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About Geoffrey

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture building, hand tools, power tools

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  1. Geoffrey

    Sapele Sideboard

    Gee-dub, I am glad you posted that. Thank you! I had been planning on locking the center tenon and making slots for the pegs at the outer tenons. After reading your post and thinking about it, I will do as you suggest. The top is quartersawn and only 15" wide. The movement will likely be under 3/8", if that. I'll have plenty of room to allow all the movement to go towards the back and keep the front nicely aligned.
  2. Geoffrey

    Sapele Sideboard

    Steve, that's a great idea to prep the stock in multiple widths. I'll have to try that. Chestnut, so far I have resisted the 700; the 500 is plenty for me. I have used some of the 700's tenons, though. Before I thought of making my own, I bought some of the 8x100 tenons for a bookcase project where each section of the bookcase has a central upright that divides the shelves into two sections. To keep the shelves aligned, I used the domino to make a through mortise in the upright and the mortises in the shelves for the left and right sections. Then, I used the long domino tenon to run through the central divider and connect the two shelves to each other. It certainly kept the shelves aligned better than I could do if I were using dados.
  3. Geoffrey

    Stickly Coffee Table

    Beautiful work--I can't believe it was done in six days. I'm lucky if I get closer to six weeks than six months. The cherry and the execution of the Stickley style are both great. I love the bevel under the top. Is that only 45 degrees? It looks greater than that.
  4. Geoffrey

    Sapele Sideboard

    Over the past week, I was able to make the glue up for the top of the sideboard. Three long boards edge glued with dominos for alignment did the trick. I still need to sand, but it is starting to look like a top. I'd prefer to run it through the planer after doing the glue-up, but at 15", it is just a bit too wide for the DeWalt 735. I had to take it down to 1 inch thick before the glue-up. Sitting on top at the far end is a breadboard end waiting to be attached. This was my first try at making my own dominos to get an extra-wide tenon. Each one is 1.5 inches wide and fit nicely into an 8mm mortise. The breadboard end mortises should have plenty of room for movement. I'll let the glue dry on these tenons and then cut the slots for the pegs. I'll try to place the slot slightly closer to the main top for a bit of drawboring. But, the pegs will not go through to the top of the breadboard. These peg holes are only on the underside of the breadboard. I also hung most of the doors. I still need to finalize where we want the door pull. I was thinking 1/3 rd of the way down the stile, but now we are discussing placing it starting about 1 - 2 inches below the upper rail. I'll finish fine-tuning the doors before adding the pulls. Without the top attached, who needs door pulls anyway. Plus, blue tape can do the trick. The door pull will be the basic oil-rubbed bronze from Amerock, which will go nicely with other doors and drawers in the kitchen. And I think the color will go well with the sapele.
  5. Geoffrey

    Pekovich Case on Stand

    Beautiful work!
  6. Geoffrey

    Sapele Sideboard

    There are times I think about how nice it would be to make a Roubo. Fine tuning the doors to fit is making today one of those times. I have the guild Roubo project, but I think I'd really like to go to a class for a week and benefit from the experience, assistance, and large jointer there. My current workbench holds pieces flat very nicely for power tools. The more I have started using planes, though, the more I would really like a leg vise. In the meantime, a couple clamps on the outfeed table will do the trick.
  7. Geoffrey

    Minwax Wipe-on Poly on cherry

    That is some beautiful cherry. My favorite improvement in my woodworking was when I stopped trying to stain cheap wood from the big box stores and first used cherry with no stain and just several coats of wipe-on poly. Suddenly I started liking the things I made a whole lot more. Just the natural cherry glowing through the varnish is a thing of beauty. And it keeps getting nicer over time as it ages.
  8. Geoffrey

    Pekovich Case on Stand

    Looking back at how you made the legs...I am bookmarking this thread. That is a great tutorial on getting rift-sawn legs. I definitely want to try that next time instead of just getting "close-enough."
  9. Geoffrey

    Sapele Sideboard

    I picked up replacement 5/4 boards for the top, as well as a couple 4/4 boards for one more shelf at the lumberyard today. The weather forecast was for no rain in the morning, but of course it started raining while we were there. No pictures of boards in the pickup because I was in too much of a hurry to get them inside. Since they got wet, I'll hold off on milling them for a couple days. I did get back to the doors, though. I gave the door rails and stiles their last sanding at 220, let the air cleaner run a bit, and then put on their first coat of varnish. There's 24 more pieces for the drying rack. I think I'll glue up the doors next, before applying the remaining coats of varnish. The one coat should give me some insurance against glue squeeze-out, so I should be safe.
  10. Geoffrey

    Pekovich Case on Stand

    Really nice piece. That class sounds like a great experience.
  11. Geoffrey

    Sapele Sideboard

    Well, it was the best of times, it was the worst of times. I saved the four 5/4 boards that I thought had the most attractive figure for the top. Since I only have a 6-inch jointer, it was the planer sled to the rescue. Each board took a couple passes to flatten the top, then went through without the sled to bring them down to 1.1" thickness. The result looked pretty good. Sadly, the second board from the left has a check in one side that goes all the way through. And the rightmost has a split along the grain. I wanted to start jointing and gluing up the top panel, so I was tempted to just go ahead and hope for the best. Maybe even try my first attempt with epoxy? First, though, I decided to come inside, have some tea, and think about it. After mulling it over, I think these will be beautiful boards for a future project (there are many on the list) where I can use them for smaller parts and cut around the defects. So, looks like a trip to the lumberyard is in store for Saturday. They are even having a sale on exotics, including Sapele, for July.
  12. Geoffrey

    Quickie project - printer stand

    Nice! The texture on the shelf trim really complements the aluminum casting.
  13. Geoffrey

    Sapele Sideboard

    Tonight, I was not able to get to the sanding of the door frame parts, but I was able to install the bottom shelf. It is screwed in from below at the front of the cabinet, while the back is secured with tabletop z clip fasteners to allow for movement. At least it looks more like a cabinet now.
  14. Geoffrey

    Sapele Sideboard

    Thank you, all! For most pieces, I put a small cup hook in the end and use that as a handle while wiping on varnish, then hang the piece on the garage door track to dry. It lets me varnish both sides at the same time and keeps the pieces out of the way. The long shelves have a bigger hook and hang off the bracket on the ceiling that supports the garage door track. No chance of the garage door opening, as it is locked shut.
  15. Geoffrey

    Sapele Sideboard

    I've never posted anything I've worked on, but I thought it would be interesting to try. I am sure I will learn something from it, and maybe I'll even give someone else an idea. My wife asked for a sideboard for some additional storage in the kitchen. While we were at the lumberyard getting cherry for another project, she noticed some sapele and thought it would be a nice wood for the sideboard. I had heard of sapele frequently here and on Woodtalk, so I readily agreed. I was looking forward to trying a different wood for a change. For the design of the cabinet, it took a few iterations before we came up with a design we both liked and worked out the dimensions. Fortunately, Sketchup makes that part easier. The design is mainly Stickley-inspired. First, I made the pieces for the sides--sturdy corner posts from an 8/4 board joined by top and bottom rails with two panels separated by a central divider. In June, I worked on the front and back rails and the many pieces for the shiplapped back panels. The side panels were varnished and assembled, then the front and back rails were glued up with their dividers. Today, we put the front and back sections together with the two side panels. The three sections of the sideboard will each have two doors. I originally planned on using a wide board for the door panels, but I could not resaw a board that wide. I think it turned out for the best, though, as by ripping the board first before resawing, I was able to make some bookmatched panels for the doors instead. The door panels are varnished and waiting for their frames, which just received their chamfers this evening and have a final 220 grit sanding before they get their varnish. The bottom and the middle shelf are already varnished and ready to go. They've been hanging around (here seen with the back panels while they were curing). With luck, tomorrow after work I will be able to get to the final sanding for the door pieces, so I can get the varnishing going. Then, I need to start on the top. Geoffrey