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About Meatwad

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    Apprentice Poster

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    Sherwood, AR
  • Woodworking Interests
    hobbyist projects

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  1. Chip, I haven't decided yet but I think drawers is what I would do. Some place where I could put my more precise tools like squares and protractors that I don't want banged up around in my toolboxes. I wound up finding some nice douglas fir 4x4s so I will just try making some legs and see how it turns out. GS, I've actually watched that video, too. I vegged out these past few days watching Rex and Paul. Between the two of them I'm learning a lot.
  2. Thanks for the help. I was very curious on the legs because in Paul's video he seems to use winding sticks at each end but not anywhere in between. It seems like that would tell you the legs are parallel or in plane at the ends but there could still be some deformation in the middle. One of the things I had hoped to do after I get the bench together is eventually put a shelf underneath it so I was actually thinking of using 4x4s for the legs, planing one edge then running it through my planer once I have a couple sides flat and square to make all that easier. I am going to try the approach of using 2x4s on end and glueing them up. I just didn't want to invest a bunch of time into the wrong approach because that is a time consuming process.
  3. I've been watching Paul Sellers on his build a workbench series of videos from a couple years ago. I'm trying to follow the details of what he does but sometimes the camera is too far away for me to catch details or he says something in passing that I need more explanation on. Mainly my question is how much/square/accurate does my table top need to be and how square do my legs need to be. He seems to be doing all his work with hand planes because he's got 50 years experience and he's a wood samurai. My results don't generally turn out that good. Since I'm still learning it's hard to tell where I'm making mistakes or just need more practice. I'd like to wind up with a workbench that's flat enough for me to use when I glue pieces together evenly or when I'm checking something like chair legs for evenness (can't trust my garage floor). Are there any other techniques I need to know about for flattening and squaring when I try to follow along with these vidoes? Here's one of the episodes:
  4. Are there any general rules to follow to ensure one doesn't snap a screw? I was putting a 2.5" #8 screw into two pine boards. I drilled a countersunk pilot hole first as I had with the previous 9 screws I already did this with and then SNAP. I'm not sure if I hit a knot hidden in a board or what happened. I was using my same impact driver I always use. Any general advice on screw size, length, composition? I've noticed #8 2.5 inch screws are harder to find. Is it just better to go with a #10 once you get to that length?
  5. Ugh, guys I'm sorry, I should've said my board is bowed, not cupped. I'm still a noob.
  6. Tpt Life: Is there a good way for me to test that? wtnhighlander: It was frowning.
  7. Well I wasted a good bit of time today. I am building a patio chair and I needed a 32 inch (approximately) single board for a backrest support. The particular board I have has a about a 1/8 inch cup right in the center of it. I was trying to solve this using only my jointer and that did not work. The cup stayed no matter what I did. I'm still a rookie at this so I would appreciate some advice on how to handle this better in the future. What can I do when I get into a situation like this?
  8. @drzaius, putting an electrical box in the table is exactly what I had in mind. But having never done this before I just want to make sure I don't burn down my house. I am looking for some links , videos, or instructions.
  9. So I've got this idea to run a 3-pronged electrical plug cable to another outlet embedded in a table. It's not really my idea because I saw it in a furniture store. It's the new thing now to put electrical outlets in nightstands so you can easily charge your electrical devices. But I have no electrical experience so I need some help not killing myself I've youtubed several videos but if anyone here has some advice or instruction for me I'd feel safer.
  10. When you say the beds are 46" long is that measurement the combination of the infeed and outfeed table? In other words is the whole matchine 46" wide? That would at least give me a good idea of something to look for. All the help is appreciated.
  11. Ha, Eric, right now I have my tools and my motorcycle on my side of the garage and my car is outside. The other half of my garage belongs to my wife and I'm not going to invade it. Do you have any links to what you think a good jointer would be? A good compromise between performance, size, and cost?
  12. Never heard of him I'm afraid. So far I've just been buying cheap stuff from Lowes and Home Depot.
  13. Thanks for the help guys. I know it isn't the best jointer but I having a big bench jointer is just something I don't have room for. Maybe one day when I'm rich I can buy a place and get a little shop going. Right now I do everything out of my garage. This discussion raises some other questions: How effective would it be if I made an extension table for this jointer? Which side should it be on? Would it have to be perfectly level with the infeed/outfeed?
  14. Vyrolan, I picked up this little porter-cable from Lowes: . I am running it through cup-side down as per the instructions. I think it's just difficult for me due to the length of the board. Eric, you're a wise man. I'm trying not to push down too hard. The jointer came with some push blocks and the instructions said apply pressure to the jointed side of the board once it passes over the cutting knives. It also said the same thing you did about not pushing down too hard. If I had to guess I think what is happening is my board is long enough and the jointer tables short enough that the board is passing across the surfaces and maintaining its angle. When I'm done each end is 1/16" or less difference from the center. gee-dub, I'm going to watch that now.