Bmac

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Posts posted by Bmac

  1. 2 hours ago, Mark J said:

    I think every manufacturer's finish product lines are confusing (and deliberately so), until you figure out what works and what to just ignore.

    I keep Osmo simple.  I only use the PolyX-Oil (satin).  

    But it sounds like you use Top Oil as a finish on it's own.  I thought that Top Oil was meant to go on top of PolyX-Oil?  Oh, now I've gone and made it complicated.

    I've been using Top Oil both ways, I'll put it on top of PolX-Oil for a table top, not sure if necessary though. I'll also use Top Oil for kitchen items (cutting boards, bowls etc). But again you could probably get away with just PolyX. Top Oil claims are that it is food safe, I'm not sure if PolyX is food safe. 

    I agree Mark, this product line (and many others) is so confusing. Just the name PolyX is confusing in that it sounds like it has polyurethane as a component. Then they have what seem to be different PolyX lines or types (high solid, low solids, coloring, satin, clear, gloss, intensive finish, original, new improved, floor wax, furniture wax, 3031, 3043, raw, pure, wood wax.....

  2. A little goes a long way, I think it has a "softer" feel to it after just 2 coats than you get with 3 coats of varnish/oil and 3 coats oil/wax. 

    Agree, the product line is confusing, looks like Woodcraft trimmed it down to what is good for woodworkers. I'm using the Polyx Oil with high solids, no coloring. Also use the Top Oil, which is food safe and great for cutting boards and spurtles. 

  3. 4 minutes ago, rainjer said:

    @Bmac The point would be behind the the couches.

     

    corner table 10.JPG

    corner table 9.JPG

    Well that would work well then. I was using your initial drawing of the space and it must not be drawn to scale, the sides of the couches in that diagram are shorter than the angled back wall section which you have labeled as 30" long. The sketch up of the table had the sides of the end table at 32", that's why I was concerned about the corner sticking out.

    The above pic also has the couches much closer together, which makes your design a perfect fit for that spot, as long as the width of the couches correspond to the length of the table sides. Also in the pics above the sides of the couches are longer than the 30" section of the angled back wall, at a different scale than the original diagram.

    Now with the above pic, I'm not sure I'd do a lower shelf on the table since it won't be accessible.

  4. The above designs are looking good and have the desired Arts and Crafts look. Also the thought process of a table you can use in this angled corner or you can turn around and use in a square corner is a good one. 

    What I think could be a problem with your design though is that sharp corner you are going to have sticking out between the sofas. I think if you put that shape into the first picture of the space you showed you would see what I mean. If I'm understanding the dimensions correctly, you are going to have two 32" sides coming to a point, I think that will jut out quite a ways into the room between the two sofas. 

    Now, if you want that same shape, which is nice, then make the two sides that go into the front corner about the same length as the sides of the sofas and move the sofas closer together, then the point will not stick out. Or if you can't move the sofas then look again at my hand drawn sketch, that was why I put the radius on the outer "corner" of the table. Now instead of a radius you could just cut off the corner and make that cut off edge parallel to the back angled edge. It would likely be much shorter in length to the back edge, and if it's not too long it probably still could be flipped around and not look too bad in a 90 degree corner. 

    Just my 2 cents

     

    • Like 1
  5. 1 hour ago, Mark J said:

    One could enlarge the hexagon without also enlarging the leg mounting faces.  The hexagon need not be equilateral (6 identical sides).  Keep the leg faces fixed at 1 inch or so, but make the non-leg faces much longer until you have the size you want.  This will create a 6 sided figure that looks like a triangle with the 3 points nipped off.  

    As an alternative to keeping the long sides of the hexagon flat that might look better one could make these surfaces concave.  In which case I might cut that curve the same radius of curvature as table top.  

    Just a couple of ideas.  

    Very viable options that I had not thought out. 

  6. 2 hours ago, Coop said:

    @Bmac, the hexagonal “post”, you mentioned was left over from the “original table”. Is the original table the journal on the “The Story of A Log”? I re-read that journal and don’t see the post being used. 

    The reason for asking is, I was wondering if the width of the “post” was proportional to the width of the table top on this Afterthought Table?

    Yes in theory the size of the post would be a factor. Both table tops were close to being the same width/size. But there is some room to play with, the leg could have a bigger sweep or curve to meet up with the table top bevel. This is as good as an alternative as changing the size of the hexagonal post. 

    As for how I came up with the original size for the hexagonal post,  that was purely just to make the glue surfaces of the hexagon to be around the same width I wanted the legs to be, which was a little bigger than an inch. If you make the hexagonal post bigger than you either have wider legs or a wierd leg post interface. 

    If I went with a bigger top I think I'd keep the size of the post the same and alter the sweep of the legs, I think that would be the nicest looking solution.

    • Like 2
  7. 21 hours ago, Chestnut said:

    A sawzall is the one tool i don't have. For some reason i just never ran into the need to buy one.

    Fished with a guy that used his sawzall to clean fish. Granted these where fish that are notoriously hard to clean, large black drum. It worked well going thru their thick scales, but it was alittle messy in the end.

  8. 10 hours ago, Mark J said:

    I'm continually amazed at how you (and others) can just whip something like this up.  A long weekend project!  It would take me a long weekend just to think the thing up, let alone do drawings.

    Well you are right, the idea took awhile to figure out. When I realized I needed a smaller table in the other thread I started playing around with some ideas. I was struggling with how to do the leg structure and attach it to the top. Thinking to use the hexagonal post started me toward this design, and it wasn't until I realized since the top was going to be thicker that I could use a decent sized dowel to hold the top to the leg column that I figured this design out. And the first table took a little longer to build. But once that was taken care of, this second table really was a long weekend project. 

    8 hours ago, Coop said:

    Bmac, have you ever been to any professional Woodworking schools? 

    No schools, but I will say that doing some of Marc's projects with his instruction are like schools. I've also done other projects with plans and video instruction. Picking projects that get you out of your comfort zone is also helpful. The Sculptured Lecterns project was really a project I picked because it was a challenge and there were certain techniques I wanted to tackle. In the end I gave those lecterns away but retained the lessons from the making of them. To me that was the real purpose of that project.

    My profession as a dentist helps too, I work in a 3-D world making and building things all day long. I am also a voracious reader of woodworking books. 

    • Like 2
  9. 2 hours ago, Chet said:

    It's kind of hard t tell but I am guessing the "feet" end of the legs are under the edge or drip line of the table top.

    Exactly, the legs are at the drip line of the table, perfect way to put it.

    4 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

    @Bmac, I like the curved legs you chose, and the structure works well. You didn't mention using a pedestal, though. Just wondering if you considered that option, and if so, what factored against it?

    So the way Chet put it is what I was shooting for, gives the table a lot of stability. It's a coffee table so you don't want it to be tippy.

    • Like 1