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Everything posted by kyokahn

  1. Oh... that's just AWESOME! Now it's just about figuring out how to make it, make it tilt and hold its position securely. wow that's a $20k machine. For reference, I've spent around $500 on the parts, if I can find a cheap and functional way to add this functionality I'll be very, very happy.
  2. Don't know iroko, teak would probably be fine and hold its looks for longer, but it's not as tough as ipe. You could probably find ipe from a flooring dealer
  3. As I've mentioned before, I'm about to start building my own CNC machine. I was thinking of ways to add versatility without adding an extra axis. I've seen jigs and holders and creative wasteboards, but here's something I haven't seen: a vise for vertical pieces. There are limitations, especially for woodworking, when you can only place the blanks flat on the bed of your machine, so here's what I'm thinking (please excuse the poor MSPaint, no tinkercad/sketchup/360 at work): I'm planning a torsion box construction for the bed and the sides that hold two rails, and from my calculations, that notch in there shouldn't cause a big loss in rigidity. Let me know what you think, or if you have any other suggestions. I need ideas! Edit: ignore the vise type in the drawing, ideally, it would be a smaller moxon with only screws on the sides, or just use hold "down" clamps, horizontally.
  4. He's especially lucky you know he's a tool snob, so he's getting a good one out of this! You've done your research on this, I would go for an open one too. Only in a large production shop where a drum sander is indispensable and running on tight deadlines, in my opinion. In the space I have, I couldn't possible have more than 1. Again good research. I haven't used PM or Jet. I've used a friend's Supermax 19-38 and it's a great machine. General consensus is that it's more than enough for more people. There's a smaller 16-32 if there's a tighter budget or not enough space in his shop.
  5. Considering a CNC within my means and level of expertise (low budget and beginner), it's not surprising I'd start with using a 10% of its capacity. There are many things that can be done in the CNC almost entirely, but most of them I haven't figured out or consider it worth the effort doing it by hand or traditional tools. Some other cases it's the other way around, where you need very specialized tools and tons of experience to produce what a cheap CNC can carve out in minutes. We'll see how it goes, but I can already tell you'll be able to contribute a lot in the CNC section of the forum. I'm just about to start building my own machine.
  6. kyokahn

    Big is better?

    Well i think that's the main difference, as the area grows, you need to add stronger steppers, more rigidity, longer leadscrews and stronger rails. Rails and leadscrews aren't that cheap either, longer axis means more $ for them, and in smaller machines you can work with an Arduino+shield+nema17 so you end up saving a lot on stepper drivers and motors. In my case, I just bought most of the parts as I calculated I would need. The largest cutting area I can get is 2' x 3', keeping a reasonable speed and torque, while using nema17. Absolutely right on the available space though, we just need to maximize whatever components we can get our hands on through the design of the machine.
  7. Wow that's a beast! With nema34 and fully supported rails you could probably cut steel on that thing without a hiccup (given a bigger spindle). Congrats on your new machine!
  8. That's how I read your initial comment, hence my dismissively broad reply. Some people took it way too seriously. This! most of the time, the CNC will just take care of making a small part of the project, decorate a drawer front, make some oddly shaped drawer pulls you want 10 of but would be a pain to match to each other by hand, inlay and marquetry for those who aren't specialists in it, engraving messages/logos on finished projects. Just a part of a much bigger workflow. I do get that weird feeling when I see those Biesse Rover $200k + machines make a whole set of standard cabinets in full auto mode, it makes woodworking an overly industrialized and robotic process when all you have to do i prepare the stock and apply finish. But really, that's not what we're talking about here (Edit: mostly, some people will probably bring in full automation to the table).
  9. Card scraper + follow the grain. Especially if you didn't leave a lot of material for refinements.
  10. if you make it with wood, or use it on wood it definitely is. You can call it a router shaping jig if that makes you more comfortable. I'm definitely in for this. Currently building one of my own as well.
  11. AKA bentwood rings. I've made a few of those, definitely takes a bit more practice to wrap your mind around the process (pun shamelessly intended) and prevent gaps, but they're nearly indestructible. A couple of them have been worn daily for about a year and barely a scratch. The good thing about them is you can use any leftover veneer to make them, or use your hand plane shavings.
  12. You can frame it, but not with a traditional mitered frame. Let's say you want it to look like it has a walnut frame, just add 2 walnut boards to the sides of the oak, and a walnut breadboard. Looks like a frame, but acts as a structural support that won't be damaged by wood movement.
  13. That would be cool. I'm in the process of making a 2' x 3' myself, from scratch. The info is scattered and often contradictory. Going with 8mm lead leadscrews and the higher torque nema 17s (2 on the y axis), simple cnc shield setup. Hopefully I'll be able to produce some quality work with it.
  14. Agree on the drum sander. The carousel clamp seems extremely inefficient to me, at least how it's being used there.
  15. Yeah, couple years ago they started sending them out with a completely new trunion. The fences seemed more like an issue of QA rather than design, mine came within 1/16 front to back and fairly easy to adjust. Craftsman and another local brand picked up the same saw and stopped selling them before the issues were fixed.
  16. I would say: Absolutely! People buying a dewalt TS are looking for a small jobsite saw and accept its limitations. They do a lot of things right and I think their rack and pinion fence should be adopted by many other companies. But it cannot increase its table surface area, it'll never have the same stability and rigidity or a full size saw and it will be noisy compared to the ridgid or a Delta. That's just not what its buyers are looking for. Both Delta and Ridgid had trunion alignment issues, which at least Ridgid worked out and made right for old customers, but I'd be hard pressed to find a better overal, full size table saw than the Ridgid for $500, at least not a new one. Too bad they bumped the price on their jointer so much and never made a matching full size planer or drum sander hahah
  17. That's some very detailed carving. What CNC are you using?
  18. Cheapo grinder with variable speed: and cheapo grinding carbide wheel, though the holey ones are better but I only got the fine grit Then you have options up to an almost unlimited range. I do think the variable speed helps a lot here, so you can adjust based on the grit and type of wood, minimize burning, and go slower when you're close to the line. Just not so slow that you get kickback.
  19. I have one and I think it's pretty decent if you get it for the $170 I paid for it. It handles the smallest xtra-edge resaw blade (same as the woodslicer I think) which would do the job. I got to resaw 5" ipe with a shopmade fence clamped down to the table and that resaw blade, with more than a little patience of course, but it didn't die on me. It also handles the 1/8 blades pretty well. Doesn't do well with 1/4 blades for some reason, and the blade included is like trying to cut with a row of small hammers so just change it on the spot. Tracking and tensioning seem reasonable too, better than a friend's 14" jet for sure. $200 for the resaw blade ($18), the 1/8 ($8) and the bandsaw seems really good to me.
  20. Yes, if it's more crown than the belt can wrap around it gives a little more room to go off its track. I think other than referencing to the surface and making sure they're at the same angle from the base in all directions, any efforts to shim it could make it worse. Do you have one of those digital angle meter thingies? Going around both rollers with one of those should give you the same reading all around, if they are, it's just a matter of raising or lowering without changing the angle and trial and error from there. *image for comedic purposes, mostly*
  21. Not sure Ridgid fits in that list. Sure, there's no real competition around the $500 for their table saw and jointer, but they don't even have a high end. Dewalt would have a better shot at competing on planers i think, but again, no real high end there either. Laguna belongs in that list IMO.
  22. That's a great machine! Would you be able to swap out the motor for something bigger if needed in the future? Sanding full faces is probably too much at that size for 1.5hp. I read somewhere that adding a strip or two (or quite a few in your case) of tape in the middle of your drums could help the tracking quite a bit, maybe you can experiment a bit with that? Anyway, thanks for sharing! That was pretty cool.
  23. Same saw here, never had the fence issue, though I always push forward when locking it. I think the only benefit to having the workbench attached to the TS is for outfeed space, but the Ridgid has slots in the back fence rail, so you can make an outfeed table that folds down hanging from the rails. Also, as I have a small area where i need to fit everything into when not in use, my workbench is lower than the TS just enough so I can roll the TS right wing over the workbench