Geoffrey

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Everything posted by Geoffrey

  1. People are selling a used DW735 for $400? I'd sell mine for $200, since I am not using it any more and I have to walk around it. I still think the DW735 is a great planer. Great quality on the cuts, easy to replace knives, and powerful chip blowing. (I used a Rockler separator after the planer, and I had to clamp the lid to the bucket of the separator or the 735 would blow the lid off.) The problem for me was that my jointer was only a 6" model, and I wanted something wider. While I started shopping for a wider jointer, I ended up with a big combo machine, so now I use that for all my jointing and planing work.
  2. Geoffrey

    Sapele Wood

    For quarter sawn, 4/4: $5.95, 8/4: $6.25, 12/4: $6.75.
  3. I am very happy with mine. I turn it on almost every time I work in the shop. It's a handy guide for how long to run the air cleaner and to keep the dust mask on after activities. (The air cleaner's shortest timer setting is two hours, but the Dylos will show very clean air in ten to fifteen minutes.) On the other side, it shows how good the dust collection is with other tools, when I see the Dylos barely increasing. I am glad I have it.
  4. Beautiful cabinet. I love the kumiko door. Just the door alone must have taken longer than the rest of the cabinet.
  5. Bankstick, I think the saw may have been made in 1995 (I am pretty sure it was in the mid 90s, and the first two digits of the serial number are "95", so maybe?). wtnhighlander, hah! The label may be a bit of an exaggeration. That's "max developed" HP all right. It plugs into a regular 120V outlet, so it's not quite the 3HP a 240V motor would be.
  6. As I start using hand planes more, I realize I need to replace my worktable with a better workbench. To make room for that, I need to part with the old table saw that I haven't used since my wife surprised me with a SawStop one Christmas. This is a Sears Craftsman built by Emerson, model 113.298762. I have upgraded the fence, replaced the original pulleys with machined pulleys, replaced the belt with a link belt, and added the PALS precision alignment system for adjusting the trunnion. It does run smoothly. If anyone in the Warrenton, Virginia, area is interested, I am asking $250.
  7. I have the Incra Mast-R-Lift in a table I built based on the Norm Abrams router table plans. The lift is great. I also really like the router table design for being able to use featherboards to push against the fence as well as down to the table, for its dust collection, and for its storage for bits and accessories. Either of the Jessem or Woodpecker tables shown would be ideal for the lift, but need help for the dust collection and storage side of things.
  8. I use the Domino 500 on just about every project, and I love it. I also bought the kit with the 4, 5, 6, 8, and 10 mm cutters and tenons. I've used all the sizes, so it was worth it for me. I do not have a Festool vac, but my Rigid shop vac works fine with it. I have not tried any of the Woodpeckers or Seneca accessories. I do use the RTS Engineering Self Centering Guide ( http://www.dominoguide.com/ ) all the time for centering on the width of narrow stock or aligning mortises on pieces. It does not look like it is still available, though.
  9. Before getting a dust collection system, I used the Rockler Dust Right Separator (then called the Vortex) on my DW 735. I had to clamp the lid down on the separator to keep the blower on the planer from blowing the lid off. The 735 has a pretty strong blower!
  10. You can get a jointer plane, a jack plane, and smoothing plane for around $900 from Lie Nielsen or Lee Valley. For power tools, you'll need to pick one to start with. A new DeWalt 735 planer with the extra infeed/outfeed tables would be around $600 and allow you to plane rough lumber up to 13" wide. You could put off the immediate need for a jointer by using a sled with the planer, or a scrub plane / jack plane, to remove high spots from the rough lumber and get it flat enough for planing. The DeWalt 735 is well-regarded for a portable planer. It's also what I have. Because my jointer is only a 6" model, I have to use the planer sled method for any rough lumber wider than 6". Eventually, I would like to get a wider jointer, or a Hammer jointer / planer combo machine and have a jointing capacity the same as the planing capacity.
  11. I have the 500 and love using it on pretty much every project. I have the set with the 4, 5, 6, 8, and 10 cutters and dominos. I've used all the sizes, but mostly the 6 and 8, since most of the pieces I've worked with are 7/8" or 1". The 4mm came in handy for some 1/2" slats, though. I recently made my own dominos because I wanted very wide ones I could put a dowel through for attaching a breadboard end. Other than that, though, I buy the beech dominos. I have not tried the new connectors. The domino has become a standard step in my workflow.
  12. I have the same problem resawing on the bandsaw, so I do the same as Chestnut. Two passes on the table saw with a thin kerf rip blade, leaving a narrow connecting strip, and then finish with the bandsaw (if the board is under 6 inches wide so it fits). Then the thickness planer cleans it up. I do like Stickley pieces with some heft. I like to use a full 1" for most parts, or 7/8 at the least.
  13. I like to pre-finish all pieces individually before assembly. It's just easier for me. I never have to worry about glue squeeze-out during assembly that way. With a cup hook stuck in the end of the piece either next to a mortise or on the bottom end of a vertical part, I can hang the pieces up to dry between coats of finish. I also only glue the mortise and the tenon, not the end grain.
  14. Very nice work. I really like the dovetail key in the through tenon. Beautiful job!
  15. Thank you. This one is a bit long for a sideboard, but it works in that space. It will be holding extra dishes, so we called it a sideboard. For a dining room, Chet's Arts and Crafts sideboard from Fine Woodworking would be a better fit. I think the detail in earlier period pieces is amazing, and I doubt I'll ever have the skill to make a piece like that. For making furniture for the house, though, I really like the Arts and Crafts style.
  16. I actually did sign and date the underside of the top. I haven't done that before, but I thought I would for this one. At least I'll be able to remember when I made it ten years from now. And you are right about the curse on anyone painting it!
  17. I can't believe it's been a couple weeks. Most of the time has been letting the varnish cure and off-gas a bit. First, though, I did get the rest of the doors on and the breadboard ends attached. The top is interesting and almost looks like notes on sheet music. (it's a bit busier under the bright light than it normally looks.) Over Labor Day weekend, I took the top and doors off and the shelves out. We brought it inside to live in the kitchen and put it all back together. At almost 99 inches long and 15 deep, it fit in to its new home. Overall, I like the sapele and will definitely use it again (although I still love using cherry, too). I have some boards left over, and we do need a couple shelves in the family room....
  18. Beautiful work! The hardware is perfect for what you made. I love the grain centered on the drawer faces.
  19. Gee-dub, I am glad you posted that. Thank you! I had been planning on locking the center tenon and making slots for the pegs at the outer tenons. After reading your post and thinking about it, I will do as you suggest. The top is quartersawn and only 15" wide. The movement will likely be under 3/8", if that. I'll have plenty of room to allow all the movement to go towards the back and keep the front nicely aligned.
  20. Steve, that's a great idea to prep the stock in multiple widths. I'll have to try that. Chestnut, so far I have resisted the 700; the 500 is plenty for me. I have used some of the 700's tenons, though. Before I thought of making my own, I bought some of the 8x100 tenons for a bookcase project where each section of the bookcase has a central upright that divides the shelves into two sections. To keep the shelves aligned, I used the domino to make a through mortise in the upright and the mortises in the shelves for the left and right sections. Then, I used the long domino tenon to run through the central divider and connect the two shelves to each other. It certainly kept the shelves aligned better than I could do if I were using dados.
  21. Beautiful work--I can't believe it was done in six days. I'm lucky if I get closer to six weeks than six months. The cherry and the execution of the Stickley style are both great. I love the bevel under the top. Is that only 45 degrees? It looks greater than that.
  22. Over the past week, I was able to make the glue up for the top of the sideboard. Three long boards edge glued with dominos for alignment did the trick. I still need to sand, but it is starting to look like a top. I'd prefer to run it through the planer after doing the glue-up, but at 15", it is just a bit too wide for the DeWalt 735. I had to take it down to 1 inch thick before the glue-up. Sitting on top at the far end is a breadboard end waiting to be attached. This was my first try at making my own dominos to get an extra-wide tenon. Each one is 1.5 inches wide and fit nicely into an 8mm mortise. The breadboard end mortises should have plenty of room for movement. I'll let the glue dry on these tenons and then cut the slots for the pegs. I'll try to place the slot slightly closer to the main top for a bit of drawboring. But, the pegs will not go through to the top of the breadboard. These peg holes are only on the underside of the breadboard. I also hung most of the doors. I still need to finalize where we want the door pull. I was thinking 1/3 rd of the way down the stile, but now we are discussing placing it starting about 1 - 2 inches below the upper rail. I'll finish fine-tuning the doors before adding the pulls. Without the top attached, who needs door pulls anyway. Plus, blue tape can do the trick. The door pull will be the basic oil-rubbed bronze from Amerock, which will go nicely with other doors and drawers in the kitchen. And I think the color will go well with the sapele.