Bmac

Supporters
  • Content Count

    629
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    20

Bmac last won the day on February 12

Bmac had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

804 Excellent

2 Followers

About Bmac

  • Rank
    Journeyman Poster

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    ...Delaware
  • Woodworking Interests
    Addicted to working with wood esp chairs and sculptured furniture. Most of my pieces made from lumber milled with my chainsaw

Recent Profile Visitors

4315 profile views
  1. Wonderful post and that little dovetail plane is quite interesting. I agree completely with your reasoning of putting the base of the legs in the same place on the underside of the case. Really curious why the location of the leg bases were off, and the fact it was exactly the same the second try makes me even more curious.
  2. This chair is headed out the door to the upholstery guy this week. All the shaping and sanding is done and the finish has been applied. One new wrinkle I've added to my sanding which has really helped is after sanding to 400 I burnish the surface with a white 3m pad. This has made any grain raising during the finish application practically disappear. Wanted to go over the upholstery side of things, because I was confused about how he wanted things and I incorrectly described what he wanted. We met last week and clarified things. First is the seat. rails 1/2" below the lip were glued and screwed in place, following the contour of the seat rails. He wanted a 1/2" frame to sit inside the opening, with about 1/8-1/4" gap all the way around. He'll use the frame for webbing, he'll put padding on that, put the fabric over that, and then the seat panel will just fit into the opening and a few screws can secure it to the chair. Here's my frame sitting in the seat opening and resting on the rails; For the back he wanted a frame that had about 1/8" clearance all around the back opening. He'll make the back cushion as a panel using webbing again. After the panel is made he'll screw it into the frame and cover the back with fabric. Earlier I was confused about this step, I thought he wanted the frame glued in place. The back frame also needs to follow the contours of the headrest and the lower cross piece. To achieve the look of "2" cushions in the back area, I placed two cross rails. This will allow him to pull and secure the fabric right were the cushions appear to meet. Here's what this frame looks like; And finally, here are a few shots of the chair with the finish applied; This build so far has been super fun. I see more upholstered pieces in my future, totally opening up another dimension in my skill set. I'll post final pics after the upholstery in done. Thanks for looking.
  3. Bmac

    SawStop setup issue

    I have to step back to something @gee-dub asked earlier, I apoligize if it was answered but I didn't see it answered. The ZCI that came with my sawstop had no slot cut into it. The directions were to lower the blade, put the insert in, turn blade on and slowly raise the blade to cut the slot. That's the whole idea behind the ZCI insert, the slot is only supposed to be as wide as the blade and the slot needs to be cut out by your blade. Was that how your insert was supplied or did it already have the slot cut? If it already had the slot cut in your ZCI (which would make me wonder why we are calling it a ZCI), the slot is probably the reason. Saw blades are thickest at the teeth, when you raise the blade the thinner part of the blade was not rubbing the slot at the problem area, when you lower the blade the thicker teeth are hitting the slot in the problem area. If the slot was already cut I just think the slot is off, to me that seems the most logical cause. If you actually cut the slot than in theory you should have no rubbing. But if there is rubbing it likely means you just need to run the saw and cut the slot wider by raising and lowering the blade. Ditto on the Freud blades, just stay away from the thin kerf models, they are typicall too thin for the riving knife.
  4. They will be in physical form, no PDF. I can trace my patterns on a large sheet of paper and mail them to you no problem. I'll also be happy to point out the joinery I used and where.
  5. Learn something everyday. Thx
  6. Tom, what's going on with their chimney? Looks like there is a pretty big space between the roof and chimney.
  7. I wouldn't charge, wouldn't even think of it. It would be a pleasure to see someone else build this. Yes you would need to do the guild rocker first at the very least. My templates may look more like a puzzle with no directions if not.
  8. Thanks Chet, my version is far from exact dimensions of the original, guessed at a lot of measurements. Glad you've enjoyed following along. Thanks John. I'll be happy to share templates but don't expect video lessons to go along with them. I'll tell you those new saws are terribly expensive. I've had great luck buying refurbished used Stihl 660's. The nice thing about the 660's is they are easy to repair and get parts for. Dropping $600 or so bucks for a used one is a big savings. Ha, you got me figured out.
  9. The upholstery guy said he'll need to test it some to figure out how much to bulk up the cushions. When we looked at the photo's of the originals he did comment that the cushions are pretty full contoured. When you are ready I can send you the templates.
  10. Purchased a few books on MCM and Danish Modern, not how to books but very much picture books for inspiration. I will say that because the books are not woodworking centered, you'll get pics of all different materials used for the furniture in these books. It is helpful to see the lines and shapes though. Here are the few I think are somewhat helpful. This book on Danish Modern is fairly interesting, and cheap. Not a bad reference but absolutely no woodworking insight, purely visual and inspirational. https://www.amazon.com/Danish-Modern-Andrew-Hollingsworth/dp/1586858114/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=danish+modern&qid=1581082093&sr=8-3 For MCM, these two are somewhat helpful for inspiration, again no woodworking insight; https://www.amazon.com/Mid-Century-Modern-Interiors-Furniture-Details/dp/1840914068/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=mid+century+modern+furniture%2C+book&qid=1581082394&sr=8-1 https://www.amazon.com/Mid-Century-Modern-Furniture-Cara-Greenberg/dp/0517884755/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=mid+century+modern+furniture%2C+by+cara+greenberg+book&qid=1581082493&sr=8-9 Overall I found the reading and designs interesting. It gave me a few ideas, but I can't say they are must have books. If you are interesting in this style and want to delve deeper than they have a purpose. I do think they will impact my design and builds somewhat in the future. Next I'm going to investigate books in the American Studio Furniture Movement. Interestingly, the above books are somewhat separate from this movement, very little cross reference. For example, Maloof was never mentioned in any of the books. Nakashima had a few mentions.
  11. I can understand your sense of satisfaction, you have a neat design that you envisioned years ago and you are building chairs. As a self proclaimed chair junkie by @Mark J, nothing is more satisfying than building chairs. Maybe I'm reading to much into your comment or maybe you are feeling the first symptoms of chair addiction. Things are looking great with the chairs and congrats!
  12. Thanks Paul. I'm actually really surprised myself how well it's going. I've had a few things not go perfectly, the back supports looking too short and the length of front leg above the chair too short for perfect arm stock placement, but those were easy to correct. I think I've just made enough Maloof chairs that I understand his construction. There is no way in a million years I would have figured this out otherwise. One annoying aspect of this build is I have to wait until the very end to actually sit in the chair, no early test "sits". In fact the upholstery guy will be the first to sit in it. When I'm done I can send you a copy of the templates!
  13. Quick update, I've been out of town for a dental mission trip. Finally getting over my jet lag and into the swing of things. Before I left i glued the back supports to the frame. This lets me move on to the arms. My design was slightly off as my 10/4 stock for the arms did not match up as well from the front leg to the arm stem on the back rest. Really needed my front leg .5" higher and I would have been dead on. So I made a new "longer" template for future reference and I glued .5" pieces to the front part of the arm stock. Arms were perfect then and fit the stock to the chair and shaped my arms. Now we are moving forward; At this point arms are just screwed on, need to do glueup here and then final shaping. Upholstery guy stopped by and need to tweak my back frame and make a frame that sits in the seat opening. Once that's done it's final sanding and finishing before it's off to the upholstery guy. Thanks for looking.
  14. OK, this will be real simple then, you won't even need templates for this. Cut your leg blanks to full width and then do your joinery, you could even do traditional mortise and tenon joinery here. After your joinery is completed cut away the excess material. Here is a pic to further explain. The hatched area is the area you remove after joinery completed. Then you do glue up and sculpt the pieces together.
  15. I just caught back up to this. I misunderstood what you were going to do with the end spacers that are glued cross grain to the case. I thought you were going to make vertical cuts into the spacer to relieve the potential restriction of movement of the case. If you make a few vertical cuts into and through the spacer these cuts will not be visible and they will allow the case to move more freely. No longer would you need to hope the spacers "stretch" if the side of the case expands. I think this is an easy thing to do that would add some piece of mind.