Bmac

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Everything posted by Bmac

  1. Dave, thanks for posting!!!
  2. As you guys know I'm in the shop a lot, and as a result I generate a lot of scraps, mostly designated for the woodstove. That has always bothered me because some of the wood I burn is really nice stuff, it's just odd shaped or too small to do much with. Lately I've donated alot of my scraps to a few young budding woodworkers. This gets rid of a good amt of stuff and they are so happy to have it. But I still have that pile of wood, I'm sure we all have it, that pile of some nice pieces we hope we will find a use for in the future. Well my pile just seems to keep on growing despite my efforts to
  3. That should turn out to be a very nice piece, I'm not an A & C guy, but that has a classic and attractive A & C look too it. Solid joinery should apply well to this design and you'll have some nice options for finish. Hope to see this turn into a journal!
  4. Well that would work well then. I was using your initial drawing of the space and it must not be drawn to scale, the sides of the couches in that diagram are shorter than the angled back wall section which you have labeled as 30" long. The sketch up of the table had the sides of the end table at 32", that's why I was concerned about the corner sticking out. The above pic also has the couches much closer together, which makes your design a perfect fit for that spot, as long as the width of the couches correspond to the length of the table sides. Also in the pics above the sides of the couc
  5. The above designs are looking good and have the desired Arts and Crafts look. Also the thought process of a table you can use in this angled corner or you can turn around and use in a square corner is a good one. What I think could be a problem with your design though is that sharp corner you are going to have sticking out between the sofas. I think if you put that shape into the first picture of the space you showed you would see what I mean. If I'm understanding the dimensions correctly, you are going to have two 32" sides coming to a point, I think that will jut out quite a ways into
  6. Or think outside the box with a top shaped like this; Maybe 4 legs in the "corners"? Not sure what I'd do below but the shape of this top could end up as a different and cool table.
  7. I'd be looking into something that is oval, that would fit in the space well. Here's a link that could give you a good starting point; https://www.steinhafels.com/merchandise/product/details/arts-and-crafts-end-table-849184130 I really like this design, I think this could be made into an oval;
  8. Permission granted, enthusiastically.
  9. Very nice MCM piece, like the leg design also. Had to chuckle about the change of heart with your new bride wanting maple used now. I think in the past I've heard you have some distaste, or at least a lack of love for it. Good news for you with your mill it's probably easier to nab some silver maple logs where you live. I'm so fortunate with my wife, I make what I want and she loves it, very few requests. The biggest problem is talking her into throwing out or giving away old furniture to make room for the new stuff. She'll ask what are you going to put there instead, I tell her to
  10. Very Nice Coop, great job. Love the look with the frosted glass (I'm guessing). Thanks for sharing.
  11. Very viable options that I had not thought out.
  12. Didn't see your post before I posted the exact same thought!
  13. OK, why have I never run across this thing, I think it's pretty darn useful. I got the Morley Lounge Chair project from Marc and hadn't looked at it yet. But yesterday when @jussi posted about the L-fence and the technique Morley was using I went and watched him using it. Then I went online and found a few articles about this fence, and man this is useful. I'm making one this weekend! Here's a neat article; http://woodarchivist.com/1350-table-saw-l-fence/
  14. Yes in theory the size of the post would be a factor. Both table tops were close to being the same width/size. But there is some room to play with, the leg could have a bigger sweep or curve to meet up with the table top bevel. This is as good as an alternative as changing the size of the hexagonal post. As for how I came up with the original size for the hexagonal post, that was purely just to make the glue surfaces of the hexagon to be around the same width I wanted the legs to be, which was a little bigger than an inch. If you make the hexagonal post bigger than you either have wider
  15. Fished with a guy that used his sawzall to clean fish. Granted these where fish that are notoriously hard to clean, large black drum. It worked well going thru their thick scales, but it was alittle messy in the end.
  16. Well you are right, the idea took awhile to figure out. When I realized I needed a smaller table in the other thread I started playing around with some ideas. I was struggling with how to do the leg structure and attach it to the top. Thinking to use the hexagonal post started me toward this design, and it wasn't until I realized since the top was going to be thicker that I could use a decent sized dowel to hold the top to the leg column that I figured this design out. And the first table took a little longer to build. But once that was taken care of, this second table really was a long weeken
  17. Yes, dated and signed, I'm pretty good with that.
  18. I wanted to share this build, it really goes quickly and it's a design that I came up with while posting the story on the log, the slab and the table. The joinery is simple and by varying the size of the legs it can serve as an end table, a plant stand, or (fill in the blank). I like how there is a certain flow that develops from the underside of the table down into the legs. This area is refined and sculpted after the table is put together. @Mark J noted in my previous build post that he liked this small table better than the table the post was about. I tend to agree with him. I'll take you t
  19. With the saw, what's the max depth of cut on that? I can't seem to find that info out on the specs of that tool anywhere.
  20. Thank you @JohnG and the others who enjoyed this "story" for the kind words. Having a forum to show your ideas and your work inspires not just those observing but can inspire those doing the work. This forum has inspired me in my woodworking journey both ways, when I post a project and when others post projects. I am in an unique place with my woodworking as I create not for a living or even need, but for the joy of it. I realize how fortunate of a place that is.
  21. Well we've reached the final chapter and after a few coats of Osmo, which I'm using a lot more and really liking, the story of the log that became a table is over. If you've followed up to this point you are probably interested in how the table turned out, well I'd say I'm very pleased. I know @RichardA has enjoyed this story, but I am beginning to wonder where his mind goes sometimes! Here's the table with the chairs in a MCM sitting area. Great place to read or enjoy a cigar and scotch, if you are in to those things and your wife lets you smoke in the house. The table fits perfectly and
  22. Dave, interested very much in that post about the Spurtles too. I really do need to find ways to use up scraps for small simple priojects. Thanks for sharing and don't forget to do that Spurtles post!
  23. Exactly, the legs are at the drip line of the table, perfect way to put it. So the way Chet put it is what I was shooting for, gives the table a lot of stability. It's a coffee table so you don't want it to be tippy.
  24. As the story of this little table continues, it's on to the legs and aprons. As I mentioned in the opening chapter, the highlight of this piece is clearly the top. The bottom support will not be easily visible, so the idea is to have a subtle leg and apron structuce that allows the top to be all it can be. In determining leg position in an oval table you can put them on the ends and the sides of the table or you can put them on the "corners". When I say "corners" I'm referring to where the corners used to be. I find doing a traditional leg structure at the corners of an oval table tricky, it's
  25. Well if by float you mean using figure 8's or slots with hold downs yes, that's the plan with the legs and apron. But I do plan to have the apron up against the bottom of the table top. I won't "float" the top above the rails. In the end it won't matter much what I do esthetically, it will be a low table, about 13" off the floor so you won't see much below it. I do want people to notice the legs and how they project from under the table, and since they have a curve I want them to slightly project from the "corners" of the oval table. This will mean a 45 or similar degree angle for the jo