• Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Bmac last won the day on July 10 2021

Bmac had the most liked content!


About Bmac

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Woodworking Interests
    Addicted to woodworking, esp chairs and sculptured furniture. Love harvesting and milling my own lumber with my trusty chainsaw

Recent Profile Visitors

7620 profile views

Bmac's Achievements

Journeyman Poster

Journeyman Poster (2/3)



  1. Waiting is always the hardest part. Looking good!
  2. You really can use a variety @Chet, depending on which lure you are making and what you want it to do. Lighter woods give more floatation and in some respects more action to a lure. Surface lures are often cedar or pine. I used paulownia (left over from surf board builds) for a lot of my lighter surface lures and weighted them. The big time makers swear by Alaskan White Cedar. Maple and birch are common more dense woods used, these are for lures you want to work below the surface, from there you weight them appropriately depending on the desired action. I used maple for quite a few and am trying some cherry also, alittle less dense than maple so it should have a little more floatation. I plan to move into some lipped lures next, studying those now, they are alittle more difficult, where and how much you weight them is critical. Since these are used in the surf you are really not looking to get a lot of depth, action of the lure is more key. With surface lures the way it sits in the water, depending on where and how you weight them, is also key. Here's a how to article from a plug maker, I'm making a bunch of these, it's pretty interesting and you can follow the process; And here's a link to a page with a bunch of builds;
  3. I'm as crazy about surf fishing as I am about woodworking. This winter I decided I would make a bunch of Classic Striper Coast surf lures, what better way to join together 2 hobbies. So after a bunch of research I got started and now I'm addicted. A lot of these classic wooden lures sell for $20 plus, and there is a growing group of independent producers cropping up all along the Northeast Coast. I don't plan to sell anything, but my fishing buddies are super excited that I plan to share my creations. Here are some classic designs, the Habs Needlefish, the Canal Hawg and a new classic the 2T Pencil; Some more Canal Hawgs, 2T Pencils and smaller Albie Pencils; A small school of Squids waiting to be employed; And finally, a production line started; So production starts with the design, then make a turning blank, thru drill that and then turn. Drill out you holes for hooks and weights. A dip in wood sealer, paint, coat of epoxy and then put together. It is very addicting!
  4. Very nice, solid design, an elegant look with a surprisingly simple design. Looking great!! That wiggly mortise making thingy is pretty nice isn't it!
  5. Maloof always said a screw is nothing more than a metal dowel or tenon and he believed it was better than a wood dowel or tenon. He did get some grief at the time by other woodworkers who were more "purists", but he nevertheless felt comfortable including screws in his work. As for the Maloof joint itself, if done well it's a very stable joint, but the screw does help reinforce it, esp when dealing with chairs that receive a lot of force. I'm sure a loose tenon or dowel would work for the joint, but the screw is very fast and easy here, and Maloof believed it was the strongest option. I for one won't argue with him.
  6. You are correct, this is the part of the build that can be so rewarding- sculpting the shape, the lines, the contours, it's always the most rewarding part of the build. Your design looks very good and I love that you are old school like me with the graph paper. I think this chair will sit really well. You've got a bigger drop from the front of the seat to the back of the seat than I did, I tried to lessen that drop and in the end I think I lessened it too much. I actually went back after the fact and cut 1.5" off my back legs on my finished car to increase the drop. It helped with the comfort of the seat. Keep up the good work!
  7. Looking very nice!! Following this one!
  8. I’ve been waiting for this follow up post, looking great Paul!
  9. @Chestnut, here are the angles and drops that I ended up with. From the front of the seat to the back it's a 4 degree drop, which is effectively an 1.5" drop. The angle of the seatback to the seat is 8 degrees, resulting in a recline angle of the back to the floor of 102 degrees. What I'd tweak on this is a 2" drop and a final back angle to the floor more in the 105 range. My design, which I liked so much, made me come up with these above angles. But I did want more of an upright couch rather than a reclining one you sink into. I think with couches you could be between 100-110 degrees and be fine, with a 115 not out of the question. To me increasing the drop seems to always help with comfort. As for webbing in the seat I was concerned with integrity and strength in the piece. Webbing does give you some strength but the wood slats are stronger. Webbing likely would have worked though, and it would have made the seat more forgiving. You are right, we do tend to over build.
  10. @Chestnut, agree and I'm pleased that the look is not heavy handed or bulky. It's a lot less imposing of a couch than the one it replaced, and I think this makes the whole room look less cluttered. @Chet, couldn't agree more with that statement. It really puts the custom in custom furniture and it's a benefit of being able to design and build your own. A few thoughts on the seating. I've had the opportunity to sit on the couch for a few days and the upholstery guy used extra firm cushions for the seat and med firm for the back. I almost wish the seat cushions were a little less firm, but not a game changer. I also think I could have increased the angle slightly (rake or pitch) of the seat. Basically this is referring to the drop from front to back in the seat, I could have increased that drop. The angle of the back to the seat could have also been increased slightly. I discussed this with the upholstery guy and we even tried an angled or wedge cushion for the back cushion, but I didn't like that. The softer back cushion does effectively increase the recline angle slightly since when you sit the back cushion gives. So overall I think it sits well, but I'm going to make a few slight tweaks in the loveseat. I may even tweak this couch. Because I'd think it would benefit from more drop, front to back, I may cut off an inch off all the back legs on this couch. This is the quick and easy way to increase the rake.
  11. Thanks for all the compliments. But @Mark J brings up the real question; Well my wife is very easy going but she did have some feedback on this project, because I was hoping to parlay this into a matching loveseat build. If you guys remember her one request for the loveseat was being able to sit while leaning her back on the arm and having her feet on the loveseat. So this couch was a trial run for that project. Well she does love the couch, but the arm is too low for her to lean against it. I scooped it out and shaped it so putting a pillow there and leaning against it is comfortable, but it is too low and does not give her enough back support. So before I start the matching loveseat I have some thinking and designing to do. I'm thinking of a way to "wrap" the back, or extend the back to the one side she would lean against and just do the same arm as the couch on the other side. Or simply make the arm higher so there is more support. I'm not sure but it's these challenges that make this hobby so fun. I had enough foresight to buy enough of the fabric for the loveseat when the couch was upholstered.
  12. OK, it's been awhile, and my patience has finally paid off. My upholstery guy took the month of July off, and with the backlog of work he had to do I just got the couch back this week. So it's time to put a bow on this build. I like the fabric we picked, the cushions and couch look real clean and it sits very well. The MCM look is beginning to permeate my home, and this project will result in a few matching pieces for the room (love seat, coffee table, end tables). So here's the finally couch; Thanks for following along and I hope this was enjoyable to watch, I can say it was enjoyable to build.
  13. Using a skip tooth is nicer, I typically use a standard skip tooth with standard cutter angle and when I sharpen I try to take the tooth/cutter angle back to 10 degrees, basically converting it to a ripping chain during the sharpening process. There are other specialized ripping chains out there, most just have the decreased cutter angle in the teeth. Granberg makes one with different cutter widths, I have found it doesn't make much difference. The biggest difference is having a sharp chain, you get a little smoother surface with a lower cutter angle, but not really an increase in speed.
  14. Great job, How did that Stihl 084 run? I'm sure it made quick work of that log, or at least relatively quick work.