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Bmac last won the day on July 10

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About Bmac

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    Addicted to woodworking, esp chairs and sculptured furniture. Love harvesting and milling my own lumber with my trusty chainsaw

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  1. I've been negligent in updating this. Finished up the build about a week ago and applied the finish (2 coats Osmo). Now I'm waiting on my upholstery guy, who took the month of July off. I'll get him the piece later this month and he is ordering the fabric, so I should be first in line when he reopens. Well enough small talk, back to the build; Last thing I needed to complete was the seat frame. I struggled to figure this out, because in reality the space for the seat frame was not totally square. In gluing up this long piece and doing it in sections I was really happy with how close I actually got to square, but I was worried if I built the seat frame and tried to fit it to the space it would be a headache. So my solution was to build the frame in the space instead of outside the space. I figured with the dominos everything should just slide together, and then I would assure I had a good fit in all the crucial areas. So here's the seat frame dry fitted together; For assembly I started by gluing in the back piece, here it is in place with the mortises and the 3 critical cross supports. These cross supports are critical because they will be glued to the sides and the middle leg and will act as reinforcements to racking. You can also see in this pic I added some extra support behind the front underneath cross piece for the seat panel to sit on: Here's how one critical area looks. I glued two blocks to the side frame, the back of the seat frame is glued in place, and I'll glue the cross piece of the frame to the blocks and the side; And here's how that piece will fit in place, so you can see I've got a lot of good long grain to long grain gluing surface; The plan is to glue the cross pieces into the back piece via dominos, also glue the cross pieces to the front underneath support, and then glue the front of the seat panel into the cross pieces via dominos while gluing it down to the front underneath support, all at the same time. This was going to be a difficult glue up, so I used Titebond Extend, and the domino mortises were cut wider then the dominos, as putting the front of the frame into 13 dominos at the same time required a little wiggle room. Here's the front piece of the seat frame with the domino mortises; And here's the glue up, no time for pics during this complicated glue up; So after I was done with that I changed my underwear and did some clean up sanding which was very minimal as I used the glue sparingly in the final glue up. And here's the final piece with the finish; Now I just need to be patient with my upholstery guy, but overall I was very pleased with the result and i think it will look nice when the cushions are done. let's hope my wife agrees!
  2. I feel for you and am sorry to hear that. People want custom stuff but are often not willing to pay for the headaches they cause by being demanding with custom stuff. I hope you are getting adequately compensated. In my profession I deal with colors all the time. People just don't understand all that goes into a color match, and with teeth it's even more complex. You've got value, chroma and hue that all play a role in color matching. Most dentists, when confronted with fixing a discolored tooth in the front of the mouth have taken to treating the front 6 rather than just the one, that way they have control over the color. I view this as practically malpractice, but who can blame them with a picky patient. I have become more and more reluctant doing "cosmetic work" and if I am confronted with fixing a discolored front tooth I set low expectations, charge more and send them to the lab for custom staining. I will not accept anything less in doing those cases. People just don't know what they don't know about color, and a lot of other things for that matter.
  3. I'm taking you up on this suggestion, ordered one despite having the Incra 1000HD and the miter express. I've love the Incra, and there is no doubting it's accuracy, but the Harvey gauge has more features and looks more user friendly. Now My Incra 1000HD can stay on the miter express, which I do use fairly often when cutting wider panels. I could probably partially retire the miter express if I got a track saw.
  4. I do not envy that finishing schedule you have ahead of you, but the customer wants what the customer wants. When asked to match the existing furniture in the room you can almost always guarantee a headache. Sometimes it's almost better to not try and match and do a complimentary color/stain/finish, as a poor match may standout more than the complimentary color/stain/finish. But again the customer wants what the customer wants.
  5. It's blueberry season here in Delaware, and it's been a record crop for me. Love this time of year. Just our haul from picking for an hour after work last night; This is still what the bushes look like after last night's picking;
  6. I've been going at a snail's pace, weekend trips to the beach, a fishing trip, and a garden and yard that has eaten up a lot of time. But I'm still plugging away. I have the frame put together and the seat cushion supports will be the last step. Here's my progress so far; These supports will anchor the seat frame, you can see how the back panel fits to the side, a lot of long grain gluing surface; Corner supports here for the middle leg, the middle leg does not have an arm for added stability; So I should be able to get the seat panel together this weekend!
  7. Wow, marvelous! The base looks so delicate!
  8. Loving this Paul and thanks for your responses to my multiple questions! One quick followup ques, so the back slats are attached to the crest rail and the bottom rail, but they do not attach to the back of the seat frame, correct?
  9. So @pkinneb, I just keep coming up with questions on this build, it looks complicated for sure, but I do think there are some aspects of the build that he has made easier with the jigs. So if you don't mind being so inquisitive, here are some more questions, for now... The back support, are those individual slats attached to the back of the seat frame? I looks to me as though they are not attached, but I wasn't sure from the pics. Did he discuss bent lamination in place of steam bending? I'm thinking with the ebonizing the grain match won't matter as much, but I'm interested if both techniques would work. I had the same line of thought as @Chestnut, ebonizing walnut seems odd. Do they use different woods at the school for this chair or just walnut (like cherry, oak, etc)? As for the arms, I now see the dowel in the top of the front legs in your pic where everything is deconstructed. It also looks like you'll get a decent area of long grain to long grain surface area for gluing the arm to the arm/back leg piece. Will you still have the dowel extend into the top piece that forms the arm or will you just rely on the long grain gluing surface? With the shaping and sculpting, what do they teach in regards to tools? Finally, good luck finding some air dried walnut. I've got a lot of it here in Delaware and if you lived closer I'd be happy to help out. Thanks in advance for your patience with all my questions and thanks again for sharing this!
  10. This is my kind of journal. Thanks for posting Paul. Few questions; First, with the steam bending it's my understanding there usually is a little bit of spring back. I've always wondered if thats the case, how is detailed joinery done if you get a little spring back? Are the bent pieces oversized slightly and the jigs and patterns correct this? Or is this spring back I'm concerned about not a problem? Secondly, is that a through dowel that will join the front leg, back leg, and arm? Finally, will you be doing the upholstery?
  11. It's been a few weeks since I last posted on the progress of the couch. Even though there is not much to report, I do have a quick update. Arms are now glued onto the sides and shaping/sculpting is completed. I went with a little different arm shape, mimicking Morley slightly, I think I like it. I hope my wife likes it to. Not a lot to say here, just arms secured in front by 1/2" dowel and in back by glue and screw. You can see here I did not have think enough stock for my arms, the 1/2" or so addition is visible at the arm/leg joint. Right now it blends pretty good, we'll see once the Osmo is applied; I really scooped out the area where the elbow should rest, and where someone will lean against the arm when reclining; And that's about as close as I can get to mirror image when shaping is done freehand; So I'm really almost done the carcass. I'll be gluing up the parts I've made next. Everything so far is sanded to 320. Last piece to make is the seat frame, which I plan to make after I glue up the back and front support.
  12. Yes, I feel much safer using the router table compared to a handheld router. I also think I can be more accurate with a table. Learning how to use a starting pin on the router was super nice in regards to controlling the piece I'm routing. I have a mid level table made by Kreg, works fine for my purposes. but I am not a heavy router user by any means. The handheld router is my least liked tool in the shop, mainly because t's so noisy and messy. The router table makes it tolerable.
  13. Absolutely sanding is required, rasps do not leave a smooth surface. But what rasps do well is shape and blend the surface, taking the irregularities out of the surface so sanding can can result in a smooth surface. Cheap rasps will work, but the nice ones are a lot better. They leave a relatively smooth surface, esp with the less coarse rasps. I never thought I'd ever use rasps as much as I do now, as I use them in projects I just keep finding new ways to use them.
  14. In regards to the spindle sander, it's a real nice tool to have, esp for small stuff. With bandsaw boxes you really can't sand the inside as the fit is predicated on the slightly irregular cut lines matching up for gluing. I guess you can always sand the inside surfaces you are not gluing, but I've found that unnecessary, flocking works great there. Sanding the outside of the boxes with the spindle sander is possible. But for me cleaning up bandsaw cuts mean rasps, rasps, and rasps. Spokeshaves are also nice but you need to watch the grain direction. Rasps have no such worry and they can be aggressive or fine. Fairing a curve with a rasp allows for a lot of control. The length of the rasp can be used to your advantage. With a spindle sander you only have a single point of contact. If you have a dip it can easily just follow that irregularity. The width of the rasp gives you more surface area, but the are times you can position the rasp at a skewed angle or even length wise on the curve to really increase the surface area, this really helps fairing convex radii. For concave radii you need to rely more on just the width of the rasp.
  15. Where I left off was I had the couch framework dry fitted together. Before I took apart the frame I noticed one back frame slightly lower than the adjoining frame. When I took everything apart I checked and I made a slight error with a measurement. The back frame is supposed to sit 1.5" below the seat frame. I measured 1.75" by mistake. In correcting the mistake I got my self mixed up and moved the mortise hole .25 in the wrong direction. So I said enough of this, filled in the domino mortise with a half of a domino and finally got the mortise in the right place. Next up was fitting the arms on to the sides. No weird angles here everything was at 90 degrees to each other. This went very easily; That blocky bulky arm now needs to be shaped and sculpted to look like I envision. Using rasps, the Festool RAS, and a sander with an interface pad I was able to quickly rough out the shape I'm after. The shape has a somewhat similar profile to a Maloof arm and I added a detail that Phillip Morley adds to the arm of his lounge chair. Mixing these two shapes results in what I consider a pleasing shape; Top view; Underside; And on the chair side; Progressing nicely......