RileyD

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About RileyD

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  1. RileyD

    Now what - what to get after Lathe?

    For a tool handle you can get away with the stuff that came with the lathe. You might need a smaller tool rest, 14 inches is pretty big. Tool handles for screwdrivers are around 6 inches or so long. A Jacobs chuck for the tail stock would be a nice purchase as well, it'll let you drill out the handle on the lathe instead of trying to do it on the drill press. But you could just drill the blank on the drill press and then turn it. The main benefit of the Jacobs chuck in the lathe is you get a perfectly centered hole. For bowls you'll want a chuck. A chuck is essentially just a work holding jig for stuff that rotates. It allows you to slide the tail stock out of the way and hollow out the bowl, while keeping the blank secure. It can secure pieces by clamping down the jaws onto a piece, or expanding the jaws to fill a recess. Tool size? 1 to 2 feet should be fine. The longer the tool , the more control you have over it. If the cost difference is minimal longer is better. Check out Jay Bates' candy dish video he does a spindle turning for the handle and a bowl turning for the dish. He uses a spur and live center to rough out the handle blank, then cuts a tenon to go in the chuck for more secure work holding. For the platter he uses a faceplate to cut the recess for the chuck jaws and then the chuck to finish the platter.
  2. RileyD

    Which Lathe Chuck

    Go with the Nova, it's a little cheaper and it's got the set screw so you can reverse it.
  3. RileyD

    I got the itch...

    For the things you listed you don't need a ton of accessories. Most lathes will come with a spur center and a faceplate. You need a chuck, Nova g3 and the Pennstate Barracuda are both decent choices. These mount to the head stock (the motor side) and allow you to securely hold lots of different blanks. They screw on the threaded part, so you need to get the right thread. You'll want a live center. This fits into the morris taper on the tail stock (non motor side). It's called a live center because it has a bearing in it that allows it to spin with the work piece. Taper size (2MT being the most common) is the thing that matters here. This will get used when you need support on both sides of the blank you are turning. You'll want a spur center (probably comes with the lathe), this fits into the morris taper in the head stock. It has spurs on it that you hammer into one side of a blank. If you get a chuck you probably won't use this much. It can be used to turn tool handles in conjunction with a lice center in the tail stock. You'll want a faceplate (probably comes with a lathe) kind of a poor man's chuck. You screw through the holes on the face plate into the blank then screw the face plate to the head stock. You might use this to turn a tenon on a blank so it will fit in your chuck. Carbide tools are great and no sharpening necessary. Easywood is a good choice, but they're on the expensive side. I'm not sure the brand of carbide tools makes a huge difference, so you may be able to save some cash here. It'll take longer to turn bowls with them, but it is doable.
  4. RileyD

    Woodworking without woodturning

    I've seen the little WEN lathe go on sale at Home Depot for ~$100. I have a couple of HF versions of the same one and they are OK little lathes for stuff like pens, tool handles, ornaments. Only issue I really have with them is the tail stock wheel can be hard to turn. They are variable speed too, which is a nice little bonus.
  5. IKEA has the free PAX wardrobe planner. You could use that to get some ideas on how you want to plan your closet.
  6. RileyD

    My very own millennial token coffee table

    A bunch of questions. What type of resin are you using? For this application you probably want something that is slow setting, around 24 hours to cure, using a faster setting resin is probably going to end up with bubbles in it. I'm assuming you used some kind of mica powder on that initial pour, the top of that casting looks good, but there are a ton of voids on the bottom. Either it wasn't fully cured when you poured the second layer and bubbled up or it set up super fast leaving the voids on the bottom. You could try hitting the melamine with some mold release (follow the directions and let it dry) to keep the melamine from chipping. Possibly the melamine is too rough and you are just getting bubbles due to surface imperfections. Is the gel dye you are using comparable with your resin? Polyurethane resins really don't like moisture of any sort, using a water based dye will do really bad things to your casting (the Peter Brown video mentioned above). I can't tell if that was the culprit on the second pour or it was just too much resin at once.
  7. RileyD

    Used lathe rant

    There is a kit available for some lathes https://www.pennstateind.com/store/TCLVSKIT.html
  8. RileyD

    Used lathe rant

    Same here. I have 2 of the HF mini lathes. My girlfriend still turns on one of them the other one got turned into a dedicated buffing station. This is probably why there are no lathes on Craigslist. Turners just hoard lathes.
  9. RileyD

    Used lathe rant

    If you wanted to get started bowl turning up to about 12 inch bowls this is what you would need. Rikon 220 VSR (or the Jet 1221) Variable speed lathe ~$600 on sale. If you wanted to go cheaper and give up variable speed you could go with the Harbor Freight lathe for about a $300 savings. Chuck PSI Barracuda 2 $140 or Rockler has the Nova G3 on sale right now for $150. 60 degree live center ~$20 Starter chisels Benjamin's best chisel set ~$100 Sharpening stuff Wolvering Jig $90, Wolverine Varigrind $50 Grinder (if you don't have one) Rikon 8 inch ~$100 on sale That's about $1100 including the grinder for decent middle of the line stuff, and an OK set of starter chisels.
  10. RileyD

    Wood crack & epoxy

    You can make epoxy flow better if you heat up the component parts before mixing. Just stick the bottles/syringe in some hot water for a bit. This will also speed up the cure though, so don't use 5 minute epoxy.
  11. RileyD

    Vacupress for veneer

    You can use breather mesh as well. https://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Vacuum-Breather-MeshNet.html
  12. RileyD

    Sealing green wood.

    I use Rockler's Anchor seal clone. Just because I can pick it up locally. I typically process the log into a pair of bowl blanks and just seal the end grain. If I get something I can't process right away, I just seal the ends and stick it in a garbage bag to try to reduce the moisture loss. Sometimes that works sometimes it doesn't.
  13. Highland Hardwoods in NH for me. I live in southern NH though.
  14. RileyD

    CANC machine for wood working

    The 2 typical DIY/kit solutions are the Shapeoko 3 and the XCarve . They run in the $1000 - $2000 range depending on size.
  15. If I had to do it, I'd probably use JB Weld, not the epoxy, the original one. It's machinable, so you might be able to recover the axe head, but I wouldn't count on it. Edit: I just saw that the axe head is wood? They have a wood weld product, but I've never used it.