Bmac

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Everything posted by Bmac

  1. So where I left off with this project I was gluing up the "rails", or the sides of the board. If you remember I added 2 strips the length of the board, staggering them and then connected them with a third and larger strip. So now that the glue ups are finally over, it's on to shaping. And believe me i'm glad the glue ups are over! So for shaping I'll use primarily just a few tools, the RAS doing the bulk reduction, rasp refining the shape, and a sander with an interface pad on to smooth; With the RAS I can get the shape pretty close, here's a pic of a small section of rail where the RAS still has some reduction left to do, but you can see how well it's done on either side of the unreduced area, you can also see the 3 distinct strips and how they are staggered, or stepped; Here we are with the RAS work completed and if you look closely the outline is not perfectly smooth. The rasp work will fix that; Now here are some pics after sanding, you will see 3 different results, first in this pic you can barely tell where the 3 strips begin and end; in this pic you can see the strips but the joint looks tight; In this pic I didn't get the joint closed up as well as I would have liked and you can see a very pronounced glue line; Now I'm not happy about that last pic, but the glassing and epoxy will take care of that. In the boards I've done, I've found it's very hard to close down every joint the whole length of the joint when you are curving and bending long strips into place. You just never seem to have enough clamps. Finally here are a few pics of the final shaped board; What's next is, glassing, adding the fins, vents and handle, then a final coat of epoxy. Oh, and then I need to make a paddle, or paddles rather. Thanks for looking.
  2. Just like the Government wants to fill it's strategic oil reserves, I want to stock pile high quality lumber in my strategic reserves.
  3. Yes correct, glass and epoxy when all put together
  4. No worries Chip, I knew you were teasing.
  5. I've had this build on my to do list for a while and I put it off, and now I remember why, because there are so many glueups. I've already been through two 16 oz bottles of TB III. So @Chip Sawdust is right, this does seem to be going slow. But I have made progress so here's the update. Top deck is done so it was on to the bottom deck. This glue up is a little more tricky since the top deck prevents getting good clamping pressure onto the ribs. So some creative clamping did the trick. Center board is the first to be glued; And working my way out from there; Once I got most of the lower deck glued up I wanted to get the nose boards put on. Started with cleaning up the front of the board. Before cleanup; After cleanup; So now that I have a nice surface to glue to I started with adding my boards. In this pic you can see I was able to tie my clamps into the board frame where I had not yet put my decking on. This worked out great and I don't think I could have done this as effectively if all my decking was in place. Also I left the first boards very proud of the deck. I used this lip to glue on successive boards. So then it was a matter of glue up after glueup, alternating 8 boards. Here's the end result with some rough shaping to get the nose boards flush with the deck; Next a little rough shaping of the nose. Really like as I shape and round the front that the light color paulownia peeks out from the cedar; Now on to the sides. First I need to flush up the deck and the frame and make the top deck even with the bottom deck; Now that I have a nice surface to glue too I start adding strips; In this pic you can see I'm adding a second strip to the first strip. After getting two strips added to the top and bottom I'll "connect" the top to the bottom with 1 last strip, then it will be all closed up. And finally, here's how the tail is shaping up; So I have got a lot done but it does feel like slow going. I can get a couple glue ups done, then I need to wait a few hrs before moving on. So in between glue ups I've been working in my yard. Just redid my garden beds. So I have been productive in more ways then one; Thanks for looking.
  6. Yes Coop, say you left the board laying on the beach. The sun heats it up, the air inside heats up and since the board has been glassed and sealed with epoxy there is no where for the air to escape. This air expansion can cause the decking to delaminate off of the support ribs ot for the decking to split or crack. At least that is the theory behind the vent.
  7. Very nicely done. Always enjoy your projects.
  8. Quick update on the SUP. Last post of progress was on Tues, and I haven't moved as fast as I was hoping. Partly because we've had some nice weather and work on my garden/yard/house pulled me out of the shop. But that's ok, I'm still moving forward and the amount of glueups has been tedious. After finishing the top decking I began prep for adding the lower decking and for "closing" up the board. I have a few things that need to be done internally before adding the bottom deck. First is added glue strips to the plywood framework, a real long process. Here are my strips prior to sizing, and in the end I used all these; Gluing up to the plywood framework, glue to the center and to the cross pieces; Next I need to make sure that all the chambers of the board are connected for even air pressure. Some simply holes placed in the center support; And some notches in the cross pieces. These notches allow not only air flow but also can act as drain knotches in case water gets in the board, not that I plan that to happen; And here's the board woth the ribs glued on and all ready for the deck; Couple other things to point out. Blocking for leash cup and air vent. I'll be using an combination device fitted with a goretex membrane. This membrane prevents water for coming in but allows air to escape. The hole in the block will be centered at the bottom of the larger hole I'll drill into the top of the board to insert the leash cup/vent; Next, I prepped the back and front of the board for blocking the will form the nose and tail. Here's the tail; Here's the nose; Finally, got the fin finallized, First cut out; Next mark the midline; Then shaped/feathered both edges down to that line, this is called the foil for the fin; So the next steps will be leveling the supports, alittle work on blocks for the nose, and the adding the bottom deck. Thanks for looking!
  9. Sounds good, have you been playing it safe down there?
  10. Of course you can retire at 32, your $ for your habit may dry up though and you may lose your girl. Now if you can afford to retire at 32, you definitely did something right. Now that you have your mill, you need to get your hands on a paulownia tree.
  11. Yes, I purchased a plan from WoodSurfboardPlans.com. They send you a link to print out the patterns and the instructions. I've made other surf boards from this site, so I've learned a lot through that process. This build is much easier because of those other builds. Here are the pics of the other boards I did; Long Board; Short Fish with deep swallow tail;
  12. Hope this answers your questions, I'm applying clamping pressure down to the frame with the vertical clamps. I was clamping at each rib. This might be excessive and thru my research I've seen guys use heavy bricks and etc to hold the boards down. It will be harder to clamp down the bottom deck because the top deck will prevent me from getting the clamp around the rib. If that doesn't make sense now I hope it will shortly when I start clamping the bottom deck. The horizontal clamps are used to just keep a little sideways pressure on the board to close up the joint. I actually don't need to use the sideways clamping pressure every glue up. The thin cedar piece was easy enough to push it against the adjacent board and the clamp down vertically to hold it in place. I'm really just trying to get a little glue squeeze out one the edge joints. As for the sequence, I started with the middle decking board, centered over the vertical rib, or "stringer". Then alternate gluing the boards to eack side of the center board and so on. So you can see it's tedious, you need a lot of clamps, it makes you shop look like an unorganized mess, and you go through a lot of glue. Did that answer your questions?
  13. I’ll be using pieces with the similar thickness as the decks. You can do a solid rail where you laminate multiple strips, or you can do a “hollow” rail where the strips are “stepped”. I’ll likely do a hollow rail as this won’t be a board used in the surf And a hollow rail makes the board lighter. The glassing adds a lot of strength to the board, something that is hard to appreciate until you actually glass something.
  14. Chugging along. My last post I outlined I needed to level the frame and ribs. Well I started doing that with some selective rasping and then made a sanding board. Simply a piece of poplar with 120 adhesive paper adde to it; That did the trick fairly quickly. Next I started adding the top deck. As I told @Coop in another post, since the SUP is 11' long, I don't have stock that long. So where I need to join two pieces I did a simple butt joint with a reinforcing piece glued to the underside; After multiple tedious glueups I could finally see some progress. Herre's one of my glue ups, looks like a clamp party; While I was waiting for glue to dry, I glued up a panel for my fin; And after what seemed like endless glueups here's the top deck; Still need to clean up the sides, but I'll likely do that after the bottom deck is added; I'll clean up the top and then flip it over and start my bottom deck glueup. Things are going well and so far so good. Thanks for looking!
  15. Coop, I actually do not have stock that long, I do have a few boards almost long enough, about 10'. I reconfigured the position of some of the machines in my shop to clean up and resaw those boards, but in the end I wondered why I bothered, I can make this SUP just as easily with shorter boards and I'll show how I do that. At it's thickest point, the cross members are about 4" thick, and with the top deck and the bottom deck and it will end up being about 4.5" thick. One interesting point I meant to bring up is when surfacing these boards I'm not worring too much about getting my boards flat. They all are pretty flay to begin with, but I'm just running them thru the planer. You may then wonder, well that will be a problem, right? Not really. I think getting a 10' board flat is pretty hard without a super long jointer bed, and secondly since I'm resawing things to 5/16 and bending it onto the frame as I glue it, flatness is not that critical. Also, as I glue things up onto the board, I'm able to pull pieces together and glue in place. The pieces are pretty forgiving because they are so thin. More to follow, I hope to get the top deck finished today. Thanks for looking!
  16. I agree with Paul, that base looks great, really nice job blending it together too. Very cool
  17. I’m not sure about a sail but I would assume it could be. Yes, paulownia is crazy light, like balsa but much stronger. I’m carrying around 7/4, 10’ boards, 11” wide like they are nothing
  18. It will end up being hollow, no need to fill it. It will really get water proofed with the glassing and epoxy coat
  19. So for the second installment of this build I've done a ton of prep work and glue ups. I'm preparing the frame for the glue up of the deck, or "skin". Things needed to be completed were first notching the corners of the cross pieces. The notch is 3/8" x3/8" and a rib will be glued into this notch. Also I'm gluing small paulownia strips to the plywood frame to help with the glue up of the ribs and the skin. Here's what those 2 steps look like; Next I placed some blocking pieces to support the handle. Again, using paulownia; Once those steps were done, I milled some 3/8 x 3/8 paulownia strips to use for the ribs. Glue up took 2 rounds, 1 round per side. Now things are starting to take shape; Since this board is 11' long, I did not have stock that long, so i joined 2 strips at a place were the rib is fairly straight; Also, some small kerf cuts were placed in the rib to help with bending. Paulownia bends very nicely and is remarkably strong. I could have made this bend with out the kerfs, but without the kerfs there was a lot of torque and pressure on the frame. The frame becomes much more stable once the ribs are glued on so the kerfs help the unstable frame maintain it's proper shape; While the glue was drying, i started milling up my paulownia. This wood was milled from trees on my property and air dried by me. It looks pretty ugly in rough form; But cleans up nicely; So what's on tap today is to sand and level the frame. You can see in this pic that not everything is perfectly flush. Some sanding/rasping/ and shaping will fix this; So once the frame and all it's pieces are flush I'll start adding the skin. I'll be using paulownia and red cedar, milled to 5/16" thick. Also, because I'm sure you may be wondering, I'm using TB III for the glue up. Thanks for looking.
  20. Great job with the bench, you should fit right in! Watch out for chair building, I have found it very addicting, but addicting in a good way.
  21. Your right, a real secure and solid job, also a job that allows me to be my own boss and control my schedule. But we really are at a super high risk to catch this thing with the aerosols that our equipment produces. Imagine working in a cloud of suspended water, saliva, and blood. When I say that it sounds pretty gross actually.
  22. Your right, the original has more of a spindly tree root look, and that was what I was shooting for. I didn't expect my to look like a bug. I think the shape of my top contributes to the bug look, more oval and extending out further. I'm glad you like mine better! I think it's just the angle I took the picture from, and I can see a praying mantis also. I'll just call it my bug table. My legs also don't quite splay out as far as the original. I drew pattern after pattern to try and get the look of the original. Thought I had it but missed slightly.
  23. I really feel for those young dentists, they are in a much tougher spot than I am. Hopefully your friend can get by with paying interest only for a while, I think that will be possible if not already possible.
  24. Or cut an inch or two off the bottom of the legs. I'm going to live with it for awhile and likely shorten the legs before making another. We' see. Of course your stool idea works equally well. Coop, I'm not showing everything, I need to hold back a few secrets. Great pick up on the grain on the top, that never occurred to me. Now I'm going to say I did that on purpose. I was pleased with how the table turned out, but it wasn't quite as delicate as the one I copied. Here's what I went off of to make the table; My legs are not quite as delicate and my top is a little larger, giving it a heavier feel. I'm still pleased with my effort, but if I ever do another I'm going to try to get closer to the picture above.
  25. Went to the upholstery shop today and it was a happy day for me. Very pleased with how it came out, but there are a few tweaks I'd likely do, I touch on those at the end. First the good stuff. My upholstery guy loved the chair and really liked the way it sat. He said it was a pleasure to do and is excited to do more work for me. I decided on a textured fabric that was a lighter green, super happy how that looks. I always have thought green goes well with walnut. So here are the pics; Here's the chair with a side table I built to go with it; Here are a few pics of the side table; The side table was also a fun little project I found from a picture in a Danish Modern Furniture book. My wife thinks it looks like a spider. So a recap. First, I too think the chair sits well, but with my wife, the height of the chair and the depth of the seat make it hard for her to touch the ground with her feet. So I think it could actually be shorter in the legs. The seat was only 16.5 inches off the ground but the thick cushioning elevates it considerably. Second, I would like the angle of the seat to the floor to be increased slightly, it's nice now but I'd still increase it and I think it would make it even more comfortable. Thirdly, I'd like the back rest to be about 4 inches higher, doing the 2 things above and keeping the overall height of the chair as is would naturally make a longer back rest, and from there I'd probably need to add another inch or two. So overall I'm happy with it and love the way it turned out, but I would like to tweak the next one. Thanks for looking!