Bmac

Supporters
  • Posts

    878
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    40

Everything posted by Bmac

  1. Coop, I've used Titebond Hide Glue, I liked it and it did give me more time for assembly. With that said, if i need more assembly time I usually go with Titebond II Extend, this is a nice glue for complex glueups. It is a little more runny than the other Titebond products, but I have confidence in this glue. Here's a link with the details; http://www.titebond.com/product/glues/21051713-5cce-4925-a653-3bff0a0f71ab I've really gotten away from epoxy, except it certain circumstances. I believe with really nice tight fitting joints it's easy to starve the joint with epoxy. Epoxy really is the strongest and sets better if it has some film thickness. A very thin layer of epoxy in a tight joint is not ideal. I know some believe starving a joint is a myth, and I think that may be the case with the traditional wood glues, but I do not think it's a myth with epoxy. Unfortunately I have a project I used epoxy on that had this problem. Epoxy does best in sloppy joints, that's why it works well in all those river tables and for filling in cracks or defects. But enough about epoxy, I'd go with the Titebond II Extend, nice product.
  2. It's a shame this forum has lost traffic, that loss has kept me from checking in as frequently as I once did. But saying that, and having looked into other forums, I prefer this over all others I've looked at. And the big reason for that is the quality of work done by those who participate here. There are some project journals on this forum that are just priceless/wonderful and the craftsmanship is often phenomenal. I also firmly believe I wouldn't be the woodworker I am today without this forum. It's pushed me to show my work and nothing has helped me grow more than that. The members here are so friendly and giving, it's really an encouraging atmosphere for developing woodworkers. This is a great place to learn, share and grow.
  3. I missed the final reveal on this. I just have to say GREAT JOB Mike! Turned out great!
  4. Thanks everyone for the compliments, and let me answer a few questions/thoughts brought up by your comments. First, yes I did consider doing the vertical slats on both sides, and I declined for a few reasons. I'm not sure if you can tell, but if you look closely the armrest with the slats is higher than the one without. I didn't like that and I thought it would be a comfort issue, but I wanted the extra hieght for back support and since the pillow sits there I wasn't as concerned with the height on the side the pillow sits. Second, I really wasn't sure how it would end up looking. I really struggled with the vertical slat idea and how to construct it. I made it shaped specifically in a concave manner for the pillow to rest and I didn't want pillows on both sides. In the end the vertical slats looked much better than I ever thought they would so I guess I would have been happy with the look if I did them on both sides, but the arm rest height still might have been an issue. In the end I embraced the asymmetry and said to myself this is what making custom pieces is all about. My upholstery guy looked at the couch a little funny at first, but when I explained his eyes lit up and he said that is what is beautiful about custom work, it's a one of a kind. Second, to answer @Chestnut, the pillow is just stuffed, no cushion foam. I'm not sure what he filled it with but it is soft and still full enough for support. And yes my wife does love it, she really never complains with what I make but this piece was critical. I used less firm cushions than I did in the couch and increased the drop from front to back at her request. I was considering webbing in the bottom seat frame but went with wood instead. I moved her old loveseat upstairs in one of our kids bedrooms (our oldest who recently moved out) and put it under a double window overlooking the back of our property, a perfect quiet place for her to sit and read, so she still can put her old comfortable seat back to use. My wife has no idea I plan to make new endtables and a new coffee table for the room, and that I ordered some new mid century lamps for the room to replace the more arts and crafts look of our old ones. But she won't mind and I think she'll be very happy with the end result of the room.
  5. Well many of you may remember I started this process awhile back. I wanted to redo the couch and sofa in our living room but was getting resistance from my wife, she was concerned about the comfort of these new pieces. Her main concern was the loveseat, it's where she mainly sits to read and watch the television. I knew I had some work to do to win her over. I started with the couch and shared that process with you last fall. Over the winter I got completely distracted with making fishing lures, but still was quietly plugging away at the design of the loveseat. Since it was going to have a wood frame I needed to figure out how to design it so the side she reclined on was comfortable enough for her. This took awhile and in the end I made an unique loveseat, where one side was designed differently than the other to hold a cushion in place. The construction was very similar to the couch but I changed a few things, mainly made the armrests higher, increased slightly the drop from the front to the back, went with softer seat cushions, and figured out how to add some vertical supports to the one armrest that would "hold" the cushion. The result was something that I was very pleased with and it is very comfortable, and most importantly I made my wife happy with the design. Here's a picture of the frame, sans the cushions; Here's a closer look at the armrest that holds the cushion; A quick shot with the seat cushions to show the difference in the armrests from side to side; And two final shots all assembled; So the conversion on the mid century modern look in my living room is almost complete. Now it's on to new endtables and a new coffee table. It's funny how one project can create others, but I'm not complaining.
  6. Always a great topic to discuss as I think movement of wood can be complicated and tricky. When confronted with fastening wood cross grain with each other I rely on a few simple rules. First, the width of the board plays a big role, a narrow cross grain attachment is not a big deal, a wide board is a big deal. As Chestnut stated above, fastening a wide board a at two points some distance from each other will not end well. Second, if it's a wide board than make just one point a fixed point and allow for movement of the rest of the board. That fixed point can be glued, a tenon (domino also), or a metal fastener. There are probably other fixed point fasteners I forgot. The fixed point can be located on one side or in the middle, and the choice often is based on which part of the board you don't mind the movement in. So with a panel in a frame you can fix the middle and allow for movement of the floating panel within the frame width wise on either side of the fixed point. With a bread board edge if you want the front of the piece to stay flush than put your fixed point in the front part of the bread board edge. So you can decide on which area is best for your project to stay fixed. Thirdly, with a wide cross grain situation, you often need additional fastening. Any other point should allow for movement and that can be done many different ways, but does not include any glue joints. It can be as intricate as a sliding dovetail or it can be as simple as a screw placed in a elongated hole, elongated in the direction of the wood movement. In your case that you were describing I would look for one fixed point and one point that allows for movement, you decide where you want it fixed and where you are okay with some movement. All solid wood moves, and the take home message is you can control wood movement by allowing it to move.
  7. Proud "redneck" sawyer here. Been slabbing wood for yearssss. No problems with my projects. All my wood is air dried, a pleasure to work with and you can get some beautiful lumber, and a lot of waste too. I understand grain orientation and typically flat saw my logs. From a log you get all types of grain orientation, including quarter sawn boards. Just need to understand what you are milling and what the log is giving you. I've even quartersawn some logs, not true quartersawn but the method where you quarter the logs and cut the board off each face. The key is patience and allowing it to dry. The advantagrs are many, cost, good stewardship of a resource, using wood from the same log for a project, easier to bend, and some pretty unique and beautiful wood. It's hardwork doing this but it is incredibly satisfying. You need to study how wood dries and how to properly store and mill it. Outside wood will reach a certain moisture content and will never be dry enough for using unless you finish it off in a controlled environment. Bottom line with all wood is it will also gain moisture as well as lose moisture. Kiln dried wood will eventually have the same moisture as my air dried wood has if both are stored in the same place. Commercially dried wood does take up moisture slower than air dried, but it still takes up moisture. When working a slab for a project I typically resaw a little wider than I need, let it acclimate and mill/process to final thickness. You will get some movement after resawing but I'm always surprised how it is typically minor. I also know if you are working with a commercially dried wood and resaw you can also get some movement. All wood builds up stresses while drying, doesn't matter how you dry it. I tend to believe the gentle nature and slower rate of air drying results in less built up internal stresses. Sure some of my slabs warp while drying, all wood does, I just let it warp and mill from there. I think commercially drying wood tends to build up more stress with the rapid nature of drying. Bugs or borers, again I'm on the look out for these all the time. I take precautions and I've used a borax solution on vulnerable species. Never has been an issue. Backyard sawyers that have not studied wood and it's nature are out there, and they do give use knowledgable sawyers a bad name. But that's ok with me, I'll keep using my milled wood for my projects and enjoy the results. With care and education on the subject I'm convinced it can be done well. And I too am sorry for hyjacking this thread!
  8. Great question Coop, all these plugs are thru-wired, no screws. I thru drill the blanks prior to turning on the lathe and a hole is placed mid-lure for a swivel. Hooks are then attached to the tail loop and the swivel hanging from the thru wire. Screw in hook hangers/eyes can be done but you are correct they are not as strong. Boy, a real tasty fish for sure. We get a few up into NJ in Aug/Sept, much more in the Carolinas. Not enough to usually target them in NJ.
  9. Waiting is always the hardest part. Looking good!
  10. You really can use a variety @Chet, depending on which lure you are making and what you want it to do. Lighter woods give more floatation and in some respects more action to a lure. Surface lures are often cedar or pine. I used paulownia (left over from surf board builds) for a lot of my lighter surface lures and weighted them. The big time makers swear by Alaskan White Cedar. Maple and birch are common more dense woods used, these are for lures you want to work below the surface, from there you weight them appropriately depending on the desired action. I used maple for quite a few and am trying some cherry also, alittle less dense than maple so it should have a little more floatation. I plan to move into some lipped lures next, studying those now, they are alittle more difficult, where and how much you weight them is critical. Since these are used in the surf you are really not looking to get a lot of depth, action of the lure is more key. With surface lures the way it sits in the water, depending on where and how you weight them, is also key. Here's a how to article from a plug maker, I'm making a bunch of these, it's pretty interesting and you can follow the process; https://www.thefisherman.com/article/plug-building-1-the-habs-needlefish/ And here's a link to a page with a bunch of builds; https://www.thefisherman.com/category/plug-lure-building/
  11. I'm as crazy about surf fishing as I am about woodworking. This winter I decided I would make a bunch of Classic Striper Coast surf lures, what better way to join together 2 hobbies. So after a bunch of research I got started and now I'm addicted. A lot of these classic wooden lures sell for $20 plus, and there is a growing group of independent producers cropping up all along the Northeast Coast. I don't plan to sell anything, but my fishing buddies are super excited that I plan to share my creations. Here are some classic designs, the Habs Needlefish, the Canal Hawg and a new classic the 2T Pencil; Some more Canal Hawgs, 2T Pencils and smaller Albie Pencils; A small school of Squids waiting to be employed; And finally, a production line started; So production starts with the design, then make a turning blank, thru drill that and then turn. Drill out you holes for hooks and weights. A dip in wood sealer, paint, coat of epoxy and then put together. It is very addicting!
  12. Very nice, solid design, an elegant look with a surprisingly simple design. Looking great!! That wiggly mortise making thingy is pretty nice isn't it!
  13. Maloof always said a screw is nothing more than a metal dowel or tenon and he believed it was better than a wood dowel or tenon. He did get some grief at the time by other woodworkers who were more "purists", but he nevertheless felt comfortable including screws in his work. As for the Maloof joint itself, if done well it's a very stable joint, but the screw does help reinforce it, esp when dealing with chairs that receive a lot of force. I'm sure a loose tenon or dowel would work for the joint, but the screw is very fast and easy here, and Maloof believed it was the strongest option. I for one won't argue with him.
  14. You are correct, this is the part of the build that can be so rewarding- sculpting the shape, the lines, the contours, it's always the most rewarding part of the build. Your design looks very good and I love that you are old school like me with the graph paper. I think this chair will sit really well. You've got a bigger drop from the front of the seat to the back of the seat than I did, I tried to lessen that drop and in the end I think I lessened it too much. I actually went back after the fact and cut 1.5" off my back legs on my finished car to increase the drop. It helped with the comfort of the seat. Keep up the good work!
  15. Looking very nice!! Following this one!
  16. I’ve been waiting for this follow up post, looking great Paul!
  17. @Chestnut, here are the angles and drops that I ended up with. From the front of the seat to the back it's a 4 degree drop, which is effectively an 1.5" drop. The angle of the seatback to the seat is 8 degrees, resulting in a recline angle of the back to the floor of 102 degrees. What I'd tweak on this is a 2" drop and a final back angle to the floor more in the 105 range. My design, which I liked so much, made me come up with these above angles. But I did want more of an upright couch rather than a reclining one you sink into. I think with couches you could be between 100-110 degrees and be fine, with a 115 not out of the question. To me increasing the drop seems to always help with comfort. As for webbing in the seat I was concerned with integrity and strength in the piece. Webbing does give you some strength but the wood slats are stronger. Webbing likely would have worked though, and it would have made the seat more forgiving. You are right, we do tend to over build.
  18. @Chestnut, agree and I'm pleased that the look is not heavy handed or bulky. It's a lot less imposing of a couch than the one it replaced, and I think this makes the whole room look less cluttered. @Chet, couldn't agree more with that statement. It really puts the custom in custom furniture and it's a benefit of being able to design and build your own. A few thoughts on the seating. I've had the opportunity to sit on the couch for a few days and the upholstery guy used extra firm cushions for the seat and med firm for the back. I almost wish the seat cushions were a little less firm, but not a game changer. I also think I could have increased the angle slightly (rake or pitch) of the seat. Basically this is referring to the drop from front to back in the seat, I could have increased that drop. The angle of the back to the seat could have also been increased slightly. I discussed this with the upholstery guy and we even tried an angled or wedge cushion for the back cushion, but I didn't like that. The softer back cushion does effectively increase the recline angle slightly since when you sit the back cushion gives. So overall I think it sits well, but I'm going to make a few slight tweaks in the loveseat. I may even tweak this couch. Because I'd think it would benefit from more drop, front to back, I may cut off an inch off all the back legs on this couch. This is the quick and easy way to increase the rake.
  19. Thanks for all the compliments. But @Mark J brings up the real question; Well my wife is very easy going but she did have some feedback on this project, because I was hoping to parlay this into a matching loveseat build. If you guys remember her one request for the loveseat was being able to sit while leaning her back on the arm and having her feet on the loveseat. So this couch was a trial run for that project. Well she does love the couch, but the arm is too low for her to lean against it. I scooped it out and shaped it so putting a pillow there and leaning against it is comfortable, but it is too low and does not give her enough back support. So before I start the matching loveseat I have some thinking and designing to do. I'm thinking of a way to "wrap" the back, or extend the back to the one side she would lean against and just do the same arm as the couch on the other side. Or simply make the arm higher so there is more support. I'm not sure but it's these challenges that make this hobby so fun. I had enough foresight to buy enough of the fabric for the loveseat when the couch was upholstered.
  20. OK, it's been awhile, and my patience has finally paid off. My upholstery guy took the month of July off, and with the backlog of work he had to do I just got the couch back this week. So it's time to put a bow on this build. I like the fabric we picked, the cushions and couch look real clean and it sits very well. The MCM look is beginning to permeate my home, and this project will result in a few matching pieces for the room (love seat, coffee table, end tables). So here's the finally couch; Thanks for following along and I hope this was enjoyable to watch, I can say it was enjoyable to build.
  21. Using a skip tooth is nicer, I typically use a standard skip tooth with standard cutter angle and when I sharpen I try to take the tooth/cutter angle back to 10 degrees, basically converting it to a ripping chain during the sharpening process. There are other specialized ripping chains out there, most just have the decreased cutter angle in the teeth. Granberg makes one with different cutter widths, I have found it doesn't make much difference. The biggest difference is having a sharp chain, you get a little smoother surface with a lower cutter angle, but not really an increase in speed.
  22. Great job, How did that Stihl 084 run? I'm sure it made quick work of that log, or at least relatively quick work.
  23. I've been negligent in updating this. Finished up the build about a week ago and applied the finish (2 coats Osmo). Now I'm waiting on my upholstery guy, who took the month of July off. I'll get him the piece later this month and he is ordering the fabric, so I should be first in line when he reopens. Well enough small talk, back to the build; Last thing I needed to complete was the seat frame. I struggled to figure this out, because in reality the space for the seat frame was not totally square. In gluing up this long piece and doing it in sections I was really happy with how close I actually got to square, but I was worried if I built the seat frame and tried to fit it to the space it would be a headache. So my solution was to build the frame in the space instead of outside the space. I figured with the dominos everything should just slide together, and then I would assure I had a good fit in all the crucial areas. So here's the seat frame dry fitted together; For assembly I started by gluing in the back piece, here it is in place with the mortises and the 3 critical cross supports. These cross supports are critical because they will be glued to the sides and the middle leg and will act as reinforcements to racking. You can also see in this pic I added some extra support behind the front underneath cross piece for the seat panel to sit on: Here's how one critical area looks. I glued two blocks to the side frame, the back of the seat frame is glued in place, and I'll glue the cross piece of the frame to the blocks and the side; And here's how that piece will fit in place, so you can see I've got a lot of good long grain to long grain gluing surface; The plan is to glue the cross pieces into the back piece via dominos, also glue the cross pieces to the front underneath support, and then glue the front of the seat panel into the cross pieces via dominos while gluing it down to the front underneath support, all at the same time. This was going to be a difficult glue up, so I used Titebond Extend, and the domino mortises were cut wider then the dominos, as putting the front of the frame into 13 dominos at the same time required a little wiggle room. Here's the front piece of the seat frame with the domino mortises; And here's the glue up, no time for pics during this complicated glue up; So after I was done with that I changed my underwear and did some clean up sanding which was very minimal as I used the glue sparingly in the final glue up. And here's the final piece with the finish; Now I just need to be patient with my upholstery guy, but overall I was very pleased with the result and i think it will look nice when the cushions are done. let's hope my wife agrees!
  24. I feel for you and am sorry to hear that. People want custom stuff but are often not willing to pay for the headaches they cause by being demanding with custom stuff. I hope you are getting adequately compensated. In my profession I deal with colors all the time. People just don't understand all that goes into a color match, and with teeth it's even more complex. You've got value, chroma and hue that all play a role in color matching. Most dentists, when confronted with fixing a discolored tooth in the front of the mouth have taken to treating the front 6 rather than just the one, that way they have control over the color. I view this as practically malpractice, but who can blame them with a picky patient. I have become more and more reluctant doing "cosmetic work" and if I am confronted with fixing a discolored front tooth I set low expectations, charge more and send them to the lab for custom staining. I will not accept anything less in doing those cases. People just don't know what they don't know about color, and a lot of other things for that matter.