Bmac

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Bmac last won the day on July 1

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About Bmac

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    ...Delaware
  • Woodworking Interests
    Hobbyist, chair making, milling lumber with chainsaw mill, improving my skills

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  1. Bmac

    Tennessee Curly Cherry

    Thanks Dale.
  2. Bmac

    Workbench Build Ideas

    If you haven't yet read this, do yourself a favor and read this book; https://www.amazon.com/Workbenches-Revised-Design-Theory-Construction/dp/1440343128 I'm a believer of getting the most storage I can from any empty space, but the openness under a workbench is great for clamping work pieces to the top of the bench. If you fill the space with cabinets than you lose that option. Kev shows a great option, maintaining the openness yet adding some storage to a Roubo.
  3. Ok, that is expanding the concept of a M&T joint. I use dominos for alignment in almost all my butt, I mean M&T joints..
  4. Bmac

    When is dry rotted sapwood a concern?

    Walnut heartwood is very resistant to decay, you can use that with no worries. Wood that is resistant to decay (cedar, locust, osage, walnut, etc) all have sapwood that will decay. The heartwood is what is resistant to decay in wood. As Steve mentioned above, the sapwood was likely rotted/decayed when the wood was milled. There is a slight, but very small chance the sapwood decayed during the air drying. Lets put it this way, correct air drying technique will not cause degradation of the sapwood. Decay and rot cannot occur in wood if it is deprived of moisture, so once dried if the sapwood is solid than you can comfortably use it with your projects. The only caveat would be that the project will not be used outside. If building an outdoor project with decay resistant wood, I'd try to eliminate all the sapwood prior to construction. With this air dried stuff you purchased, you will need to cut away all the rotted sapwood and just use the heartwood, but you can use the heartwood with confidence.
  5. The joint question is just too limiting, depends on what you are making. Casework is different than chairs which is different than drawers/boxes which is different than.... Part of my enjoyment with working in the shop is learning new joints. Now, if you were to ask (and I think you are in a way) what are the most useful/versatile joints I'd agree with most on here that the M&T is at the top of the list for versatility and strength. You can make a whole chair using round M&T. The next joint would have to be a butt joint, don't think I could build much without using a butt joint. Chestnut mentioned a variety of this joint but I don't want to be that limiting with just long grain to long grain. Like others I would stick to what is accessible and plentiful for me, Walnut and Cherry.
  6. Bmac

    Tennessee Curly Cherry

    Fresh fish is good, that's for sure. By the way, ordered Morrison's plans for the Maloof side table and the music stand you showed in a post. I am finishing up the table, nice little project. Pretty quick and easy but really nice looking. I'm alittle intimidated by the music stand, really doesn't have directions with it, how did you go about putting that piece together, trial and error?
  7. Bmac

    Tennessee Curly Cherry

    Funny you should say that. It's been slow most of the last month, but that is the way it can be surf fishing. Had a good day this Friday when I had 3 fish off the beach, biggest fish was a 44", 33 pound Striped Bass. Caught it in nasty conditions, rain and a 25 mph wind in my face Less than ideal fishing conditions, but that kind of weather will sometimes bring in the big boys.
  8. Bmac

    Tennessee Curly Cherry

    I can’t tell from the photo, how much did it twist and warp? It looks really nice
  9. Bmac

    Tennessee Curly Cherry

    I cut almost all of my walnut at 8/4 or 9/4, really versatile that way, esp with the work I like to do. Resawing and bookmatching is always an option too with that thickness. It does make it harder work, those boards are going to be heavy.
  10. Bmac

    Tennessee Curly Cherry

    The key to minimize cracking is likely to slow down and control the drying rate. I'll cut it at 8/4 or 9/4. I think I may also paint it with anchorseal to slow the drying. Because the nature of a burl is such that the swirling grain means you end up with essentially exposed endgrain on your milled surface. Coating it with the anchorseal, starting the drying in winter, putting sun protective fabric around the pile, and putting the burl wood in the middle of the pile are the tricks I know to slow down air drying.
  11. Bmac

    Tennessee Curly Cherry

    When I get over to the farm next month I'll get a photo of this burl, it looks promising, but I've never cut a burl before so I'm not sure if there are tricks to how you cut them.
  12. Bmac

    Tennessee Curly Cherry

    No, trying to catch some fish right now. Likely start in Dec, really can't wait to start milling. I've got the one nice walnut I showed you and then I have a decent cherry and another big walnut on the family farm. That along with scrounging up another tree or two should keep me knee deep in lumber for the foreseeable future. My family farm also has a cherry with a big burl, what has been your experience with cherry burls?
  13. Bmac

    Tennessee Curly Cherry

    I guess it’s going to do what it wants to do
  14. Bmac

    Tennessee Curly Cherry

    Put that peach on the bottom of a bunch of maple, maybe that will help, or put some cinder block on it
  15. Bmac

    Tennessee Curly Cherry

    Well I'd air dry it because I don't have a kiln, but you can do either. I told you how much some fruit wood I milled warped and twisted. So if I had a kiln I'd sticker it, strap it real good and kiln dry to minimize movement.