• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Bmac

  1. Mark J said it, the pith is the problem. Not only is the pith very unstable, you often get radial cracking, very similar to what you are showing. As the wood dries it shrinks, as it shrinks the circumference shrinks more than the radius and cracks can form because of the stress this induces. Another way to look at it is the crack decreases the stress of the shrinking circumference, you could say the crack shortens the circumference to deal with the stress. This is why cookies/discs of wood crack. You can avoid alot of these problems with piths if you cut in quarters or halves the log you are milling.
  2. Glad you thought of me. I'd love to try it out. I've heard the same, it isn't the most stable. Tends to warp and twist quite a bit during initial drying. Once dry it moves a fair bit.
  3. I plan to hit the Renwick also when I go in July, thanks for the pics! Now I know what to look forward to. Where all those pieces on the same floor?
  4. Just received a gem, "Thomas Moser, Artistry In Wood", fits this category very well. Five Chapters; 1- Origins; the least interesting to me, but it outlines his background and his humble beginnings. 2- A Covenant with Wood- a very interesting chapter that speaks glowingly, and very interestingly about his favorite wood, Cherry. 3- The Moser Aesthetic- A chapter on design and inspiration, covers his background as a refurbisher of antique furniture and a Shaker enthusiast. He discusses those who influenced him and his love for exposed joinery. This chapter was a very nice read. 4- Craftmanship- A discussion of construction and fabrication. He loves through tenons with wedges and dovetails. 5- Shop Tour- Self explanatory.
  5. Did Rickey kiln dry it or are you air drying? You are stocking up on some nice lumber, but as I always say, you can never have enough.
  6. Here's a topic you may want to include, even though you have titled this style reference. I read a lot of books on wood, the medium we work with. There are a few favorites of mine that I'm constantly referring to. "Understanding Wood" by Bruce Hoadley, pretty much the bible on the subject. "Cut and Dried" by Richard Jones, what I would consider the new bible. Very detailed book. "With the Grain: A Craftsman Guide to Understanding Wood" by Christian Becksvoort, a great addition to any woodworker's library. Details the many North American Hardwoods we work with, their properties, milling and drying, and a section on how to work with solid wood. "Selecting and Milling Wood" by Charles Self, another quality book on the subject and he discusses the structure of wood, North American hardwoods and softwoods along with exotics species. He also hits on felling, milling, and drying. For something else, a topic I've also studied quite a bit is chainsaw milling. there is only one book on this subject. "Chainsaw Lumbermaking" by Will Malloff, he discusses the equipment, the powerhead, the mills, the chains, felling, milling technique, and basically everything about the subject. This book has been worn out by me.
  7. That looks interesting. Going to Dc this summer, think I should visit the Renwick.
  8. Yes, not getting those guys at a cheap rate.
  9. This looks interesting, ordered it. This is outside my knowledge base and it will be interesting to see some of these pieces. Also ordered a few Moser books, interested in reading about him. Just received this book on Wharton Esherick, hopefully will get some feedback out on this when I have a chance to jump in.
  10. Well I prefer the thicker stuff, but I certainly could find a use for that great looking tiger maple!
  11. Coop, that is a wonderful book, and very inspirational. I agree with Birdie, Maloof stuff is more a feeling, but it also is a completely different style than most woodworkers are used to attempting. I've found it's a lot like most of what we do, the more you do it the more natural it becomes, but none of us will match the original.
  12. I looked into this when getting lumber from Spanky. Bottom line, freight didn't work for me. I went with regular shipping, UPS and FedEx will ship up to 150 pds with certain size limits. For the lumber shipping with UPS, the package weighed 130 pds and cost around $145. With you, I'm not sure if UPS or FedEx is an option due to the size of your shipment, but you should check. Your next option, like you said is freight (UPS and FedEx also does freight). There is a significant added cost for residential delivery with freight. Here are a few links I found when looking into the freight options, perhaps they will help;
  13. You can't go wrong with that collection
  14. I have this, didn't realize it when I looked at your link, I have the paperback and it doesn't have the same cover as the hardback. I enjoyed this book, less a how to but more an autobiography with a healthy dose of philosophy about his craft. I'd be interested in what you think. The one I don't own of his is "The Impractical Cabinetmaker".
  15. If you find it I'd be interested in what you think. It is typically available on Amazon, also receives good reviews there.
  16. Those are Rickey's stacks right?
  17. Well you don't like curly maple, so you wouldn't help with that, you'd be helping with the Walnut and curly cherry. Was that $2 walnut kiln dried?
  18. Here's a favorite of mine, not well known but good: "Building Fine Furniture From Solid Wood" by Ken Sadler It is a little hard to find and it's a little dated. The designs are mainly Mid-Century, but I read this book earlier in my woodworking journey and it really teaches sound principles. I've possibly learned more from this book than all the others I've read, but I did not know a great deal when I read this so that very well could be the reason for that. Still, it's not a book for beginners, but rather for someone that wants to move up to the next level. There are a few nice projects (11 projects in total) in this book and he uses subtle curves in his pieces. It was this book that got me to start building chairs. He has a few simple chair designs that were perfect for someone with little or no experience in making chairs. I've ended up with a dining room full of his highback chairs. He uses a lot of bent lamination and gives great instruction on this from the technique to the forms. He goes over shop essentials, selecting hardwoods, solid shop jigs and covers lathe turning very well. A good addition to anyone's woodworking library in my humble opinion.
  19. I am a avid reader of woodworking books. I know reading is old school, but there is such a pleasure in it. I'm not sure exactly where you are headed with this post, but I understand it's a reference for certain styles and designers. So with that understanding I'm assuming you may want some feed back on books listed and new reference material. My apologies if I'm off base, but here's my input. All Krenov books are superb, but "The Fine Art of Cabinet Making" was very influential for me. He not only gives practical advice but he talks of how to excel, be your best. The photos are inspiring and his attention to detail is incredible. He talks a lot about his love affair with wood, the care he takes in selecting it, drying it, and deciding how to use it. He loves thick cants to resaw and book match, he talks of the subtle skill in coaxing the best figure and color out of every board. This is not step by step how to make something, no plans, just inspiration. My copy of this book is about worn out, it has been very influential. Second to Krenov, the books about Sam Maloof have changed my woodworking more than anything. The books I own are "The Furniture of Sam Maloof", and "Sam Maloof, Woodworker". Again, not how to books but books for inspiration. You can find out the how to through other avenues, but you get the inspiration in these books. The Mid Century Modern furniture is interesting to me, and Maloof's work is classic. George Nakashima's "Soul of a Tree" is another nice book. His style is unique and worth the time to look at. I do think the live edge craze dilutes his work, but his love of the wood and the tree that produces it comes through in this book. To me no other book connected me more to the medium woodworkers work with than this book. Mike Pekovich's "The How and Why of Woodworking" is a very good new addition to the list. Very well written and thought out, I'm rereading mine for the second time now. It's not as cerebral as the Krenov or Nakashima I've listed, but well worth the time to read. One area I just can't seem to get excited about, and I own books about them too, are Greene and Greene stuff. But to each his own, I know the style is widely popular and I very well may warm up to it. Nut, was this the stuff you were looking for in this post?
  20. Yes, and I used shorts that were the same thickness/width as my leg's tenons to avoid chopping out 4" through tenons. This worked great and even helped with assembly. The section of the bench between the leg through tenons was glued up and sat perfectly between the leg tenons and on the leg's tenon shoulders. Then I simply glued on the shorts and the outer full length piece to make the top flush with the outer portion of the legs.
  21. Really, I love it! Maybe because I don't have access to it very often. Still, I think chairs made out of it are just look awesome. I've never had enough of it to do a whole piece in tiger maple, and I think you can over do it in a piece with that wood, but man it makes one heck of a Maloof Rocker!
  22. I'll work some overtime for the extra $ to get in on some of that action. I might just have to drive down to Tennessee for those!
  23. Rickey, have you put that tiger hard maple in the kiln yet? Excited to see how that comes out.
  24. I'll jump in, like the design from your first post better, the middle drawer does add to the look. Apologies to your wife. Quick question, with the bowed front, how do you plan to handle the drawer fronts? I saw you mentioned inlays, I like that. You also mentioned the wood might vary in the middle drawer in comparison to the side drawers. Are you going to do bent lamination or are you cutting them from thicker stock? I would assume it would be more predictible to cut from thicker stock. Either way you could get a very interesting look with the matching grain pattern developed from either of those approaches if you decide to use the same wood for all the drawer fronts. Or, with the front drawer fronts, you could bookmatch the pivoting drawers and go with something different like you were planning for the middle drawer front. Bottomline is there are a few ways that you could do some interesting things with those drawer fronts. I'm very interested in how you handle the pivoting drawers, I assume you'll likely use a knife hinge and have them function just like a door. I like the leg design and the heavy underside bevel for the top.