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Everything posted by woodbutcher

  1. I actually dont keep anything in it lol. Purely a decorative piece. I actually did a build journal for that cabinet a couple three years ago if you wish to check it out. The Pekovich Cabinet - Project Journals - Wood Talk Online
  2. Thanks rodger, the turntable is my Dads Pioneer PL-518 that he bought new back in 1978. He still had it but hadnt used it in many years. He was very happy that I could use it.
  3. Thank you! No, no trouble at all. The ink dries quite fast I found, and once it did, only a little dry dust would wipe off. Quick wipe with a paper towel to pick that up, and once a clear coat is on it, its sealed. I would recommend it to anyone wanting to try it out. Its dangerous when applying it though. Any drips will permanently stain anything it gets on. Including your fingers, it stays with you a few days. Heres a link to the ink i used. Amazon.com: Japanese Sumi Ink Chinese Brush Calligraphy Ink Painting Drawing Works India Ink Made in Japan, Black: Office Products Thanks Coop, mostly classic rock. The Beatles, Queen, Fleetwood Mac, Boston to name just a few. I have a few new vinyls, not really into that much anymore, theyre expensive (and frankly, not as cool as original pressings). Thanks treeslayer, yes ive added LED strips to other things around my house, im quite into it.
  4. I very recently finished the cabinet ive been working on that will hold all my stereo equipment and cds/vinyls. I had a thread open in the general woodworking sub about visible glue lines in a table top i was gluing together. The top was for this cabinet. Im happy to report I got the top glued together and there are only very minor areas where the joint is visible. I wrapped an LED strip around the inside of the case at the back to add some lighting to it and it really makes it pop. The case is regular Baltic Birch plywood that I ebonized using calligraphy ink. It worked great, but was alot of work. Id have been better off painting the panels. But it was worth a try and would use the ink again (and will on my next project im making for a friend). I topcoated the panels and the cherry with a couple coats of dewaxed shellac, then some spray lacquer. Thanks for checking it out! P.S. loading pictures is so easy now!
  5. Well I think I have good news, fingers crossed. I talked with tech support for Jet this morning, and the nice fellow walked me through how he wants me to adjust the tables. He said dont shim the table, which I had done with feeler gauges. He said to loosen the gib screws, and wiggle the table around to seat it, then tighten the screws. Wiggle it around a little more, and snug the screws up fully. He had me take a straight edge of some sort, which I only have a 4' aluminum level, and raise the outfeed table until the blades just barely nick the straight edge across the width of the table. That took some playing with with the gib screws, which is fine, but I eventually got it where i want it. Then I did the same with the infeed side. I monkeyed with it until it was parallel to the outfeed table, using the straight edge and my .004" feeler gauge. Then it was just about adjusting the outfeed table height running scrap through until it was at the right height. I am getting pretty good results on my work pieces. The edges are pretty darn close to right on. Could they be just a little better, yes they could. But they are very close. I feel like the two edges of the boards Im glueing together are ready to glue together. I have them in clamps right now, we will see how they turn out in the morning. Thanks to everyone for your help, ill update the thread with how things turn out.
  6. The outfeed table has a low spot right in the middle. According to the dial indicator which was referencing off the infeed side. The table comes out of the low spot about 3/4 the way to the end and holds until the last couple inches of the table, then the table seems to rise up hard right at the last inch or two. So Im not left with the great impression that this table is completely flat. Is it close enough? Its going to have to be. I did call Jet this morning for some assistance... Ill update that when I have more time to work with what the guy told me to do.
  7. Thanks Coop, Ill call them and see if they can help me any. I believe that yes, the outfeed should be same height as the blades, and the infeed is lower, so the blades remove the material, and the new edge references off the outfeed side.
  8. Yes I had been running both boards across the jointer bookmatched together, but now that im chasing this jointer around, I have been using a single piece of scrap, around 16" long. Same thing, leaves a bump in the middle. Yes I have been considering that i may have started with a piece with a bump, and when jointing it it just follows the curve. So I took the piece and intentionally made a hollow in the middle with a hand plane, so that only the ends are touching the jointer bed, but no change, comes out the other end with a bump. This afternoon I took a scrap piece of cherry, a cutoff, and jointed a face, then raised the table up well high. I ran the piece through dozens and dozens of times, lowering the table until i started getting that bit of snipe at the trailing end that means the table is now too low. I begin raising the table back up until the snipe disappears, but still get the bump in the middle. And when I say I raise, or lower the table, I mean im turning the wheel on the table a minute on the clock at a time. I mean its just enough to say i turned it and nothing more. Ive probably spent two hours at least this weekend just doing this, checking the piece each time, and have not once got a straight edge off this thing. Would it do me any good at this point to reach out to Jet? I bought this jointer used a couple three years ago now, would they be any help to me?
  9. So my frustration level rises. I have been attempting to get a glue-up ready edge off my power jointer (Jet 6-inch helical head model, nice jointer, bought it used.) I had mentioned earlier in the post that my jointer leaves a bump in the middle of the board, leaving a gap at either end. Well, one thing lead to another, and saturday found me tearing apart the jointer, cleaning the dovetail ways, lubing them, then using a dial indicator and jig i made dialing in the outfeed table with shims in the ways. I have the far end of the outfeed table to within a couple thou of the near end of the table. There is a big dip in the middle of the table, .005-.006" id say, but it comes back to where it started. I am fairly certain that I have the outfeed table as level with the infeed side as I will be able to get it, given the irregularity with the low spot in the middle. I put the jointer back together and this now leads me to where im going with this post. I have spent a good bit of time getting the height of the outfeed table just right. It started high, I was still seeing a bump in the middle of the boards, but no snipe near the end which is the sign the table is low. Wasnt getting that. I lowered the table a quarter turn of the handle at a time, still seeing a bump in the middle, no snipe. Finally got snipe, still has a bump in the middle. Raise the table back up until the snipe quit, still have the bump. I have tried varying my technique, shifting pressure to the outfeed table as soon as the board reaches it, ive tried dropping the board onto the knives in the middle of the board a couple times to remove the bump, then full pass to level it out, no good. I took some pictures of the edge im trying to straighten out so you can see what im dealing with. First end Middle, as you can see, its closed up. Far end, back open. Feeling quite dejected at this point. Glue-ups are woodworking 101, Ive been doing this for 4 years now, and have never struggled this much with edge glue-ups. Thanks everyone, and thanks for all the advice provided to me in this post so far. I really appreciate it.
  10. Thank you Chet. Its a dovetail way jointer bed, I understand that it can be a real hassle to adjust. Ive heard guys have used feeler gauges to shim them, pop cans cut up, have you ever had to adjust one?
  11. Sorry Ive been so absent from this thread everyone, I really appreciate the responses. I had a setback with the panel glueups, they took a bit of a bump when I was working the edges and they let go. I am absolutely going to try TB2 and just joint the edges with my jointer. My jointer joints an edge that is a little high in the middle, so im not sure what to do about that. But ill deal with that when I get back on this project. This panel glue up project really has me scratching my head, I have struggled with it from basically the start. Ive done plenty of these in the past with out any problems. I do alternate my clamps top and bottom. And i had thought about possibly over-tightening them, so on the second panel I made certain I was tightening the clamps enough to close the joint, and not much more. Didnt change the outcome. yes, It does run the full length. I guess at this point I do not rule out that I may have over done the spring joint. I didnt think so at first, but at this point, anything is possible.
  12. Thanks for the responses guys. Ill snap a pic and post in here as soon as I can. TB3 has been my go-to, but it is a good theory that it could be responsible. Ill pick up some TB2 for my next project. Chestnut - I clamp each board together in a bookmatched orientation in my vise, and plane a hairline spring joint on the edges. Im getting better at it but i only in the last year or two been using this method. So I dont guarantee that its perfect, but I have some level of confidence that it is an adequate joint.
  13. Hey everybody, Im edge glueing a few boards together for table top, cherry, and in two separate glue-ups, a thin line of glue is visible at the joint. Im quite confident that the joint was done properly, I fussed over each for quite a while with my 5 1/2. I use Titebond 3 and parallel clamps every 6 inches or so. This has been something I have seen in the past, but it was just a one-off thing that didnt happen again. Now its happened twice. Any advice on why this may have happened would be much appreciated.
  14. Dont sell the WoodRiver planes short just because they are made in China or wherever. They are very nice planes. Sucks the price went up so bad. Its almost hard to not justify spending a little bit extra for a Lie-Nielsen.
  15. I use a thin kerf Freud crosscut blade for most of my needs. If im ripping a thicker piece of hardwood ill throw my Freud rip blade in. But my general use blade is the thin kerf crosscut Freud. Costs like $45. Works for me.
  16. Titebond 3 is my preferred glue. Little bit longer open time than the first two. Does tend to be a bit runnier though. Havent decided if thats a good thing or a bad thing.
  17. Everything was fine once I took the t guide thing on the front. Doesnt seem to work with my table saw. It took alot of fiddling to get the fence square, I had to be very patient and use a consistent method of tuning to get it on. Im still not terribly impressed with this miter gauge, but It is working for me now.
  18. Got to mess around with the thing for about 30 minutes at lunch, finally got it to an acceptable square setting, and the movable flip stop on the money. Thanks for the help everyone.
  19. Thanks everyone. I initially used my reliable square up against the blade and the fence. That got me very close, but I wanted to be closer. My method for fine tuning, is the method Marc uses in his 5 cuts method on his cross cut sled build video. He uses a thin shim between the fence and a workpiece to move the fence in the proper direction by a few thousands or whatever. That method has worked for me before, and im sure itll work now. Just need to mess with it when im not already frustrated.
  20. You were right Sawdust, it was the little T shaped thingy. I thought i pulled it off and checked it but I must not have. The bar sits flush with it off of there. Ill just run without it, I dont really see much use for it anyway. So with that settled, ive been monkeying around with the gauge trying to get it to cut square, and having a heck of a time. Itll be off one way, ill adjust a little, gets closer but not there, I adjust a little more, and its off by a mile the other direction. Very frustrating. Least favorite part about woodworking, constantly having to fight with stuff to keep it cutting square.
  21. I checked the T shaped thing, its not interfering. I did remove the aluminum fence, and still have the problem. Ill get an exact measurement on the thickness of the bar and the slot, I checked with just a ruler, its close, but from what I can tell the bar is not as thick as the slot is deep. lll make for certain with my calipers though.
  22. Whats up everyone, So I just got my new Incra Miter 1000se, set it up, everything seems to be in working order. Except, the top of the miter bar is sitting higher than the surface of my table saw. Not by a huge amount, but enough to cause me problems. Its causing the work piece im cutting to not sit flat, and im getting inaccuracies in squareness because of this. It doesnt make any sense, the top of the bar is bolted to the underside of the base of the gauge. I cant see what the problem is. I thought the bar might have a crown in it, but a straight edge says it pretty close to flat. Im considering using thin washers between the top of the bar and the underside of the base. Thanks
  23. Derek- Do you put a shoulder on your tail board, to help with alignment when transferring the pins? Awesome journal, your work is absolutely stellar.
  24. I just bought a Veritas flat bottom spokeshave. I found it to be a pleasure to use, and wont hesitate to use it again the next time I am doing anything with curves.