• Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by kyokahn

  1. It's in the same family as Mexican Kalatox so I'd expect similar difficulties. Interlocked grain, high density and dulling your tools. I does turn out shiny on its own though.
  2. It's either that, or a ridiculous amount of polishing to keep that transparency.
  3. It's very unusual for a dry, stable 2-1/2" slab to cup that much. It was either dried incorrectly, not dry enough, or never allowed to stabilize at ambient MC, or has the tree's pith right down the middle. Allowing movement and preventing cupping is something your bases can do to an extent, but if I'm assuming correctly, even if you deal with cupping, the slab will try to twist, or warp, and if you handle that it will crack. This works for wood that wasn't dried properly and had internal stress. I'm guessing not so much for wood that wasn't dried enough, as that one would cup backwards instead. If it has the pith, well... you have to remove it. if possible, a V cut from the bottom that doesn't cut the top can be filled with epoxy to replace the pith without affecting the top appearance. Not the most elegant but could work. if it's not dry enough, you'd have to sticker it under some weight and let it rest until it's ready to be used. If the screws are stripping the wood or snapping, the base is not the problem. The base would be the problem if it bent or broke trying to hold down the top, or if it didn't allow for expansion/contraction, other than that, it's all about the wood.
  4. Teak and Ipe will be absolutely fine in those conditions as long as no part of them holds the water that falls on them. As long as it sides down and dries occasionally, you're safe. As for finish, you just need it to be flexible, so marine varnish is probably best, or you could go for oils and other finishes you can just reapply as they wear out.
  5. You may have had trouble filling that gap, but your brushing technique is on point.
  6. Actually I've carried stuff much like David's pic of his mini with the exotic lumber. And sheet goods get cut in half and loaded on the back seat. Never had issues with the extra weight, even on very steep roads. Worth mentioning, new spark is 1400cc/4cyl/98hp vs 900cc on the old one, which did give me trouble The Fiat Strada is an actual production car, has been around for a few years already. The 3 door thing makes it look like a concept though but it seems to work. The RAM 700 is just a rebrand of the same car for some markets.
  7. I've been considering a truck shaped car lately. Not even kidding, a Fiat Strada /Dodge RAM 700. Up to now, I carry lumber in and/or on (or even through) a chevy spark.
  8. As someone for whom English is a second language, these differences aren't only very noticeable but also extremely confusing when you're trying to learn. In my case, I end up using pronunciations interchangeably as neither are actually natural to me, and they would all sound "just slightly off" to you guys. You'd have a good time picking at my accent Not your Miami Hispanic accent or Sofia Vergara but just enough to tick off some native English speakers. Don't get me started on using British spelling when writing to Americans On topic: I don't like April's videos all that much, but I can definitely see how it's beneficial for toolmakers to have sponsorship deals with her.
  9. You can use additional coats of finish as sealer, making a slurry with it should work: Do note the article says "natural oil and thinner" but it is actually Danish oil, which has varnish in it. Your only other option would be to strip all your finish and start with a sealer.
  10. I really want one of those nice 14" like the Laguna or Jet or even the Rikon, mostly because of the resawing capacity... but all I have is a small Wen for now at least, it has served me well for the past 10 months or so. I think we've moved away from the original question quite a bit, but here's my take on it: I wouldn't pay over $100 for a jigsaw because it's not meant to do precision work, but I agree the cheapest ones are unpleasant to use. I picked up a used Dewalt (the one with circular motion and a dust blower) at some point and even having a small bandsaw, I have barely touched the jigsaw. I would tell you not to go for the 9" though, it's far too small, particularly not being able to use a 1/2" blade is troublesome. I have the 10" Wen, I've resawn 5" hardwood a couple times (slowly, but fairly accurately) with a 1/2" woodslicer blade, and cut close curves on 4" of wood with a 3/16" blade. Tension is more than enough. Get rid of or modify the fence if you do get that one though, I use a short tall fence (6" tall, only as long as the distance from the front of the table to the blade). Also, don't pay over $200 for it, it usually goes for $180 new but sometimes you'll see it for $250, especially at Amazon. If you can save some more, or you do enough work to need faster cuts and easier setup, go for a 14", even a used one should do.
  11. I really don't think you wouldn't recognize the smell of Spanish cedar. Mahogany smells like... wood. Spanish cedar smells a lot like cedar (even if it's not). Pretty much the smell of some sort of car air freshener.
  12. It shouldn't be that hard, you have lazada after all, and can probably find it even cheaper in the markets, but here: and even the beeswax Ph is a huge market, if there really wasn't something like mineral oil, I'd recommend you open a business to sell it
  13. Thanks everyone! Big words, I'm flattered Thank you, not yet. I'm waiting for a block of copper to make a small branding iron add-on for my woodburning pen, if it doesn't work, I'll just use the fine tip and go at it. That's a 2 part poly "sanding sealer". Its purpose is to build up quickly to flatten a surface, dries in 30m and it's super easy to sand flat while it hasn't cured completely. It also helps the poly top coat's adhesion because it hardens slower. I don't like it for straight grain, unfigured wood, because you want to keep some texture there, but texture would be overwhelming with figure and different patterns so it seemed fitting for this one.
  14. Well... Between work, MORE WORK, studies and messing things up more than a couple times, I found myself working on this over a longer period than I expected. You know how it is, life and inexperience have a way of getting in the way. Not even accounting for procrastination here. So, first things first, a short story of how I messed up: I trusted a too thin piece of pine to help me drill dowel holes straight, and I didn't let the pieces rest after the initial cuts and milling. Everything seemed fine while it was clamped and each pair of legs during the dry fit were relatively straight, but here's the catch: I didn't dry fit the end aprons, dowel holes were off by 1, 3, 1 and 1 degree in exactly opposite directions across the table. Sure, the good clamps held it down, but when released it resulted in a rocking table, with the legs across front and back being 1/4 closer on one side and 1/4 farther apart on the other. Frustrated, I left it on top of the table saw for a couple days to evaluate how I'd fix it. To add insult to injury, when I came back to it, the side apron had twisted up and out. Maybe the pressure from the clamps vs the dowels, maybe I selectively forgot just how gnarly Surá wood is. Solution: Change the strategy! I decided to go with loose tenons instead, learning how to make them on the go, of course. But first, I had to undo my mess, and power tools wouldn't cut it (pun partially intended). In my vast arsenal of refined hand tools, I found the perfect one for this task (NOT). A hand saw that came free when a contractor working on my garage had to buy a long magnetic level. To put it simply: a Ryoba immediately went up a few hundred slots to the top of my buy list. But it worked, eventually, and I detached the legs from the aprons and then refined the cut with the table saw and a sanding block. I then re-dressed the aprons back to straight and since I had to go back, why not improve on the design a little? The legs looked a little bulky so I added a taper on the inner side of each leg for a more pronounced angle. Can I call it intentional now? I did let the pieces rest a little this time... probably more than a week. They didn't twist the tiniest bit this time. Here's a look into the router-cut mortises and the very-much-still-there dowels. I realize I lost about 1/2" length on each and probably some strength as well, but I decided I'd test that later. Notice how the bottom crosses slightly with the perpendicular mortise, I had to basically miter-join the loose tenons inside. Speaking of which, here's a pic of the loose tenons before cutting them, after roughing them up with a file: These were cut on the TS and then rounded on the router table with a matching bull nose bit, and here's how they fit: Sweet burning smell right there, I was a bit careless cutting those on the sled. This was a dry-fit test before giving them a 45 degree angle in the corners for them to match. But it worked! the angles were correct and the cuts straight, so I proceeded to assembly: I tested its strength by sitting across the side aprons, and lying down across the end aprons (sorry, no pics of the shop acrobatics). No rocking or creaking, I figured it's strong enough for a coffee table. The pieces on top of the apron aren't glued up just yet, but I'd use them later on to make sure I connect them to the table top in the right position related to the legs once I got that done. So that's what's next, the gooey stuff. So as I mentioned before, I was having issues with the resin hardener and the dyes. After testing many dyes and changing the hardener (lucky find of a supplier for resin hardeners), I got the process down and started working on the actual table top: First and second layers: light blue metallic powder: Then a layer of blue and a 2 of clear that actually shows depth: It looks cute, but of course, it never ends up flat with the wood (surface tension and all that), so it's time to mess it up with a clunky belt sander until it's flat! Then we have to square it up and rough sand it (80), don't worry about the mild tearout, I'll chamfer the borders: And here it is after adding the base that attaches the top to the legs and some filing to round these things over: The part of the wood closer to the middle is glued, the blocks are glued and screwed, the outer side is held by the blocks. This allows for barely 1/4 of movement, but with each piece of wood being around 8" wide, it should do well unless I decide to keep it stored in a water tank. I chamfered all the edges before final sanding, then sanded all the way to 180 grit: Time for the sealer. Another moment that gives the illusion of being close to the finish line but not quite. You see, this sanding sealer, while fresh, looks like finish, but it doesn't flatten out, and looks inconsistent until you sand it. Basically, it just fills, but in some of these pics I let myself go crazy while it was fresh. Bottom first! That bottom layer got curly while drying, happy it doesn't show from the top. Legs and aprons: First coat(out of 3) on the top before final assembly: It dried up, with disappointing results, so I sanded the first coat of sealer, assembled the base of the top to the end aprons and applied the second coat. Note the surface is still not "flawless": Oh my, that looked almost finished... until it dried. Then sanded down everything and applied the final coat of sealer only on the top. Shop light sure brings out all of the crazy grain patterns: Past the illusion of being done, next day I sanded for the last time before applying finish, all the way down to 320. Now THAT looks right! For finish, my plan was to use satin poly, sanding a little between wiped-on coats, but apparently, having a non-absorbent base makes it harder to get a perfect coat, and I was constantly fighting bubbles or the tiniest particles of dust, even in a closed area where I let it set before even touching the finish. And as I removed the bubbles/dust particles by sanding between coats, I invariably ended up chewing away the previous coat. This set me back at least a week and a half. The solution: a thicker, flatter coat. I grabbed the paint gun (Tacklife's version of an "HVLP" turbine) and sprayed the first coat, then sanded to 400. Very little bubbles or dust when using that thing, it was MUCH better than I expected. Then a second one and sanded to 600 after letting cure for a couple days: Waited 1 week, then polished a little focusing on the epoxy parts: This is not the final final finish, as I need to wait a couple more weeks before applying satin wax, but it's close enough and it's ready to be used, maybe this is a better view of the "just done" table: And at this point I though: "well that was a lot of work, I want a few glamour shots to show it off". So I told a friend who actually has a decent camera to help me out. He liked the table a bit too much and decided to take it out for a date at the park: The grain and figure shine very differently depending on where the light hits it, it's really an atypical piece of wood on that top, and I like to think I made it so that the metallic shine in the middle follows. So there you have it, folks! It was quite an adventure and I learned much more than I bargained for. What do you guys think? As for me, I will be using it until I land on a design idea for a more utilitarian coffee table that looks just right, and then, I'm confident enough someone else will like it enough to keep it for a while longer.
  15. Reversal it is then! I took your advice and used a scraper after finding out the belt sander still left tearout, it worked like a charm. Thank you both! I had to do more than a few tests before finding a dye that didn't change color or entirely disappeared while curing, but I had to use both for the effect I wanted, and clear epoxy from the middle to the surface. Also changed the type of hardener. It did harden properly.
  16. I don't think it adds anything to go with a dado on both as long as it fits tight. Not much shallower if you use a white led strip behind thin acrylic
  17. I usually prefer the night stands to have the surface just a bit taller than the mattress, but these look great. Your design looks and reads great so no problem there. I'd match the wood to the bed, and use contrasting splines, as the design is a bit too "modern" for proud joinery and the box would be holding most of the load in all directions. Miter key would work too. I noticed there's no cutout in the original design, while in yours the shelves contact the box only on the outside, any particular reason for this? seems to me like the joinery should be the same, acrylic or not, but I like the lights.
  18. That's what I was going to suggest. It works, mostly, but be careful with the settings, climb will give you more backlash/chatter but lets you run higher RPMs/Feeds and is easier on the machine, so I'm guessing the compensation settings would be different for conventional. That's good to know, good luck with the next test cuts
  19. - Have you tested the machine for backlash? - Was this problem happening before? - Have you calibrated the steps per mm with accurate measuring tools? - Can you test again the same cuts but comparing conventional to climb milling? - Have you checked tramming and squaring? (these rarely affect dimensions, but might help)
  20. While that's some hard wood, it's not the hardest hardwood. It's definitely not normal for wood to chew through carbide so quickly. suggestions: - Do shallower passes moving faster to minimize heat - Clean the bits as frequently as you can, and definitely as soon as you notice there's buildup you can't remove with your fingernails - Don't bother with diamond bits for wood, they'll just overheat and the bonding will fall off. Keep the carbide. The carvings are looking great! Same here
  21. Mirka gold, precisely, Amazon had it on sale (packs of 50 for $17 if I remember correctly) some 6months ago and I ordered a bunch of them. I just ordered an Abranet assortment pack (35 total for $28) and a couple backer pads (so I don't chew through the hooks) yesterday, looks promising with the sander hooked to a vacuum. Any other pointers using the Abranet? How has it worked for you? Nothing like fabric-backed sandpaper rolls for hand sanding imo.
  22. Well, I normally use Mirka and I've found it to be on a whole different level than the hardware store, dewalt or Norton. Haven't tried klinspor, has anyone tried both?
  23. We're on the same page, just differ in the origin of that bad practice. My take on it is that most people need to buy temporary furniture in the beginning, but many never understand you're not supposed to do that your whole life under most circumstances. Where's my facepalm emoji...