Bmac

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Bmac last won the day on April 19

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About Bmac

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    ...Delaware
  • Woodworking Interests
    Addicted to woodworking, esp chairs and sculptured furniture. Love harvesting and milling my own lumber with my trusty chainsaw

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  1. Coop, I've used Titebond Hide Glue, I liked it and it did give me more time for assembly. With that said, if i need more assembly time I usually go with Titebond II Extend, this is a nice glue for complex glueups. It is a little more runny than the other Titebond products, but I have confidence in this glue. Here's a link with the details; http://www.titebond.com/product/glues/21051713-5cce-4925-a653-3bff0a0f71ab I've really gotten away from epoxy, except it certain circumstances. I believe with really nice tight fitting joints it's easy to starve the joint with epoxy. Epoxy really is the strongest and sets better if it has some film thickness. A very thin layer of epoxy in a tight joint is not ideal. I know some believe starving a joint is a myth, and I think that may be the case with the traditional wood glues, but I do not think it's a myth with epoxy. Unfortunately I have a project I used epoxy on that had this problem. Epoxy does best in sloppy joints, that's why it works well in all those river tables and for filling in cracks or defects. But enough about epoxy, I'd go with the Titebond II Extend, nice product.
  2. It's a shame this forum has lost traffic, that loss has kept me from checking in as frequently as I once did. But saying that, and having looked into other forums, I prefer this over all others I've looked at. And the big reason for that is the quality of work done by those who participate here. There are some project journals on this forum that are just priceless/wonderful and the craftsmanship is often phenomenal. I also firmly believe I wouldn't be the woodworker I am today without this forum. It's pushed me to show my work and nothing has helped me grow more than that. The members here are so friendly and giving, it's really an encouraging atmosphere for developing woodworkers. This is a great place to learn, share and grow.
  3. I missed the final reveal on this. I just have to say GREAT JOB Mike! Turned out great!
  4. Thanks everyone for the compliments, and let me answer a few questions/thoughts brought up by your comments. First, yes I did consider doing the vertical slats on both sides, and I declined for a few reasons. I'm not sure if you can tell, but if you look closely the armrest with the slats is higher than the one without. I didn't like that and I thought it would be a comfort issue, but I wanted the extra hieght for back support and since the pillow sits there I wasn't as concerned with the height on the side the pillow sits. Second, I really wasn't sure how it would end up looking. I really struggled with the vertical slat idea and how to construct it. I made it shaped specifically in a concave manner for the pillow to rest and I didn't want pillows on both sides. In the end the vertical slats looked much better than I ever thought they would so I guess I would have been happy with the look if I did them on both sides, but the arm rest height still might have been an issue. In the end I embraced the asymmetry and said to myself this is what making custom pieces is all about. My upholstery guy looked at the couch a little funny at first, but when I explained his eyes lit up and he said that is what is beautiful about custom work, it's a one of a kind. Second, to answer @Chestnut, the pillow is just stuffed, no cushion foam. I'm not sure what he filled it with but it is soft and still full enough for support. And yes my wife does love it, she really never complains with what I make but this piece was critical. I used less firm cushions than I did in the couch and increased the drop from front to back at her request. I was considering webbing in the bottom seat frame but went with wood instead. I moved her old loveseat upstairs in one of our kids bedrooms (our oldest who recently moved out) and put it under a double window overlooking the back of our property, a perfect quiet place for her to sit and read, so she still can put her old comfortable seat back to use. My wife has no idea I plan to make new endtables and a new coffee table for the room, and that I ordered some new mid century lamps for the room to replace the more arts and crafts look of our old ones. But she won't mind and I think she'll be very happy with the end result of the room.
  5. Well many of you may remember I started this process awhile back. I wanted to redo the couch and sofa in our living room but was getting resistance from my wife, she was concerned about the comfort of these new pieces. Her main concern was the loveseat, it's where she mainly sits to read and watch the television. I knew I had some work to do to win her over. I started with the couch and shared that process with you last fall. Over the winter I got completely distracted with making fishing lures, but still was quietly plugging away at the design of the loveseat. Since it was going to have a wood frame I needed to figure out how to design it so the side she reclined on was comfortable enough for her. This took awhile and in the end I made an unique loveseat, where one side was designed differently than the other to hold a cushion in place. The construction was very similar to the couch but I changed a few things, mainly made the armrests higher, increased slightly the drop from the front to the back, went with softer seat cushions, and figured out how to add some vertical supports to the one armrest that would "hold" the cushion. The result was something that I was very pleased with and it is very comfortable, and most importantly I made my wife happy with the design. Here's a picture of the frame, sans the cushions; Here's a closer look at the armrest that holds the cushion; A quick shot with the seat cushions to show the difference in the armrests from side to side; And two final shots all assembled; So the conversion on the mid century modern look in my living room is almost complete. Now it's on to new endtables and a new coffee table. It's funny how one project can create others, but I'm not complaining.
  6. Always a great topic to discuss as I think movement of wood can be complicated and tricky. When confronted with fastening wood cross grain with each other I rely on a few simple rules. First, the width of the board plays a big role, a narrow cross grain attachment is not a big deal, a wide board is a big deal. As Chestnut stated above, fastening a wide board a at two points some distance from each other will not end well. Second, if it's a wide board than make just one point a fixed point and allow for movement of the rest of the board. That fixed point can be glued, a tenon (domino also), or a metal fastener. There are probably other fixed point fasteners I forgot. The fixed point can be located on one side or in the middle, and the choice often is based on which part of the board you don't mind the movement in. So with a panel in a frame you can fix the middle and allow for movement of the floating panel within the frame width wise on either side of the fixed point. With a bread board edge if you want the front of the piece to stay flush than put your fixed point in the front part of the bread board edge. So you can decide on which area is best for your project to stay fixed. Thirdly, with a wide cross grain situation, you often need additional fastening. Any other point should allow for movement and that can be done many different ways, but does not include any glue joints. It can be as intricate as a sliding dovetail or it can be as simple as a screw placed in a elongated hole, elongated in the direction of the wood movement. In your case that you were describing I would look for one fixed point and one point that allows for movement, you decide where you want it fixed and where you are okay with some movement. All solid wood moves, and the take home message is you can control wood movement by allowing it to move.
  7. Proud "redneck" sawyer here. Been slabbing wood for yearssss. No problems with my projects. All my wood is air dried, a pleasure to work with and you can get some beautiful lumber, and a lot of waste too. I understand grain orientation and typically flat saw my logs. From a log you get all types of grain orientation, including quarter sawn boards. Just need to understand what you are milling and what the log is giving you. I've even quartersawn some logs, not true quartersawn but the method where you quarter the logs and cut the board off each face. The key is patience and allowing it to dry. The advantagrs are many, cost, good stewardship of a resource, using wood from the same log for a project, easier to bend, and some pretty unique and beautiful wood. It's hardwork doing this but it is incredibly satisfying. You need to study how wood dries and how to properly store and mill it. Outside wood will reach a certain moisture content and will never be dry enough for using unless you finish it off in a controlled environment. Bottom line with all wood is it will also gain moisture as well as lose moisture. Kiln dried wood will eventually have the same moisture as my air dried wood has if both are stored in the same place. Commercially dried wood does take up moisture slower than air dried, but it still takes up moisture. When working a slab for a project I typically resaw a little wider than I need, let it acclimate and mill/process to final thickness. You will get some movement after resawing but I'm always surprised how it is typically minor. I also know if you are working with a commercially dried wood and resaw you can also get some movement. All wood builds up stresses while drying, doesn't matter how you dry it. I tend to believe the gentle nature and slower rate of air drying results in less built up internal stresses. Sure some of my slabs warp while drying, all wood does, I just let it warp and mill from there. I think commercially drying wood tends to build up more stress with the rapid nature of drying. Bugs or borers, again I'm on the look out for these all the time. I take precautions and I've used a borax solution on vulnerable species. Never has been an issue. Backyard sawyers that have not studied wood and it's nature are out there, and they do give use knowledgable sawyers a bad name. But that's ok with me, I'll keep using my milled wood for my projects and enjoy the results. With care and education on the subject I'm convinced it can be done well. And I too am sorry for hyjacking this thread!
  8. Great question Coop, all these plugs are thru-wired, no screws. I thru drill the blanks prior to turning on the lathe and a hole is placed mid-lure for a swivel. Hooks are then attached to the tail loop and the swivel hanging from the thru wire. Screw in hook hangers/eyes can be done but you are correct they are not as strong. Boy, a real tasty fish for sure. We get a few up into NJ in Aug/Sept, much more in the Carolinas. Not enough to usually target them in NJ.
  9. Waiting is always the hardest part. Looking good!
  10. You really can use a variety @Chet, depending on which lure you are making and what you want it to do. Lighter woods give more floatation and in some respects more action to a lure. Surface lures are often cedar or pine. I used paulownia (left over from surf board builds) for a lot of my lighter surface lures and weighted them. The big time makers swear by Alaskan White Cedar. Maple and birch are common more dense woods used, these are for lures you want to work below the surface, from there you weight them appropriately depending on the desired action. I used maple for quite a few and am trying some cherry also, alittle less dense than maple so it should have a little more floatation. I plan to move into some lipped lures next, studying those now, they are alittle more difficult, where and how much you weight them is critical. Since these are used in the surf you are really not looking to get a lot of depth, action of the lure is more key. With surface lures the way it sits in the water, depending on where and how you weight them, is also key. Here's a how to article from a plug maker, I'm making a bunch of these, it's pretty interesting and you can follow the process; https://www.thefisherman.com/article/plug-building-1-the-habs-needlefish/ And here's a link to a page with a bunch of builds; https://www.thefisherman.com/category/plug-lure-building/
  11. I'm as crazy about surf fishing as I am about woodworking. This winter I decided I would make a bunch of Classic Striper Coast surf lures, what better way to join together 2 hobbies. So after a bunch of research I got started and now I'm addicted. A lot of these classic wooden lures sell for $20 plus, and there is a growing group of independent producers cropping up all along the Northeast Coast. I don't plan to sell anything, but my fishing buddies are super excited that I plan to share my creations. Here are some classic designs, the Habs Needlefish, the Canal Hawg and a new classic the 2T Pencil; Some more Canal Hawgs, 2T Pencils and smaller Albie Pencils; A small school of Squids waiting to be employed; And finally, a production line started; So production starts with the design, then make a turning blank, thru drill that and then turn. Drill out you holes for hooks and weights. A dip in wood sealer, paint, coat of epoxy and then put together. It is very addicting!
  12. Very nice, solid design, an elegant look with a surprisingly simple design. Looking great!! That wiggly mortise making thingy is pretty nice isn't it!
  13. Maloof always said a screw is nothing more than a metal dowel or tenon and he believed it was better than a wood dowel or tenon. He did get some grief at the time by other woodworkers who were more "purists", but he nevertheless felt comfortable including screws in his work. As for the Maloof joint itself, if done well it's a very stable joint, but the screw does help reinforce it, esp when dealing with chairs that receive a lot of force. I'm sure a loose tenon or dowel would work for the joint, but the screw is very fast and easy here, and Maloof believed it was the strongest option. I for one won't argue with him.
  14. You are correct, this is the part of the build that can be so rewarding- sculpting the shape, the lines, the contours, it's always the most rewarding part of the build. Your design looks very good and I love that you are old school like me with the graph paper. I think this chair will sit really well. You've got a bigger drop from the front of the seat to the back of the seat than I did, I tried to lessen that drop and in the end I think I lessened it too much. I actually went back after the fact and cut 1.5" off my back legs on my finished car to increase the drop. It helped with the comfort of the seat. Keep up the good work!
  15. Looking very nice!! Following this one!