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Meatwad last won the day on April 14 2021

Meatwad had the most liked content!

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    Sherwood, AR
  • Woodworking Interests
    hobbyist projects

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  1. Size and height would be my real restrictions but I don't have any hard limits. I just have a half a garage I work out of so I try to make everything I have be worth the space. For resawing size I'm ready to try making some nightstands that have 0.5 inch panels so I was thinking of buying 5/4 and resawing them. No just standard 110 in my garage.
  2. I've never owned one before so not sure exactly what to look for. I'm mainly interested in resawing 1 - 2" boards to help save time and money. Nothing used for sale near me.
  3. Did you use oil-based paint? I hear alkyd-based has less tendency to have an amber color.
  4. I'm getting ready to create a lazy suzan as a wedding gift. It's just a simple two-piece with the top about 16 inches in diameter made from walnut and mahogany. It's a table centerpiece. After I build it my wife will paint some decorations on top, like the first letter of the new couple's last name. Since it's going to be used on a dining room table I was thinking it would need another coat of maybe water-based polyurethane on top to protect against spills and food items. What would you all suggest for the steps in finishing? I was thinking some sort of finish, then the paint, then the poly. Maybe even as simple as: Poly -> Paint -> Poly?
  5. My wife wants to mount some wind chimes to the exterior of our house, which is brick. Rather than just mounting the chimes directly I thought it would be a better idea to mount some sort of replaceable short wooden piece (like a 1 x 4) and then attach the chimes to the wood. So that leaves me with how to mount the board to the brick. I've never messed with masonry screws or drills before so I picked up some self-anchoring blue tapcon screws from Home Depot. Using a test brick they seem to hold fairly well but they are loose unless really tightened down. Anybody have any opinions on how to do this or screwing into brick?
  6. Well, I finished it and took your advice, @gee-dub. I put stretchers at the bottom and top and then used 2 layers of 3/4" plywood on top. I think it turned out pretty good. For those curious I used spax hardwood/mdf screws. I would definitely do rabbets on the walls and top and bottom next time.
  7. It sure is, but thankfully that is not the door to the house but a closet in our garage with a LOT of extra room.
  8. @gee-dub, yes, all the MDF is screwed together and yes I do have an MDF back panel to add but it doesn't have a rebate. I like the stretcher idea but I guess I'm not understanding how doubling the top would resist racking force. Can you explain? I wouldn't say we experience wide humidity swings but I'm in Arkansas so it just stays mostly swampy.
  9. I've got this cabinet frame started and I want to put my harbor freight drill press on it. It's 40 pounds. Do I need any additional support inside the cabinet other than just MDF? Wooden frame or anything? Or will the MDF be enough to hold it up? This is not my final design for how I will mount the drill press on top. I'm just showing it for reference.
  10. @Chestnut, that's what I have been doing but this time the tape came off and glued to my cutting board leaving an awful purple mess. Thankfully that became the bottom side but I think I'm going to have to combine all this advice. Seems like getting to the glue under the clamps after 30 minutes or so is my best bet.
  11. I was gluing up several strips of wood into a cutting board this weekend and I got everything lined up, clamped up, cauled up, and glued up. While the board came out pretty good I did have a lot of glue cleanup to do where the clamps and cauls were holding the wood. Is there a good way to handle this? I've just been using a chisel and sanding but that doesn't always work out well. And I've got some new clamps I don't want to ruin with glue and rust.
  12. It's actually dowels which is what the plan called for. It called for dowels on the crossbeams as well but I wasn't going to be able to use my same doweling jig on the middle of the board so I decided to attempt this which got me thinking about ratios.
  13. I got the idea from when I built my workbench. It has "half-lapped" (for lack of a better term) joints in its cross beams as well. But I'm not sure if that's the correct term since those pieces aren't of the same size. I was attempting something similar here. My aprons are 3.5 inches thick. I didn't think it was necessary to cut half of that so I didn't. My "U" section is good but I was just wondering if I used a 2.5 inch wide cross beam if I really needed to cut it at exactly 50%. So I just picked 3/4". Maybe I should've said knife wall?
  14. I've been building this router table I found on finewoodworking which uses a maple frame for the top support. The one thing different I'm doing than the plan is using half lap joints instead of dowels for my supporting cross beans (see my picture). I cut my half lap to be 3/4 inch from a 2.5 inch board. The first one in my picture went fine but my second one split on me. My best guess is I hit my chisel too hard on it to start a kerf on the end grain. But I have no idea if I'm using the right ratio on this thing. So any advice?
  15. I wound up getting the jobsite pro from them. I wanted to check out the contractor saw but they didn't have one. I'm happy with the jobsite though. Thanks for the recommendation.