• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

13 Neutral

About Meatwad

  • Rank
    Apprentice Poster

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Sherwood, AR
  • Woodworking Interests
    hobbyist projects

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I've got a table saw, jointer, and trim router. I was actually wondering about trying with the jointer and making repeated passes. But I could try the dado blade on my table saw, too. I've never used one before.
  2. I was mainly practicing cutting mortises and tenons. I am not good at tenons yet. I've got some scrap pine left over I was trying out some ideas for a nightstand. I don't have any plans yet. I just wanted to see what I would need to do. I wasn't talking about butt joints. All the plans I've seen so far use pocket screws and I don't really want to do that. I've watched several different methods on cutting MTs. I can cut mortises ok but tenons is where I fail. I am trying to saw them by hand but I find it is very easy for me to get my angle off and ruin the thing. Any suggestions?
  3. Other methods? Just plain old glue. I will check out Fine Woodworking. Thanks!
  4. Do I even needed M/T or is that overkill on something this small?
  5. I'm practicing building a nightstand and I've looked at several pictures to get some ideas. Here's one I kind of like. I'm trying to figure out how to fit the top and bottom aprons and it got me wondering if I should use a mortise and tenon and then I started wondering if you can actually do that from both directions with legs that are only about 1 inch square. Is there a good way to determine what's the minimum needed for strength?
  6. I see now. But even with something other than wood glue I'm guessing it's best to orient the grains in the same direction?
  7. I am not completely sure what it specifically I did that I should do differently. Can you elaborate more?
  8. It's glued to the pine underneath.
  9. First off a big thanks to everyone for helping me through my issues so far. I have finally finished my workbench (with the exception of adding a tail vise later). I got my issues planing the red oak for my top solved. But now that I have it pretty flat and in good shape I am concerned about spilling liquids on it and just generally protecting it from splintering near the places where I've glued it. What do you all recommend for protecting the top of this bench? Poly? Oil?
  10. Guys, thanks so much for the help. I'm happy to say I've had some success. I also think I figured out 2 of my problems. I've used the honing guide I bought to sharpen 2 irons and both have gotten sharp but they are both out of square to the same degree and side so I am going to order another guide just to see if it's me or the guide. Also I think the 1000 grit diamond stone I have works well but just isn't getting my final edge sharp enough. I have a 6000 waterstone that I've used as my final step and it has really made a difference. I don't like using water stones so I might try to find a dia
  11. After watching some more sharpening videos I'm starting to think my problem might be that my sharpening stone isn't fine enough grit. I've got a 2-sided 400/1000 grit stone. Everybody seems to be working with 8000 or higher for their final sharpening.
  12. So I bought a guide (same one you linked to, Chestnut) and got some polishing compound and a new diamond stone. For 3 days I spent an hour or 2 sharpening using the guide at 30 degrees and then testing out the blade. No matter how sharp I got it the blade kept skipping. So then I decided to change things up and got a Stanley replacement iron that I had and sharpened it at 25 degrees. It started cutting a little better but I still had skipping. I had been using my Kobalt plane and just out of curiosity I decided to try the same blade and chip breaker in my Amazon plane and it cut much better. I
  13. Sharpening freehand. Most of the advice I found on sharpening is pretty split between using a specific honing guide or just putting a camber on freehand without trying to hit a specific degree angle. It all seems a bit divisive to me so I just went with what I thought was the simplest approach first. I would've bought one of those honing guides but it seems like every one I see all the reviews say they are cheap crap. I'm not opposed to trying it though. As far as actual planing goes I can plane softwood fine now and I've gotten a lot better at it and this same plane I'm showing here work
  14. Here's some pics to assess my situation. In the photos of the board I am planing from right to left.
  15. I don't have it glued yet. I'm still just doing some prep work to make sure the red oak I got was flat on bottom. I also have some pretty cheap planes (Amazon Basics and a Kobalt) but I will take some pics and let you all tell me if I have the mouth set right. I spent a long time yesterday flattening one of my chip breakers and I'll spend some more time today sharpening.