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Everything posted by kyokahn

  1. Not necessarily, there are many reasons for it. Upfront money is hard to come by while trying to establish a career nowadays, and with home ownership going down and employment relocations going up, moving is much more frequent and furniture won't look the same everywhere. Once you settle a bit more it's easier to buy for the long term, problem is some get used to "that's not what a table costs, why should I pay that much if IKEA sells for $100?" kinda thing. BTW, financial planning/responsibility/education is lacking everywhere, not particularly the US.
  2. I'm actually guessing the buyer expects that ting to warp and twist. Dude might be disappointed if it's perfect. The original one in the pic is already misaligned to the point it's almost unusable for anything that needs to remain balanced with a base over 4". - buy "legs" - buy cheapwood - make cheapwood picadillo - glue it all together at once, let dry - sand only to the point where everything look barely sanded - spray lacquer or water poly carelessly applied, better if it pools in the corners - do not sign that thing, and if the guy tags you on social media with pictures, report the post or close your accounts - ??? - profit Seriously though, I wouldn't worry too much about it. Many people (especially younger ones) seem to be ok with buying cheap furniture 10 times instead of good furniture once. It'll take them a while to get it, so you might as well turn a quick buck in the meantime.
  3. A 4512 and a drill? man! you're all set up for a good start! Just make sure you understand table saw safety before you start working with it. Really, I have that saw and I couldn't think of anything better for its cost. A drill alone gives you a few options for joints: dowels, screws, pocket screws, screws + plugs, forstner + holesaw, etc. While the tablesaw has dadoes, half laps, tenons, box joint and more as you add jigs. That looks about as much space as I have right now to keep all of my stuff, though at least I have some space to roll them out.
  4. You'd probably need that sled unless you get a huge jointer. The more motivation to make one. There another sled you can use to joint the edges on the TS, and the same sled can also help you cut tapers on the TS, so there's no reason to skip it either, especially if you have a lunchbox planer and no jointer like me
  5. He skipped leg day. Bros don't let bros skip leg day.
  6. You could just buy a replacement riving knife for $11 and use a grinder to thin it down, keeping the original around. Or contact these guys but I doubt you'd be any luckier considering it's in the manual. Or... Buy a thin kerf riving knife from sharkguard for about $40. , seems pretty reasonable to me.
  7. Countertop resin. Harder than the one made for thick pours and more UV resistance, at least better than the one I could find. I think you're right, it wasn't only that it was too thick. Pigments are not working as planned at all, in the 2nd test I've had no exotherm but one batch of blue became purple, so I wouldn't discard its chemistry playing with the catalyzer. That makes sense! I'll give it a shot. Might have to add a temporary slope but I like the idea. It's slow-ish cure but made for thin layers (1/4" or so). Bottom layer is a purpose made resin metallic pigment for countertops. When it bubbled up, everything cured immediately, the top is a big bubble, the bottom is tiny bubbles Did this for the second test, hope it works! I tested a smaller batch and it worked perfectly. A larger batch turned purple as I poured it. So I'm guessing the carrier is compatible, but the pigment itself not so much. I didn't use the gel dye at all on the first test, that deep blue you see came from a powder dye, alcohol soluble, that only shows up when the resin overheats apparently (didn't add any color on the second layer of the second test) So I've got the timings and layer height figured out, the problem now is the dye cause the ones I have either turn purple or disappear entirely when the hardener is added. No reliable supplier of epoxy dyes around here, I'm thinking either india ink, or ink straight from a Bic ball pen as the next test subjects.
  8. So here's the first test with the leftover material First layer went on just fine But then.... Second layer too thick, so it bubbled up. Here's a look at the back where I was also testing the sealers So I set a second test with a 1x2 piece of laurel I had leftover from another project and some more ugly melamine First layer on, and that's it for now
  9. That's why I don't want to go too realistic here. If it's the river with the alligators, I'd have to make miniatures of trash bags, empty bottles and I wouldn't want to say why the river is a muddy brown color. Going for furniture, not a political/environmental statement! I wanted it as narrow as possible, but the material is only so wide and I needed a certain size, so it will be an average of 4" wide. The bottom is supposed to be translucent with just enough of a metallic swirl to make it somewhat interesting, the upper layers will be blue translucent. Hoping I can make it clear enough, I'm doing a few tests with the resin and I have my first failure (runaway exothermic mess). I'll post some pics later. I must say I'm doing better regarding tools and supplies, and thank you! Finding suppliers is a bit of a scavenger hunt but after finding a few and better ways to import from the US, it's not that bad. Even PMT makes sense after a while Thank you! And I agree with you. Also fun fact, Andiroba's name in Spanish (at least locally) is the (somewhat despective) casual diminutive of the word for Mahogany. Caoba // Caobilla. The workability is similar, as is the grain, the color is slightly more yellow and the stability isn't bad. It's just not as durable. Funny enough, Spanish cedar is more related to mahogany than this is. That would be fun for a beach terrace, but probably not so much for a small apartment living room That's interesting, I'll see how a mirror looks under the table, especially if it's not translucent enough to see through, might help the effect somehow.
  10. *fair warning: if you find overly wordy posts particularly boring/annoying, scroll til you see a picture* I know most people around here don't appreciate the artful craftsmanship of contemporary rustic furniture... kidding! I really don't like the plague of sloppy "furniture" passed as "rustic" nowadays either, and I still feel it's an unusual consequence of the economy. However, I don't believe all river tables belong in the same category as pallet salvaging benches, crate nail-together shelves and and HD 2x4 twisted knotty pine farmhouse tables. There is a caveat though, most makers of these tables make a real effort to bunch them together with that trendy bunch, mostly by adding whatever's at hand as legs, not thinking of wood movement at all or just just poor fit and finish. So I totally get the criticism, but I'll live with it and give in to my millennial nature by giving it a shot. Now, as you may know, I'm no master craftsman, barely a novice and possibly on the wrong side of the Dunning-Kruger chart for thinking I can do better than that. We'll see how it goes!. Anyway, the coffee table I got for my first apartment has sustained over 10 years of abuse and the torture of moving, and it was ugly and poorly made to start with. I was thinking of utilitarian designs but couldn't come up with anything "good enough" for a while. About a year ago, I saw an beat up plank at the lumber yard, thinking it'd be an interesting challenge to make something out of it, the seller wouldn't dare charging me for the price of more than 2 PMT (~2.2 bf), as it was cracked after the first 30 inches of length, it was rough and live edge on one side and sapwood on both. Funny enough, looking at the only picture I have of it, only the "good part" (but still with an ugly knott i cut off) of it shows, and the wood I'm using for the legs covers the rest as I bought it the same day. So here they are in the middle of the pic, for the top, Andiroba (BS name: Royal Mahogany), and for the legs, Sura wood (BS name: dragonwood): Here's some progress I've made over a couple weekends: As I mentioned I chopped off a bit of it and most of the rest was split in half, so I crosscut the remains in half, leaving me with a half cracked piece and the other one totally split in half, so I jointed some of it on the router and glued up both sides until the part where the crack bowed, then flattened with a planer jig, that beautiful grain screamed back at me with some tearout due to interlocking (assuming that's what it's called): The joint looks credible enough to me, hopefully even better once it's sanded properly. Of course, the cracks will try to rebel over time, so they need to be tamed somehow, a few butterflies should help here, so I decided to give the Dutchman a shot with the same wood as the legs : *don't notice the rubber mallet, I'll make a proper one some day* *definitely not a supermarket chisel* If you notice the clean bottom it's because I tried to make it with the CNC, somehow it came out way undersized (probably measured the bow ties wrong), and since even if it was perfect I'd have to clean up the corners, I decided to chop the rest. I was off by a bit on that last one so it's a little gappy, notice that bigger one is barely two inches wide though, but I'll try to make it look presentable before finish. And then the legs, which is where I'll try to make it a bit different than usual for its kind, not much to say, angular, floating top and still need refinement. But first: mill fest! Adding angles with a jig on the crosscut sled: Cutting slots to allow the top to slide with the seasons: Dry assembly (6x 1/4x1-1/2 dowels, purpose made "jig" if you can call a stick with holes and a slot that): Now I don't know exactly how strong that is, but I sat on each of the dry fit assemblies with just 3 dowels in them and it held just fine. Then removed all the dowels, glued up, made a few angled things to clamp straight (these have a name I can't remember) and clamped them tight: And that's as much as I've done until now. That and testing the finish on the cutoff, 2 part poly sanding sealer until it's smooth to the touch without visible buildup, and then a couple coats of wipe on poly (which I have yet to do). Now it's time for questions and feedback! To those of you design-oriented folks out there: any suggestions? especially on the legs? I'm planning on giving them a slight taper on the inside as I feel they could look more stylized, but trying to avoid curves to prevent visual clutter, is that right? Also, same color resin for the cracks and the middle "river"? Anyone who's made one of these things, I'm thinking of using a slight metallic swirl translucent (no glitter) dye, but just on the very bottom 1/4" deep of the resin pool, and the rest a plain translucent blue, is that even possible? furthermore, would this make it more or less tasteless? Now again, I know this isn't the preferred type of project around these parts, but if someone knows how to make it look more "design" and less "rustic", I wouldn't expect to find them anywhere else, so any and all feedback is welcome. This is my first table too and I haven't made chairs or beds or anything like that, so whatever it is, I'm excited things are going somewhat close to the plan. Thanks for reading!
  11. Absolutely agree. I meant hard wood, not hardwood so yeah, say anything over janka 2000lbs is unlikely to look nice with less than 200 grit, the scratches are just too visible, and I guess it doesn't help most of those woods are a darker shade.
  12. You're about to lose the woodworker card. Mine never arrived cause it thought of making a river table. Seriously though, you can't get away with 180 grit on very hard woods with oil finishes. Pine though, you can sand with 100 and it won't make too much of a difference.
  13. I'd say get a $50 airless sprayer and the cheapest latex paint you can find. Those things output a good quarter gallon of paint per minute or more. Feeling good in the shop is important, especially when a piece is giving you trouble. White walls (and ceiling if possible) will also reduce your lighting costs as you'd need less lumen output for comfortable visibility in every corner of the shop. If you don't do it now, it will probably never happen.
  14. Try humanities, business and liberal arts other than natural sciences... There is a severe shortage of professionals in engineering, as well as in the trades and education.
  15. Probably not, but maybe she is.
  16. Where do you say that auction's taking place?
  17. The guys said at the beginning they'd be using the same blade on all saws for the test, but the Bosch footage where dust flies all over the place shows a different blade. Not saying dust collection is any good, just found that strange.
  18. - Grab a piece of wood and this or similar - Chop or route some space for the magnets, it doesn't have to be pretty at all - screw magnets to piece of wood - cover with veneer My main issue with your approach is that veneer can't be trusted to have any strength at all, and it might break just holding the magnets in place when you remove a knife.
  19. quick sketch - possibly the weirdest possible implementation, but might give you an idea. Friction should be more than enough, but any flat areas of the lever would have more hold.
  20. Ideally, level the van. If you must level the bed, I see two possible options that require no wrench: - Vertical cam levers under the bed, with a knob to fix them in position - wedges, each leg with a wedge shape cut off at the bottom, mounted on a rail. Then another wedge that slides over that rail, under the leg. no need for locking mechanism as long as the wedges run from the center of the bed towards the corners.
  21. It's tearout-y, more than splintery.
  22. Everything over 3000lbs janka will be splintery, fibers are stronger than the bond between them. But if you can get cumaru/almendro (often sold for decking/flooring as well), it's a little less splintery than ipe.
  23. I already like them, not settling for the easy and all that. Will you be posting the end result?