Bmac

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Everything posted by Bmac

  1. Bmac

    Got the chainsaws out

    First time milling with a new saw, picked up a Stihl 084 this fall, 122 cc's of milling power. Got it used of course, matches well with my three Stihl 660s (2 were bought used, the other is a Stihl clone). Milling is hard on saws and I frequently have had one of the 660s in the shop during my milling season. I think I have an issue with chainsaws, I own 8.
  2. Bmac

    Got the chainsaws out

    Those will sit outside under cover for at least 2 summers, likely longer. I then rotate them into the shop where I try to let them sit for a few more months. I can get them down to about 8-9% that way.
  3. Beats a day in the office, that's for sure. Milled up 2 cherry and 1 walnut log. All total about 2.5 hrs of hard labor. I'll sleep well tonight. Still have a few walnut and cherry logs to harvest this winter. So many chairs to make.
  4. Thanks guys for all the comments, I've enjoyed reading everyone's thoughts. A few comments from what I've read. @Chet, so right that many of us have different styles in our home as we have the ability to build what we like. I too have a mish mash of styles and it doesn't bother me because I know I have pieces that are well made and expensive to buy. @curlyoak, great point about the medium in which we work, using beautiful wood really makes a piece, regardless of style. For those who like the ornate styles, I completely understand your attraction to it. It classic and challenging. Didn't mean to put down Shaker style as a simplistic style construction, but it seems to be many of our first styles we built. Yes Nut, that chair is something I'm attracted to. When I've looked at Finn Juhl stuff, some of it is a little to out there for me but that chair hits my sweet spot. Thanks for the link, it's interesting for sure.
  5. Coop, I was with you on the MCM style a few years ago, couldn't figure out it's attraction. The Ikea like look was a real issue with me too, esp all the plywood used in pieces. But looking at pieces from some builders (Maloof, NakiShima, Esherick, and even Krenov) they upped the bar on this MCM style and it has sucked me in. Also, with my love of chairs this style has alot to choose from. @Chestnut I just ordered a few MCM books, I'll get you a review in a couple weeks. Real excited with a book I found the ranked the 100 best MCM chair designs.
  6. With small hand sanders I prefer the smaller dedicated units. The larger unit you linked to should definitely be a possibility but for my smaller tools the shop vacs, two prime examples are Fein and Festool, will probably do a better job at the localized fine dust extraction you produce with hand sanders. Here's a link; https://www.rockler.com/the-best-in-shop-vacuums-fein-vs-festool My Festool "dust extractor" sits under a work bench right where I do a lot of my sanding. Small footprint and out of the way. Turns on automatically when I turn on my sander. Never think about it. Love it.
  7. Yes, I really appreciate Wegner, learning more all the time. As for your comments on A&C, I've liked what you've done to some of your pieces to make them look more light. I can see A&C in my future and definitely working to make the look delicate. Agree that many people do it with a heavy hand, thats what my original comment meant. Jory is interesting in my opinion, he has some different designs and his construction methods are very intriguing. I've incorporated some of his ideas in the current Maloof build. As for the Hank chairs I made, they actually ended up in my dental office. I know I softened it quite a bit and it really doesn't look like the original design, but patients go absolutely crazy over the chair. They LOVE it. I was very surprised to see how much love this chair gets, because it's not my favorite. I always find what my patients like very interesting as I get a good cross section of the population. My office currently has 8 of my chairs. The 2 Hank chairs, 2 Maloof lowbacks, 1 Maloof highback, 2 tea party chairs from Morrison, and a bowtie stool from Brock. Seems like different people like different chairs but those Hank chairs may be the most popular. I also did that simple lounge chair prior to my current build to work out seat angles and it only took week. https://www.shaunboydmadethis.com/plans/8py176q1nhz2yrlz7j696njm9rlpck-24rhl-e7ds8 But it sort of grew on me as I was making it. I gave it to my son and his girlfriend for their apartment and they LOVE it, absolutely love it. My daughter loved it also and said I really need to start selling these things. I said no one is going to buy that and she mumbled something about being out of touch. I did agree to build her a few out of white oak to put by our pool. I agree with you also that your post is a little light on MCM reference material. I'm going to do some research on that.
  8. I'm interested in starting a conversation about furniture styles. We talk quite a bit about styles in a somewhat haphazard way, and Nut did a great job with the style references post. This kind of post might have been done in the past, but I don't really remember one, at least as long as I participated in this forum. I'd like to hear other's opinions on the styles you prefer and why. My eyes might be open to something new that I never considered or realized. I started woodworking with right angles and M&T joinery. Shaker simplicity was my first real influence and it fit my skill set. Getting a bandsaw totally revamped my view of woodworking. That tool along with quality hand tools opened up so many different options for me. Mid Century Modern started creeping into my designs and of course the sculptured stuff is a big draw for me. But the MCM just keeps intriguing me more and more. In an article I was reading it says MCM can be grouped into 3 categories; the bio-morphic, the machined, and the handcrafted. It's the handcrafted style with the heavy Danish influence, it's simplicity and clean lines that has created a somewhat timeless style, at least in my mind. Here's the article I was referencing; https://www.anothermag.com/design-living/8678/a-brief-history-of-mid-century-modern-furniture-design I've tried to read and study Greene And Greene, but still haven't embraced this yet. I think I could and I'll keep giving it a look. Love to hear why others like this style. Arts and Craft style is something I think I will eventually jump into since I quarter sawed a bunch of white oak last year. The AC style is alittle blocky in my mind, but I think I need to be exposed to it more. Federalist, Chippendale, Hepplewhite and Sheraton style is just too ornate for me. Rustic and slab design isn't even on my radar. It's funny, over 20 years ago I made a slab coffee table with a funky spalted maple slab. People loved it and still love it, but I hate it. Gave it to my son and his girlfriend for their new apartment. They love it. It's a real shame that Nakashima's use of the live edge slab has been so bastardized. I know I've missed quite a few styles here but hopefully this is a topic that interests others as much as me. Thanks for looking.
  9. Thanks guys for reaffirming my thoughts. I actually really like the fabric that is on the one I'm copying, it also should fit into our color scheme. I esp like there is a hint of blue in the fabric.
  10. I just caught up with this also. Sounds like you are not too terribly restrained by finances, but still clearly a factor. Your budget should allow you to purchase tools that will serve you well for a very long time, if not for as long as you do woodworking. As with Nut and Coop, I do so much more of my rough cuts on the bandsaw, only use the tablesaw for joint work and precise dimensioning of the wood. As with @JimReed, I love my SawStop. Precise machine, some of the best dust collection around, and great safety features. As a dentist I put that priority way up there. But, I totally agree with the many others that recommend a jointer and planer before a new tablesaw. Investing in these opens up a whole new world of precision and allows you to use rough sawn lumber. I started with a 6" jointer and a Dewalt planer over 20 years ago. I now have the Dewalt planer (the 735 mentioned before) and a 8" jointer. If I was smart I would have started with the 8". You can get by without the jointer for a while with a tablesaw, tracksaw, and a planer if you use a sled for your planer and the track saw and tablesaw for fairly precise edging. In your initial post you listed your power tools, but not sanders or other woodworking specific tools. If you have these things than I apologize, but these are important additions to my shop. First you need a dedicated vac for your sanders, I use festool and love it, totally love it for dust control. There are other brands out there, whichever brand for me one of these systems are critical. Secondly, if you have the funds, not a necessary tool but a great tool is the Festool Domino. Festool is over priced and I only own their sanders and the Domino because they are great tools.
  11. I haven't spoken to the upholstery guy yet, but I'm thinking I will try to replicate the look of the original. Of course I'm open to suggestions though. What do people think? I don't think leather would look good, but I could be wrong. I'm partial to blue, but I like a green tone more when paired walnut. Anyone have an opinion?
  12. Emailed with my upholstery guy and he wants it down about 1/2". He said he'll be using webbing and flexible backing for the seat cushion. You're right, you can always shim it up.
  13. Busy weekend and not much time in the shop for me. Did take a nice cherry and walnut tree down so I've got some more logs to mill. Need to feed the habit and stay 2 years ahead. Worked alot on the bottom portion of the chair. Have really been racking my brain about how to handle the seat opening. My upholstery guy said just router out a ledge inside the opening for the seat to drop onto. But I did not feel comfortable routing out that groove with all the curves and back by the leg stem the ledge needs to be deeper. I needed to do something as the side rails were too wide and looked way too bulky. Also did not want a square corner in the front part of the seat were the cushion drops in. So I took a deep breath and I struck a .5" wide line on the inside edge of the side legs where the seat will rest. Over to the bandsaw and cut along the line. Looks a lot better now; So I like the width of the side rails now and I was happy how I blended in the side pieces to the front support and the back support; Now I have a nice outline and the proper width in my seat frame. I plan to glue and screw strips for the seat to rest on. Need to talk with my guy on how far down on the frame to place the strips. Here I'm trying one in; So that was a big step forward. I also did some bandsawing and shaping of the seat frame. You can see her it's looking a lot more refined; I also tapered the back legs, here's hoping @Coop I got enough meat. Quick note about design. I am remaking the side back supports. They were just too short for my liking. I started to play with them and the headrest and the cross supports and it did not look good too me. Going to increase length 4". This will mean the chair will be approx 43" high, the original was 40" high but my seat does not slope back and as low as the original. I think that's were the porportions got thrown off. Thanks for looking.
  14. I'll use Walnut, you can follow my progress on this post.
  15. Well I think your observation is spot on for that pic, but I think that pic is a little deceiving. They are still 2" wide. I'll reduce the width to about 1.5" and won't change them thickness wise much if at all. I think the finally dimension of those back legs at the tip will be 1.5" x 1", I'm ok with that. For example I turned the front legs to 1.25" at the base. We'll see but I appreciate the observation. Maybe I should put a max weight sign on the chair!
  16. Moving ahead and I'm really pleased with the progress. Completed the front leg joints. I left them bulky to have flat surfaces for the routing, after the routing I placed my pattern over the leg and shaped them some. In this pic the leg on the right has already had a visit with the bandsaw and the one one the left is headed there. Both side supports after bandsawing, starting to take shape; Front legs went quickly; And I think we are starting to see the chair form, but still bulky; Next I did an offset turning of the front legs, following the same steps as the Maloof Rocker. Then cut out the front and back seat cross supports. Dominoed the front joint and it's looking good; And the money shot; I'm really happy how it looks. Still way bulky in some places and I need to attach the back seat support. Also need the back cross supports and headrest cut out. Once thats done and those pieces are fitted I'll meet again with the upholstery guy and get the shaping tools out. This is going way more smoothly than I thought, hoping I'm not overlooking something.
  17. Glad it makes you feel included Coop, but I was under the asumption you were building one along with me!
  18. Made some progress, but not a big update. So as I mentioned before the side leg houses almost all the joinery, and I need to develop legs that match each other and has certain correct relationships. In the front of the leg we need to do our front leg joint, a Maloof joint. I'll need flat areas to run the router and those flat areas need to match leg to leg and the top part of the leg needs to be parallel to the bottom of the leg. Also the angle of the flat surface on the stem for the backrest support needs to have the correct relationship to the front area. Finally, the length of the legs need to match. So to accomplish this I started with the backrest stem. I clapped the legs together and using a hand plane I worked the joint surface of the stem flat, at a right angle to the exterior face of the leg, and worked it so both stems matched perfectly (which was easy since they were clamped together). Then, while the legs were still clamped together I went to the bandsaw and cut my top line in the front of the side leg and cut the front length for the leg. Then hand planed again these two surfaces until they were flat, at a right angle to the exterior face and so that both legs matched. So in the pic below you can see uniform stem joint areas and the front part of the side leg has matching flat surfaces on the top part of the leg; Last thing I needed to do was cut the underside of the front part to make that surface parallel to the top. Did that on the tablesaw, no problems. On to the joint for the backrest support, used stacked dominos here, piece of cake; And finally for this post I cut my slot for the Maloof joint that connects the front leg to the seat frame. Ready for the router plane; So those slots were cut into the outer side of the leg/seat side piece. Things are bulky now, and that's on purpose. I need flat surfaces to run my router on. Once I rout out the Maloof joint I'll scribe some lines and go to the bandsaw to cut away some of the excess off the top and bottom of the side leg complex. I'll likely cut into this front leg joint. So far so good. I hope to get the frame of this chair put together by the end of this weekend.
  19. You nailed it, you waste a ton of wood doing it my way. It is something I struggle with all the time but is less of an issue for me because I mill my own wood and it's not too much of a premium for me cost wise. But I understand your concern completely. Lessening the curve will help, I guess from your post I thought you were going to scrap the curve. Cleaning up bandsaw marks always are a chore on these sculptured pieces I do, and esp if you are doing an area that is 9" wide.
  20. OK, things are starting to move. Spent the weekend developing plans between football games. Used full sized graph paper and did it the old fashion way, which helped so I could see the dimensions better. Here's the full sized drawing of the seat/leg area and part of the backrest; The angles I developed are less harsh than the original piece. I did a 5 degree drop from the front of the seat to the back of the seat. Used a 110 degree backrest to seat angle, this gives a total of about 115 degrees of reclining. Because the drop was less in the seat, the curve in the back leg had to be more severe and slightly longer than Maloof's chair was. Because of this I dropped the seat height in the front to 16.5" without cushions. Hoping it will end up around 17.5 after cushions. Seat depth is 22". Here's a better pic of the more extreme curve in the back leg; Fortunately I had the perfect board for these legs, glad I decided to mill this log 2 years ago; The critical part of this seat is the side seat rail/back leg piece. All the key joints all are in this piece; the front cross support, the leg jt, the backrest joint, and the back cross support. These all need to match each other and the challenge lies here in this build. I'll start with the backrest support, it needs to be square and located identically in each side piece; Next is the front leg joint. I need parallel top and bottom edges for joinery and a large enough flat area for my router to rest on for the joint; I'm thinking I need to develop a jig for the tablesaw that utilizes the location of the backrest joint and develops a flat cut for the top side of the board in the leg joint area. Then if I get that section flat I could use the tablesaw fence to cut the opposite side. I've left extra material in this area for this operation and I'll likely leave it a little thicker here for the joinery, then sculpt in the final contours.
  21. Great progress, even though you ended up scrapping it the learning is going to help in the long run. Seat looks great. For the curved backrest, and I know you don't plan on doing it but I had some thoughts I'd share anyway. The lamination makes the joinery much more difficult, not impossible but definitely more difficult. Cutting a curved backrest out of a solid piece with the joinery already done before cutting out the shape is a much easier approach. With that said, I think with some more fiddling with your jig you would have eventually gotten the joint right with the laminated piece. Looking forward to following your progress!
  22. Awesome sites, thank you. I will definitely look into this!
  23. Spoke with the upholstery guy and meeting him this week. That will be a big step and the additional photos you guys found are a huge help. That along with the knowing my joinery it's all about the dimensions now and finding out how to make it comfortable. @JohnG was a huge help finding it for sale, not that I plan to buy it, but the sale page has some general dimensions, over all hieght, width and depth. It's listed as 40 H x 28.5 W x 35.5 D, that gives me a rough idea of the footprint. So I plan now to make a simple style lounge chair to start and get a feel for what angles are comfortable. Found a simple design the I can make quickly and play with to help develop my patterns. https://www.shaunboydmadethis.com/glenn-lounge-chair This design is straight forward and the way it's constructed, two sides and a one piece seat, I think I can really play with seat height and pitch of the seat. Sort of like a plywood mock up but still a usable chair when finished. Also it will be a surprise moving gift for my son and his girlfriend when I'm done!
  24. I think you are right Nut, I think it's the position of the back support over the leg that gives it the tapered look. In the pic that @JohnGsent it does not look tapered. The first pic you sent me I think the angle it was taken at gives the seat a more tapered look. The nice thing about no taper is I should have parallel inside surfaces of the back supports, definitely helps with construction. These extra pics are so helpful, thanks guys!!! Sure beats dropping $18,500! I tried also to go on the art gallery but couldn't find any back photos there. By the way, I also agree with you Nut about not wanting to visit LA either.