Bmac

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Everything posted by Bmac

  1. Yes, I thought about that glue squeeze out also, this could be a problem. With applying the finishing I was thinking that cutting the strips and then gluing would allow you to prefinish before the glue up. Prefinishing might help with glue cleanup also. But if you can manage the sanding and applying finish your way then I'm all for it, your getting a real unique look. One last thought, I was also wondering about the look where the strips separate, right where you stop your bandsaw cut. That area/slot has a square look at the end of the cut, and don't get me wrong it doesn't look bad. But I'm envisioning with a glue up would create a V look with no square slot. It's very minor but it could give a different illusion. Always fun to talk about approaches to design, it really puts the art into what we do. You have a good eye and I'm sure your approach is going to work well, just wanted to share my thoughts.
  2. I would think that should not be a problem, but it has to be fully cured. I went to their website and the instructions don't say anything about a wax topcoat. Looking at the directions it's clear the problem I had was I applied too much and didn't wipe it down enough. It says specifically on their site you need to briskly rub down after application until the surface is completely dry. My guess this was your issue also. Here's the instructions for Tried and True Danish Oil (from their website); Danish Oil A superior penetrating linseed oil finish that is polymerized for fast and easy application on interior woodwork and furniture. It is also ideal for wood paneling, cabinets, salad bowls, wood utensils, butcher blocks and surfaces that come in contact with food. Danish Oil Finish is commonly used by woodworking professionals for application to bare wood or overtop an already-stained piece. Danish Oil will darken the wood slightly and can be combined with oil-based pigments to create wood stains. Danish Oil Application Instructions For all INTERIOR woodworking Apply a very thin coat across entire piece with a lint-free cloth at room temperature. DO NOT USE A BRUSH! A dry to wet color change in the wood should occur, but at no point should there be any puddling. A little bit of finish will go a long way! Allow Danish Oil to penetrate the wood for a minimum of 5 minutes. Rub in briskly with a lint-free cloth until the surface is completely dry. DO THIS BEFORE YOU LET THE PIECE CURE! Drying/curing issues will occur if this step is ignored! If little or no residue comes up on the clean cloth during this step, then you have used the correct amount of finish. Allow the piece to cure for a minimum of 8 hours. Burnish with a soft cloth or 0000 steel wool BEFORE EVERY COAT (even the first and last.) The more you rub the surface, the better the sheen will look. Additional coats will deepen the sheen and increase protection. Care & Maintenance: Use a shammy cloth to polish any dull areas. Clean surface using Murphy’s Oil Soap or other wood safe cleaners. To repair any scratches, nicks, or water marks: Use 0000 grade steel wool to buff out as much of the affected area as possible. Then, use a lint-free cloth to apply a small amount of the Danish Oil to the damage wood. Follow the normal recommended application directions. For watermarks — if damage is severe, sand water mark away using fine grit sand paper until it is smooth and even with the surrounding surface. Reapply the Danish Oil to the water mark by following the normal recommended application directions. Remember to always protect the wood surface using coasters or anti-scalding devices. .
  3. Well Coop, looks like you are ready to tackle another sculptured chair. You have more time on your hands and a new tool. Which one will it be?
  4. Well you said you are trying to get a more delicate look and I like where you are going with this. I think I like the one without the middle piece, less cluttered. But still leaving the middle piece would work very well also. Really interested in seeing how this turns out. One thing that comes to mind with looking at how you did this was how are you planning to sand and finish in the tight spaces where your bandsaw cut is. I was wondering if you thought about getting the same look by cutting strips and gluing up the pieces at the ends (gluing just the area where you didn't cut with the bandsaw). That might give you more control and possibly a few other advantages with sanding and finishing.
  5. I'd buff the heck out of it, maybe multiple times and reevaluate to see if you should finish with something else, like a hardwax finish. I've used that finish a couple of times and I can't say it is a favorite of mine. The first time I used it was on my oak workbench and it seemed to not dry correctly. I didn't see flake or white crystals but I did have the wood seemingly "sweat" out oil. In hindsight I think I applied to much and did not wipe down adequately. The problem resolved itself after I vigorously wiped the bench down a few days straight. Since it is a workbench I was fine with the result in the end but frustrated with the product. Since my first use, I've used it on a few smell things, mainly boxes and such, I've been very specific with wiping of the piece after I applied and let it sit. I've wiped vigorously and left no excess residue between coats and that has helped tremendously with this finish. Still is not my favorite, only use it occasionally, mainly because I bought it and I am trying to use it up.
  6. Explain again where this piece fits into the table. Is it taking the place of the slats between the legs? I like both designs but can't decide until I can envision what your shooting for in the end.
  7. Bmac

    Spalted hackberry

    It's my understanding that the fungi responsible for spalting stops breaking the wood down under a certain moisture content, something like around 20% and kiln drying kills most of the fungi. But you are right that it's a little counter intuitive to build with partially rotted wood. To me spalted wood does well as door panels or in small pieces as was mentioned before. I think it's always nice to have some on hand for that special project.
  8. Thanks for that link, it was interesting to see all the love given to the RAS. Mostly I hear people call it a dog or an underpowered wannabe grinder. I find it to be a cleaner and acceptable alternative to the grinder. I purchased an extra pad and some adhesives just to have them, don't want to get stuck without.The saphire discs that go on the RAS are the most durable sanding disc I've used. They last forever.
  9. Not often you can get a Festool on sale, almost a third off. Free shipping to boot. I realize these were not one of Festools best sellers, but; https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/festoolras11504e4-12rotarysander.aspx?utm_source=ActiveCampaign&utm_medium=email&utm_content=Last+Chance+to+Get+Free+Shipping+at+Highland+Woodworking!&utm_campaign=free+shipping+2nd+send I actually really like this tool, combined with 24 grit and a vac you can do some aggressive shaping with pretty decent dust collection. Now I can't say that it's as aggressive as a grinder with Holey Galahad discs, those discs are definitely faster and the holes in the discs are nice. What is not nice is the way they create a mess. I'm wondering if Festool is replacing this tool with one similar?
  10. Some quick searching on the web I was surprised to find out that the strength of sweet gun is comparable to cherry. Thought it was softer like Nut had mentioned. It has favorable characteristics to steam bending and can be a pretty wood. I would say if you have the time and energy it is a wood that could work for you if, and it's a big if, you can get flat stable stock out of the logs. I assume quartersawing will help but it still moves a lot. Here's a nice link from a wood guru, Gene Wengert, he actually comments that it is one of his favorite species that is overlooked as a premium and relatively strong wood. https://www.woodworkingnetwork.com/wood/wood-explorer/sweetgum
  11. I totally agree, you made that red oak look really nice. I'll bet that thing weighs a ton.
  12. This one's a wrap. Very pleased how it turned out and the alterations I made to the Hank chair I think worked well. So let me take a few minutes reviewing the project and giving you my thoughts if you are thinking of purchasing it. The instruction videos were solid, not as detailed as Marc's videos, but still they were good. Jory has an easy way about him and it's amazing how he will go with the flow. He is not really strict about measurements, but he does develop systems that create consistency. He relies on dominos for his joinery and this makes the construction rather straight forward. This lends itself well to alterations to the plan. His template system is neat and really worth learning, I see incorporating this in future projects. I could easily seeing someone take this project and developing other pieces of furniture very easily. I'm already considering a love seat or couch. You could use the same sides or slight variations and just make a longer seat. Another aspect of this build that was very simple, but a new technique for me was the leather seat cushion. I was amazed at how easy this was and I will definitely use this on future chairs. I will say I thought the straight forward joinery with the domino system was not very challenging, and if you follow as it's presented, there really is minimal handtool utilization. Also, Jory uses a router for a lot of stuff, and it is not my favorite tool. I incorporated some handtools in this build, mainly rasp work for some shaping. So those are my thoughts, and now some pics of the final product; This looks like a perfect setting to have a glass of scotch and a nice cigar as two friends debate politics, religion, or sports. Thanks for looking and thanks for following along.
  13. Bravo! They look great and it's bonus to read your post project recap/thoughts. Enjoyed following along.
  14. Very nice, like the design and the extra features. I'm assuming thats cherry for the base. Will ash be the wood you use for the top?
  15. Got some Osmo on this last night, and now I'm done with this chair. Love the fact that I can get a finish like this in 1 coat and I can add another coat at anytime. With the finish on you can see the sculptured features better. In this first pic you can see the original scallop at the top of the backrest and you can see the bevel I made where the backrest and sides meet. I took the bevel almost halfway down the inside of the arm and to me this really softens that part of the chair. You just need to be aware of where you domino is when you do this bevel. In this pic you get a good feel for how that 42 degree angle in the backrest and sides creates an open and inviting chair. I also think the bevel at the top of the backrest gives the illusion there is a slight curve to the top. Just another pic where you can visualize the shaping. Like I said the finish makes it much clearer. And my favorite pic. this really shows off the chair nicely. It still has some of the angular features you see in the original but the curved arms really soften the look. I was on a mission this weekend to get this first chair finished while I had some spare time. Now the second chair will be easier. I think I will definitely use the contours and sculpting details from the first chair. I'll get final pics of both chairs when I'm done and do a critical recap of the chair and the design changes.
  16. What I always thought was surprising is that Maloof liked his low back chair the most. To me it's down the list a little. I've made a few but I'm not sure I'll use those patterns again. I think there is still more you can do with the changes I made in this build, but I'm with you in that I do think it's an improvement. Thanks for the kind words. No worries,
  17. That project from FWM is on my list also. Looks like a nice and simple project and will make nice Christmas gifts.
  18. It's very comfortable. Nice chair!
  19. Attacked this piece some more after church and I'm happy with a few changes I made. Sanded to 320 and ready for the finish. Even knocked out the leather seat! So here is what I ended up with. I thought my first effort this morning was good, but the shaping lacked definition. It was too rounded and amorphous. I wanted some harder lines for the top of the back rest but I liked the general shape. So I put a heavy bevel on the inside of the side to back rest area and then just broke the sharp edge with 220. Here's what I came up with; I like this a lot better than before, Here's what it looked like on the other side before I reshaped so you can compare; So this is what I'm going with. Sanded and did some tweaking of the rest of the chair and here's the final product unfinished; I really like the curve on the underside of the back rest. And here it is with the leather seat cushion in place; To me it looks almost like a different chair than the plan, and it is very comfortable to sit in. Can't wait to put the other one together and put the finish on both. Thanks for looking.
  20. That pic was for posing, but I do lay the chair on the table for shaping. I place a towel like in this pic, or a blanket on the table while shaping and sanding. Helps keep the piece from moving but more importantly keep the sanded parts smooth. When shaping I'll put stand the chair on the floor, put it on it's side on the table, upside down on the table, hanging off the table, however I can stabilize for shaping.
  21. Glued up the first chair yesterday. Chose epoxy for it's working time and the fact I was working alone and it was a tricky glue up. Considered hide glue but still thought that might be tough timing wise. The glue up went faster than I expected, the dominos slipped in real easy with epoxy. Wanted to shape this first chair to see how I could make it look. I can do the second char differently since they are not going to live together. Really wasn't sure how the shaping would turn out. Started with the top of the back rest. From the dry run you can see it's pointy in the back; I took the high spots on the backrest down to the chair side and then drew some guide lines as to where I wanted to reduce; I'm looking for a rounding and beveling shape toward the inside of the chair. The plan calls for an outside sharp bevel. that seemed backward to me. So here's where I'm headed with my inside reduction; You can see it slopes in toward the seat; I'm liking that and further refinement is ahead. I then went to the bottom of the back rest. Here there is some excess material. I'm going to try and reduce the excess and make a curved lower line on the back rest; And I really like this, but it's only visible from the back of the chair; Roughed out I took another pic, any thoughts? Thanks for looking.
  22. Coop, I agree, the softer look is appealing to me too. I got more done, and the going has been slower than I expected. This construction technique is somewhat new to me and some of the domino placements are challenging. Also since I've changed the shape, I've had to adapt some of the steps which has turned out ok but has resulted in me scratching my head as to how to get a few steps done. I don't mind this part of the build though because it is breaking new ground for me and opening me up to new solutions I can utilize later. So here's were I'm at; I spend the first hr in the shop with the router, did not enjoy it. I pattern routed the seat frame, the cushion boards, and routed the rabbit for the cushion in the seat frame; After routing I rounded the edges of the seat frame with a rasp, mainly because I was just done with the router. I also took an hour to clean up the shop after the routing. Next is fitting the seat frame to the chair. To do this you clamp the chair together with the back rest in place. Than mark were you want the seat, Jory has some estimates. I then clamped two 1" strips on that line and Jory uses a neat technique to make a template to get your cut lines for the seat frame. He takes 2 pieces of 1/4" ply, puts them on the line for the seat and in the correct position one the chair frame and where the plywood overlaps he secures them. I used tape but he used an air nailer. So here's the template in place; I then took that and laid it over the seat frame to mark my cut lines. I used a circular saw for this cut, I think I should get a track saw, would have been easier; After the cut I put the frame in place and found out my slenderizing and shaping of the back leg caused a slight problem; So I was able to reposition the seat frame a little more forward, but it will be a problem with the dominos. Jory puts 2 in the back leg and 1 in the front. I will put 1 in the back, because I'm concerned with the width. I will increase the size of the domino though from 8mm to 10mm. Here's the chair clamped up, sat in this carefully and it felt great; While clamped I took the 1" strips out and marked the underside of the seat frame for domino placement, then unclamped; Here's the domino setup for domino slot; Turned out fine, just took a steady hand, Jory uses a template for this as a guide, my design change made that more difficult so I freehanded it;; Next I needed to find out where that position sits with the seat frame. Put the seat frame in place and marked the center of the domino on the frame; This worked, as I eyeballed the mortise into the seat frame. Came out very much dead on, even though I didn't need to be dead on, just needed to be close. What I really needed to be was consistent. Next it was a dry run; Took a seat for a few minutes relieved I worked my way through those last few steps. Then I marked some areas I need to shape; Took things apart and grabbed the rasp; One interesting problem was my workbench was not quite wide enough to sit the chair on. So I made it bigger with my vise and a 1" strip; Next is dry run with the second chair, sand all the parts and glueup. Moving toward the end. Thanks for looking.
  23. Starting to pick up some speed on this project. Glued up the seat frames and cleaned up some templates. Here are the seat templates, you see the frame and the template for the 1/2" plywood that will turn into the cushion. There is about an 1/8th" gap all the way around the seat cushion template. In theory that space will be taken up by the leather covering. The cushion will simply fit in via friction; The seat frame glued up, culls were cut out in one area to achieve a better clamping direction of pressure. The excess on the inside of the frame will receive a rabbet up to the pattern line and the remaining lip will support the cushion. Here's a close up of the back joint in the seat frame. Two stacked 6mm dominos are the support for this joint. Both angles were cut at 42 degrees to match the same 42 degree angle the side and backrest were cut at. Pleased with the joint; The front joint makes up for the combined 42 degree cuts in the back. The side is cut at 6 degrees to match a square front rail, stacked 6mm dominos here also; Here's what's on tap next; Cut off excess on the outside of the seat frame via the band saw. Pattern route the outside of the seat. Rabbet the inside of the seat. Fit the seat frame to the sides of the chair and attach using 8mm dominos. Cut out and fit the plywood cushion base and upholster the seat. Glue up chair. Continue to shape, sand and personalize the look of the chair. Thanks for looking
  24. All the chairs I've done have templates and they are useful in many ways. I do think they become more valuable if you are cutting curved pieces. If all cuts are straight 90 degree angles than something like a storystick will work. I use my templates for marking out joint location, marking lines for bandsaw cuts, and for pattern routing. If I'm locationing a joint with a template I'm still doing the details with a square, marking tool, and etc. Templates that I don't use for pattern routing are usually 1/4" plywood. There are some patterns I need to bend and conform to an irregular surface so having a template that can flex is really important. Templates I use for pattern routing are 1/2" plywood and I use doublesided tape to hold it to the piece being routed. MDF would do well here also but I would be concerned the doublesided tape would tear up the pattern. I have small pieces, like handles and knobs, that I've developed templates for. Heavy poster board will usually handle these smaller patterns. Storage has become more of an issue for me as I'm running out of wall space to hang my chair patterns. I have a jar of knobs roughed out and just keep the patterns in those jars. Finally, doing the Hank chair by Jory Brigham is interesting as he uses patterns for a lot, like making sleds and setting up cuts.
  25. And his website is worth the time to read!