Bmac

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Everything posted by Bmac

  1. I've used both techniques and much prefer the bandsaw removal preshaping technique, but both will work. The bandsaw technique gets you real close to symmetric reduction if your cuts are accurate. As for symmetry, you don't need to be exact. Your eye doesn't pick up little discrepancies, feeling the seat with your hand picks the discrepancies up way more than your eye. For symmetry get it looking symmetrical to your eye, then feel it with your hand marking high spots and reduce until it feels acceptable. The soft foam interface pads are great at helping get things smoothed out and more symmetrical.
  2. Sure, I get that, but in the end it's still a bench. If it doesn't look beat up and used in 10 years you are not really doing work on it. Dog holes round or square? I went with round and am perfectly satisfied.
  3. Looking good, and I like the fact that you understand this is a workbench, not a piece of fine furniture! What are you using for the legs, Cherry? By the way, you can't put off those chairs forever.
  4. Thanks boys, it wasn't much different than scooping out a seat. Really love this sculpting thing, has opened up my eyes to what I can do with wood.
  5. Shoot, I was hoping he couldn't fit it in!
  6. Been working as a Christmas Elf for the past few weeks, trying to think up some simple gifts. Made some candleholders, a few bigger pieces of furniture, some boxes based on @gee-dub continuous grain boxes, great link here... But @Gary Beasley got me thinking when he was begging for slabs from @Spanky to make some bowls. Well I'm not much of a bowl turner, but with the development of my sculpting skills I thought this might be a great gift idea. Went out to my drying piles where slabs hold down the roofing, lean against the back of a drying shed, and a few extra ones are lying around waiting to be chainsawed into fire wood. I grabbed a walnut and cherry slab along with a hunk of paulownia. After knocking off all the bark I cut the slabs into chunks and jointed/planed to thickness. The thickness was dependent on the usable wood in the hunk. Then I drew random bowl shapes onto the hunks, avoiding cracks and defects. Once again the wood dictated the shape I drew. Now it was outside my shop where I completed aggressive wood removal with the angle grinder. After a few days and some sanding, scraping and anything I had to smooth the bowl, I had 10 great looking organic shaped bowls. All the slabs were a few years old and dry, hoping no cracks develop but we'll soon find out. Here are what I saved from the fireplace; Second batch; Not bad for a few days of grinding and shaping. Thanks for looking.
  7. I like the way you think.
  8. Love the drawer fronts, great job with matching the grain. Can't wait to see it with a finish on it.
  9. Well I'm glad you are thinking of me, tell Coop if he can't get it home I'm not afraid to buy it!
  10. Great job and some stunning stock you found to build with. So the two subtle changes to the project I see are no metal inset on door and flush through tenons on sides. Any other changes?
  11. I told you during our conversations you may well be headed down a path that is hard to leave. I made my first chair about 4 years ago and it has become somewhat of a obsession. The variety of chairs you can make is extensive and I learn something new with every different style of chair I make. I really look forward to following along with this build as I also have found your thought processes and and design ideas are always interesting. I think you are starting with a solid design and concept and the end result should be a great set of chairs.
  12. Looking forward to following this too! Have used TB III too like Mick for my bent laminates, and I've even used TB extend for more involved laminate glueups. I have looked into the Unibond but went with what I know. Maloof always just used a PVA for his rockers. But you got a super result with that. I've never had such invisible glue lines. Looking up the product it has long open time, sets pretty quick and it's for interior only. What's it handle like, runny or more thick?
  13. Plan to do a rocker with that soon, I'm knocking out some other projects now. Thinking I'll get started on that rocker around Thanksgiving, can't wait to tear into that wood.
  14. That's an impressive week's worth of work, still doing ties? Used the Butternut you sent me for a project, it was a pleasure to work with!
  15. LOVE that first table. That really came out nice and very unique!
  16. @derekcohen, I appreciate your humble and measured response. I think the saying "you don't know what you don't know" applies here. Perhaps you moved some of your members to the next level where they realize they don't know and are interesting in learning more. I for one want to thank you for your journals and your website. They have been very helpful and inspiring. Hand cut dovetails are now becoming a part of my projects, something 3 years ago I would have avoided doing. Looking forward to your next project!
  17. Mark, he mentioned it was the Perth Wood Show. I think this is the link; http://www.fwwa.org.au/woodshow.htm
  18. Great job with the decorative sides, turned out very nice.
  19. Derek, I guessing that there were no hand cut dovetails in the first place piece ( maybe the drawer, but I'm thinking a router was involved). Your piece shows a love and dedication to the craft of woodworking. The other piece shows a love for veneer and an artistic flair, but it totally lost me when I saw the side mounted drawer slides and the false drawer/door fronts. Also the adjustable shelf and the bulky, ugly door/drawer pulls show a lack of refinement. Oh, and what the heck was going on in the 4th pic of the first place piece, the back of the drawer shows a total mess. I can't understand how you can do such detailed veneer work and be so sloppy with a drawer back. Not first place material. Your drawer bottoms ran SEQUENTIALLY and the inside of his drawer were a total glue mess. My vote is for yours, a true piece of fine craftmanship and beauty.
  20. Yes Coop, it's a deep chair. I think it wouldn't be too hard to move the backrest forward, it would just be changing the location of 2 cuts. The other thing is they are very wide, much wider than the Low Back. That may not be a big problem, but could be if you have a desk with limited leg/knee/foot space. Changing the width is more difficult as you would need to change the pattern. If you want any measurements of the final chair just ask, I'll get them for you. Submitted and they are now posted on the guild site.
  21. Thanks. Yes, went with the PolyX Oil, Clear Satin.
  22. Yes, I thought about that glue squeeze out also, this could be a problem. With applying the finishing I was thinking that cutting the strips and then gluing would allow you to prefinish before the glue up. Prefinishing might help with glue cleanup also. But if you can manage the sanding and applying finish your way then I'm all for it, your getting a real unique look. One last thought, I was also wondering about the look where the strips separate, right where you stop your bandsaw cut. That area/slot has a square look at the end of the cut, and don't get me wrong it doesn't look bad. But I'm envisioning with a glue up would create a V look with no square slot. It's very minor but it could give a different illusion. Always fun to talk about approaches to design, it really puts the art into what we do. You have a good eye and I'm sure your approach is going to work well, just wanted to share my thoughts.
  23. I would think that should not be a problem, but it has to be fully cured. I went to their website and the instructions don't say anything about a wax topcoat. Looking at the directions it's clear the problem I had was I applied too much and didn't wipe it down enough. It says specifically on their site you need to briskly rub down after application until the surface is completely dry. My guess this was your issue also. Here's the instructions for Tried and True Danish Oil (from their website); Danish Oil A superior penetrating linseed oil finish that is polymerized for fast and easy application on interior woodwork and furniture. It is also ideal for wood paneling, cabinets, salad bowls, wood utensils, butcher blocks and surfaces that come in contact with food. Danish Oil Finish is commonly used by woodworking professionals for application to bare wood or overtop an already-stained piece. Danish Oil will darken the wood slightly and can be combined with oil-based pigments to create wood stains. Danish Oil Application Instructions For all INTERIOR woodworking Apply a very thin coat across entire piece with a lint-free cloth at room temperature. DO NOT USE A BRUSH! A dry to wet color change in the wood should occur, but at no point should there be any puddling. A little bit of finish will go a long way! Allow Danish Oil to penetrate the wood for a minimum of 5 minutes. Rub in briskly with a lint-free cloth until the surface is completely dry. DO THIS BEFORE YOU LET THE PIECE CURE! Drying/curing issues will occur if this step is ignored! If little or no residue comes up on the clean cloth during this step, then you have used the correct amount of finish. Allow the piece to cure for a minimum of 8 hours. Burnish with a soft cloth or 0000 steel wool BEFORE EVERY COAT (even the first and last.) The more you rub the surface, the better the sheen will look. Additional coats will deepen the sheen and increase protection. Care & Maintenance: Use a shammy cloth to polish any dull areas. Clean surface using Murphy’s Oil Soap or other wood safe cleaners. To repair any scratches, nicks, or water marks: Use 0000 grade steel wool to buff out as much of the affected area as possible. Then, use a lint-free cloth to apply a small amount of the Danish Oil to the damage wood. Follow the normal recommended application directions. For watermarks — if damage is severe, sand water mark away using fine grit sand paper until it is smooth and even with the surrounding surface. Reapply the Danish Oil to the water mark by following the normal recommended application directions. Remember to always protect the wood surface using coasters or anti-scalding devices. .
  24. Well Coop, looks like you are ready to tackle another sculptured chair. You have more time on your hands and a new tool. Which one will it be?
  25. Well you said you are trying to get a more delicate look and I like where you are going with this. I think I like the one without the middle piece, less cluttered. But still leaving the middle piece would work very well also. Really interested in seeing how this turns out. One thing that comes to mind with looking at how you did this was how are you planning to sand and finish in the tight spaces where your bandsaw cut is. I was wondering if you thought about getting the same look by cutting strips and gluing up the pieces at the ends (gluing just the area where you didn't cut with the bandsaw). That might give you more control and possibly a few other advantages with sanding and finishing.