Bmac

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Posts posted by Bmac

  1. Very interesting design, but it does look surprisingly simple. I think you can easily figure this out without plans. I wouldn't worry too much about stool hieght, height will be determined by counter height. Typical counter height of 35-37" calls for stool height around 24-26", bar height of 40-42" calls for stool height 29-31".

    Grain orientation should be carefully considered for the legs, but if you have good grain orientation I think you will be fine. I would consider adding strechers, esp if you are going with the higher stool height. I don't think it will detract from the design too much and it could be your take on the design.

    Couple things I see about the design which you have probably already figured out are;

    Leg stretcher construction is glued and held togther with dowels or dominos. Making the top of that leg stretcher piece flat could be done on the table saw once you determine your angle.You'll need to figure out the splay angle from front to back, but I see no splay of the legs out laterally. That look is accomplished with sculpting. 

    Key to this is to make your legs square and don't reduce until you has any lower stretcher joint areas figured out. You also will likely need to keep legs square on 2 surfaces to cut a nice flat top too the leg/stretcher piece (fence side and table side). There are ways possibly where you could leave part of the leg square, the part that sits against your sled and table. Bulk of shaping of legs should be done on bandsaw. 

    Those legs get pretty delicate, at most 1" diameter at bottom, but that should be fine. 

    Not sure if any of this is real helpful, but those are a few of my observations.

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  2. 36 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

    This is going to be exciting. I think i like the Maloof chair you made better. That is not to say that i dislike this chair. I'd be happy with both!

    I agree on both counts, that Maloof lounge chair is a better looking chair, but I don't dislike this chair. 

     

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  3. So sorry to hear that. I agree with you Shane, losing stuff is something I could overcome because insurance replaces stuff. Insurance doesn't replace what you put into you pieces, nothing can replace that. My condolences and wish you the best in rebuilding. 

  4. @wtnhighlander, I have no idea if that would work or not, interesting thought. If it really bothered me I think the thing to do would have been to sand out before adding extra epoxy. 

    If you look at it with a fresh coat of epoxy you can see it's less obvious, in fact I think some of the filler I used at the deck to combing juncture looks worse.  

    IMG_2749.jpg.4c3d2cf55c81e0bacdbdc30ba7ba0bb9.jpg

    • Like 1
  5. 4 hours ago, Chestnut said:

    Did the glass get trimmed after the first picture above? The reason I ask is because it looks like there are some folds in the fiberglass sheet along the edges. If the glass does get some folds how does that look after everything is covered with epoxy? My final question is how heavy is the fiberglass? It seems like it should be kind heavy but i have a feeling that it is deceptively light.

    Also i can't help but notice that this doesn't look like your shop. Does it make the project more difficult not working in your shop or because it was a kit it doesn't matter much?

    So yes, it's not my shop, it's my garage, and it's working well without my main tools as much of the work is easily handled with a handsaw, rasps and block plane. I also have a small festool vac and sanders I moved into the garage. It makes it easier in the garage as my shop isn't tied up, I have more room,  and I'm in a less of a dusty place.

    I did not trim the glass after the first pic, I wanted to wrap it down to the hull. You are right about the folds of the draped glass over the sides, those were easily flattened and smoothed once it was wet and you can see in the bottom pic were the glass ends after wetting, basically where the previously sanded surface starts. There were definitely a few rough edges and excess glass fabric still left right at that edge, but that will be easily cleaned up and feathered into the hull. The main glassing above the edge doesn't have any folds but I can see in the second pic it may look like that, it's really just the edge i need to work.I will have some work/sanding to do in the area where the glass ends to get it smooth but it should be fine after the weave is filled with extra coats of epoxy. Basically I'll sand it first before the fill coats to get rid of the excess glass and then final sand after the fill coats. If you are left with a fold in the fabric after wetting, you can still smooth it and make it smooth with sanding, but if you sand through the glassing and it is a critical place you can add a patch of glass to that spot. Also, remember the hull already was glassed so this area where it wraps down to the hull has 2 layers of glass.

    The weight of the glassing fabric is a little heavier that regular cloth but is pretty easy to shape once wet.

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  6. 15 hours ago, Mark J said:

    I have heard that not everything that is "permanent" is actually so.  I don't know what the truth is, but the wood art collector/maker crowd get their shorts knotted up about this.  That's why I bought "archival ink" pens to mark my pieces --just in case I become famous one day and it matters.  Since these signatures are inside the cabinet and not exposed to light there may not be an issue, but just thought I'd share the thought.  

    Not at all thorough, but here's a couple of web pages:  

    https://sciencing.com/contained-permanent-marker-5070622.html

    https://blog.penvibe.com/sharpies-fade/

    Interesting, I've noticed sharpies do not hold up and have been burning my signatures lately. What "archival pen" are you using.

  7. 1 hour ago, Mark J said:

    The black supports are going to be returned to the bolts after all is cured.  But it looks like the epoxy is kinda mounded up and might prevent the support from seating. Is that an illusion? 

    No, it is not an illusion, they is a slight mound around the bolt. The mound is some filled epoxy to give some holding strength to the bolt. It may slightly affect the seating, but more than likely not as there is some relief on the underside of the foot support. 

    The foot supports won't be placed until I'm done construction, tape on threads of bolts protects any wayward epoxy from creating a problem as the deck is epoxied on next.

  8. 1 hour ago, Chestnut said:

    My finger is hovering over a cove and bead bit to cut planking, as well as the plans for the canoe I want to build....

    I was in no way stating that you were working slowly. I meant that i haven't even seen the finished product yet and It's already giving me the itch to make a canoe. In fact your pace is astounding.

    OK, got it, I see what your saying, but I feel like I'm dragging, really wanted to get all this done over the past weekend.

    Curious, what canoe plans are you looking into?

  9. 1 hour ago, sjeff70 said:

    Bmac, is that all from your property?

    First, thank you for mentioning the canned gas. I wasn't aware this was a thing and I'm going to try it immediately.  HUGE time saver if it works!   

    Your thinking was my thinking as well: quarter a 16" (diameter) log in the field with a chainsaw mill, bring it to the shop to joint an edge, and mill it on the bandsaw.  Bandsaw abuse

     

     

    Some from my property, other logs from our family farm, and still others that I got leads on and milled. A lot of my patients know I do this and I've gotten quite a few logs from them also.

    The canned gas has no ethanol and is stable. I still try and run the saws a few times throughout the year, just start them and run for a minute or two. For milling I usually mix my fuel at 32/1 gas to oil, I can get 40/1 in the can.

    Watch running wet logs on your bandsaw, I've had some problems with that. The dust collection has trouble with the wet heavy sawdust.

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