• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

5 Neutral

About soonerdg

  • Rank
    Apprentice Poster
  • Birthday 03/30/1972

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Joshua, Texas
  • Woodworking Interests
    furniture, crafts, home improvement

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I've got at 30 inch pedestal fan from HF. It moves a lot of air.
  2. I don't know if you have a Harbor Freight near you but if you do you can get a handheld metal detector for about $16. You can run that along your cut line to see if there are any nails. In that type of piece I doubt there will be any nails substantial enough to cause a serious kickback of your circular saw. But you never know.
  3. I work in the cargo industry and most times freight, particularly larger pieces like furniture, are charged based on volume weight rather than actual weight. There's a calculation that shipping companies use to calculate volume weight based on the size of the piece (crate) and then they will bill the larger of the volume weight or the actual weight. To calculate domestic volume weight in pounds for fedex: (LxWxHxPc)/139 (measurements in inches) So a piece that's 2'x2'x3' (about the size of the crate to ship a small side table that might way 5 pounds) would have a volume weight of 149.17 So if hat piece has a scale weight of 5lbs you will actually pay for the 149.17. This is why shipping furniture is ridiculously expensive. Different companies use a different divisor to calculate volume weight. For instance we use 194 rather than 139. Which would make the volume weight 106.8lbs using our calculation. So you'd be better off to quote your shipping based on volume weight unless you have a particularly dense piece of furniture. Or it's broken down and packaged to be assembled later.
  4. What about something like this. It's blue tooth so your phone should connect to it whenever it gets is able read it. Any call or text would be indicated visually. There may be other similar devices. This is just the first one I came across.
  5. Stability issues aside I agree that 1" thick would just look odd. Chances are that your client will think so as well when they see the finished piece. I think you would end up remaking the top. Kitchen counter tops are made to look like they are 1.5" thick because that's pleasing to the eye. If you put this piece in the kitchen it will just look odd IMO.
  6. Yep, I do this all the time when it's easy to get to the glue line. When it's not I use another method. There certainly is nothing wrong with wiping wet glue. But, as with almost every woodworking technique there are some instances where another method works better or is just easier.
  7. Can you order online from Harbor Freight. They have a fairly inexpensive handheld metal detector that should work fine for your use.
  8. Here's my $.02, for what it's worth. 1) I only will have a miter saw and a kreg jig to make this, so I will likely spend a lot of time picking out the lumber pieces making sure they're straight. Are 2x8s a good choice for this? I'd add a sander to the tool list if you can. You should be able to accomplish the design you have with just a few basic tools. 2) I want to make sure the shelves are strong enough to support sitting on, do I need to build anything under them as support? I would add some small triangular blocks under each shelf. Maybe just 3 per side. Or maybe some decorative iron shelf brackets. That should make it plenty sturdy to sit on. 3) I designed the bottom frame to be 70" long, but given the top is 88, can I get away with something shorter? I wouldn't go any smaller on the base for fear the top would be "tippy" when you sit on the edges. 4) How would you attach the bottom and top frame to each other? I'd like it to be reversible, so I was thinking one of those metal plates with holes for screws in it to attach the back pieces together. There's really no need to attach the top frame to the base frame unless it slides around. Then just a couple of screws to hold it in place should be fine. 5) I can probably nudge the budget up a bit to get something nicer for the top shelf boards which will be visible, what would you recommend? You could go with something like cherry if you can get it. But if you're getting your lumber from the big box stores you'll be pretty much limited to whatever their particular speicies of dimensional lumber is and maybe some oak (which is cost prohibitive to get fromt these places) and maybe poplar. I'd stick with whatever you use for the rest. With a little work you can actually stain and finish the lumber to look quite nice. As stated above you'll want slats under the mattress or it will sag over time. And make shure the frame can be broken down to be moved.
  9. Thanks guys. I think I'll make the trip this year.
  10. Anybody ever go to WIA just to go to the marketplace? Would it be worth it? I don't really want to spend the cash to go for the classes but I think it would be fun to see the marketplace. I work for an airline so travel would be free. Would I be wasting my time?
  11. Well I don't have a shaper and likely won't be getting one in my shop but it seems pretty evident to me (from that video) that it will make a tenon just fine. I too am a little shocked by that email. Even before watching the video I was confused by the emailers comments about tenons on a shaper. I mean if you can cut a tenon on a router table then you surely can cut one on a shaper. Anyway if he was going to call you out he should at least have the guts to use his own email address. Another internet tough guy.
  12. I would measure the leg to get the size of the notch and then mark it on your work piece. Then set up a dado blade in the TS being sure to stay just within the waste area. Then make micro adjustments "sneaking up" on the perfect fit.
  13. As several others have stated you'll be far more pleased with the journey and the end result if you build your table out of some other material. I'm slightly progressed from the novice side but not far and I can tell you that when I first tried to use recycled lumber it was clear to me that, at the very least, a planer was a necessity. Having a jointer to go along with it further simplifies the process. The wood you have could certainly be turned into a fine project IF you have the means to mill it into something useable. (Although as stated above it may be a little thin for a table). I have access to some oak pallet wood that's about 3 1/2" x 3" and it's beautiful wood when it's milled. So I saved and got a jointer and planer so that I could work it. Save yourself the frustration and build your table out of some other inexpensive lumber (nothing wrong with pine or poplar when you're starting out). That's most likely how we all started. I know I did.
  14. I got mine for the same saw at northern tool. just make sure you get one with the correct RPMs.
  15. I work about 10 miles from Woodcraft and about 20 miles from Rockler. Either can be on my way home, I just have to choose to go that way. Unfortunately each of those stores are 30-50 miles from my house. (Yes, I have a log commute). Those are the ONLY two options in my state as far as I know. So I don't know that you're spoiled but you lucky for sure!