kyokahn

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About kyokahn

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    Apprentice Poster

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  • Location
    : San Jose, Costa Rica
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, design, tools

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  1. kyokahn

    Calibration question

    That's what I was going to suggest. It works, mostly, but be careful with the settings, climb will give you more backlash/chatter but lets you run higher RPMs/Feeds and is easier on the machine, so I'm guessing the compensation settings would be different for conventional. That's good to know, good luck with the next test cuts
  2. kyokahn

    Calibration question

    - Have you tested the machine for backlash? - Was this problem happening before? - Have you calibrated the steps per mm with accurate measuring tools? - Can you test again the same cuts but comparing conventional to climb milling? - Have you checked tramming and squaring? (these rarely affect dimensions, but might help)
  3. kyokahn

    Amateur woodworker fighting with Live oak

    While that's some hard wood, it's not the hardest hardwood. It's definitely not normal for wood to chew through carbide so quickly. suggestions: - Do shallower passes moving faster to minimize heat - Clean the bits as frequently as you can, and definitely as soon as you notice there's buildup you can't remove with your fingernails - Don't bother with diamond bits for wood, they'll just overheat and the bonding will fall off. Keep the carbide. The carvings are looking great! Same here
  4. kyokahn

    Where to buy sandpaper

    Mirka gold, precisely, Amazon had it on sale (packs of 50 for $17 if I remember correctly) some 6months ago and I ordered a bunch of them. I just ordered an Abranet assortment pack (35 total for $28) and a couple backer pads (so I don't chew through the hooks) yesterday, looks promising with the sander hooked to a vacuum. Any other pointers using the Abranet? How has it worked for you? Nothing like fabric-backed sandpaper rolls for hand sanding imo.
  5. kyokahn

    Where to buy sandpaper

    Well, I normally use Mirka and I've found it to be on a whole different level than the hardware store, dewalt or Norton. Haven't tried klinspor, has anyone tried both?
  6. Thank you. (-‸ლ)
  7. We're on the same page, just differ in the origin of that bad practice. My take on it is that most people need to buy temporary furniture in the beginning, but many never understand you're not supposed to do that your whole life under most circumstances. Where's my facepalm emoji...
  8. Not necessarily, there are many reasons for it. Upfront money is hard to come by while trying to establish a career nowadays, and with home ownership going down and employment relocations going up, moving is much more frequent and furniture won't look the same everywhere. Once you settle a bit more it's easier to buy for the long term, problem is some get used to "that's not what a table costs, why should I pay that much if IKEA sells for $100?" kinda thing. BTW, financial planning/responsibility/education is lacking everywhere, not particularly the US.
  9. I'm actually guessing the buyer expects that ting to warp and twist. Dude might be disappointed if it's perfect. The original one in the pic is already misaligned to the point it's almost unusable for anything that needs to remain balanced with a base over 4". - buy "legs" - buy cheapwood - make cheapwood picadillo - glue it all together at once, let dry - sand only to the point where everything look barely sanded - spray lacquer or water poly carelessly applied, better if it pools in the corners - do not sign that thing, and if the guy tags you on social media with pictures, report the post or close your accounts - ??? - profit Seriously though, I wouldn't worry too much about it. Many people (especially younger ones) seem to be ok with buying cheap furniture 10 times instead of good furniture once. It'll take them a while to get it, so you might as well turn a quick buck in the meantime.
  10. kyokahn

    Beginner - Impulse Buy

    A 4512 and a drill? man! you're all set up for a good start! Just make sure you understand table saw safety before you start working with it. Really, I have that saw and I couldn't think of anything better for its cost. A drill alone gives you a few options for joints: dowels, screws, pocket screws, screws + plugs, forstner + holesaw, etc. While the tablesaw has dadoes, half laps, tenons, box joint and more as you add jigs. That looks about as much space as I have right now to keep all of my stuff, though at least I have some space to roll them out.
  11. kyokahn

    Wood storage in humid climate

    You'd probably need that sled unless you get a huge jointer. The more motivation to make one. There another sled you can use to joint the edges on the TS, and the same sled can also help you cut tapers on the TS, so there's no reason to skip it either, especially if you have a lunchbox planer and no jointer like me
  12. kyokahn

    Some pretty fantastic redwood.

    He skipped leg day. Bros don't let bros skip leg day.
  13. kyokahn

    Need Thinner Riving Knife

    You could just buy a replacement riving knife for $11 https://www.grizzly.com/parts/RIVING-KNIFE/P1023RL327 and use a grinder to thin it down, keeping the original around. Or contact these guys techsupport@grizzly.com but I doubt you'd be any luckier considering it's in the manual. Or... Buy a thin kerf riving knife from sharkguard for about $40. http://thesharkguard.com/ordergriz1023rlwx.html , seems pretty reasonable to me.
  14. kyokahn

    My very own millennial token coffee table

    Countertop resin. Harder than the one made for thick pours and more UV resistance, at least better than the one I could find. I think you're right, it wasn't only that it was too thick. Pigments are not working as planned at all, in the 2nd test I've had no exotherm but one batch of blue became purple, so I wouldn't discard its chemistry playing with the catalyzer. That makes sense! I'll give it a shot. Might have to add a temporary slope but I like the idea. It's slow-ish cure but made for thin layers (1/4" or so). Bottom layer is a purpose made resin metallic pigment for countertops. When it bubbled up, everything cured immediately, the top is a big bubble, the bottom is tiny bubbles Did this for the second test, hope it works! I tested a smaller batch and it worked perfectly. A larger batch turned purple as I poured it. So I'm guessing the carrier is compatible, but the pigment itself not so much. I didn't use the gel dye at all on the first test, that deep blue you see came from a powder dye, alcohol soluble, that only shows up when the resin overheats apparently (didn't add any color on the second layer of the second test) So I've got the timings and layer height figured out, the problem now is the dye cause the ones I have either turn purple or disappear entirely when the hardener is added. No reliable supplier of epoxy dyes around here, I'm thinking either india ink, or ink straight from a Bic ball pen as the next test subjects.
  15. kyokahn

    My very own millennial token coffee table

    So here's the first test with the leftover material First layer went on just fine But then.... Second layer too thick, so it bubbled up. Here's a look at the back where I was also testing the sealers So I set a second test with a 1x2 piece of laurel I had leftover from another project and some more ugly melamine First layer on, and that's it for now