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Everything posted by Bmac

  1. Here you go Rickey, table top is the curly oak, just an oil finish; Here are a few boards milled and waiting to be put to use, some real nice curl in these boards!
  2. I'll make a note and take/post some pics. Keep an eye out for them!
  3. I agree with Derek, I started with the veritas (which I found adequate) and on his recommendation bought the Gramercy saw. It did take awhile to get used to it, harder to start, but once comfortable with the saw it is a pleasure.
  4. Yes, you will like them, may like them so much you buy more. The light weight is such an advantage as I stated before!
  5. Don’t know, not a real ash fan. With me not working I might need to save my pennies for that maple log But it would be cool to make a curly ash baseball bat
  6. @pkinneb, Yes, I have been very pleased with the Dubuque clamps, strong and very durable. Love the fact that they are so light compared to pipe clamps!
  7. In the end having different styles of clamps let you do more. I would recommend getting different styles and different lengths. The quick grips have their place, but you definitely don't want to spend the price for these in larger sizes. I mostly use the quick grip style to clamp stuff down to the workbench. My main clamps are aluminum bar clamps. These are not too expensive, they are light, and do great for most simple clamping jobs and excel at gluing up panels. Pipe clamps basically do the same job, but I much prefer the much lighter aluminum. Size wise the 24" clamps do most jobs. These aluminum bar clamps have served me for many many years. My second most used clamp are the F style clamp, these too can be gotten pretty inexpensively and some guys have already posted a few sources at good prices. I'd get a bunch of these at smaller sizes, say 8", and a few at larger sizes. These larger F style clamps (I have four at 36") come in pretty handy for some clamping situations. My next clamp I use, but not nearly as often as the ones above, are the parallel style clamp. These are great clamps and I should use them more but they are more expensive and I only have a handful of them. These do have a great large clamping area and great clamping pressure. Biggest problem I have with these is it's often easier to just grab the lighter aluminum bar clamps.
  8. Super Job! Awesome result on a challenging project.
  9. Time to wrap this up and I'm excited to get my shop back. For the past week I've mixed more epoxy than I ever care to mix, and I still have a little more to mix. SUP has been glassed and epoxied, I also glassed and epoxied a smaller 6' board I had made last month. Just waited to do them together. Made 3 paddles and I still have some work to go on those but I'm waiting for another shipment of epoxy. So here's the final result, I'm really happy with it and I love the way the red cedar works with the paulownia, looks better than the walnut paulownia combo. Glad to get this huge project done. I knew it was going to be a big/long project so hence the virus inspired. Now on to another project. Thanks for looking.
  10. I got to start building more stuff then!
  11. So I'm losing track, how many curly maple logs are you going to mill?
  12. Well guys I build em but I've yet to use em. I'm following the tried and true design. It's my understanding, and hopefully my experience this summer, that the bend faces away from you when paddling. The paddle is supposed to enter the water in front of you and exit the water once the paddle becomes parallel to you. This angle allows for more efficient paddling, so I'm told. Doing research for this project I found a site on common paddleboard mistakes. Listed as #1 was using the paddle backwards. Now I'm sure you could make a straight paddle and have it work, but this is the preferred design. So as I learn to paddleboard this summer I may not know what I'm doing but at least I'll look like I know what I'm doing!
  13. Well I'm in the process of glassing and epoxy coating the board. At the same time I'm glassing another surf board with my son, I had built that earlier this spring. I'm getting sort of tired of this build, I miss my chairs and the glassing process and sanding process is somewhat tedious. So as a distraction I started on the paddles. For the handles it will have a 10 degree bend at the paddle head, the handle will be somewhat oval, 1.5" by 1.25", and the top of the handle will have a "T" type end. Started with the jig for the 10 degree bend; Strips of paulownia and cherry where prepped about 3/16ths thick and glued; All glued up. Made this blank 3.5" wide, I'll be able to get two handles out of this blank; Jointed and sized both handles and now onto the paddle head. cut out pattern for shape; Using strips of red cedar and paulownia here; Glued and then shaped; Still need to shape the handle more and work on the "T" top. Thanks for looking.
  14. Well I'm not sure, never used a vacuum bag but this is a cumbersome thing. Also the pieces/strips for the sides often need positioning after each sucessive clamp placement. So I may have a 5 ft strip, glue is applied to the strip, clamped in position at one end, other clamps to be used are lined up ready to go, next clamp placed, strip positioned, clamp snugged down. So on and so on, some strips may need 20 clamps. Often I'm bending the strip in 2 directions, around the board and to follow the sweep or curve of the board. If a vacumm bag could be used I like the idea of even uniform pressure from all directions that is offers.
  15. Good question, paddles are very dependent on length for individuals and their height. Ideally you want the paddle 9-10” longer than the person’s height who is using it. Also, if used in the surf you want a paddle that is shorter than one you use in quiet water. Since my family members are different heights and we expect to use it in the back bays and in the surf I’m going to make 2 different paddle lengths that hopefully cover those different uses and heights. My one son who will likely use it in the surf is taller than me by about 4” and my daughter who will likely use it in the bay is about 3” shorter than me. So if I use my height and make two paddles based off my height I should have my bases covered. Also, I have to make a jig to bend strips to form the paddle, so if I’m doing that I figured may as well make at least two, and if it’s simple I may may more. The bend will be approx 10 degrees at the junction on the shaft and the paddle head.
  16. So where I left off with this project I was gluing up the "rails", or the sides of the board. If you remember I added 2 strips the length of the board, staggering them and then connected them with a third and larger strip. So now that the glue ups are finally over, it's on to shaping. And believe me i'm glad the glue ups are over! So for shaping I'll use primarily just a few tools, the RAS doing the bulk reduction, rasp refining the shape, and a sander with an interface pad on to smooth; With the RAS I can get the shape pretty close, here's a pic of a small section of rail where the RAS still has some reduction left to do, but you can see how well it's done on either side of the unreduced area, you can also see the 3 distinct strips and how they are staggered, or stepped; Here we are with the RAS work completed and if you look closely the outline is not perfectly smooth. The rasp work will fix that; Now here are some pics after sanding, you will see 3 different results, first in this pic you can barely tell where the 3 strips begin and end; in this pic you can see the strips but the joint looks tight; In this pic I didn't get the joint closed up as well as I would have liked and you can see a very pronounced glue line; Now I'm not happy about that last pic, but the glassing and epoxy will take care of that. In the boards I've done, I've found it's very hard to close down every joint the whole length of the joint when you are curving and bending long strips into place. You just never seem to have enough clamps. Finally here are a few pics of the final shaped board; What's next is, glassing, adding the fins, vents and handle, then a final coat of epoxy. Oh, and then I need to make a paddle, or paddles rather. Thanks for looking.
  17. Just like the Government wants to fill it's strategic oil reserves, I want to stock pile high quality lumber in my strategic reserves.
  18. Yes correct, glass and epoxy when all put together
  19. No worries Chip, I knew you were teasing.
  20. I've had this build on my to do list for a while and I put it off, and now I remember why, because there are so many glueups. I've already been through two 16 oz bottles of TB III. So @Chip Sawdust is right, this does seem to be going slow. But I have made progress so here's the update. Top deck is done so it was on to the bottom deck. This glue up is a little more tricky since the top deck prevents getting good clamping pressure onto the ribs. So some creative clamping did the trick. Center board is the first to be glued; And working my way out from there; Once I got most of the lower deck glued up I wanted to get the nose boards put on. Started with cleaning up the front of the board. Before cleanup; After cleanup; So now that I have a nice surface to glue to I started with adding my boards. In this pic you can see I was able to tie my clamps into the board frame where I had not yet put my decking on. This worked out great and I don't think I could have done this as effectively if all my decking was in place. Also I left the first boards very proud of the deck. I used this lip to glue on successive boards. So then it was a matter of glue up after glueup, alternating 8 boards. Here's the end result with some rough shaping to get the nose boards flush with the deck; Next a little rough shaping of the nose. Really like as I shape and round the front that the light color paulownia peeks out from the cedar; Now on to the sides. First I need to flush up the deck and the frame and make the top deck even with the bottom deck; Now that I have a nice surface to glue too I start adding strips; In this pic you can see I'm adding a second strip to the first strip. After getting two strips added to the top and bottom I'll "connect" the top to the bottom with 1 last strip, then it will be all closed up. And finally, here's how the tail is shaping up; So I have got a lot done but it does feel like slow going. I can get a couple glue ups done, then I need to wait a few hrs before moving on. So in between glue ups I've been working in my yard. Just redid my garden beds. So I have been productive in more ways then one; Thanks for looking.
  21. Yes Coop, say you left the board laying on the beach. The sun heats it up, the air inside heats up and since the board has been glassed and sealed with epoxy there is no where for the air to escape. This air expansion can cause the decking to delaminate off of the support ribs ot for the decking to split or crack. At least that is the theory behind the vent.
  22. Very nicely done. Always enjoy your projects.
  23. Quick update on the SUP. Last post of progress was on Tues, and I haven't moved as fast as I was hoping. Partly because we've had some nice weather and work on my garden/yard/house pulled me out of the shop. But that's ok, I'm still moving forward and the amount of glueups has been tedious. After finishing the top decking I began prep for adding the lower decking and for "closing" up the board. I have a few things that need to be done internally before adding the bottom deck. First is added glue strips to the plywood framework, a real long process. Here are my strips prior to sizing, and in the end I used all these; Gluing up to the plywood framework, glue to the center and to the cross pieces; Next I need to make sure that all the chambers of the board are connected for even air pressure. Some simply holes placed in the center support; And some notches in the cross pieces. These notches allow not only air flow but also can act as drain knotches in case water gets in the board, not that I plan that to happen; And here's the board woth the ribs glued on and all ready for the deck; Couple other things to point out. Blocking for leash cup and air vent. I'll be using an combination device fitted with a goretex membrane. This membrane prevents water for coming in but allows air to escape. The hole in the block will be centered at the bottom of the larger hole I'll drill into the top of the board to insert the leash cup/vent; Next, I prepped the back and front of the board for blocking the will form the nose and tail. Here's the tail; Here's the nose; Finally, got the fin finallized, First cut out; Next mark the midline; Then shaped/feathered both edges down to that line, this is called the foil for the fin; So the next steps will be leveling the supports, alittle work on blocks for the nose, and the adding the bottom deck. Thanks for looking!
  24. Sounds good, have you been playing it safe down there?
  25. Of course you can retire at 32, your $ for your habit may dry up though and you may lose your girl. Now if you can afford to retire at 32, you definitely did something right. Now that you have your mill, you need to get your hands on a paulownia tree.