• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Bmac

  1. Glued up the first chair yesterday. Chose epoxy for it's working time and the fact I was working alone and it was a tricky glue up. Considered hide glue but still thought that might be tough timing wise. The glue up went faster than I expected, the dominos slipped in real easy with epoxy. Wanted to shape this first chair to see how I could make it look. I can do the second char differently since they are not going to live together. Really wasn't sure how the shaping would turn out. Started with the top of the back rest. From the dry run you can see it's pointy in the back; I took the high spots on the backrest down to the chair side and then drew some guide lines as to where I wanted to reduce; I'm looking for a rounding and beveling shape toward the inside of the chair. The plan calls for an outside sharp bevel. that seemed backward to me. So here's where I'm headed with my inside reduction; You can see it slopes in toward the seat; I'm liking that and further refinement is ahead. I then went to the bottom of the back rest. Here there is some excess material. I'm going to try and reduce the excess and make a curved lower line on the back rest; And I really like this, but it's only visible from the back of the chair; Roughed out I took another pic, any thoughts? Thanks for looking.
  2. Coop, I agree, the softer look is appealing to me too. I got more done, and the going has been slower than I expected. This construction technique is somewhat new to me and some of the domino placements are challenging. Also since I've changed the shape, I've had to adapt some of the steps which has turned out ok but has resulted in me scratching my head as to how to get a few steps done. I don't mind this part of the build though because it is breaking new ground for me and opening me up to new solutions I can utilize later. So here's were I'm at; I spend the first hr in the shop with the router, did not enjoy it. I pattern routed the seat frame, the cushion boards, and routed the rabbit for the cushion in the seat frame; After routing I rounded the edges of the seat frame with a rasp, mainly because I was just done with the router. I also took an hour to clean up the shop after the routing. Next is fitting the seat frame to the chair. To do this you clamp the chair together with the back rest in place. Than mark were you want the seat, Jory has some estimates. I then clamped two 1" strips on that line and Jory uses a neat technique to make a template to get your cut lines for the seat frame. He takes 2 pieces of 1/4" ply, puts them on the line for the seat and in the correct position one the chair frame and where the plywood overlaps he secures them. I used tape but he used an air nailer. So here's the template in place; I then took that and laid it over the seat frame to mark my cut lines. I used a circular saw for this cut, I think I should get a track saw, would have been easier; After the cut I put the frame in place and found out my slenderizing and shaping of the back leg caused a slight problem; So I was able to reposition the seat frame a little more forward, but it will be a problem with the dominos. Jory puts 2 in the back leg and 1 in the front. I will put 1 in the back, because I'm concerned with the width. I will increase the size of the domino though from 8mm to 10mm. Here's the chair clamped up, sat in this carefully and it felt great; While clamped I took the 1" strips out and marked the underside of the seat frame for domino placement, then unclamped; Here's the domino setup for domino slot; Turned out fine, just took a steady hand, Jory uses a template for this as a guide, my design change made that more difficult so I freehanded it;; Next I needed to find out where that position sits with the seat frame. Put the seat frame in place and marked the center of the domino on the frame; This worked, as I eyeballed the mortise into the seat frame. Came out very much dead on, even though I didn't need to be dead on, just needed to be close. What I really needed to be was consistent. Next it was a dry run; Took a seat for a few minutes relieved I worked my way through those last few steps. Then I marked some areas I need to shape; Took things apart and grabbed the rasp; One interesting problem was my workbench was not quite wide enough to sit the chair on. So I made it bigger with my vise and a 1" strip; Next is dry run with the second chair, sand all the parts and glueup. Moving toward the end. Thanks for looking.
  3. Starting to pick up some speed on this project. Glued up the seat frames and cleaned up some templates. Here are the seat templates, you see the frame and the template for the 1/2" plywood that will turn into the cushion. There is about an 1/8th" gap all the way around the seat cushion template. In theory that space will be taken up by the leather covering. The cushion will simply fit in via friction; The seat frame glued up, culls were cut out in one area to achieve a better clamping direction of pressure. The excess on the inside of the frame will receive a rabbet up to the pattern line and the remaining lip will support the cushion. Here's a close up of the back joint in the seat frame. Two stacked 6mm dominos are the support for this joint. Both angles were cut at 42 degrees to match the same 42 degree angle the side and backrest were cut at. Pleased with the joint; The front joint makes up for the combined 42 degree cuts in the back. The side is cut at 6 degrees to match a square front rail, stacked 6mm dominos here also; Here's what's on tap next; Cut off excess on the outside of the seat frame via the band saw. Pattern route the outside of the seat. Rabbet the inside of the seat. Fit the seat frame to the sides of the chair and attach using 8mm dominos. Cut out and fit the plywood cushion base and upholster the seat. Glue up chair. Continue to shape, sand and personalize the look of the chair. Thanks for looking
  4. All the chairs I've done have templates and they are useful in many ways. I do think they become more valuable if you are cutting curved pieces. If all cuts are straight 90 degree angles than something like a storystick will work. I use my templates for marking out joint location, marking lines for bandsaw cuts, and for pattern routing. If I'm locationing a joint with a template I'm still doing the details with a square, marking tool, and etc. Templates that I don't use for pattern routing are usually 1/4" plywood. There are some patterns I need to bend and conform to an irregular surface so having a template that can flex is really important. Templates I use for pattern routing are 1/2" plywood and I use doublesided tape to hold it to the piece being routed. MDF would do well here also but I would be concerned the doublesided tape would tear up the pattern. I have small pieces, like handles and knobs, that I've developed templates for. Heavy poster board will usually handle these smaller patterns. Storage has become more of an issue for me as I'm running out of wall space to hang my chair patterns. I have a jar of knobs roughed out and just keep the patterns in those jars. Finally, doing the Hank chair by Jory Brigham is interesting as he uses patterns for a lot, like making sleds and setting up cuts.
  5. And his website is worth the time to read!
  6. Got some work in on this project yesterday before the heat became too much. I initially wanted to get the seat frames glued up. But after reviewing the project on Marc's site I realized there were a few things to get done with on the chair sides. I also was very anxious to do some shaping of the sides and see what the chair would look like with my modifications. So I turned on some Simon and Garfunkel to get into the Mid-Modern groove and hoped I could find my inner Maloof. First order of business was cutting the legs to length. The project, if followed, gives you a seat height of about 17.5". To me that is a dining room chair height, so I dropped it down 1/2". To get the measurements of the front leg you measure from the leg/side joint; For the back leg you measure from the very back end of the side piece. But my alterations changed the shape so the measurement would not be accurate anymore! Fortunately I had the foresight to make a second template at the regular dimensions. That came to the rescue; This shows the difference from the original at the point I need to measure the back leg length; That distance was 1"; So now I just added an inch to the leg measurement; Use a straight edge to draw your cut lines and off to the bandsaw; Then I used that side to mark and cut the other 3 sides; The plan calls for tapering the outside of the legs down to 1.25" in the front and 1" in the rear. The taper starts from where the leg joins the side. Jory used a portable planer and belt sander to get this taper. I was able to cut most of the waste off on the bandsaw, then used the RAS. Here's the cut line on the front leg; And back leg; After that Jory rounds over the edges of the side pieces with a .25" roundover bit. Well my adversion to routers (only use when necessary because of the mess) meant I opted to use rasps. This allowed me to personalize the roundovers. First I wanted a more delicate foot, Jory's was too boxy for me. I made some quick patterns and drew them on the bottom of the feet; Next it was the rasp and sander with an interface pad that gave me a nice shape to the feet; My roundover was more severe at the bottom of the leg and gradually was reduced as you went up the leg. Then I did some heavy roundovers on the outer side of leg/side interface. These I really like; So this gives me a softer look and I'm liking that. Here's a few picks of the back and sides together to see how the new look is shaping up; I like it so far. Finally, I have all the pieces for the seat frame cut to dimension and all the correct angles cut. Just need to domino and glue at this point. I'm finally moving forward with this project.
  7. The sides are around 6/4-7/4, seat frame will be around 5/4 and the back rest starts as a 12/4 board but is shaped to around a 6/4 thickness.
  8. Yes, it is a different kind of build. Using the dominos makes the joinery easy, but I think it takes some of the fun out of it. Nevertheless, this style lends itself to many different designs. Looking at Jory's website, if I had to pick something he made that I would really want to make, it probably would be one of his couches. They have a really nice look to them and you could probably figure it out on your own after doing this chair. Looks better to me than this chair.
  9. Ok, getting back to the Hank after a detour with a surfboard. This post is picture heavy, covering the glue up of the chair sides, pattern routing of sides, 42 degree cuts for the backrest joint, fitting sides to back, cutting out contour of back and putting scallop in backrest. Dominos join the sides, culls cut out of the pieces to help with the clamping of awkward pieces, titebond 3 used; Here's what the weird shaped sides look like after glueup. Next I drew the outline of the pattern on the sides and cut the chair sides close to the line on the bandsaw and routed the pieces using the template. Cleaned up the template then routed; Next it's cutting the 42 degree joint for the backrest. It's a hairy operation putting the front leg against the aux fence on the table saw; To cut the opposite side you need to reposition the aux fence forward and start the cut between the back leg and the backrest, hard to explain so I'll let the picture do the explaining, here's the setup; Final cut joint surfaces, two sides put together to confirm correct angle and symmetry; Sides ready for dominos; Backrests were also cut at a 42 degree cut, much more simple operation and just used the miter gauge on the table saw. Here's one joint dry fit; Next it was back to the bandsaw to cut out the backrest profile; Outline for a scalloped/dished out area at the top of the backrest; Completed this operation using the Festool RAS 115, my favorite gross shaping tool. These two pics are after shaping one of the backrests. There was absolutely no cleanup of dust needed, the vac picked up almost all of it. This is not doctored, literally finished shaping and then took pic. This is why I love this tool, rapid stock removal and minimal dust; There will be dust if you are shaping smaller pieces, but with a large flat area like this dust is negligible. Next job is to glue up the seat frame, I already have those pieces roughed out. Thanks for looking.
  10. That fabric is the windscreen fabric you see on fences, esp baseball outfield fences. It allows air to move through it. So I use that to shade the piles from the direct sun but still allowing air flow. I don't need to put it all the way around, I typically just put it on the southern facing side of the pile. Direct sun will typically cause checking and uneven drying. Boy I wish I knew how many board feet I have, but I don't think my guess would be accurate at all. I've never been someone who has purchased lumber, when I started woodworking I did it with my Grandfather and he milled all his wood from his farm. So I've milled basically almost all the wood I've worked with and have never had a good feel for board feet. I think when you buy it you understand board feet and what certain amounts of it look like. Also this wood has a lot of defects, board feet isn't as accurate of a measurement. Usable board feet and total board feet do vary significantly with rough milled lumber. Chainsaw milling is something I got into about 5 years ago, my Grandfather had passed and I didn't have the equip to move logs but I had access to the farm. Get the chainsaw first, you said you had access to logs, milling will save you more money than the planer. Well if that means if I place an order with you I'll have more? Still waiting on those Red Gum pics.
  11. I think you and I are thinking the same!
  12. This is not my business, it's my hobby. I'm in my early 50's and do all this work myself. I really look at it as a form of exercise and satisfying my woodworking addiction. I have no desire to do this as a business, but I hope to continue to build for family and friends (3 kids that are between 18-23). My real addiction is probably not knowing when to say enough is enough. So my hoarding is basically the following; self-induced hard labor that keeps me out of trouble, causing me to sweat profusely in the hot/humid August weather, and feeding the woodworking bug. In the end it's probably better than a gym membership!
  13. Looks good, I think you'll need more firewood than that for a MN winter. Now that you built that you'll need to get to work to fill it up.
  14. Well I'm glad to see I'm not the only one with issues
  15. Yes, I did mention that, a good solution and I think it's a natural match, at least to my eye. Of course, depends on other color schemes in the room. Cliff, sounds like you are concerned about it being too dark so dark green, even though looks good it may not be what you are after.
  16. Spent the morning today reorganizing my drying lumber stock. Taking assessment of it I've come to realize I have a problem. I hear the first step in confronting one's addiction you need to first realize you have a problem. I guess there are worse problems to have, and I realize the wood should not go bad as long as I store it correctly, but still it's becoming an issue. Managing all this wood takes time and effort. Here's an few pictures so you can see how bad the addiction has become; My "drying shed" (now a storage shed) is now almost full of lumber that is 2 plus years old stock. From the left I have 2 stacks of hickory (some pecan on the bottom), then a stack of red oak, cherry, white oak, poplar and more cherry. I'm in the process of filling this up from other piles. Some of the cherry stock is pretty marginal (second small pile from the right) as I harvested some marginal logs a few years back, but I will salvage some wood from those boards. All this was milled via chainsaw; Here's a small pile I've been picking at that needs to be moved into the "drying shed", 1 cherry log and 1 walnut, milled again with a chainsaw; This pile is all norway maple, milled again the hard way; And my new location for drying piles, 3 piles, the first in the foreground all walnut, the second walnut, white oak and some cherry, and the last all white oak. The first pile was milled via chainsaw, the second is a mix of chainsaw milled and bandsaw milled, and the last is all bandsaw milled, this wood needs another year of drying; I've been moving stock that is soon to be used, approx 3 years drying time, into my garage. Here's a mix of chainsaw milled wood; Finally, I move stock into my shop, where I run a dehumidifier and have some climate control. This wood is rotated and I try to let it sit here at least a few months, getting it down to about 9%. That's the best I can do without a kiln but it works fine for me at that moisture content. If I bought kiln dried wood and stored it here it would go up to 8-9% anyway, unless I had a completely climate controlled shop. This wood is a mix of chainsaw milled and about 150 bf of figured stock I purchased from @Spanky, On another wall I have paulownia and tucked away in the attic space above this I have some norway maple, white pine, yellow pine and 4/4 cherry. The cherry stock up in the attic is about 300 bf and is 15 plus years old that I pick away at when I need 4/4 stock. Most of my stock is 8/4-9/4; So I'm in the process of working through this addiction and any advice will help. But I really don't know if there is a cure as I've got 5 walnut logs sitting on my property now that I will mill up with the chainsaw this winter. I'm beginning to think I'm a lost soul.
  17. Cabinetry and doors in the bottom half or all open bookshelves?
  18. I'm not sure where you are located but you have a number of options, depending on where you are. Besides the ones mentioned (cypress, cedar), there may be local hardwood option you could procure for a decent price. Best domestic hardwoods for rot/decay resistance are Black Locust, followed by Osage Orange and White Oak. Don't discount Sassafras, Walnut or Cherry, all of these are resistant, but not quite as much as the first three. Rot/decay resistance comes with a big caveat that you understand we are talking about the heartwood, NOT sapwood. All the above species will have their sapwood rot quickly, but it's the heartwood that is the resistant part of the tree. Was interesting what @wtnhighlander said about poplar sapwood, but that is the exception not the rule. Finally, you don't need to buy kiln dried wood, air dried is best since it may be found for a better price and it's going to be outside in the air anyway and will end up where air dried wood sits moisture wise, 12-15%. You could probable get a good price on some of these woods from @Spanky, great to work with and he can ship it to you if you are willing to pay the freight. Of course you might have some local options that would work better.
  19. It's my understanding most frame and panel bookcases use a system like you used in your picture for the shelves, holes with adjustable shelf supports. I was thinking along those lines for the shelves, not dados or sliding dovetails for frame and panel sides. I was talking about dados with solid panel sides, I wasn't clear in my post. But a sliding dovetail is nice for connecting the top of the case to a frame and panel side since the top stile of the side panel has a grain direction opposite the top. Then just gluing the very front part of the dovetail and let the rest of the dovetail float, thus allowing for wood movement. . This was what I was thinking of with frame and panel sides, sliding dovetails, and wood movement. Was this bookcase one piece or is it modular?
  20. Wood movement can be controlled if grain direction is harmonious between the sides, the shelves, and the top. This harmony is developed by using solid wood panels, not frame and panel construction. Frame and panel sides will need sliding dovetails as Nut mentioned. If doing solid panel construction stop dados and a solid back are a good choice also. This is not a bookcase but this kind of design, legs with a solid wood panel would also not be affected by wood movement as long as the grain of the shelves match the grain direction of the sides. This design also allows you to put dovetails in the legs for the top support rails for added stability and to attach the top. You can also put dovetails in the bottom rails of course. Plywood would be ideal for the back of the case if you are not opting for an open design. Solid plywood in the back of the case gives a lot of strength to the case. Options for the back could be hardwood ply or something you can paint. I sort of like a painted back of a bookcase, meaning you see some color "behind" the books. So when I say paint I'm talking about painting the part of the back that faces out, not the part that faces the wall. I'm partial to a deep forest green with walnut. You can also get some beaded plywood to add some texture to the back panel. I'm starting to get in the weeds, so before I go further I'd love to see what design you are considering.
  21. Well I hear it's hard to dry, sounds like you had some trouble. Lets see some pics.
  22. Also look to upgrade the fence, there are fence systems out there you could use on your craftsman. A quick search gave me this link that might be helpful; In my opinion a quality bandsaw is a must have. I find the heart of my shop is the workbench.
  23. Need some pics of that wood after it's dry, you might pry some $ from me!
  24. The plan called for 2 layers on top and one on the bottom. But that was referencing a foam surf board build, so I'm very comfortable with one layer. The side rails effectively have 2 layers as I wrapped each layer around the side rails to the other side.
  25. Yes, it is amazing how the wood figure just pops through the fiberglass. Once it's saturated with epoxy it almost becomes invisible.