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About ClareA

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    Apprentice Poster

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Refurbishing. Furniture Design. Painting.

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  1. I meant every thing white washed except bar top. I was wondering if oil based white pickling would cover the blue veins. I used water based for the boards with a color added underneath on one side. I do not want to put acrylic paint on bartop.
  2. Thank you I have denatured alcohol. I have the water-bourne Allpro polyurethane finish. Customers will be coming up and placing hands and possible other things on this bar top for hostess stand. Will 3 coats protect it enough. I also have an oil based pickling stain. I could test the back, however it is not carved so deep and is less white. It has beautiful blackish and vivid blue veins throughout I want to keep visible. I have 20 boards and a bar unit to add more finish. The owner wants to pick up soon to have carpenter and tile placed by his guy. I am not rushed but need to get it all done today. The brewery opens soon. Thank you for taking the time to answer. I have every type of finish but the one mentioned. I noticed that the de waxed shellac darkened the other wood pieces considerably, was a nice pine color but everything is to be a white wash. I did both sides 2 different ways to give him a choice. I have a lime wax but not sure if that would be protective enough? I also have regular wax. Do those yellow?
  3. I was trying to figure the different between the water-based products. In this pic one says water-based oil modified. How do they make water-based with solvents?
  4. Hi. I finished this piece yesterday. It was done with only chisels, hammer, and small scalpel. The buyer wants natural, so will a water based Polyurethane, it is not Polyacrylic darken the color?
  5. ClareA

    Liming Wax

    Hi. It is Briwax liming wax. I looked at directions and it says will work over sealed wood. It says contains petroleum distillates. Will that tarnish or eat through a water-borne poly? Which lime changes the color. Is it the chemical lime?
  6. ClareA

    Liming Wax

    Hello and happy Monday. I have a question about Lime wax. I had to special order it as I did the wax free Shellac. For reasons unknown I tend to gravitate and like a product which I can then not find in my city. I have not used this wax before. I have epoxy sealed knotty wood panels for decor, applied wax free shellac to seal the reclaimed wood. I finished whitewashing boards and will apply a couple layers of water-borne poly. In area near epoxy and other zones in which I want to touch up, will the white liming wax work over the water-borne poly or would it be best to use a glaze? Thank you.
  7. Interesting, so you are saying their is a difference between water-based and waterbourne? After using the AllPro finish, for myself, it was superb compared to other water-based poly-acrylic finishes. But, it says water-borne not water-based. Is this why it apply smoother? Please explain more. Thank you. On another note, I worked with a strong based xylene epoxy paint last night outside with respirator. I was covered head to toe, respiratory, heavy gloves. The project went well until the excessive sweat caused the suction seal to not work properly on resp. allowing the fumes in and I could smell it and started tasting it. I believe the fumes (heavier than air) were then stuck inside my resp. mask which was doing the opposite of helping at that point and thankfully I was almost done. I went inside and peeling off the mask and being hit with air conditioning, fresh cold air was a relief.
  8. I bought the dremel 4500? They had pictures around the product making it look like the circular pieces in kit were for the wood. Instructions said one was for metal and another for jewelry. The kit was not as wood specific as I wished it to be. I may exchange it because I am going to make jewel decor for furniture pieces in future and the kits may come into use with other aspects. Yes! When I used the long straight attachment for wood, the sound was piercing! Very high pitched. I will look into the jigsaw.
  9. I will invest in one when I have the extra funds. I have spent so much and the products and cost adds up quickly!
  10. There is one store here that sells or will order General products. I have enjoyed using their gel based stains, esp. if I need to add grain with a graining tool or by hand. I have not heard of a solvent free Lacquer. I brought my can of counter paint to a specialty store who stocks Benjamin Moore and they kindly remixed it a different color and said it had some nasty chemicals in it and recommended I not use xylene (they mentioned it was nasty stuff) and to discard foam rolls and brushes when finished. I have 3 very good synthetic brushes. I am hoping my cheaper ones will work smoothly for corners. I do not want to ruin the good brushes. I have mineral spirits and denatured alcohol for clean up.
  11. I will read it. I am also an oil painter on canvas. I love reading an actual book, not online.I will look for it. Thank you. I have quite a collection for painting.
  12. This is the base that I cleaned for an entire day (it was nasty with very flaky particle board throughout). The slab will go on the top ledge for the customer to approach. I applied Stix and spent considerable time, many hours to make sure every corner, and the joining of wood areas were sealed. I do need to invest in a sprayer. It would less hours, although I do like the physical work. I love doing this, so the labor has not bothered me yet. I will be applying a 1 part epoxy counter top paint today to the horizontal area only and areas easily accessed to not mess it up. I can go in with a chalk paint in hard to reach areas. I have light copper/gold tiles to apply as well. This base only cost $60 vs. $1000 for a large unfinished new poplar piece. It is a very sturdy and heavy piece.
  13. I bought the warranty. I bought it from Lowe's. It burned out in 3 hours! I do not know their policy.I paid with debit (basically cash). I am thinking they may give store credit. I did not find it to be as strong as I wished it too be. I thought the circular disks were for wood and would work like a doc removing a cast. I am looking into circular saws. I have a natural fear of circular electrical sharps. I may use a local carpenter next time I need areas removed on pieces that are large. The kick back is my worry.
  14. Hi, I am confused because I have 2 types of Shellac. The slab seems to be stronger than the reclaimed long and short board piece that when not sealed, the sander at any grit easily caused chunk or long sliver of wood to come off. I have the dewaxed sealer and the clear regular shellac. The brewery owner wishes for the slab to stay light with the blue details, natural and see how that looks on the top shelf of unit. I noticed how the sealer darkened the other wood pieces. On the top I was going to use the water-borne acrylic polyurethane by All Pro Brand which has not failed me yet applying with a wool type hand held applicator normally used with decks (with thick nylon wrapped around). This has not failed me yet on larger pieces with a smooth finish using water-based. I meant semi smooth before a sealer on those sides I chiseled (they are looking rough:) to strength if I find weaknesses. I am still relatively new to wood finishing. I am no expert, but I do study and read as much as I can.