• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

8 Neutral

About Meatwad

  • Rank
    Apprentice Poster

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Sherwood, AR
  • Woodworking Interests
    hobbyist projects

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Sharpening freehand. Most of the advice I found on sharpening is pretty split between using a specific honing guide or just putting a camber on freehand without trying to hit a specific degree angle. It all seems a bit divisive to me so I just went with what I thought was the simplest approach first. I would've bought one of those honing guides but it seems like every one I see all the reviews say they are cheap crap. I'm not opposed to trying it though. As far as actual planing goes I can plane softwood fine now and I've gotten a lot better at it and this same plane I'm showing here work
  2. Here's some pics to assess my situation. In the photos of the board I am planing from right to left.
  3. I don't have it glued yet. I'm still just doing some prep work to make sure the red oak I got was flat on bottom. I also have some pretty cheap planes (Amazon Basics and a Kobalt) but I will take some pics and let you all tell me if I have the mouth set right. I spent a long time yesterday flattening one of my chip breakers and I'll spend some more time today sharpening.
  4. So I am close to finishing my workbench and the last step is to get some red oak I bought flattened for my top. I've been able to use my jack plane to take out some slight deformities but smoothing it out with my #4 smoothing plane has proven to be a very difficult task. I will keep sharpening my blade and see if that makes any difference but I keep reading online everywhere people are saying as long as your plane is "set up well" you should be able to do this. Can anybody go into a little more detail on this or what I should be looking for?
  5. I was looking at these, too, but the only ones I could find were $85 a piece so I'm not doing that. My current "workbench" is a quarter-inch square of plywood on top of some 2 x 4s and sawhorses. I coated it with polyurethane and I'm very surprised at how well it's actually held up and resisted dents.
  6. That's what I needed to know. I'd rather just do a hardwood top now. I can put this pine top together and just go make some hardwood panels to go on top unless I'm missing something?
  7. I believe it was dried if I am reading the stamp correctly. KD10 HT. I took a pic of my frame. 26 inch width x 48 inch length.
  8. Richard, I am concerned about the holdfasts, too. I actually decided I probably won't use the traditional kind either way I was thinking of re-inforcing the holes from the bottom with some douglas fir 2x4s I have. Do you think that would be sufficient for the bottom? The main reason I asked this question was because I just noticed how easy I can dent pine. If I look at it wrong it dents. Would something like linseed oil + polyurethane on top be good enough to resist bumps and bruises or would I just be wasting my time? I have used every curse word and invented a few new ones planing
  9. I've got my table top for my workbench ready to glue up. It's 1 3/16" thick. I was thinking of reinforcing it underneath where I would drill dogholes with some boards. But I am second guessing myself and wondering if this Pine just isn't going to stand up to any kind of abuse and I should just put a layer of some hardwood on top of it. Got any opinions or suggestions?
  10. I've got pine and douglas fir. Any good way to tell when it's ready to use? Also it just acclimates in my garage so there's no air conditioning in there.
  11. I've heard you need to let wood you buy at a place like Home Depot or Lowes dry out for a week or two before use because it can still be drying. Is there a rule of thumb for this or just a general rule for all wood? I swear I've flattened a board and then it twisted on me.
  12. Chip, I haven't decided yet but I think drawers is what I would do. Some place where I could put my more precise tools like squares and protractors that I don't want banged up around in my toolboxes. I wound up finding some nice douglas fir 4x4s so I will just try making some legs and see how it turns out. GS, I've actually watched that video, too. I vegged out these past few days watching Rex and Paul. Between the two of them I'm learning a lot.
  13. Thanks for the help. I was very curious on the legs because in Paul's video he seems to use winding sticks at each end but not anywhere in between. It seems like that would tell you the legs are parallel or in plane at the ends but there could still be some deformation in the middle. One of the things I had hoped to do after I get the bench together is eventually put a shelf underneath it so I was actually thinking of using 4x4s for the legs, planing one edge then running it through my planer once I have a couple sides flat and square to make all that easier. I am going to try the approac
  14. I've been watching Paul Sellers on his build a workbench series of videos from a couple years ago. I'm trying to follow the details of what he does but sometimes the camera is too far away for me to catch details or he says something in passing that I need more explanation on. Mainly my question is how much/square/accurate does my table top need to be and how square do my legs need to be. He seems to be doing all his work with hand planes because he's got 50 years experience and he's a wood samurai. My results don't generally turn out that good. Since I'm still learning it's hard to tell where