Bmac

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Everything posted by Bmac

  1. No, you did it the way I was trying to eplain, some cuts from the top and some from the bottom is the key!
  2. OK, this is a tricky part and I use two methods. First if you put your boards down with the tops up and try to domino with the boards on the bench, you will have a problem when you have an acute angle since the domino doesn't adj to an acute angle. So, do the joints you can with the boards and the domino resting on the bench. Now, the joints where you can't do this; flip the boards over and domino from the side of the board now facing up. Make sure you adj the height of the domino and keep the domino in the bottom 1/4 of the board and do both boards involved with the joint this way. To help you can adjust your domino fence to match the angle like I did.
  3. Thanks for the kind words. Doing these rockers are a real pleasure, hope you experience that in your build. Would love to see pics of your project too. Project journals are my favorite part of this forum and I've become a better woodworker by posting my work!
  4. Bmac

    Blanks

    I'm not a turner so the advice I'll give should be taken with that understanding. First seal the ends and select the larger rounds with straight grain, avoiding knots. I would then split in half, down the pith, if you don't split them you will get radial cracking. From there you could store them in a garbage with or without wet sawdust. You could also turn some rough bowls or whatever while wet and then dry them slowly. As for the 8" elm, that's pretty small, but again you could split the larger pieces down the pith and try to use. I've taken pieces like this and carved bowls out of the 1/2 rounds while wet, pleasure to carve wet wood. It's a pleasure to turn wet wood (so I hear).
  5. Dang, that's good!
  6. The smaller box is Curly Hard Maple, left over from my rocker build last year. The other box is Norway Maple with a Black Walnut lid.
  7. A super bandsaw box tutorial, watched this and was making boxes in a flash. Great technique if you haven't seen it before. https://www.finewoodworking.com/2016/06/07/episode-1-introduction-make-beautiful-bandsawn-boxes I grabbed a few chunks of wood and instant boxes; Thanks for looking.
  8. Was the wood already dry? If the wood is dry it's not nearly as critical to seal the ends. When wood is wet, end checking begins almost immediately, I always seal my logs within hours of dropping the trees. So if the wood is in the process of drying sealing the ends now will likely not prevent cracking. As for products to seal the ends, latex paint is not nearly as effective as anchorseal.
  9. Nice job as usual, gotta love that butternut. Chet, surely she’ll allow a Maloof Rocker!
  10. A real classy piece, great design and super job pulling it off. Absolutely love the figure you got on that top, WOW. That will go real nicely with your Roorkee Chair.
  11. I used it for my outfeed table for the tablesaw, like you were thinking and it worked out great. I like that it's surface is slick and boards slide right over it. I also do most of my glueups on that table, very easy to clean up any glue drips after the fact. Jigs are another great use along with shelving.
  12. Great explaination Tom, it sounds like I sharpen it very similar to you. While milling I stop and sharpen every few tanks regardless, and i really keep an eye on my rakers (depth gauge). I set my rakers based off the wood I'm milling, bigger bites in soft woods, smaller in harder woods. @Coop, the explaination really is longer than the doing. If you watch someone sharpen a chain correctly it is not that complicated, but the little nuances Tom is explaining mean everything. @Tom King , what scored that piston, the fatal event? It wasn't clear to me in your post. I've had that happen to one of my 660s last winter.
  13. Is your carcass glued up? If not you could possibly do it with a dowel, 1/2” size. Drill your hole through the bottom shelf into the leg, doing your best to drill at the angle the leg sits. You’ll need to do this with the bottom sitting on the legs with the legs in the correct position, drill through shelf and into the leg. To help with stability, clamp the bottom shelf to your workbench with the legs in position between the shelf and the workbench, the clamping pressure should be enough to stabilize the legs for the drilling procedure. It might be a little hairy but it should work. Yes, a domino could be used here too, but if you don’t have one it doesn’t help. I would also consider in addition to the dowel a brace glued in place under the cabinet and on the part of the leg the is not visible.
  14. Here you go Rickey, table top is the curly oak, just an oil finish; Here are a few boards milled and waiting to be put to use, some real nice curl in these boards!
  15. I'll make a note and take/post some pics. Keep an eye out for them!
  16. I agree with Derek, I started with the veritas (which I found adequate) and on his recommendation bought the Gramercy saw. It did take awhile to get used to it, harder to start, but once comfortable with the saw it is a pleasure.
  17. Yes, you will like them, may like them so much you buy more. The light weight is such an advantage as I stated before!
  18. Don’t know, not a real ash fan. With me not working I might need to save my pennies for that maple log But it would be cool to make a curly ash baseball bat
  19. @pkinneb, Yes, I have been very pleased with the Dubuque clamps, strong and very durable. Love the fact that they are so light compared to pipe clamps!
  20. In the end having different styles of clamps let you do more. I would recommend getting different styles and different lengths. The quick grips have their place, but you definitely don't want to spend the price for these in larger sizes. I mostly use the quick grip style to clamp stuff down to the workbench. My main clamps are aluminum bar clamps. These are not too expensive, they are light, and do great for most simple clamping jobs and excel at gluing up panels. Pipe clamps basically do the same job, but I much prefer the much lighter aluminum. Size wise the 24" clamps do most jobs. These aluminum bar clamps have served me for many many years. My second most used clamp are the F style clamp, these too can be gotten pretty inexpensively and some guys have already posted a few sources at good prices. I'd get a bunch of these at smaller sizes, say 8", and a few at larger sizes. These larger F style clamps (I have four at 36") come in pretty handy for some clamping situations. My next clamp I use, but not nearly as often as the ones above, are the parallel style clamp. These are great clamps and I should use them more but they are more expensive and I only have a handful of them. These do have a great large clamping area and great clamping pressure. Biggest problem I have with these is it's often easier to just grab the lighter aluminum bar clamps.
  21. Super Job! Awesome result on a challenging project.
  22. Time to wrap this up and I'm excited to get my shop back. For the past week I've mixed more epoxy than I ever care to mix, and I still have a little more to mix. SUP has been glassed and epoxied, I also glassed and epoxied a smaller 6' board I had made last month. Just waited to do them together. Made 3 paddles and I still have some work to go on those but I'm waiting for another shipment of epoxy. So here's the final result, I'm really happy with it and I love the way the red cedar works with the paulownia, looks better than the walnut paulownia combo. Glad to get this huge project done. I knew it was going to be a big/long project so hence the virus inspired. Now on to another project. Thanks for looking.
  23. I got to start building more stuff then!
  24. So I'm losing track, how many curly maple logs are you going to mill?
  25. Well guys I build em but I've yet to use em. I'm following the tried and true design. It's my understanding, and hopefully my experience this summer, that the bend faces away from you when paddling. The paddle is supposed to enter the water in front of you and exit the water once the paddle becomes parallel to you. This angle allows for more efficient paddling, so I'm told. Doing research for this project I found a site on common paddleboard mistakes. Listed as #1 was using the paddle backwards. Now I'm sure you could make a straight paddle and have it work, but this is the preferred design. So as I learn to paddleboard this summer I may not know what I'm doing but at least I'll look like I know what I'm doing!