• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


woodbutcher last won the day on January 26

woodbutcher had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

170 Excellent

About woodbutcher

  • Rank
    Journeyman Poster

Profile Information

  • Location
    - Helena, MT
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, small boxes, cabinets.

Recent Profile Visitors

1818 profile views
  1. I actually dont keep anything in it lol. Purely a decorative piece. I actually did a build journal for that cabinet a couple three years ago if you wish to check it out. The Pekovich Cabinet - Project Journals - Wood Talk Online
  2. Thanks rodger, the turntable is my Dads Pioneer PL-518 that he bought new back in 1978. He still had it but hadnt used it in many years. He was very happy that I could use it.
  3. Thank you! No, no trouble at all. The ink dries quite fast I found, and once it did, only a little dry dust would wipe off. Quick wipe with a paper towel to pick that up, and once a clear coat is on it, its sealed. I would recommend it to anyone wanting to try it out. Its dangerous when applying it though. Any drips will permanently stain anything it gets on. Including your fingers, it stays with you a few days. Heres a link to the ink i used. Amazon.com: Japanese Sumi Ink Chinese Brush Calligraphy Ink Painting Drawing Works India Ink Made in Japan, Black: Office Products
  4. I very recently finished the cabinet ive been working on that will hold all my stereo equipment and cds/vinyls. I had a thread open in the general woodworking sub about visible glue lines in a table top i was gluing together. The top was for this cabinet. Im happy to report I got the top glued together and there are only very minor areas where the joint is visible. I wrapped an LED strip around the inside of the case at the back to add some lighting to it and it really makes it pop. The case is regular Baltic Birch plywood that I ebonized using calligraphy ink. It worked great, but was a
  5. Well I think I have good news, fingers crossed. I talked with tech support for Jet this morning, and the nice fellow walked me through how he wants me to adjust the tables. He said dont shim the table, which I had done with feeler gauges. He said to loosen the gib screws, and wiggle the table around to seat it, then tighten the screws. Wiggle it around a little more, and snug the screws up fully. He had me take a straight edge of some sort, which I only have a 4' aluminum level, and raise the outfeed table until the blades just barely nick the straight edge across the width of the table. That
  6. The outfeed table has a low spot right in the middle. According to the dial indicator which was referencing off the infeed side. The table comes out of the low spot about 3/4 the way to the end and holds until the last couple inches of the table, then the table seems to rise up hard right at the last inch or two. So Im not left with the great impression that this table is completely flat. Is it close enough? Its going to have to be. I did call Jet this morning for some assistance... Ill update that when I have more time to work with what the guy told me to do.
  7. Thanks Coop, Ill call them and see if they can help me any. I believe that yes, the outfeed should be same height as the blades, and the infeed is lower, so the blades remove the material, and the new edge references off the outfeed side.
  8. Yes I had been running both boards across the jointer bookmatched together, but now that im chasing this jointer around, I have been using a single piece of scrap, around 16" long. Same thing, leaves a bump in the middle. Yes I have been considering that i may have started with a piece with a bump, and when jointing it it just follows the curve. So I took the piece and intentionally made a hollow in the middle with a hand plane, so that only the ends are touching the jointer bed, but no change, comes out the other end with a bump. This afternoon I took a scrap piece of cherry
  9. So my frustration level rises. I have been attempting to get a glue-up ready edge off my power jointer (Jet 6-inch helical head model, nice jointer, bought it used.) I had mentioned earlier in the post that my jointer leaves a bump in the middle of the board, leaving a gap at either end. Well, one thing lead to another, and saturday found me tearing apart the jointer, cleaning the dovetail ways, lubing them, then using a dial indicator and jig i made dialing in the outfeed table with shims in the ways. I have the far end of the outfeed table to within a couple thou of the near end of the
  10. Thank you Chet. Its a dovetail way jointer bed, I understand that it can be a real hassle to adjust. Ive heard guys have used feeler gauges to shim them, pop cans cut up, have you ever had to adjust one?
  11. Sorry Ive been so absent from this thread everyone, I really appreciate the responses. I had a setback with the panel glueups, they took a bit of a bump when I was working the edges and they let go. I am absolutely going to try TB2 and just joint the edges with my jointer. My jointer joints an edge that is a little high in the middle, so im not sure what to do about that. But ill deal with that when I get back on this project. This panel glue up project really has me scratching my head, I have struggled with it from basically the start. Ive done plenty of these in the past with out any problem
  12. Thanks for the responses guys. Ill snap a pic and post in here as soon as I can. TB3 has been my go-to, but it is a good theory that it could be responsible. Ill pick up some TB2 for my next project. Chestnut - I clamp each board together in a bookmatched orientation in my vise, and plane a hairline spring joint on the edges. Im getting better at it but i only in the last year or two been using this method. So I dont guarantee that its perfect, but I have some level of confidence that it is an adequate joint.
  13. Hey everybody, Im edge glueing a few boards together for table top, cherry, and in two separate glue-ups, a thin line of glue is visible at the joint. Im quite confident that the joint was done properly, I fussed over each for quite a while with my 5 1/2. I use Titebond 3 and parallel clamps every 6 inches or so. This has been something I have seen in the past, but it was just a one-off thing that didnt happen again. Now its happened twice. Any advice on why this may have happened would be much appreciated.
  14. Dont sell the WoodRiver planes short just because they are made in China or wherever. They are very nice planes. Sucks the price went up so bad. Its almost hard to not justify spending a little bit extra for a Lie-Nielsen.