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Everything posted by Bmac

  1. Stunning, absolutely stunning!
  2. Bmac


    Spanky brought up an underutilized species that is very resistant to the weather, Sassafras. If you have access to it, it's probably less expensive than some of the other species. Spanky, this is pretty light weight wood when dried, correct? Another great species for outside, but it's heavy, is White Oak.
  3. Coop, I think you should embrace the curves and flowing lines, you look like a natural, great job. Absolutely love the grain in your seat. Looks like you were able to get all that stock from a wide board? Your seat/leg joints look real nice and I do like the outline you developed on the side of the seat. That seat outline is a little more pronounced than the outlines I've done and I might steal that. You did a great job with sculpting your first piece. Having done a few of those chairs, I know that front leg to arm joint is tough. You have very little leg length to play with as you blend and shape the two together. If you look at your second picture, that is the pic that shows it at it's less than ideal angle. If you reduced/slenderized the leg more below that joint you probably could have gotten a little better sculpted profile. But that's being really picky. Bottomline, that's a great job and a chair to be proud of!
  4. The colors in my pieces never stayed that distinct, my walnut got a lot lighter and my cherry a little darker than your piece
  5. I've used cherry and walnut together quite a few times in my early woodworking projects. I liked the look initially. But after a few years the cherry darkens and the walnut lightens, and you can hardly tell they are different species. But you can tell they are different colors slightly, and the look is not nearly as pleasant as it was initially. It doesn't look terrible, but it does look like you mismatched boards in the piece. Have not used them together in many years because of that experience. If the walnut is highly figured and you are using it for drawer fronts then you still will maintain some interesting contrast in the piece, but that will purely be from the grain pattern. Now please excuse me while I go have a lamb and tuna fish sandwich.
  6. I have the 7" 13 grain Modelers rasp. It is hands down my favorite rasp. My second favorite rasp is a Auriou 10" Cabinetmakers 11 grain rasp. A close second is a Liogier Sage Leaf rasp 14 grain. This Sage Leaf is convex on both sides at different radii and I only use this rasp on curves. When doing a sculptured chair these 3 sit on the bench by me the whole shaping process. I will sparingly use a Liogier Rat Tail rasp (round narrow rasp that tapers to a point) at the front leg joint. This is the toughest area to shape in my opinion on the rocker. Ken, if you are looking at getting a Modelers rasp, I went on Highlander's website and it looks like they are out of stock on that model, unless you are left handed. Woodcraft sells the Liogier brand, I've found this to be comparable to the Auriou, and they have Modeler rasps in stock.
  7. No worries on the rasp, what ever you decide. The one I'm showing you is just for rough shaping, it's pretty coarse. If you buy a Auriou Modeler's rasp for more fine work I'm sure you could resell it for a fair price. Heck I might even buy it. Those Modeler rasps are real nice. You'll likely not want to give it up. Good advice by Highlander, I got a cheap on on ebay, a Black and Decker for like $30 and it works fine but I don't use angle grinders any more since I started using the RAS 115. I'd use your beater or buy cheap. The corded Makita is very servicable.
  8. Very nice!! Great job with all the details in that piece.
  9. First off, after this build I found myself drawn to this type of furniture and I'm glad I invested in the tools needed. But if this truly is just a one off then I completely understand. You got a good deal on that disc, you could use that for the whole build and possibly skip the coarse one. As for bits to put in the die grinder there is only one or two I would buy. This one is the best and it isn't listed on Marc's project list. I use it 90% of the time; I use this one just for the front leg joint; I might have a few items I could sell to you. I know I have 2 angle grinders and I never use them. One is a plug in and one is a rechargeable. I think you were looking more for a die grinder, but if you want an angle grinder tell me. If you want the coarse Galahad I could part with that. I have this Auriou Rasp, it's the Albi, a 10" combination rasp that is a coarse 5 grain on one side and a fine/med 9 grain on the other side. Have hardly used this rasp. Just haven't found this rasp to be one I reach for, but it is good quality and I'm sure someone here can put it to better use than me. List for this is about $115, will sell for $70 and you pay shipping, This rasp could do most of the shaping and if you added a Modeler's rasp you would be set.
  10. I know there are tricks dealing with getting more width from a jointer, point taken. I'm actually going to see how the cushion seat is done and will likely go with that. It's more out of my comfort zone and I'm excited to try it.
  11. Very nice and the top looks great. Liquor bottles I hope.
  12. Will do. I was wondering if I should since there has been quite a few rocker builds on here over the years. Next Rocker will likely be this winter or late fall, plan to use the curly maple I got from Spanky! Not sure where I'll put that one though, running out of space in my house. I wonder if Kev has the same problem as me, scraps always being an inch too small in one dimension. When making these sculptured chairs you definitely end up with 8/4 scrap. I think I have a hoarding problem with scraps. I should sell it to pen turners. Yup, trying to make a pointy harsh look into one with some sexy curves. Well sort of sexy, I guess that depends on who you are talking to. Did run into a little bit of a problem I'm sure I can work around. Making the arm wider for the curve meant the stock I needed was slightly over 8" wide. That doesn't work well for my 8" jointer, so I'll be alittle short on the top of the arm by the back rest, but I think I still have enough stock to fall in line with that curve, meaning I was going to round off that corner anyway. If I don't have enough stock I'll just alter that back curve.
  13. Been kept busy by an always fun project, Maloof Rockers, 2 of them. One for my house and one for a Christmas present. Always good to do chair projects in twos, at least in my in my opinion. Since you do special cuts/joints, once you are set up for those it makes things go much faster. I started these the last week in April, but with my HS baseball team making the State playoffs, two kids graduating ( one each from HS and college), and general life they have taken alittle longer. These are my third and fourth Mallof Rockers I've built and I think I have it down to about 1 month. I really should show a build of one of these rockers as I've developed a few shortcuts and time saving techniques. Now that I'm wrapping those up, I'm moving to the Hank chair, or at least getting prep work done. Finished the templates for the 2 sides. Made some changes to the original template, added some width to the arm and drew in my curves. Then I made 2 copies of that before cutting out the curves; Here's the cut out curvy one overlaying my full size template; I'll use the full sized curved template to rough shape the side piece once assembled and then use a pattern router bit to get both identical to the final curved template. But I'm getting ahead of myself. Here's the stock I plan to use. Jory loves to use the cheaper stock with knots, sapwood and other imperfections, I plan to do the same; That wood has been air dried 3 years and has been stickered in the shop for the past 6 months. I run a dehumidifier in my shop and that stock is sitting at 8-9%. Here are my pieces to construct the sides, oversized and jointed on the surfaces that go against the fence of the homemade sleds I need to make; Before I make the sleds I think I'm going to make this a double build so next on tap next I need to get pieces for that second chair roughed out. I'm going to go with a different species for the other chair, thinking maple. Need to pull my stock of maple to see what I have. Cherry is another option for the second chair. I do have some hickory and white oak but that needs some more time to season. What is nice with this build is you can use up scraps since the pieces aren't that large, I've got a ton of 8/4 scraps. Of course with my luck the pieces are always an inch too short or an inch too narrow to use!
  14. Really cool look, I like it, very unique. So if I follow correctly, you cut your 8 degree taper before turning, then you turned, shaped and glued. Didn't see the flat glue surface in the pictures you took of the turned legs but I assume they are there. Very nice and I'm really enjoying the build.
  15. Sounds like a plan, I’ll pm you on the maple to coordinate.
  16. Rickey, have you been cutting any more of that Sweetgum? Wanted to see some pics.
  17. Bmac

    Cordless Chainsaws

    Sounds like two bad days!
  18. That's the great thing about woodworking, you can build a custom piece like for a unique purpose. Perfect for the location you put it at and perfect for the specialized purpose. You could have never bought a piece that could do what you wanted, would fit that corner so well, or looks so nice.
  19. Exactly, when I said the curves should work well with this piece I could have said that they work well within the MCM style. Glad you clarified that for me because I was thinking along those lines.
  20. Yes, the original does have a crystalline look, totally agree. Jory was talking about this piece on the first video of the build series and referred to it's sleek and crisp lines that appeals to him. He also leans heavily toward the Mid-Century Modern style we are starting to really see crop up more and more. I think Jory is more inclined to build this way based on his construction style. He needs straight edges to make his sleds that cut the correct angles for the joints. Now what I've learned from the sculptured furniture I've made is that you often need these straight edges to help make your joints, but by oversizing everything you then can sculpt the piece after it's put together. That's my very simple alteration to this plan. Excited to give it a shot as soon as I finish my current projects.
  21. I agree with most here that the look of this chair is a little harsh, but I see more to this that the harsh angles. My eye has already started to soften it. Here's a few altered sketches I developed from the PDF plan. Here is one that was developed by making the arm rest thicker/wider, giving a better sweep to the arm and a pronounced area where your hand rests. Same outline traced from the above sketch; Here's a sketch staying within the confines of the original plan, meaning I don't need to alter the size of the parts the plan calls for, less of a pronounced sweep in the arm and no pronounced area for hand rest; I think both of these alterations of the sides are going to be simple. I like the first alteration better. Also I think rounding over the leg profile is a simple way to soften the look and shouldn't weaken the chair. As for the rest of the chair, I think the seat won't need to be altered but I'd like to soften the back rest. Perhaps for the back rest try to use thicker stock and develop a more pronounced curve. As I stated earlier I plan to post this build. I really intrigued by this construction approach.
  22. Bmac

    Rough Sawing Lumber

    I could have swore someone just posted on this thread, the time stamp was only 2 hrs old when I responded. Now the post I responded to looks like it was deleted. Maybe I'm seeing things and read the date wrong, but the post I responded too is clearly not here any more!
  23. Bmac

    Rough Sawing Lumber

    If you are looking to mill with the saw I'd recommend at minimum a 90 cc saw. You could get away with a smaller saw, say a 70 cc saw, for occasional use with logs in the 12-18" diameter range. A lot depends on what type of wood and how big.
  24. Well this project was just released and it's right up my alley. First it's a chair, one of my favorite things to build. It's also a little funky looking, a cool style I'd like to delve into. I do think it needs some curves and softening, so I'm going to experiment with it and see if i can develop some curves. Finally it is made with an unique template system that I'm very interested in seeing how it's done. This technique could be used with a lot of projects and it is different approach. This might be a neat technique to have experience with. As with the other Guild projects I've purchased, I think this one is one I'll be referring back to quite often if I like the technique. I can't tell you how many times I've used the other Guild projects I've purchased. The Sculptured Rocker series has been used a ton by me and it introduced me to a type of construction I absolutely love. That series changed my woodworking more than anything I've purchased. The Krenov Cabinet has also been an awesome purchase as it's my go to tutorial for hand cut dovetails. I've done about 3 projects since that one that I referred back to the video series for dovetail tips. That one also introduced me to drawers with a center guide, love them now. So, I hope to get started on this build soon, I'm in the middle of a double Maloof Rocker build (2 individual rockers, not the actual 2 seat rocker), but I'm going to start the templates on this series soon and I'll post as I go along. Are others are as intrigued as I am?
  25. Well I don't think your splits had anything to do with expansion, it's all contraction related. Wood shrinks the most across the grain, when the pith is included it shrinks toward or around the pith. This is what caused the stresses on the pieces and hence the splitting. It's easier to visualize in a circular piece that I showed, but the same principle holds true in square pieces. In the picture I showed you can easily see the pith, it's the darker center made up of the first growth rings. As I stated and Nut stated, cutting the log in quarters or halves down the pith corrects the problem, it allows shrinking with out building up the stresses that cause the splits you experienced. Pith contained in boards reacts a little differently, or rather has different problems. The wood that makes up the pith is the juvenile wood, the young immature wood that used to be the sapling. It's the sapling and a few rings of growth laid down around the center of the tree.This wood is weaker, moves more, and more prone to cracking and warping. I've milled a lot of lumber containing the pith and it is almost always defective and needs to be cut out when prepping boards. But you can still get very usable lumber from boards containing the pith with a little work. When you have a board with a pith running right down the middle you have two nice quartersawn boards on either side of the pith. Finally, because I realize this can be alittle difficult to explain, the problem you had was because the pith was contained inside a relatively thick beam, it looks like you cut the sapwood off of all 4 sides. The stresses built up around the pith from shrinkage causing the split. If you had milled 5/4 or 8/4 or 4/4 or any /4 you wouldn't have had the big split, just issues explained above with the boards containing the pith. Hope this makes sense. The pith concept took me a while to understand and appreciate, but it is a principle that is not only important for guys milling lumber to know, but also for guys buying lumber.