weirdest possible implementation, but might give you an idea. Friction should be more than enough, but any flat areas of the lever would have more hold.
  4. Leveling bed for van

    Ideally, level the van. If you must level the bed, I see two possible options that require no wrench: - Vertical cam levers under the bed, with a knob to fix them in position - wedges, each leg with a wedge shape cut off at the bottom, mounted on a rail. Then another wedge that slides over that rail, under the leg. no need for locking mechanism as long as the wedges run from the center of the bed towards the corners.
  5. Handheld Router Round Nose Bit plunge...

    That's awesome. Thanks!
  6. Wood for a Spa shelf

    It's tearout-y, more than splintery.
  7. Wood for a Spa shelf

    Everything over 3000lbs janka will be splintery, fibers are stronger than the bond between them. But if you can get cumaru/almendro (often sold for decking/flooring as well), it's a little less splintery than ipe.
  8. 2-sided 3D student project

    I already like them, not settling for the easy and all that. Will you be posting the end result?
  9. DIY cheap CNC - Test cut successful!

    F360, V-Carve, UGS The spindle is the weak point for now, since it's only 500w and 12k RPM. I do have 1/4" collets and a few bits from the router, but I wouldn't think that spindle can handle a fly cutter all that well, right? I can go up to 1/4" deep with the 1/8" but that risks breaking the bit so I stay at around the bit's diameter for stepdown. You're absolutely right! Though the machine itself is quite solid, the base it rests on wiggles when doing the helical entry. I changed to ramp or Z. Vibration hasn't been an issue, but the steppes still create some resonance. Backlash though... that remains an issue, as I can't use climb cutting unless I eliminate backlash almost entirely. I'll try some anti-backlash nuts later on, for now, I'll have to stick to conventional. Mechanical switches That's great, actually! Any other ideas on how to reduce backlash?
  10. Two great examples of CNC woodworking

    Then maybe you could use a CNC for joinery. I've seen some pretty crazy, easy to assemble stuff. There was a guy in the post that preceded the creation of this sub-forum that mentioned all-CNC joinery. As for finishing... I don't see robots taking over just yet
  11. Two great examples of CNC woodworking

    At first I thought it was just funny... but I think a sanding CNC could work. At least for flat surfaces, unless it's a full-on robot to sand everything. Also, flattening a slab is a perfectly acceptable use for a large CNC. Moving a router through straight lines for that long is NO FUN. Glue-ups and finishing are fun though, no clue why you'd like to give that away.
  12. Two great examples of CNC woodworking

    Work in front of a computer too, although it's a fairly different type of task, it is a bit boring to sit down again and design a part/toolpath. The same is true for designing your projects in sketchup or other software. Both are necessary sometimes.
  13. Two great examples of CNC woodworking

    No! You can't not like CNC! Seriously though, I think combining master craftsmen with precision technology is awesome! I don't think they need to actually cut a dovetail, or profile a curve, to feel the design is theirs anymore. Us newbies get that feeling of accomplishment with our first few manual M&Ts, but everyone's looking for a domino after a while. Master craftsmen today probably see CNC machines as those of yore saw apprentices. They can be good at manual work, but they need to be told exactly what to do. An apprentice being part of the production process never reduced the value of the pieces produced by a master craftsman. That's how I like to see it, at least.
  14. DIY cheap CNC - Test cut successful!

    Well, finally! First cuts are here. I pushed the acceleration a bit and kept the rapid speed. Rapid speed 4000mm/m Acceleration (grbl-no curve) 50mm/s/s Feed 2500mm/m (100ipm) 1/8 flat endmill - 12000 rpm - 2mm per pass - 2mm stepover adaptive mode + helix entry And a couple shots The good: 2 pockets 5mm deep in around 6 minutes. Fast enough considering the type of operation. No dust! Shavings is what I expected. Which translates to... No overheating! Bit was cold right after it was done Flat bottom = tramming is accurate! (thanks wixey angle gauge!) No vibration or deflection, no steps skipped and steppers barely at room temp = nema 17s are surprisingly good enough for this Difference in diameter from the f360 model to the actual pice= 0.4mm. Difference in diameter from X to Y direction = under 0.1mm Spindle is crazy quiet The bad: when fully accelerated, it vibrates a little at the bit, meaning it's almost exceeding the chip load so... the spindle's 12k rpm limit proved to be the limiting factor for the build, at least with 1/8 bits. I'll test 1/4 bits later where the limiting factor will likely be the spindle's own torque (.8 hp isn't very strong) no mounting setup yet ghetto cables! waiting for my cheapo drag chains need dust collection! The ugly: bed isn't flat... though at least i know it won't bend anymore due to the construction need to add a waste board with mounting options... and then flatten it. It will take a while forgot to grease the rails and lead screws before running it (do-oh!) So there it is! If you can think of something I can do to make the build better, or if you think the feeds/cutting strategy/tool paths have something wrong, do tell! I'm pretty lost, especially in the CAM side of things.
  15. DIY cheap CNC - Test cut successful!

    How so?