Bmac

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Everything posted by Bmac

  1. Got some more done on the surfboard, between some short out of town trips and work. Here's where I'm at now; Board is sanded to 220, rails shaped as good as I could shape them; Next it was moving on to the glassing of the board. I'm putting a 6 oz layer of fiberglass on the top and bottom for strength. Opted to do one layer on the top, was planning 2, but for further research says I should be able to get away with one layer since this is a wooden board. Before I started glassing I needed to build glassing and sealcoating stands. Real simple and it's about 40" high; Had to move into my garage for this step and placed paper on the floor for the mess I will create. First step is to lay the fiberglass sheet out and trim to size; Next I mixed the epoxy and poured it down the middle of the board; Then using a rubber squeegee/spreader, I worked the epoxy into the fiberglass cloth and spread it out as evenly as possible. Then I sgueegeed the excess cloth over the rails to the under side. Here's what it looked like the next morning; I sanded off the excess cloth on the underside and added another layer to that side. Sanded it again after both sides were coated and now I'm on to the fin. I glassed this on, first using quick setting epoxy for initial placement then using fiberglass cloth and epoxy for the glassing, The sheets of fiberglass cover the fin and extend down on to the board about 2-3"; I'll trim that up and sand it once it sets, then on to the vent and leash plugs, followed by the final epoxy sealcoat and final sanding. I can see the end in sight! Thanks for looking.
  2. Can't wait til the final pics!
  3. Yes, it's listed as such, but it was also introduced to the America's in the 1840s, 180 years ago. Can't say it's caused a lot of destruction over the past few centuries. Also, depends on the species of this tree you plant, there are some that are not invasive. It is a fact that the State of Conn. has banned planting this tree, not sure how many localities have such rules, but I'm sure they exist. No such regs affect me and I'm not terribly worried.
  4. Well he's not married, I think a lot of guys would be rich with no wife or kids!
  5. The best woods to use are the lightest you can get, but you are right in saying you can practically use any wood if you don't care about the weight. The emerging wood used today is Paulownia. It's light but very strong for it's weight. It's decay resistant and doesn't absorb water, esp saltwater like Balsa. Balsa, along with it's tendency to absorb water, is not nearly as strong as Paulownia. Cedar, Redwood, and even Pine are okay choices for a board, but my research clearly shows Paulownia has the best strength to weight ratios and is the way to go. I harvested my Paulownia from my property. The trees were planted by me in 2000, right after we finished the house and moved in. I planted 10" seedlings and it is one of the fastest growing hardwood. I never planned to use these trees for boards, but I had a softspot for this tree. My grandparents had this tree next to their farmhouse, and growing up I loved the smell of the flower this tree produces in the spring. My grandfather eventually had to take the tree down and it was then I got a chance to work a little with some of the wood. I never forgot that and had always planned to raise some of these trees on our 10 acre property, just turned out that they were the perfect tree for surfboards. For those intrigued by this wood and it's evolution into these specific uses, look at these links; https://www.tomwegenersurfboards.com/history/hollow-wood-surfboards https://flamasurf.com/content/8-paulownia-wood http://clearwoodpaddleboards.com/why-build-with-paulownia-wood/ https://diysurfboardkits.com.au/benefits-of-paulownia/
  6. Spent a fair amount of time pushing through this project, but I will run out of time to get it finished by Fri. Still, here's my progress. Began shaping the rails. When you shape your rails you can chose a harder or softer rail. Basically a soft rail has an even curve from the top of the board to the bottom. A harder curve has more weight and a slight edge on the underside, it's curved evenly to this edge. I went with a soft rail. Here you can see the rail at the early stages of shaping, got to this stage with the RAS 115 and some rasps; Alittle more shaping.... And starting to look better.... When you look closely at the next 2 pics you can still see the rail is slightly wavy and not perfectly smooth, this fine tuning will take a while; Here I'm getting ready to attach the tail. The blocks are attached to the tail piece via a long grain glue joint and the blocks fit into the hollow part of the board; Try in goes smoothly; Used a few clamps as cauls and glued on tail; Did the same this for the front piece, same technique and similar result; Had a little time this AM and I couldn't resist, rough shaped the tail; And it's starting to look like a real surf board; A lot of shaping and sanding still left. I also need to make a glassing stand. I plan to do that with 5 gallon buckets, some 2x4s, plywood scrap, rocks and rags. If that doesn't make sense then wait for my next series of photos. I'll likely be away from this project until next week. Thanks for looking.
  7. Yes a lot like a torsion box. And it is weird, quite a bit a free form shaping and designing. Plans don't call to leak test. I think diligence with the glue up, glassing and sealcoating is supposed to do the trick as far as leaks go. The early wood surfboards leaked, they planned for that and had a drain hole in the base, they would open up the drain and stand them up and drain them after surfing for the day.
  8. I got the reference plans from this site; http://www.woodsurfboardplans.com/index.html Here is a link to an e-book I'm using, same author as the plans on the link above but on a different site; http://woodsurfboardsupply.com/TheBooks.html What I like about these plans is they walk you through the whole process of fabricating your own frame (spar) to the final product. The decks are glued on and I started with the top deck and glued the middle board first. Then I added boards to the sides of that board and worked out to the edge of the board. After the top deck was glued on I attached the bottom deck, starting in the middle again and working my way out. I wish I took a few more photos. So looking at the pic below you see the attached top deck (facedown on bench) and I'm about to attach the lower deck. If you look at the frame you might be able to tell I glued on 3/8" strips to the plywood frame. These strips allowed me to get an edge the clamp could use for clamping pressure; Heres another photo with out the top deck, you can clearly see the strips attached to the plywood frame; Does this explanation help?
  9. Got a few things down on this last night and early this AM before work. I'm pushing to get this finished up by tomorrow night, when we head to the beach for the weekend. If I don't get it done by then I won't have a chance to get it down there for 3 weeks. I added all the side pieces to build up enough bulk for shaping the side rails; Used a circular saw to cut off the ends, and squared them up for addition of the front and back to the board; The tail end; The top or front of the board; Sized a few blocks and glued one of them to my tail piece, still need to attach the second block and glue piece on, but this is how I'll attach the tail; Once I glue on the tail and front piece I need to shape the rails and sand the board. This photo gives you an idea of how I plan to shape the rails, you can see how toward the end the rail is rounded over and blended to the top, the big chuncky strip of wood at the bottom of the photo will be mostly ground away and blended in with the rest of the rail. I have a lot of shaping to do, this is where the Festool RAS 115 with 60 grit will get the job roughed out quickly and my rasps will refine the shape ; Here's a cut off piece so you can really see the construction method. You can notice the side rails are partially hollow and the shaping has begun.
  10. Really nice inlay work on the top of that! I agree with Nut, took a double take on that end grain thinking it was walnut. I'd love to see a side shot.
  11. Yes, there are a lot of videos on glassing. Of course it's one thing to watch it, but another to do it. I can tell it will be messy. With your windsurfing boards, what wood did you use for them?
  12. I'm making the board for my son who loves to surf. It's also a challenge that has been fun to tackle. Who knows I might just try to surf some after this build. What I really want to make for myself is a SUP (stand up paddleboard). I plan on putting that on my list if this goes well, I have plenty of paulownia wood left over for that and a few more boards. This project fits into my interests with a lot of shaping and some artistic license for design. The downside so far has been the seemingly 1 million glueups I've had to do!
  13. I think your basement has kept you plenty busy! I wouldn't call you a slug. I got the resin from a surf board supply store, made esp for boards. Says it's got UV stabilizers, whatever that means. I'm assuming this may be different stuff than regular, but we'll see. I also have an additive I'm supposed to add. All new to me.
  14. I've been playing hooky from my Hank Chair build. First I'm having trouble getting into that build, second I had to order a few router bits, and thirdly I think I have ADD. Well, while I was waiting on my order of router bits to arrive, I pulled down a framework I had made for a surfboard. I had put it together awhile back but the wood I planned to use for the project still needed some drying time. I milled 3 paulownia logs this past year specifically for this project. It dried real fast, but needed a few warm months to fully season. I milled it in Dec, and 2 weeks ago it was down to 12%. I started messing around with the frame and before I knew it I was knee deep into the build. And this build took up my whole shop, since it's a longboard, approx 10 ft. No room for the Hank chair. I thought this would be an interesting build to show, and even though I didn't take a ton of photos, here goes. First, I've been doing a lot of research on building a board. There are a few techniques, all resulting in a hollow board to reduce weight. Wood needs to be light and paulownia fits the bill perfectly. For those who have never worked with this wood it is an absolute pleasure to work with. Tools easily, bends well, and is SUPER light. I was originally planning to do this build with my son, but he is living at the beach this summer where jobs are plentiful. I plan to do the build and we plan to glass and finish the board together down at the beach. To start the build you create what they call the spar, it's basically a skeleton framework that the shell is attached to. I used 3/8" plywood for this. I bought a pattern for the spar. Printed it and glued it to the plywood, cut it out and shaped it. The skeleton was rather flimsy and did not have a lot of surface area to glue the deck boards to, so I supplemented the gluing surfaces with 3/8" paulownia strips. Here's what that looks like; High spots were leveled off and then I started laminating the deck. Starting with the center board, I worked out to the edges. I used Titebond 3, this was the recommended glue. The decking was just under 3/8" thick stock, resawn from the 6/4 boards I milled. The info I researched said 3/8' for balsa and 1/4" for paulownia, I split the difference. Here's the top deck roughed out and glued on; The plan calls for a relatively flat top deck and a curved underside. The curve on the underside is referred to as the rocker, here's the board ready for the underside, gluing up the last of the paulownia supplemental glue strips; Here's the underside completed, walnut accent like the top; From the side profile you can appreciate the curve of the rocker; Now it's a matter of squaring up the sides and start gluing on strips to form the rails. The rails are laminated pieces you glue to the sides that will be rounded off. I started with one solid strip and now I'm adding a decorative strip of walnut: Adding these strips have made me appreciate the number of clamps I own; The plan also calls for a fin, here's what I came up with; Where I'm at now is I need to finish gluing up the rails, shape them, add the front and back pieces that will make up the front and tail of the board. Final shaping and sanding is last. Once at that step you need to glass the board, which is adding fiberglass sheets to the board, epoxy will be used for this step. After glassing you add the fin, that is epoxied and glassed on separately, and then the whole board is sealed with a layer of epoxy. This is completely new territory for me so doing it at the beach seems best as there are a bunch of surf shops around in case my son and I need help. One other necessity with a hollow board it to install a vent. This is so if the board is sitting in the sun it won't heat up internally and start to delaminate or crack. I'm going to use a goretex vent that doubles as a leash attachment. I've glued a backer board on the inside for this and we'll install this after the glassing also. Thanks for looking.
  15. Yup, the price is alittle steep for those rasps, but not many things have changed my woodworking like they have. I don't think I could live without my rasps. They never seem to get put away, as I find myself using them time and again for things, usually for things that I never considered using them for when I bought them. If the price is too steep then put them on your Christmas list. You could get by with a a nice cabinet makers rasp, you can do a lot with that. Besides Auriou (which are the ones I own that I reach for the most), Woodcraft sells Liogier, and Gramercy makes a decent rasp that is somewhat less expensive. Putting a nice hand stitched rasp to wood is a lot like putting a nice plane to wood, the sound the feel and the result is impressive.
  16. Thanks for sharing and looks awesome. Flawless execution!
  17. Welcome also! When I read your post it says you are an amateur when it comes to these chisels, I'm an amateur to these chisels too, I think most on here will be also. I do assume you are not a total amateur to woodworking. I was curious and looked at some of your old threads and saw you are setting up a shop and interested in learning joinery, and Japanese joinery at that. Well a super high quality set of Japanese chisels would fit the bill for that. You seem to be willing to pay for quality. But I do have a few questions. Do you currently have a set of chisels? I think learning to sharpen and care for a less expensive set first would be a wise move. Also, you can always use a set of lesser quality chisels in the shop for cleaning up glue and other odd jobs, jobs you should not use your best chisels for. When you say you are getting them used for a good price, are you getting a significant discount? $2500 is pretty steep for most people's blood. They seem like a very high quality tool and should last a lifetime. You also ask if you need all those sizes, well it can't hurt, but it also depends on what you plan to make. When you inspect them, look for any knicks on the edges of the blade, make sure the handles are secure, and the backs are flat. I read in your link the maker personally sharpens and prepares each set before shipping, so they should be pristine if only used for one project.. So you are setting up a shop, is getting this set of chisels keeping you from buying other shop equipment? I don't want to get into your pocketbook, but it is a consideration. If you are looking to buy top shelf equipment, it will take a lot of cash to outfit a shop. As for me, I think I'd be hard pressed to buy that set, unless I got a really good deal. I do a mixture of power and hand tool work, trying to learn more hand work. Since I've not had experience with a set of chisels like that, I'm not sure if they would be worth it to me. I have 3 sets of chisels, a dovetail set and 2 standard sets (a knock around set and a somewhat nicer set). I do have a Japanese set on my wish list, but not a set like that. Bottomline is I think you can accomplish whatever you want to do with a less expensive set, but I do think it would be cool to own a unique set like that. It's only money,
  18. It's been so hot and humid here, you'll sweat even when you are just pushing buttons.
  19. With out a doubt, the most comfortable wooden chair I’ve ever sat in. That is not an exaggeration. I think the carved/sculptured seat, the backrest angle, and the shape of the back spindles make the chair so comfortable. Maloof got this chair right.
  20. When doing multiples, cutting the pieces, the dados, routing the joints, fitting the joints, and doing the glue ups, you save a good amt if time. For the shaping I save some time too since I get into the groove and have the shape I’m shooting for in my mind. Like shaping the arms, it goes much quicker when doing more than one. But you are correct, doing multiples, you do not really save time when it comes to the sanding
  21. Bmac

    Wood?

    Curious, how much do you charge per bf for sassafras? I've got some around here but the trees are never big enough to do much with. I always thought that would be a good wood to make raised beds from.
  22. Thanks for all the kind words, I've learned a lot after doing so many sculptured pieces, my first attempt was a far cry from where I am now. I'll try to get some photos of that chair also. Taking my time with that one since it's a Christmas present. I will be posting my next rocker build here from start to finish, hopefully sometime in early winter. And yes, my next rocker will be made with Rickey's tiger hard maple. He has already delivered it to me and it's waiting patiently in the shop.
  23. Loving the fact that Coop just posted a great Maloof Low Back Chair. Always happy to see other sculptured pieces on here. Just finished this Walnut Maloof Rocker, as I've stated before, my hands down favorite all time woodworking project. This is my third rocker and my first in walnut. I started this rocker the last week in April, and it was a double build, meaning I am building 2 at the same time. The other rocker is cherry and it's still in the shop waiting for final assembly and final sanding. For those that have done these, you know that final sanding is no small or simple step. My sanding goes to 400 grit before applying finish and I use 0000 steel wool to apply a few coats of the finish. My finish of preference is 3 coats oil/poly mix followed by 2 coats oil/wax mix. Didn't use Osmo for this rocker, but I will likely try that on a rocker in the future. This build went very smoothly, minimal issues. I've have some small details I'm learning to refine with this build, I'll try to point out those small details, but for the most part it looks like most other Maloof rockers. Countless times I've looked up this rocker online and through other venues, and it's easy to make this piece look clunky. I've seen it done with flawless woodworking technique, but it didn't look organic, flowing, or inviting. Hopefully you don't think that when you look at this piece. A perfect pose, the rocker next to a Maloof style table with a Maloof book to inspire you. A few details I like in these rockers. First, I really like the horns, these are time consuming to develop, but worth it in my opinion. Die grinder does a lot of the work, then a lot of scraping and sanding; The crest of the head rest needs to flow into the front of the horn, you can see the line from the front edge of the horn detail blend into the top edge of the head rest. Head rest and horn from the front, again a line that needs to flow; The underside of the headrest to back leg is also an area that takes a lot of work to blend. A rasp and a lot of hand sanding is the only way to get this done. I like the middle of the headrest to project down, I like this look much better than the continuous sweep you see in a lot of the rockers; This side view of the head rest shows the sweep and contours; The arm to back leg joint is pretty straight forward and easy to shape. Key is to make it look fluid and continuous. The interesting part of this joint is on the inside. This is a common feature seen in the original chair that is often duplicated. This gives the look as if the arm was carved from the back leg. The arm to front leg joint takes a lot of work, as you have end grain and long grain you are blending together. I don't like the big paddle shaped arms you often see on most of these rockers. I like a more narrow arm and with it converging more as it approaches the back leg. The shaping of the arm is a lot of work also, but Marc does a great job in his build guiding one through the process. So much is made of the leg to seat joint in this piece. I find that to be pretty straight forward when you use the paired router bits. Shaping these joints are harder than doing the joint. And this by far is the toughest area to shape. Finally, the leg to rocker joints. The joints that give me the biggest pucker factor. Drilling thru the rocker into the back leg, after you have spent weeks on the chair is the absolute most tense moment of this build. The good thing is after you have shaped the whole chair, shaping the legs to the rocker is one of the easiest areas to shape. The detail I add in the front is from Marc's build and I like it, you leave a little extra in front of the leg to converge that excess into a point, sweeping up from the underside and in from the sides. Thanks for looking.
  24. This chair has taken awhile to get into with a busy schedule and trying to finish up the 2 rockers. My walnut rocker is done and I'll post a few photos of that. For the Hank chairs, this has been sort of a "soft" start. I got the pieces cut for the sides of 2 chairs. My second chair was going to be another species but I ended up defaulting back to walnut, as I had some perfect stock for this. Once the 3 pieces that make up the sides were rough cut to size, I moved on to creating clean joint surfaces. To do this we start with our template. I made extra templates and cut one in 3 pieces. The cut line were you cut the template in pieces is the joint line and the angle you cut is not critical, it just needs to be consistent. Here's a picture again of the templates; The 3 smaller pieces were cut roughly along the lines shown on the full size template. These were just cut on the bandsaw and don't need to match the original identically, but the key is the pieces match up. You take those pieces to the table saw and Jory make sleds to do the cutting. Start with a piece of plywood with parallel sides and position your template on the plywood; The cut line needs to line up perfectly with the edge of the sled; Next screw on a straight edge to for a fence; Now you have a sled to cut consistent angles. That works well and is so easy. That sled was made for the arm part of the chair. Next moved on the the legs and I decided to try the incra miter gauge. The angle for the arm was too harsh to use this method; Once positioned perfectly against the blade I locked in the angle on the miter gauge; Instant reproducible cut, like I said we aren't worried about measuring the angle, we just need to match the template. Simple enough and all cuts completed in no time; Next mark your domino placement; So my next step will be to bore my domino holes, dry fit and make some clamping culls to pull the pieces together along the long axis of the joint, then glue up. But I'll need to save that job for another day. The template/sled concept is interesting. The imagination is about the only thing that limits you in your design. Thanks for looking.