Bmac

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Bmac last won the day on August 26

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About Bmac

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    Journeyman Poster

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    Male
  • Location
    ...Delaware
  • Woodworking Interests
    Addicted to working with wood esp chairs and sculptured furniture. Most of my pieces made from lumber milled with my chainsaw

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  1. Yes Coop, it's a deep chair. I think it wouldn't be too hard to move the backrest forward, it would just be changing the location of 2 cuts. The other thing is they are very wide, much wider than the Low Back. That may not be a big problem, but could be if you have a desk with limited leg/knee/foot space. Changing the width is more difficult as you would need to change the pattern. If you want any measurements of the final chair just ask, I'll get them for you. Submitted and they are now posted on the guild site.
  2. Thanks. Yes, went with the PolyX Oil, Clear Satin.
  3. Yes, I thought about that glue squeeze out also, this could be a problem. With applying the finishing I was thinking that cutting the strips and then gluing would allow you to prefinish before the glue up. Prefinishing might help with glue cleanup also. But if you can manage the sanding and applying finish your way then I'm all for it, your getting a real unique look. One last thought, I was also wondering about the look where the strips separate, right where you stop your bandsaw cut. That area/slot has a square look at the end of the cut, and don't get me wrong it doesn't look bad. But I'm envisioning with a glue up would create a V look with no square slot. It's very minor but it could give a different illusion. Always fun to talk about approaches to design, it really puts the art into what we do. You have a good eye and I'm sure your approach is going to work well, just wanted to share my thoughts.
  4. I would think that should not be a problem, but it has to be fully cured. I went to their website and the instructions don't say anything about a wax topcoat. Looking at the directions it's clear the problem I had was I applied too much and didn't wipe it down enough. It says specifically on their site you need to briskly rub down after application until the surface is completely dry. My guess this was your issue also. Here's the instructions for Tried and True Danish Oil (from their website); Danish Oil A superior penetrating linseed oil finish that is polymerized for fast and easy application on interior woodwork and furniture. It is also ideal for wood paneling, cabinets, salad bowls, wood utensils, butcher blocks and surfaces that come in contact with food. Danish Oil Finish is commonly used by woodworking professionals for application to bare wood or overtop an already-stained piece. Danish Oil will darken the wood slightly and can be combined with oil-based pigments to create wood stains. Danish Oil Application Instructions For all INTERIOR woodworking Apply a very thin coat across entire piece with a lint-free cloth at room temperature. DO NOT USE A BRUSH! A dry to wet color change in the wood should occur, but at no point should there be any puddling. A little bit of finish will go a long way! Allow Danish Oil to penetrate the wood for a minimum of 5 minutes. Rub in briskly with a lint-free cloth until the surface is completely dry. DO THIS BEFORE YOU LET THE PIECE CURE! Drying/curing issues will occur if this step is ignored! If little or no residue comes up on the clean cloth during this step, then you have used the correct amount of finish. Allow the piece to cure for a minimum of 8 hours. Burnish with a soft cloth or 0000 steel wool BEFORE EVERY COAT (even the first and last.) The more you rub the surface, the better the sheen will look. Additional coats will deepen the sheen and increase protection. Care & Maintenance: Use a shammy cloth to polish any dull areas. Clean surface using Murphy’s Oil Soap or other wood safe cleaners. To repair any scratches, nicks, or water marks: Use 0000 grade steel wool to buff out as much of the affected area as possible. Then, use a lint-free cloth to apply a small amount of the Danish Oil to the damage wood. Follow the normal recommended application directions. For watermarks — if damage is severe, sand water mark away using fine grit sand paper until it is smooth and even with the surrounding surface. Reapply the Danish Oil to the water mark by following the normal recommended application directions. Remember to always protect the wood surface using coasters or anti-scalding devices. .
  5. Well Coop, looks like you are ready to tackle another sculptured chair. You have more time on your hands and a new tool. Which one will it be?
  6. Well you said you are trying to get a more delicate look and I like where you are going with this. I think I like the one without the middle piece, less cluttered. But still leaving the middle piece would work very well also. Really interested in seeing how this turns out. One thing that comes to mind with looking at how you did this was how are you planning to sand and finish in the tight spaces where your bandsaw cut is. I was wondering if you thought about getting the same look by cutting strips and gluing up the pieces at the ends (gluing just the area where you didn't cut with the bandsaw). That might give you more control and possibly a few other advantages with sanding and finishing.
  7. I'd buff the heck out of it, maybe multiple times and reevaluate to see if you should finish with something else, like a hardwax finish. I've used that finish a couple of times and I can't say it is a favorite of mine. The first time I used it was on my oak workbench and it seemed to not dry correctly. I didn't see flake or white crystals but I did have the wood seemingly "sweat" out oil. In hindsight I think I applied to much and did not wipe down adequately. The problem resolved itself after I vigorously wiped the bench down a few days straight. Since it is a workbench I was fine with the result in the end but frustrated with the product. Since my first use, I've used it on a few smell things, mainly boxes and such, I've been very specific with wiping of the piece after I applied and let it sit. I've wiped vigorously and left no excess residue between coats and that has helped tremendously with this finish. Still is not my favorite, only use it occasionally, mainly because I bought it and I am trying to use it up.
  8. Explain again where this piece fits into the table. Is it taking the place of the slats between the legs? I like both designs but can't decide until I can envision what your shooting for in the end.
  9. Bmac

    Spalted hackberry

    It's my understanding that the fungi responsible for spalting stops breaking the wood down under a certain moisture content, something like around 20% and kiln drying kills most of the fungi. But you are right that it's a little counter intuitive to build with partially rotted wood. To me spalted wood does well as door panels or in small pieces as was mentioned before. I think it's always nice to have some on hand for that special project.
  10. Thanks for that link, it was interesting to see all the love given to the RAS. Mostly I hear people call it a dog or an underpowered wannabe grinder. I find it to be a cleaner and acceptable alternative to the grinder. I purchased an extra pad and some adhesives just to have them, don't want to get stuck without.The saphire discs that go on the RAS are the most durable sanding disc I've used. They last forever.
  11. Not often you can get a Festool on sale, almost a third off. Free shipping to boot. I realize these were not one of Festools best sellers, but; https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/festoolras11504e4-12rotarysander.aspx?utm_source=ActiveCampaign&utm_medium=email&utm_content=Last+Chance+to+Get+Free+Shipping+at+Highland+Woodworking!&utm_campaign=free+shipping+2nd+send I actually really like this tool, combined with 24 grit and a vac you can do some aggressive shaping with pretty decent dust collection. Now I can't say that it's as aggressive as a grinder with Holey Galahad discs, those discs are definitely faster and the holes in the discs are nice. What is not nice is the way they create a mess. I'm wondering if Festool is replacing this tool with one similar?
  12. Some quick searching on the web I was surprised to find out that the strength of sweet gun is comparable to cherry. Thought it was softer like Nut had mentioned. It has favorable characteristics to steam bending and can be a pretty wood. I would say if you have the time and energy it is a wood that could work for you if, and it's a big if, you can get flat stable stock out of the logs. I assume quartersawing will help but it still moves a lot. Here's a nice link from a wood guru, Gene Wengert, he actually comments that it is one of his favorite species that is overlooked as a premium and relatively strong wood. https://www.woodworkingnetwork.com/wood/wood-explorer/sweetgum
  13. I totally agree, you made that red oak look really nice. I'll bet that thing weighs a ton.
  14. This one's a wrap. Very pleased how it turned out and the alterations I made to the Hank chair I think worked well. So let me take a few minutes reviewing the project and giving you my thoughts if you are thinking of purchasing it. The instruction videos were solid, not as detailed as Marc's videos, but still they were good. Jory has an easy way about him and it's amazing how he will go with the flow. He is not really strict about measurements, but he does develop systems that create consistency. He relies on dominos for his joinery and this makes the construction rather straight forward. This lends itself well to alterations to the plan. His template system is neat and really worth learning, I see incorporating this in future projects. I could easily seeing someone take this project and developing other pieces of furniture very easily. I'm already considering a love seat or couch. You could use the same sides or slight variations and just make a longer seat. Another aspect of this build that was very simple, but a new technique for me was the leather seat cushion. I was amazed at how easy this was and I will definitely use this on future chairs. I will say I thought the straight forward joinery with the domino system was not very challenging, and if you follow as it's presented, there really is minimal handtool utilization. Also, Jory uses a router for a lot of stuff, and it is not my favorite tool. I incorporated some handtools in this build, mainly rasp work for some shaping. So those are my thoughts, and now some pics of the final product; This looks like a perfect setting to have a glass of scotch and a nice cigar as two friends debate politics, religion, or sports. Thanks for looking and thanks for following along.
  15. Bravo! They look great and it's bonus to read your post project recap/thoughts. Enjoyed following along.