Bmac

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Everything posted by Bmac

  1. @Mark J, I have used Osmo before. Used it on the Hank Chairs and on some other pieces. I do like it, esp love the fewer coat it requires. It is a little hassle using Osmo on a piece with all the nooks and corners these chairs have, and my hand was cramping up with all the scrubbing of the finish in different directions and angles. I see myself using the hard waxes more in the future, maybe the hand cramping will stop as build up my scrubbing hand. When I do my Maloof stuff I like to be as authentic as I can be, so I use his finish. Probably unnecessary to think that way, but in a small wa
  2. Yes, thank you Gary, this is a great solution for the interior of these boxes. Placing an order now!
  3. Well the sanding, shaping and finishing is done. Glueups went well and I'm pretty happy with the contours. Used Osmo as the finish, 2 coats. Chairs were delivered to the upholstery guy today; Side shot, pretty happy with the shape and look; A few pics of the contours and shape, not as intricate as the Maloof Rocker; And right before loading in my truck, the two chairs sunning themselves; I'll come back around to these once the cushions are made. Thanks for looking.
  4. Well that is definitely not a failure @Mark J, it would be nice to have those joints disappear a little better, but that is really not bad, you really hold yourself to high standards. The main joint that I see is the lid to body joint. Now I made a bunch of these since I originally started this post, most ready to be given out as Christmas gifts. I do have a few thoughts on these boxes after doing more of them. First, I just live with the rough inside surface, it really doesn't bother me. Secondly, I'm sure you did, but use the blade he recommended and get a new sharp one if yo
  5. There was a lot going on in that piece of wood, and unfortunate about the bark inclusion blot, but it still came out beautiful. It really would have been cool if you found a 5 dollar bill in the chunk, at least you would have broke even. Question on the wood, that wood is much lighter than the walnut I use. Walnut does lighten with time and exposure to UV, but you just turned it. If you told me to guess what type of wood you used, I don't think I would have guessed walnut. Was it Black Walnut or was it possibly English Walnut?
  6. @Mark J, I left the inside of the boxes unsanded, but like @Just Bob said you could do some sanding if you steer clear of the mating surfaces. But by staying away from mating surfaces, that also means staying away from the top of box to body of box junction. That is an area that you cannot sand and won't be hidden in a glue joint. I did some texturing on a few boxes and really enjoyed the process. Now I look at all my scrap wood completely different, esp after this video and doing some carved bowls last year. In fact I find myself admiring firewood chunks like never before. @Just B
  7. Big step forward with this chair. All the pieces have been cut and all domino joints completed. Was able to do my first mock up and see how the chair looks. I did find a few missteps on my part, but for the most part I'm very happy with the look and the way all the parts fit together. The missteps have been noted and will be corrected in my next set of these chairs (I plan to do 2 in walnut when completed with these). Here's the chair assembled, minus the back spindles; Here is my biggest misstep, my bottom back rail was not wide enough. When you look at the origin
  8. Angles, angles, angles, this chair is all about angles. With that said I'm very pleased with how this is progressing, it seems like I have the angles pretty well figured out. As I mentioned earlier there are a few things to get right with this chair, namely the front leg parallel to the back side support. Making those joint surfaces parallel on the backleg/arm support is key with that. Keeping the backside of the side back support perpendicular to that joint is also key. So after emphasizing those points again, here's my progress so far; All the sides are completely glued up, last step wa
  9. I saw that too Coop and was thinking the very exact thing you were thinking. Was thrilled to see they featured his work, well deserved.
  10. Roughing it out with the Festool Ras 115, then cleaning it up and refining with rasps. Finally a random orbital sander with an interface pad.
  11. On to completing the sides of the chair. My plan is to glue up the sides, then determine joint locations for the cross pieces. I'll shape/sculpt the outer face of the side pieces, but leave the inside faces untouched as the 90 degree angles will help me with my joints. I'll only shape those inner faces once I have all the cross pieces fitted, but before glue up of cross pieces. One important guide for me is the back edge of the backrest support, this area is flat and will be a reference point for me with placement of the back rest. Here are the 4 sides glued up, minus the arms, they need
  12. Looking good, and don't listen to @treeslayer, no days off allowed.
  13. Back at it. I've done about as much research as I could do. Now it's time to put things on paper. Started with a flat line representing a flat surface the legs will sit on. From there I transferred the heights of all the significant parts to the chair- seat, arm, and back of chair. These heights are marked in relation to the line and this is where I start. I also have lengths for the back leg/arm support, front leg, and backrest support. Also have the angles, from there got to this; A few key measurements here- you want the backrest to be parallel to the front leg.
  14. Very interesting design, but it does look surprisingly simple. I think you can easily figure this out without plans. I wouldn't worry too much about stool hieght, height will be determined by counter height. Typical counter height of 35-37" calls for stool height around 24-26", bar height of 40-42" calls for stool height 29-31". Grain orientation should be carefully considered for the legs, but if you have good grain orientation I think you will be fine. I would consider adding strechers, esp if you are going with the higher stool height. I don't think it will detract from the design too
  15. Excellent job with those drawer fronts, looking great.
  16. I agree on both counts, that Maloof lounge chair is a better looking chair, but I don't dislike this chair.
  17. This chair has always interested me, a true Danish MCM classic. It's a chair that has been in the back of my mind to tackle and last Jan when I moved my son into his new apartment, a number of remakes of this chair occupied the lobby of his complex. I was so happy to get a chance to sit in and inspect one. It's a comfortable low slung lounge chair that I think could be made with loose tenons (domino) as long as I could figure out the angles and dimensions. I've quietly been researching this chair for the past few months and I think I have enough info to jump in. Finding the plans and details o
  18. So sorry to hear that. I agree with you Shane, losing stuff is something I could overcome because insurance replaces stuff. Insurance doesn't replace what you put into you pieces, nothing can replace that. My condolences and wish you the best in rebuilding.
  19. I'm in the bayside waters behind Long Beach Island NJ. The official name of the body of water is Little Egg Harbor.
  20. Well @Mark J, you asked for on the water pics, so here goes; "Yours truly" on the maiden voyage; Some appropriate pics waterside; The kayak handled well, was a complete joy to use. It was well worth the effort to make and I can't wait to make another. Thanks for looking
  21. I agree that on the water pics are a requirement for this one. They will be coming. @wtnhighlander I also agree , option D sounds best.
  22. Alright, I have not been hiding, I've been varnishing my a*% off. Four coats top and four coats bottom after a lot of fairing and sanding of the epoxy base. After varnishing, on went the additions that make the boat complete. Here are the pics; Ready for the water, fully rigged and set up, just need to add the float bag for the front compartment; Handmade walnut handles drilled thru hull; Front bungee cords, left them a little long to see how it goes; Bungee cords again and hatch behind the cockpit; Hatch in place and off, you can see the
  23. Very nice Cliff, great result and great grain selection. That was air dried walnut, correct? I don't think you typically see those colors in kiln dried.
  24. @wtnhighlander, I have no idea if that would work or not, interesting thought. If it really bothered me I think the thing to do would have been to sand out before adding extra epoxy. If you look at it with a fresh coat of epoxy you can see it's less obvious, in fact I think some of the filler I used at the deck to combing juncture looks worse.
  25. Another big milestone, for the most part all the pieces of the kayak are together and glued in place. I still have little stuff like the seat, backrest, tiedowns and toggles for the hatch to put on the boat, but that will be after finishing. So after glassing the deck I got some of my parts epoxied on for the cockpit and hatch opening; After that I cleaned up and feathered the hull area where the glassing draped over on to it. You can see a few drip lines and the edge of the glass. Epoxy should fill that in.; So on to another coat of epoxy over the glassed dec