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About kyokahn

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    Apprentice Poster

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  • Location
    : San Jose, Costa Rica
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, design, tools
  1. Two great examples of CNC woodworking

    Then maybe you could use a CNC for joinery. I've seen some pretty crazy, easy to assemble stuff. There was a guy in the post that preceded the creation of this sub-forum that mentioned all-CNC joinery. As for finishing... I don't see robots taking over just yet
  2. Two great examples of CNC woodworking

    At first I thought it was just funny... but I think a sanding CNC could work. At least for flat surfaces, unless it's a full-on robot to sand everything. Also, flattening a slab is a perfectly acceptable use for a large CNC. Moving a router through straight lines for that long is NO FUN. Glue-ups and finishing are fun though, no clue why you'd like to give that away.
  3. Two great examples of CNC woodworking

    Work in front of a computer too, although it's a fairly different type of task, it is a bit boring to sit down again and design a part/toolpath. The same is true for designing your projects in sketchup or other software. Both are necessary sometimes.
  4. Two great examples of CNC woodworking

    No! You can't not like CNC! Seriously though, I think combining master craftsmen with precision technology is awesome! I don't think they need to actually cut a dovetail, or profile a curve, to feel the design is theirs anymore. Us newbies get that feeling of accomplishment with our first few manual M&Ts, but everyone's looking for a domino after a while. Master craftsmen today probably see CNC machines as those of yore saw apprentices. They can be good at manual work, but they need to be told exactly what to do. An apprentice being part of the production process never reduced the value of the pieces produced by a master craftsman. That's how I like to see it, at least.
  5. DIY cheap CNC - Test cut successful!

    Well, finally! First cuts are here. I pushed the acceleration a bit and kept the rapid speed. Rapid speed 4000mm/m Acceleration (grbl-no curve) 50mm/s/s Feed 2500mm/m (100ipm) 1/8 flat endmill - 12000 rpm - 2mm per pass - 2mm stepover adaptive mode + helix entry And a couple shots The good: 2 pockets 5mm deep in around 6 minutes. Fast enough considering the type of operation. No dust! Shavings is what I expected. Which translates to... No overheating! Bit was cold right after it was done Flat bottom = tramming is accurate! (thanks wixey angle gauge!) No vibration or deflection, no steps skipped and steppers barely at room temp = nema 17s are surprisingly good enough for this Difference in diameter from the f360 model to the actual pice= 0.4mm. Difference in diameter from X to Y direction = under 0.1mm Spindle is crazy quiet The bad: when fully accelerated, it vibrates a little at the bit, meaning it's almost exceeding the chip load so... the spindle's 12k rpm limit proved to be the limiting factor for the build, at least with 1/8 bits. I'll test 1/4 bits later where the limiting factor will likely be the spindle's own torque (.8 hp isn't very strong) no mounting setup yet ghetto cables! waiting for my cheapo drag chains need dust collection! The ugly: bed isn't flat... though at least i know it won't bend anymore due to the construction need to add a waste board with mounting options... and then flatten it. It will take a while forgot to grease the rails and lead screws before running it (do-oh!) So there it is! If you can think of something I can do to make the build better, or if you think the feeds/cutting strategy/tool paths have something wrong, do tell! I'm pretty lost, especially in the CAM side of things.
  6. DIY cheap CNC - Test cut successful!

    How so?
  7. Cutting vs. Bending

    There's usually quite a bit of waste for curved cuts. Some would be outright impossible unless you have extremely wide boards. Steam bending keeps the grain direction and strength along the whole piece. If you find a piece that has a bow and is already stable, you saved yourself quite a bit of work. For shape stability, bent laminations would probably hold up better.
  8. DIY cheap CNC - Test cut successful!

    Thanks! I'll try to give it a spin this weekend. Popcorn noise is actually water falling on the garage roof, from a leaky gutter on the balcony after a storm. Most houses here have metal roofing so it's like a giant drum some times.
  9. DIY cheap CNC - Test cut successful!

    So! I'm finally reaching the end (of the beginning) of the project! I've cut, sanded, painted, adjusted, assembled, adjusted, adjusted, fixed, adjusted, aligned, aligned and aligned, and wired mostly everything... and it moves! Do take into consideration I'm a newbie at this (too) and this is my first CNC of any type, so any advice is most welcome. Now, this is a fairly simple, cheap build in essence, but I've tried to maximize the leverage of the steppers and rely on torsion boxes everywhere to make it as rigid as possible. Let's start with a list of the components/prices etc: 4x nema 17 87oz/in - cheapish at around $16 each with bracket and coupler and around $25 for a 24v PSU 4x 1000mm thinnest supported rails available - chopped 2 into 700mm and 300mm pieces to cover the 3 axis - $120 total lucky find including 8 bearings, bought 4 more for $15 4x threaded rod (1000mm/1000mm/700mm/300mm) - T8?, 8mm thick, 8mm per rotation (agree on the anti-backlash nut... i definitely need those) - don't quite remember but around $65 500w chinesium spindle w/supply $120 Random 1/8 bits around $50 total (straight single and 2 flute, ball nose, tapered, engraving pointy bits, etc) and 1/4 bits from my old router will have to do for now. I'll get some decent ones once i figure out what I'll use the most. Grbl controller and DRV8825 drivers - around $25 Some pink ply - $35 So... around $450 And a few (expected) features: Rigid as possible on the cheap - torsion box bed and gantry, quasi torsion box for the sides (preferred this over making a tall gantry and it proved to be quite rigid) 2'x3' cutting area - didn't quite make it but it was pretty close - should be enough for anything worth cutting with a small spindle Upgradeable - Z should be able to support a 2.2kw chinese spindle, there's enough room and support for proper ball screws and nema 23 steppers if needed, PSU would handle the bigger drivers required Not quite so ugly! - I know it's no beauty queen, but matte black, shiny rails and straight lines looks better than ply edges or flat mdf to my eyes 6000 mm/m rapid rate - that's around the max theoretical rpm of the steppers without losing torque - I've tested up to 4000 no problem, but found out the acceleration is way more important so I'll push that next. Gotta re-read those technical sheets of the steppers Designed so the spindle comes forward beyond the end of the bed, I plan on adding a tilting platform for joinery cuts and vertical pieces Anyway... this past weekend i got it to move. Not sure how fast I should push it but it moved uncompromised for 30 minutes without overheating (steppers still cold, not maxing the amps on the drivers yet) at around 4000mm/m and trying to stop it manually with quite a bit of pressure didn't cause deflection or skipping. I would REALLY appreciate any ideas on speed and acceleration settings/tests for my setup, but otherwise I'll keep pushing it slowly. It hasn't touched wood but I'm quite optimistic it will be up to the task coming this weekend. I really didn't trust a single nema17 to carry all that load. I have no detectable play except for backlash on the lead screws, I'll credit the linear bearings and the rigidity of the torsion box at the bed, sides and gantry for that. I cant bend the parts even a little using my full weight (ok, just 160lbs, but still) I can only hope that translates into better feed rates and/or cleaner cuts. I'll add some pics of the build process. I added the "dividers" forming the core's grid later on to ensure they were pressure-fit. Too many dog supervisors... as usual Yeah, no dedicated space means assembling on top of your table saw as the only flat surface around. Glamour shot of el cheapo lead screws Finally - mostly assembled And a couple videos cause I know people like to see it shake it! I definitely have to increase the acceleration (and maybe the speed too, although max speed is never reached in the smiley test) and dampen the motors. There are some ugly harmonics making the leadscrews bounce up and down at low speeds, fortunately, that moves the spindle less than I could measure properly with a dial indicator There's some misalignment in the X leadscrew that the couple is managing but I'd like to fix as well. I think the whole thing is rigid enough to upgrade the spindle and maybe even the steppers later on. Now THAT would be fun! Let me know what you think! again, if you see anything here that might give me trouble along the way (although I'm quite into this build already), do tell! Same if you have any suggestions or any requests for something you'd like to see. Cheers!
  10. Best router table for the money

    SNL Reference? To answer the question, best for the money probably the Bosch with the cabinet option at $130. Not AMAZING but anything better is around 3 times as much $, and probably not 3 times better. And cheaper options are pretty much worthless. I personally don't think lifts are that great, probably because my router does have over the table adjustments. The only other option is to buy the plate and make an awesome table imo.
  11. Cheap Router Bits?

    They aren't nearly cheap enough for what they are. Compare to the cheapest on Amazon cause that's most likely what you're getting. My take on router bits: find the most respectable cheapos, buy a varied pack of cheapos, touch up to make sure they're sharp. In my case i found the Yonico ones from Amazon to be fairly reasonable, especially for the price (a bit pricier than the absolute cheapest). Use them for a while, so you'll know which bits you need the most. Buy higher end bits of the ones you use the most. So far I have a 1/8 roundover and a 3/4" straight spiral bit on the higher end, though the cheapos are still functional if either one breaks in the middle of a job.
  12. Computers in the shop -- Dust protection?

    Cover the intake fans with a dust filter, clean periodically with compressed air. That should do.
  13. New machine build - FLA Saturn 2 4 x 4

    Yes, you can, and that's a great idea!
  14. Shaper cutter heads.....

    Given that the cutter head will be worth more than the machine, and assuming you need a shaper in the near future, you can get one, try it on, if it doesn't work, you'll find a new shaper on CL soon enough. I don't think the comparison to a router in the slowest speed is the most accurate representation. Now, I don't know this particular shaper, but there are a few things to consider: - shapers are usually rated by their continuous/RMS power output vs routers at their maximum hp - a shaper delivers its full torque at a low speed, a router at 8k rpm is delivering around a third of its continuous power (which is already way lower than peak) due to the variable speed controller - bigger cutter heads have higher rim speed - a small roundover bit is unlikely to work great in the speed range of the average shaper (5000 - 10000?) , you'd have to reduce the feed rate considerably. - I would try to use the smallest available raised panel bits if you have them before buying a cutter head If you're not sure if you need a shaper, and if you'd get one if this one didn't make the cut, then getting the cutter head could be quite a bit of a risk.
  15. My first project.

    Well, that was a fun read. Welcome to woodworking, Jim. That's also how I've learned, by messing things up just enough. And that's also how most of us go about acquiring tools, every new tool looks like a need when you have a project for it. I have, however, avoided pocket screws and anything "rustic", I just don't like them. To be fair, the desk isn't bad. You wanted a desk that would work as a desk, and it does, you wanted a rustic look and you got it. Your standards just changed too quickly as you learned more Oh man, you'll feel right at home in this forum. No worries, you'll make more, and consequently learn to cover them better. Spray paints love a base coat and sanding in between coats, especially when used on wood. Had this happen to me last week, never used spray paint on wood before so yeah... +1 paint experience.