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Everything posted by rarefish383

  1. Thanks, that's the way I think I'm going to go, a block of Oak. I also think I'm going to try and drill out the brad holes on the Tee nut so I can use a larger nail with the point ground off, or a screw, so it wont be a tapered point trying to grip the hole. I have some aluminum angle, I might try drilling some holes in it and running self tapping screw in, then grind the point of. Thanks again, every perspective adds to the knowledge base. Next time I do something like this, I'll have a better starting point, Joe.
  2. I found the tool, a grinder flange lock nut tool. I new I'd seen one before. Now to find or make one small enough.
  3. Up date on the table. I spent all day yesterday with a wire brush on the air die grinder. Got all of the metal really clean. Put a couple coats of hand Hammered Black on it. Turned out nice. Got 6' of 1/2" steel pipe, and 6' of all thread, cut in 22" lengths. To make braces to stiffen it up. I got nuts to draw it down tight, but they looked terrible. Went back to the hardware store and got 6 of these do dad's, that are made to drill a hole in wood, slide them in, and anchor them with brads or small nails, into 3 holes. They worked great. The shank was the exact size of the holes in the sewing machine base. Ran the do dad's down the all thread and got them kind of snug. Couldn't think of anything I had to fit in 3 little holes to pull them down tight. Ahha, an old set of snap ring pliers. Got them pretty tight. Went to bed very happy with the results. This morning went out to put another coat of paint on, and see if I could Jerry rig a tool to screw the do dads down real tight. As soon as I walked up, I just went, OH NO, I can't believe what I did. I put the pretty Singer Logo side in, and the flat patent date side out. To top it off, I hammered the ends of the all thread round so they wouldn't show. Now, I'm going to have to grind the ends off each side to take it apart. I did have one revelation. The brad holes in the do dads are very small in comparison of how wide the rim is. I think I can drill them out a little bigger. Then drill a block of Oak with 3 matching holes and use small screws to fit. Hopefully that will work to get it good and tight when I put it back together. I'm leaning toward going with an Oak top, I just don't think the Redwood looks right on it.
  4. I forget how long it is, maybe 5'. I should know, I moved it from the old trailer to our new bunk house this morning. Two grown men can set very comfortably on each side and one on the end. My old hunting camp had/has a 1959 house trailer on it. Three years ago a mouse got in bed, and bit me on the thumb. I told my wife I was cashing in my UPS stock and buying or building a new bunk house. It took three years, but last night we slept in the new building for the first time. Base board heat kept us toasty at 46* outside. I bought a 12'X40' garage package, then bought two skids of 1" thick interior Pine paneling 16' and 20' long. It's taken about a year and the inside is almost finished. It's close enough we will be staying in it for deer season this year. As ssoon as I get the new table pics uploaded, I'll post them.
  5. I have to agree with Mark, they don't bring much at auctions. A friend takes them apart and makes night stands out of them. They are beautiful, and it breaks my heart that he takes all the machine parts to the scrap yard for scrap price. We had an old local restaurant that had all the dinner tables made on old sewing machine bases. When they went out of business, my friend bought all of them for $20 a piece. In the last 6-8 years the most I've seen very nice ones sell for is about $75. I saw one sell for over $100, but an interior decorator bought it for a project house and was going to double the price to her client. I bought the two base pieces of the sewing machine and two bases for a cast iron framed school desk. The desk top is on the back, for the kid behind you. The seat folds up so you could stand and let other kids get by. I think I paid $10 for both sets of bases. I carried them out to my truck, and forgot to go back for the sewing machine. There were a few parts on it I wanted for other projects, but I didn't realize I left the other stuff there, and it was a 2 1/2 hour drive, so I couldn't go back.
  6. You can see the doors on the floor, the farthest one away, the boards look like they are smaller and don't match up well. The boards were 30+ years old, some were 6", some 6 1/2" and some 5 1/2 ". I built the left door first, and was very careful to only use 6" boards. I got tired and careless and grabbed a stack of 5 1/2" boards to finish the "X" pieces on the right door. When I slid them together my heart dropped. i had to take that door apart and rebuild it with 6" boards. Somewhere I have pics of the doors hanging, they turned out well. They were very heavy, a good 100 pounds per side. I made small doors for two powder rooms. They loved them, they still haven't grown on me. If i can find the finished pics, I'll post them, Joe.
  7. I made these for a friends Timber Framed home on Black Mountain NC. The boards are all 30-50 year old 1"X6" White Oak fence boards from another friends farm.
  8. Sometimes I almost feel guilty or ashamed posting pics of some of my projects. Most are not high skill level. I do have some pretty nice equipment, and can do pretty nice work when prodded. Most of what I do is just for fun or man cave type stuff. We have hunting property in WV. My parents put a very nice 42 foot trailer on it back in the 70's. As the older guys started dying off, or trailer went into disrepair. It still has power and a fridge and stove. no plumbing. We put an 8X12 addition on the back that kept it in use for another ten years. About 3 years ago, while asleep, a mouse bit me on the thumb. I told my wife I was buying or building a new bunk house. The first thing I saw was this 12X40 garage. It now has a 100 amp service, electric base board heaters, A/C, 5 burner cook top. Every thing but plumbing. All of the interior Pine paneling came from an auction, the big picture window came from the old house trailer. Probably have less than $1000 into turning it into a bunk house.
  9. The 37" wide Pine table was milled on my property in WV. The hinges are inlayed in the table and it folds up against the wall with a paddle to hold it in place. it's one of my favorites.
  10. I think I might be able to find a couple pics. I tend to keep my barbarian wood working skills away from real craftsmen, but since you asked?
  11. Oh, our friend is feeling better, and the wedding got postponed till spring, so I have time to work on the table.
  12. Sorry, it's been a while getting back. We had a bit of a scare a couple weeks before my nieces wedding. My wife's friend who was donating the use of her house and yard for the wedding, had a severe A-Fib attack. She's been in and out of the hospital since, mostly in. They had to take her to Washington Hospital Center and ZAP her 3 different time. When they zap her, her heart will resume a normal heart rate for 8-10 days, then go wonky again. I was at a farm auction 2-3 weeks ago and picked up a Singer treadle sewing machine base and a cast iron desk frame with folding seat. I decided to use the Singer base. I took a scrap piece of Dawn Redwood and mounted it on the base. It doesn't fit, and the base is wobbly, so don't hold that against me. The base has holes for 3 heavy rods that stabilize it, of course they were missing. I'm going to use black plumbers pipe with a piece of all thread through the middle. That should stiffen it up. Ran the Redwood through the planer to get both sides close to flat and parallel, then painted on some old Helmsman Spar Urethane. It was the only thing on the garage shelf last night. I had to rip a hole in the solidified glob to get some liquid out. Please don't hold that against me either. Got a new can of Satin Min Wax Poly. I'll try that on the flip side of the test piece later today. Here's the first test run, I like it so far, Joe.
  13. Thanks, that looks fantastic. I'm going to show it to Madison, I'm sure she will love it too.
  14. Yes the saw runs, it's a 1968 Poulan Super 68, 82CC's, with a 31" bar and 1/2" chain. The chain has been obsolete for 30 years and sells for $1.50-$2.00 per LINK. I found an old dealer in WV that has 2, 100' rolls. He wouldn't sell me a roll, said I didn't have enough money. Then cut me a loop for $30. Next time I go by I'm going to see if he will cut me a loop for the 45" bar on my Homelite Super 1050, 100CC's. My Dad bought two of them brand new in the 70's. I still use this one for milling logs. JD paint was 10 bucks a can, I think I bought 10 cans and still have a couple left over. Paint, new tires, and steel stringers, I'm right at $500 into it. My friend that gave it to me had it for 30 years and never knew it dumped. The trailer is still made and is about $700 new. Plenty of projects. I make Blue Bird boxes out of short cut offs. Natural gray finish for outside use. Sanded and sealed for inside decoration. I also make L shaped shelves for displaying Lionel trains. Cut to length, Lionel track mounted to board. I used to be able to make the shelves to order up to 16'. But, my friend sold a 10 acre section of fenced property. the new owner wanted electric fence, and the guy putting it in said he would get rid of the old fence for $2000. They said NO, Doc wanted to keep all of the PT fence posts and any good boards for patching the rest of the fence around her 120 acres. Next day we came in and the fence guy took a chainsaw and cut all the boards 6" out form the posts, and cut all the posts off. Now I have a couple hundred 6 1/2' boards. Here's a mortice and tenon bench I made many years ago with one of my favorite old saws. A collector offered me more money than I paid for my first 3 cars for it. So, it lives in Australia now.
  15. My niece is getting married in a few weeks. She originally wanted a round piece of wood that she could have every one sign, instead of a registry. I told her round pieces 99.9 percent of the time eventually check and crack. I told her I could cut a piece off a 3" thick live edge slab and make a small table, plant stand, night stand. The wood I have available is, all air dried at least 5 years, Dawn Redwood, Spalted Maple, Spalted White Birch, Red Oak, Fir. I'm leaning toward the pink and white Redwood, or the Spalted Maple. I asked a cabinet maker friend how to prep and seal the wood, yesterday morning. Last night he called back and said he took some scraps of White Oak and did some testes. He sanded with 320, cleaned, and signed with a ball point pen. It wrote on the wood well. He let it dry then tried to apply a varnish. It instantly washed the ink off. Then he signed with the ball point, let it dry, and applied polyurethane. He said it looked fantastic and the writing was crystal clear. I'm afraid the ink will eventually get sucked into the wood. Felt tip markers seemed to bleed, get fuzzy and get sucked up. Does anyone know the proper way to prep and seal raw lumber so the signatures will last many years?
  16. I think I remember posting pics of the sliding barn doors I made from the same fence boards, for a friends timber framed home on Black Mountain NC. My old cell crashed and I lost most of my gallery, looks like the doors got lost, Joe.
  17. My plan is to mill a 7'X36" Ash log to have a flat bottom so it can't roll, cut grooves in it, and mount some of my chainsaw collection on the log for display at the county fair. Eventually I'd like to have 3 of these wagons end to end, like real hay wagon.s, full of saws and axes.
  18. Then they got 4 coats of Helmsman Spar urethane and the steel stringers from a 72 Chevy wood bed pickup.
  19. Then starts the fun part. My Veterinarian/friend has a horse farm. It's fenced in with a 4 board, White Oak fence. Boards are rough cut 1"X6"X16' long. These boards are all 30 to 50 years old. I ran them through the planer till I took just the right amount of gray off, and got just the right amount of golden yellow coming through.