Meatwad

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Meatwad last won the day on April 14

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    Sherwood, AR
  • Woodworking Interests
    hobbyist projects

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  1. @Chestnut, that's what I have been doing but this time the tape came off and glued to my cutting board leaving an awful purple mess. Thankfully that became the bottom side but I think I'm going to have to combine all this advice. Seems like getting to the glue under the clamps after 30 minutes or so is my best bet.
  2. I was gluing up several strips of wood into a cutting board this weekend and I got everything lined up, clamped up, cauled up, and glued up. While the board came out pretty good I did have a lot of glue cleanup to do where the clamps and cauls were holding the wood. Is there a good way to handle this? I've just been using a chisel and sanding but that doesn't always work out well. And I've got some new clamps I don't want to ruin with glue and rust.
  3. It's actually dowels which is what the plan called for. It called for dowels on the crossbeams as well but I wasn't going to be able to use my same doweling jig on the middle of the board so I decided to attempt this which got me thinking about ratios.
  4. I got the idea from when I built my workbench. It has "half-lapped" (for lack of a better term) joints in its cross beams as well. But I'm not sure if that's the correct term since those pieces aren't of the same size. I was attempting something similar here. My aprons are 3.5 inches thick. I didn't think it was necessary to cut half of that so I didn't. My "U" section is good but I was just wondering if I used a 2.5 inch wide cross beam if I really needed to cut it at exactly 50%. So I just picked 3/4". Maybe I should've said knife wall?
  5. I've been building this router table I found on finewoodworking which uses a maple frame for the top support. The one thing different I'm doing than the plan is using half lap joints instead of dowels for my supporting cross beans (see my picture). I cut my half lap to be 3/4 inch from a 2.5 inch board. The first one in my picture went fine but my second one split on me. My best guess is I hit my chisel too hard on it to start a kerf on the end grain. But I have no idea if I'm using the right ratio on this thing. So any advice?
  6. I wound up getting the jobsite pro from them. I wanted to check out the contractor saw but they didn't have one. I'm happy with the jobsite though. Thanks for the recommendation.
  7. Well, I looked around a lot but after hearing wtnhighlander's recommendation I went to the nearest Sawstop dealer to me which is in Bartlet, TN. I would definitely go back.
  8. I'm near Little Rock so about 2.5 hours from Memphis. I found the place. Looks like they are in Bartlett, TN. I'll call them tomorrow. Thanks!
  9. I'm in Arkansas if that matters. Thanks
  10. I've decided I want the sawstop jobsite pro but finding it online is hit and miss. I normally order my tools from amazon or HD but this is not available there. Anybody have opinions on woodcraft or rockler? Or some other place to recommend?
  11. I was just gluing mdf the other day and it did not turn out the way I hoped. I will give this a shot next time. Thanks!
  12. I'm going to try that out on something for sure.
  13. I think you were right, Chet. This was an extremely dynamic weather shift for us here in Arkansas in the last 48 hours. All that after our snow storm. The rust was dense but not thick thankfully. WD40 and a rag got it off and I put another paste wax layer on it. Thanks
  14. So we had some sever weather here yesterday with really high humidity. My jointer was fine yesterday but now has a coating of rust on the fence and infeed and outfeed tables. What's the best way to remove this without affecting the flatness/surface of the tables and fence? I have been using paste wax on top of it. Is there something else I should be using?
  15. I've got a table saw, jointer, and trim router. I was actually wondering about trying with the jointer and making repeated passes. But I could try the dado blade on my table saw, too. I've never used one before.