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Everything posted by Bmac

  1. No, have not. They aren't to common in my area, or at least the areas I have access to get logs. I can tell you if I get a chance to mill one I will, that wood looks pretty. Not sure if we'll get the same figure and color up here that you get, but it would be worth the effort. Do you have trouble drying it? I hear it is prone to warping and twisting when drying.
  2. Pecan is in the hickory family and behaves very similar to hickory. Tough to dry without checking or splitting. With that said it, being in the hickory family it is strong and has good shock resistance. Sounds like a solid choice for a workbench to me. I agree that you should check the moisture, but I wouldn't be to concerned if it was in the 12% range for a workbench. I had the opportunity to mill some this past winter, 10 ft log that was 32" wide. Tough going with my chainsaw mill but it had some pretty figure and spalting. Not sure what I'll use for but I have to see how it dries first. Love to see how your workbench turns out if you use it and I'd love to hear how it worked with your tools/blades and etc.
  3. Got it, I see how you are doing it. Smaller logs getting the quartersawn pieces out of the middle and getting rift and quarter out of the top and bottom pieces on either side of the middle. Makes sense to me.
  4. Quartersawn on both sides means your cuts through the center of the log gives you quartersawn lumber on either side of the pith/center, right Spanky? Nice looking sycamore, do you get a chance to mill that often? Why didn't you quartersaw the whole log?
  5. Interesting, so the logger can tell the quality of the log better with the bark on, got it. I usually do my logging in the months of Dec- March, never had bark come off my trees. I guess I thought the bark would come off if the sap is rising in the tree and I assumed that was when the tree started to leaf out and continued until the fall. I learned something from you about that also.
  6. Hey Spanky, tell me why you lose money on a walnut log if the bark comes off. I didn't know that was important unless you are doing live edge slabs.
  7. Never cut burl, I have my eye on a big cherry burl I have access to, but haven't cut it yet. Have you ever cut a cherry burl, I heard they aren't the most predictable.
  8. Can't say I've milled enough of it to know for sure, but it does appear to be prone to that. Those cracks look similar to the cracks on the boards I showed you. So your quatersawn boards are the ones on either side of your cut through the middle of the board, and the crack we are seeing is basically at the center or the pith of the log, correct?
  9. I've used Mulberry for garden bed frames because of it's durability. Unfortunately the logs I've gotten have resulted in small boards, hard to find it straight and of much size. I found this online, really interesting uses for Mulberry; Smoking Meat All four types of mulberry trees offer a dark-purple-fruit variety which yields a desirable wood to use in smoking meat. The yellow wood has a somewhat tangy, sweet, berry flavor and works well when smoking poultry, beef, pork (especially ham) and game birds. Firewood Because it is so dense and therefore burns longer than other types of wood, many people use mulberry for firewood, much like pear and apple wood. This hardwood is popular for cooking fires due to its sweet-smelling smoke. Fence Posts Many farmers use mulberry wood for fence posts, especially the red mulberry, because it is a hard wood yet light-weight and durable. Barrels Mulberry wooden barrels in Haraly, Rumania are constructed to distill local plums and other fruits into brandy. After the mulberry wood is shaped into staves, it is left to dry in the open air. Then, coopers cleanse the wood by taking it through a series of washings before it is made into barrels. The brandy matures a few weeks in the mulberry wooden barrels gaining a special taste and color while losing some of its alcohol content. It also dissolves some of the wood giving the brandy its golden, clear shine. Woodworking When mulberry wood is cut and dried correctly, it can be made into furniture that is light and durable. This wood is easy to dry and easy to work with because it glues and screws well. Its sapwood may be white to pale yellow while its heartwood ranges from light yellow to light orange that turns to a golden brown when exposed to air and light. The course texture and straight grain are features that have made it popular with the Chinese for centuries. Today, woodworkers make turned items such as bowls and other small items such as face plates. Interior Work The dramatic coloration makes mulberry wood popular for interior trim-work, built-in furniture, and custom cabinets. More durable than hardwoods such as oak, mulberry wood is sold as flooring as well. Caskets Bereaving pet owners can purchase biodegradable pet caskets made out of the mulberry wood bark. These caskets are basically light wood boxes with lids. Mulberry paper ash bags can be purchased also.
  10. Bmac


    Being new as a poster on this forum, I did mention in a journal that I was a dentist. I grew up on the family dairy farm and part of me really wanted to farm, but I took the "easy" route and became a dentist. I still love working outside, building things, working with my hands, and gardening, all from my past as growing up on a farm. I run a one man operation as a dentist and get to make my schedule. Of course dealing with patients, staff, and running a business keeps me on my toes when I'm in the office. Out of the office my time in the shop is very stress relieving. Along with running a dental practice I coach High School baseball. This is another passion of mine and playing college baseball opened many doors for me. Helping at the high school level is very rewarding and you can have an impact on young men. My profession may make some of you squirm, but it has allowed me my independence and freedom to pursue my other hobbies.
  11. That is just a terrible joint for a chair, pocket screws and a butt joint. Domino might work better, but you will likely need to remove the screws near the break or your domino mortise bit may hit the screws holding on the side apron. I would also consider adding a corner brace under the seat at each corner to supplement the repair, whether the repair is to re-pocket screw or domino. Even with corner braces I wouldn't promise the world with the repair.
  12. I'll bet that log has some sweet figure, as long as it doesn't crack or split when you dry it. Do you think those guys can process that big piece? Do you do anything different when drying crotch wood? I've had some trouble with it splitting and checking. This past year I started painting the crotch area with anchorseal after I milled it to try and get better results. Not sure if that works, but I figured it wouldn't hurt.
  13. Well that is a big one, I'll need shade and a few cold beers. But that's bigger than my mill, would need to get it down to 34" width, my biggest bar is 42" and I run it on a 36" Alaskan.
  14. Might not be checking, might of been there when I milled it, I did mill an older log that had some cracking/splitting. Not sure if these boards are from that log., it's been a few years since I milled it. But yes these were air dried.
  15. Spanky, as promised here are some pics of mulberry, from a peckerpole log; I put it through my jointer to show you the figure and grain. It's been sitting for a few years, has some checking but it looks better than I thought it would look before surfacing. Have a bunch more of it in use outside but that is too weathered to really see the look of it.
  16. Can't say I've come across sassafras that big, but I'm not doing it for a living. Sometimes I settle for peckerpole logs, but of course it's just me I'm doing it for and using a chainsaw means peckerpole logs are easier on me. Lust curious, how much of a market for your sassafras?
  17. I can take a few after church, it's pretty weathered since I used it outside. I believe I have a few short pieces in my stack, I'll find those. Question about sassafras, how big are the logs you are milling, doesn't get very big here.
  18. I would assume maple and hickory would be the same as oak, or not as bad in regards to insect damage?
  19. Got it, so the increase in color is from that. Mulberry is a great log to let sit since it is so decay resistant. I completely agree about junk logs, milled a number of cherry logs with no sapwood, like you said they can be beautiful.
  20. In regards to mulberry, I've milled a few but nothing that looks like that. If I can find mulberry that looks like that I'll start milling it more. Around here it's hard to find a straight mulberry, and they have a lot of branches. I cut a lot of them for firewood, a few I milled I used for garden beds, they are very decay resistant.
  21. Bmac

    Highback Chair

    The arms are bent lam and it's a tough bend. In my mind you really need air dried for this bend and I'm ok with a little higher moisture % for this. Here's a better photo of that chair: This chair was not in Sadler's book, I did a variation of his highback. I also tried this design as a rocking chair, not nearly as nice as the Maloof Rocker, but not bad for my first rocking chair.
  22. This is a simple and fun chair to build. I started building these 2 years ago and always seem to have one at some stage of building in my shop. This will be my 8th highback and I also did one with arms, so 9 in total. They are addicting to build and look great around my dining room table. The design came from an older book that is a favorite of mine, "Building Fine Furniture With Solid Wood", by Ken Sadler. Reading this book is like listening to your grandfather where you knew whatever he is saying it is wise to pay attention and listen. The build requires basic tools and a good lathe. Even though lathe work is not my favorite, I enjoy turning the spindles and legs for this project because I love the outcome. It seems each chair I make I'm getting a more refined result. This isn't a true build journal, but I did start taking a few photos as I was in the middle of the build. This chair is done in cherry. Seat legged up, seat already shaped, holes already drilled for the spindles. The backrest is laminated; Spindles are turned and measure from 23" to 25.5", long spindles like this on a lathe are challenging and a spindle rest is mandatory. Some of the spindles are darker because I seem to do a few and then set the project aside, getting back to the lathe when time allows. With time they will all darken and look fine. Legs go all the way through the seat and are wedged. Seat is about 1.75" thick. Spindles fitted, ready for backrest; Back rest and spindles glued up. The chair with a rubbed oil/poly finish; This chair will soon join the others in my dining room, this will be it's new home; These chairs are what inspired me to tackle the other chairs I've made, but I still love making these. I have two other seats and backrests sitting in my shop waiting for me to start turning more legs and spindles. I may run out of room in my dining room and if I do I think I'll start giving them out to my relatives! Thanks for looking.
  23. That's some purty wood!
  24. I really like that wavy walnut. I've never cut black locust, but I'd like to get some for some outdoor projects. As for milling it with my chainsaw, all I can say is my mama didn't raise a fool. I'd be hiring someone like you for that!