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Bmac last won the day on July 18

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About Bmac

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    Journeyman Poster

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    Addicted to working with wood esp chairs and sculptured furniture. Most of my pieces made from lumber milled with my chainsaw

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  1. The best woods to use are the lightest you can get, but you are right in saying you can practically use any wood if you don't care about the weight. The emerging wood used today is Paulownia. It's light but very strong for it's weight. It's decay resistant and doesn't absorb water, esp saltwater like Balsa. Balsa, along with it's tendency to absorb water, is not nearly as strong as Paulownia. Cedar, Redwood, and even Pine are okay choices for a board, but my research clearly shows Paulownia has the best strength to weight ratios and is the way to go. I harvested my Paulownia from my property. The trees were planted by me in 2000, right after we finished the house and moved in. I planted 10" seedlings and it is one of the fastest growing hardwood. I never planned to use these trees for boards, but I had a softspot for this tree. My grandparents had this tree next to their farmhouse, and growing up I loved the smell of the flower this tree produces in the spring. My grandfather eventually had to take the tree down and it was then I got a chance to work a little with some of the wood. I never forgot that and had always planned to raise some of these trees on our 10 acre property, just turned out that they were the perfect tree for surfboards. For those intrigued by this wood and it's evolution into these specific uses, look at these links;
  2. Spent a fair amount of time pushing through this project, but I will run out of time to get it finished by Fri. Still, here's my progress. Began shaping the rails. When you shape your rails you can chose a harder or softer rail. Basically a soft rail has an even curve from the top of the board to the bottom. A harder curve has more weight and a slight edge on the underside, it's curved evenly to this edge. I went with a soft rail. Here you can see the rail at the early stages of shaping, got to this stage with the RAS 115 and some rasps; Alittle more shaping.... And starting to look better.... When you look closely at the next 2 pics you can still see the rail is slightly wavy and not perfectly smooth, this fine tuning will take a while; Here I'm getting ready to attach the tail. The blocks are attached to the tail piece via a long grain glue joint and the blocks fit into the hollow part of the board; Try in goes smoothly; Used a few clamps as cauls and glued on tail; Did the same this for the front piece, same technique and similar result; Had a little time this AM and I couldn't resist, rough shaped the tail; And it's starting to look like a real surf board; A lot of shaping and sanding still left. I also need to make a glassing stand. I plan to do that with 5 gallon buckets, some 2x4s, plywood scrap, rocks and rags. If that doesn't make sense then wait for my next series of photos. I'll likely be away from this project until next week. Thanks for looking.
  3. Yes a lot like a torsion box. And it is weird, quite a bit a free form shaping and designing. Plans don't call to leak test. I think diligence with the glue up, glassing and sealcoating is supposed to do the trick as far as leaks go. The early wood surfboards leaked, they planned for that and had a drain hole in the base, they would open up the drain and stand them up and drain them after surfing for the day.
  4. I got the reference plans from this site; Here is a link to an e-book I'm using, same author as the plans on the link above but on a different site; What I like about these plans is they walk you through the whole process of fabricating your own frame (spar) to the final product. The decks are glued on and I started with the top deck and glued the middle board first. Then I added boards to the sides of that board and worked out to the edge of the board. After the top deck was glued on I attached the bottom deck, starting in the middle again and working my way out. I wish I took a few more photos. So looking at the pic below you see the attached top deck (facedown on bench) and I'm about to attach the lower deck. If you look at the frame you might be able to tell I glued on 3/8" strips to the plywood frame. These strips allowed me to get an edge the clamp could use for clamping pressure; Heres another photo with out the top deck, you can clearly see the strips attached to the plywood frame; Does this explanation help?
  5. Got a few things down on this last night and early this AM before work. I'm pushing to get this finished up by tomorrow night, when we head to the beach for the weekend. If I don't get it done by then I won't have a chance to get it down there for 3 weeks. I added all the side pieces to build up enough bulk for shaping the side rails; Used a circular saw to cut off the ends, and squared them up for addition of the front and back to the board; The tail end; The top or front of the board; Sized a few blocks and glued one of them to my tail piece, still need to attach the second block and glue piece on, but this is how I'll attach the tail; Once I glue on the tail and front piece I need to shape the rails and sand the board. This photo gives you an idea of how I plan to shape the rails, you can see how toward the end the rail is rounded over and blended to the top, the big chuncky strip of wood at the bottom of the photo will be mostly ground away and blended in with the rest of the rail. I have a lot of shaping to do, this is where the Festool RAS 115 with 60 grit will get the job roughed out quickly and my rasps will refine the shape ; Here's a cut off piece so you can really see the construction method. You can notice the side rails are partially hollow and the shaping has begun.
  6. Really nice inlay work on the top of that! I agree with Nut, took a double take on that end grain thinking it was walnut. I'd love to see a side shot.
  7. Yes, there are a lot of videos on glassing. Of course it's one thing to watch it, but another to do it. I can tell it will be messy. With your windsurfing boards, what wood did you use for them?
  8. I'm making the board for my son who loves to surf. It's also a challenge that has been fun to tackle. Who knows I might just try to surf some after this build. What I really want to make for myself is a SUP (stand up paddleboard). I plan on putting that on my list if this goes well, I have plenty of paulownia wood left over for that and a few more boards. This project fits into my interests with a lot of shaping and some artistic license for design. The downside so far has been the seemingly 1 million glueups I've had to do!
  9. I think your basement has kept you plenty busy! I wouldn't call you a slug. I got the resin from a surf board supply store, made esp for boards. Says it's got UV stabilizers, whatever that means. I'm assuming this may be different stuff than regular, but we'll see. I also have an additive I'm supposed to add. All new to me.
  10. I've been playing hooky from my Hank Chair build. First I'm having trouble getting into that build, second I had to order a few router bits, and thirdly I think I have ADD. Well, while I was waiting on my order of router bits to arrive, I pulled down a framework I had made for a surfboard. I had put it together awhile back but the wood I planned to use for the project still needed some drying time. I milled 3 paulownia logs this past year specifically for this project. It dried real fast, but needed a few warm months to fully season. I milled it in Dec, and 2 weeks ago it was down to 12%. I started messing around with the frame and before I knew it I was knee deep into the build. And this build took up my whole shop, since it's a longboard, approx 10 ft. No room for the Hank chair. I thought this would be an interesting build to show, and even though I didn't take a ton of photos, here goes. First, I've been doing a lot of research on building a board. There are a few techniques, all resulting in a hollow board to reduce weight. Wood needs to be light and paulownia fits the bill perfectly. For those who have never worked with this wood it is an absolute pleasure to work with. Tools easily, bends well, and is SUPER light. I was originally planning to do this build with my son, but he is living at the beach this summer where jobs are plentiful. I plan to do the build and we plan to glass and finish the board together down at the beach. To start the build you create what they call the spar, it's basically a skeleton framework that the shell is attached to. I used 3/8" plywood for this. I bought a pattern for the spar. Printed it and glued it to the plywood, cut it out and shaped it. The skeleton was rather flimsy and did not have a lot of surface area to glue the deck boards to, so I supplemented the gluing surfaces with 3/8" paulownia strips. Here's what that looks like; High spots were leveled off and then I started laminating the deck. Starting with the center board, I worked out to the edges. I used Titebond 3, this was the recommended glue. The decking was just under 3/8" thick stock, resawn from the 6/4 boards I milled. The info I researched said 3/8' for balsa and 1/4" for paulownia, I split the difference. Here's the top deck roughed out and glued on; The plan calls for a relatively flat top deck and a curved underside. The curve on the underside is referred to as the rocker, here's the board ready for the underside, gluing up the last of the paulownia supplemental glue strips; Here's the underside completed, walnut accent like the top; From the side profile you can appreciate the curve of the rocker; Now it's a matter of squaring up the sides and start gluing on strips to form the rails. The rails are laminated pieces you glue to the sides that will be rounded off. I started with one solid strip and now I'm adding a decorative strip of walnut: Adding these strips have made me appreciate the number of clamps I own; The plan also calls for a fin, here's what I came up with; Where I'm at now is I need to finish gluing up the rails, shape them, add the front and back pieces that will make up the front and tail of the board. Final shaping and sanding is last. Once at that step you need to glass the board, which is adding fiberglass sheets to the board, epoxy will be used for this step. After glassing you add the fin, that is epoxied and glassed on separately, and then the whole board is sealed with a layer of epoxy. This is completely new territory for me so doing it at the beach seems best as there are a bunch of surf shops around in case my son and I need help. One other necessity with a hollow board it to install a vent. This is so if the board is sitting in the sun it won't heat up internally and start to delaminate or crack. I'm going to use a goretex vent that doubles as a leash attachment. I've glued a backer board on the inside for this and we'll install this after the glassing also. Thanks for looking.
  11. Yup, the price is alittle steep for those rasps, but not many things have changed my woodworking like they have. I don't think I could live without my rasps. They never seem to get put away, as I find myself using them time and again for things, usually for things that I never considered using them for when I bought them. If the price is too steep then put them on your Christmas list. You could get by with a a nice cabinet makers rasp, you can do a lot with that. Besides Auriou (which are the ones I own that I reach for the most), Woodcraft sells Liogier, and Gramercy makes a decent rasp that is somewhat less expensive. Putting a nice hand stitched rasp to wood is a lot like putting a nice plane to wood, the sound the feel and the result is impressive.
  12. Thanks for sharing and looks awesome. Flawless execution!
  13. Welcome also! When I read your post it says you are an amateur when it comes to these chisels, I'm an amateur to these chisels too, I think most on here will be also. I do assume you are not a total amateur to woodworking. I was curious and looked at some of your old threads and saw you are setting up a shop and interested in learning joinery, and Japanese joinery at that. Well a super high quality set of Japanese chisels would fit the bill for that. You seem to be willing to pay for quality. But I do have a few questions. Do you currently have a set of chisels? I think learning to sharpen and care for a less expensive set first would be a wise move. Also, you can always use a set of lesser quality chisels in the shop for cleaning up glue and other odd jobs, jobs you should not use your best chisels for. When you say you are getting them used for a good price, are you getting a significant discount? $2500 is pretty steep for most people's blood. They seem like a very high quality tool and should last a lifetime. You also ask if you need all those sizes, well it can't hurt, but it also depends on what you plan to make. When you inspect them, look for any knicks on the edges of the blade, make sure the handles are secure, and the backs are flat. I read in your link the maker personally sharpens and prepares each set before shipping, so they should be pristine if only used for one project.. So you are setting up a shop, is getting this set of chisels keeping you from buying other shop equipment? I don't want to get into your pocketbook, but it is a consideration. If you are looking to buy top shelf equipment, it will take a lot of cash to outfit a shop. As for me, I think I'd be hard pressed to buy that set, unless I got a really good deal. I do a mixture of power and hand tool work, trying to learn more hand work. Since I've not had experience with a set of chisels like that, I'm not sure if they would be worth it to me. I have 3 sets of chisels, a dovetail set and 2 standard sets (a knock around set and a somewhat nicer set). I do have a Japanese set on my wish list, but not a set like that. Bottomline is I think you can accomplish whatever you want to do with a less expensive set, but I do think it would be cool to own a unique set like that. It's only money,
  14. It's been so hot and humid here, you'll sweat even when you are just pushing buttons.
  15. With out a doubt, the most comfortable wooden chair I’ve ever sat in. That is not an exaggeration. I think the carved/sculptured seat, the backrest angle, and the shape of the back spindles make the chair so comfortable. Maloof got this chair right.