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Everything posted by Bmac

  1. I'm not sure, but the container of wood dust is pretty darn light also. I think the weight difference is minimal. The nice thing about wood dust is if you need extra it's pretty much free. There is a form on the deck that will be the cockpit. I just put the strips up against it to form the man hole.
  2. Well I didn't forget about this. Went away this weekend, but did some work on it during the week and today after we got home. Here's my progress so far. The hull of the boat is pretty much done, last step was to glass the outside, after a quick sanding. This went smoothly and all my experience glassing boards really paid off. Here's the glassing laid out; Now with the epoxy; Time to move to the top deck. First forms for the strips were hot glued in place. this was a little bit of a headache, but it worked out; The top of the forms were covered with packing tape; First strip went around the outside. The strips have a bead on one side and a cove on the other. The bead needs to face out, cove facing in, and you want the first strip to slightly overhang the hull. This first strip needed to be glued together with a scarf joint to get one long enough. The curvature is rather extreme, esp from the sitting area to the stern. The first strip was nailed in place onto the forms and once the second strip is glued on it starts to hold it's shape: I ended up with 3 strips of walnut glued together to form the outer perimeter. Then I ripped the cove off two strips, glued them together and they will form the center strip, bead facing out so I have everything lined up in the right direction, bead and cove wise, here you can see the center strip in place; Now it's a matter of filling the space between the outside perimeter and the center strip, using creative license to mix and match different woods; So I hope to get the deck put together this week, then it will be carefully removed from the hull. Right now some nails are holding it in place. I sure hope it comes off in one piece! Thanks for looking.
  3. Bmac

    Shinto Rasp

    It's my understanding you can. I think the process can be used on both machine and hand stitched rasps. Their website do not specify they only sharpen machine stitched. Your question prompted me to do some research and I found on other sites that people have had Auriou rasps sharpened by Boggs, but there was a lot of questioning whether they would sharpen them. They use a liquid honing technique that uses abrasives in steam pressure to sharpen the back side of the teeth.
  4. Looks like you beat @Coop to it.
  5. I can't take all of Spanky's good wood.
  6. I'm digging this, nice work. I'm not a huge fan of his Conoid chair either. But I want to definitely make some because of my addiction to chairs. It's also a chair that I think non woodworkers marvel at.
  7. Bmac

    Shinto Rasp

    It seems I'm using rasps for every project, whether to fair a curve or to round an edge. Shinto is a nice tool, but can't be used inside a concave curve, I have one and use it for aggressive stock removal. I also have Liogier and Auriou, like the Auriou a touch better. Only have a few coarser rasps for quick material removal, but I go to them first for this because of the control I have. Rasps really allow me to refine curves. Most of mine are finer rasps and I find new ways to use them every project. Quick question, does anyone remember the organization that can "resharpen" rasps? I have one that I think I finally wore out.
  8. Let's keep this thing moving forward. Important steps today, did the filleting and glassing of the inside of the hull. It takes 4 steps pretty much in succession. I mixed a lot of epoxy. No mess of fish yet @Chip Sawdust! So I started with removing all the wires and fitting some blocks to the stern area. These will be imbedding in epoxy. You can just do and end pour after the construction and fill this area with epoxy, adding rigidity and allowing for a hole to be drilled thru the stern for a rope handle. I'm accomplishing this with these blocks, it does save some weight; Next it the filleting of the seams. This is pronounce fill-it, and basically that's what you are doing to the seams. You mix epoxy to peanut butter consistency by adding wood flour and load it into a bag and squirt it along the seams like a baker puts icing on a cake. Seems like a lot of food references doesn't it. Well you have to work fast on this step because the mass of epoxy will start to heat up and kick into hardening mode. Spreading it out allows for the heat to dissapate and it doesn't set as fast once you get it into the seams. So no pics of the process, just the finished product, you want just enough to fill the seams, any more doesn't add strength, just extra weight; Once the fillets start to set you move on to glassing the seams, Here is the glass prior to wetting with epoxy; The smoother your fillets the better you glassing looks. After you place the glass you wet it with epoxy and coat the inside of the boat with epoxy; Soon after this step you move on to glassing a sheet of glass in the floor of the hull where you sit. This just adds some rigidity and strength to this area. Here it is with the glass in place and wetted with epoxy, it's hard to see but if you look close you'll see the glassing; Oh, and here's a pic of the stern where the blocks are imbedded in epoxy and wood flour; So one more step today, I need to fill the weave of the glass in the seating area of the hull, this is done with a coat of epoxy. A lot of steps but it went fast, this project is much easier than I thought it would be so far. My experince glassing surf boards really helps here. On tap this week is to flip the boat over, sand and shape the exterior surface of the hull. Not a lot of sanding and shaping, rounding over sharp angles and sanding epoxy drips. Once the hull is sanded it's on to glassing the outside of the hull. Thanks for looking!
  9. For today I now have what looks like a kayak. On tap was to finish stitching, working and getting alighment of the panels correct, and tacking the panels together with epoxy. Here's the kayak after stitching; Checking out to make sure there is no twist in the kayak; It's amazing how simple it was to get to this stage. There is a lot of stress on the wires in some areas, but it still is not too hard to coax the panels together. Here is the tacking of the joints with epoxy. I was told to mix it with wood flour until it was the consistency of ketchup. It seems like they use a lot of condiment references in the manual; Then the bow and stern will filled in with a peanut butter consistency of wood flour and epoxy; After 24 hrs I'll take out the wires and do my fillets. This will be the glue mixture that "holds the kayak together. If this seems wierd or you think I just like making food refernces, you'll have to look at my next post to see what I'm talking about. Thanks for looking.
  10. It's my understanding Hal does a few different things, esp with the headrest. Best plan hands down is Marc's. His instruction videos are superb, I mean really superb.
  11. Let's get this thing going. I made the drive to Annapolis MD to pick up my kit. Threw the few boxes in my F250 and home I went so excited to start. It's completely amazing how well the kit was packed and amazing how few pieces you start with. Most of the stuff are cans of varnish, epoxy, and other construction essentials. They really do outfit you well with this build. So here's the "kayak" unpacked; The 2 stacks of wood you see wrapped in plastic are not actuall part of the kayak, they will be used as forms for the strip decking. Here's my progress on day one. After unpacking and getting organized, I start by putting together the hull. The hull will basically be 4 panels stitched together. Each one of these panels are in 2 pieces, so the first thing to do is to glue the panels together. Chesapeake Light Craft's CNC generated parts are pretty darn incredible. The joint is a puzzle piece fit; And the fit is dead on perfect; Another thing to notice, see the tiny holes in the bottom right of the pic, those come already drilled and those are the holes you use to stitch Before glueing, I did my best to pick panels that matched and made sure the best sides faced out. Then using epoxy and a fiberglass strip I glued the panels together; I used some left over fast set epoxy left over from my SUP build, so after a few hrs I was ready to move on. Quick cleanup with a sander. Oh, and another point, you want the glassed section of the joint to the inside of the kayak, the outer side of the joint has no glassing, just some excess epoxy. Once the panels are glued you prepare for the stitching of the hull. The mating surfaces are beveled. This went quickly with a rasp, again take note of the holes for the stitches; Cut my copper wire, 4 rolls included in the kit, way more than I'll need; Then the lower two pieces of the hul are laid together, inside face to inside face and you start threading wires through the holes. I was amazed that all the holes matched perfectly with each other. After stitching the hull you open it up like an envelop and wire in forms to create the shape. Here it is after those steps; Once I get the next panels on I'll tighten up the wires to close the seams, make sure everything to square and level. I will say the bow and stern were very difficult to bring to gether. The above pic is the stern, was able to get one of these holes stitched, but not the top one yet. Left it that way until the next day hoping the wood fibers will have "adapted". If not then they recommend wetting the plywood. Thanks for looking.
  12. I measure from the front after the boards are cut to length and I cut my joints before the glueup of the seat. As for the back legs, you may not be as far off as you think, once the joint is cut in the leg and the leg placed on the seat, you will have the seat overhang, or stand proud of the leg. This is ok and will be cut back later once yoy start sculpting/shaping the final look of the seat. Now in my build, using Brock's and Marc's plan, an adder block is added to the inside part of the leg and this is something you could do also. I think I showed that process clearly in my posts.
  13. ^^^ What he said. Nut is right on with the angle and the drop. Drop is real important to keep you in your seat. Now I might go closer to the 7 degree angle for the back based off of that kind of chair. I would think you don't want to recline too much since your feet need to rest on the foot rest. As for stock i'd seriously consider 6/4 or more. If you went 8/4 you could even shape in some slight curve to the leg, you can even possibly do it with 6/4. If you keep the legs straight I'd not go less than 5/4, that chair will look better with a more substain leg, at least in my opinion. I actually think the legs look too skinny in both of those pics you posted. I really think using thicker stock (6/4 or 8/4) and doing some sculpting/shaping would really improve the look. Finally, since you did the Maloof bar stools, see if you can add some elements from those into these chairs, that would be fun to try. Also sculpted seats would naturally give you the front to back drop. Of course please understand you are getting this advice from a Maloof junkie so take it for what it's worth.
  14. I've been a little quiet on here lately. Since going back to the dental office, I've had 3 months of patients backed up. This has really cut into my free time so I'm needing this project to give me some sanity. After I finished my SUP (which I documented on here) in April, I had enough time and wood to build a second one before going back to work. They have gotten a lot of use since then, and their success got me wondering about building a Kayak (which might turn into plural in the future). So after doing the research, I decided to go the kit route. The kit will include instructions, glassing, epoxy, hardware and the wood. The kayak will have a stitched and glued plywood hull and a cedar strip deck. It's considered a hybrid build since it incorporates both types of kayak construction that is typically done now. The kit was purchased from Chesapeake Light Craft (CLC) out of Annapolis MD, ( They offer dozens of kayak models and it's pretty impressive with the builds they offer. I was a little reluctant to give in to the kit route, but really the only difference would be to buy the plywood and the strips then use their patterns to cut out my parts. What CLC does is it uses a CNC to cut out the plywood parts, resulting in much more accurate pieces than I could cut. The strips for the deck with have a cove and bead edging for quick and effective construction. @pkinneb has a stitch and glue kayak post on here from a few years back, I won't be as lucky as he was though as he built most of it in lovely Maine. I'm planning to do this build in my garage, not my workshop, that way I can still do some woodworking as I'm waiting for epoxy to cure and varnish to dry. The model I've choose to build is their Woodduck 12. It's a beamy boat with good stability, not very long (12ft), but perfect for cruising back bays and for fishing from. Here a some samples of Woodduck 12s built from these kits. The pattern for the strip deck is something I'll have the freedom to design, but will take more time to construct than if I went with a plywood deck. I'll be making the trip to Annapolis today to pick up my kit, it will be a pleasant 2.5 hr round trip, giving me plenty of time to daydream about the finished product. Thanks for looking!
  15. Thats a real nice start with the seat.
  16. So yes, the legs splay. With my Rocker builds, using Marc's plan (which is from Charles Brock), we do a 6 degree splay. This is not accomplished with the seat cut but by adding a 6 degree adder black to the inside of the back leg. I've never seen Scott Morrison's video on the rocker build. I've used him for some other sculptured chair builds, so I'm not familiar with his technique here in splaying the back legs. What I can say is whe you are doing those cuts to splay the legs on my build, I always get confused and mixed up on which direction the angle cut is, and it always seems like I'm not doing it right until I do it and put the leg up to the chair seat. Trust Scott and do it the way he says and you'll be fine.
  17. Yes, I understand that, I plan to use this for fishing so speed isn't a big factor. The stability of it's 30" beam was a big factor in my choice. I have my eye on another kayak if I like this build and I enjoy kayaking, that one will be a longer and faster model.
  18. Thanks for the link, I'll try to follow along too. My kit is for the Wood Duck 12 and is from Chesapeake Light Craft also. I only live an hour away from them and I hope to pick up the kit next week.
  19. Andrew, I too want to hear about your ship kit builds. I'm beginning kayak shortly. The build will be a hybrid of stitch and glue with a strip planking for the deck. I've yet to do one of these builds but they look very interesting and I'd love to see some of your builds.
  20. No, you did it the way I was trying to eplain, some cuts from the top and some from the bottom is the key!
  21. OK, this is a tricky part and I use two methods. First if you put your boards down with the tops up and try to domino with the boards on the bench, you will have a problem when you have an acute angle since the domino doesn't adj to an acute angle. So, do the joints you can with the boards and the domino resting on the bench. Now, the joints where you can't do this; flip the boards over and domino from the side of the board now facing up. Make sure you adj the height of the domino and keep the domino in the bottom 1/4 of the board and do both boards involved with the joint this way. To help you can adjust your domino fence to match the angle like I did.
  22. Thanks for the kind words. Doing these rockers are a real pleasure, hope you experience that in your build. Would love to see pics of your project too. Project journals are my favorite part of this forum and I've become a better woodworker by posting my work!
  23. Bmac


    I'm not a turner so the advice I'll give should be taken with that understanding. First seal the ends and select the larger rounds with straight grain, avoiding knots. I would then split in half, down the pith, if you don't split them you will get radial cracking. From there you could store them in a garbage with or without wet sawdust. You could also turn some rough bowls or whatever while wet and then dry them slowly. As for the 8" elm, that's pretty small, but again you could split the larger pieces down the pith and try to use. I've taken pieces like this and carved bowls out of the 1/2 rounds while wet, pleasure to carve wet wood. It's a pleasure to turn wet wood (so I hear).
  24. Dang, that's good!
  25. The smaller box is Curly Hard Maple, left over from my rocker build last year. The other box is Norway Maple with a Black Walnut lid.