Bmac

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Everything posted by Bmac

  1. Was hot in the shop today and my lame cooling system barely kept up, made it only partially tolerable. Shaped both chairs to the point I just need to make the backrests and shape the backrests and the backrest area. Everything above the stretchers is sanded to 120, stretchers and below is sanded to 220. I also got 1 backrest roughed out. Here is my progress. Here is the walnut chair shaped; And the cherry chair; For plugs I've used the same type of wood as the one I am building with. I sort of like that better than using a different wood. I've done this with the many Maloof style chairs I've made (rocker, barstools, lowbacks, and bowtie stools). Here's a pic of those plugs. When people look at what I've made they don't even realize I've used screws. Backrests traced out on the blanks; First backrest roughed out. Cutting that back rest out of the large blank resulted in a lot of waste, something I don't like about these Maloof projects. I wish I could laminate and bend the backrest, but by starting in the block shape you are able to cut your dado joints. If I could figure out how to do the dado joint with the laminations I would laminate the backrests. Also you'll see that the way Morrison does his back rests is with 3 boards glued up to get your width. I don't particularly care for this. With the walnut chair I had a thick enough board I was able to just glue on a backer board that the dado will be cut out of. I'll highlight the difference between the two as I progress. If I can bear the heat tomorrow after church I hope to get the next backrest roughed out and begin the shaping of the backrests. This has been a fun project so far and I'm on a roll so I really hope to progress more tomorrow.
  2. We are moving forward with this project. Spent a few hours in my hot shop to begin shaping the chairs. Started with putting screws in all leg joints. Then I started shaping and the joints started to show up. Shaping is so much easier with the interface pads, Hope to have more progress photos tomorrow if I can stand the heat.
  3. My only experience with epoxy is this product. I looked into the West System, and this was easier for me to get (sold at Woodcraft) and seemed more reasonably priced. What you are looking at cost around $30, I think. I've seen Marc use the West System and this seems to have a thicker consistency and doesn't need filler. This is the slower set product by System Three and you simply mix to a 1:1 ratio, simple to use and no need for dispensers and etc. Has 40-60 minute working time and full cure in around 24 hrs. I've use this with some dye to fill in knots and other defect and I will say the thicker consistency made that a little more difficult, but in the end it still seemed to work well for that.
  4. Haven't had a chance to get back in the shop much this week, but when I made it out I continued to struggle with the stretchers. Once I got one chair close to going together well I used the front stretcher from that chair to size my stretcher for the second chair and this helped speed things up. I got both assemblies looking real good, and everything went home tightly with clamping. But when I took the clamps off I continued to have a little spring back with the front legs. Best way to explain that is with some photos; See how a gap opens up in the joint with both legs, and this was happening with both chairs. I finally figured out the problem was not stretcher length but the angle of the stretcher holes in the legs. I drilled these hole by sight and there was no real way to measure the angles. This sort of reminded me of the problem I had, and others had, with the back slats in the Mallof Rocker. Marc corrected this by flattening one side of the round tenon. Once I did that I got a big improvement in fit but couldn't get it any better than this. Tenons flattened; So on I went, I could get the leg joint closed with hand pressure but it would spring back open once released. I thought the spring back was acceptable, at least I hope, esp with glue and screws to support the joint. On to glue up. Epoxy was used for working time. I've been using this system Three with good results. Glue ups done; Time to get a cold one and I can't wait to start shaping the chairs this weekend. Backrest blanks have been glued up and I'll work on those also this weekend.
  5. Got at it again today with some slow going. Hopefully with what I tried to do today I can get some input from others as to if this is the best approach. What I did worked in the end but it was slow and I kept thinking there must be an easier way. So I worked on the stretchers for the chairs today. There are 2 stretchers, one you turn on the lathe and that was straight forward. The other stretcher was one I needed to hand shape, the shaping went fine, but then I needed to make a 3/4" round tenon on each end of the stretcher. This was were I struggled. I'll start with the shaping of the front stretcher, used the Festool RAS 115 rotary sander, rasps and then Festool sanders with interface pads. It only took a few minutes to get here using what I stated above. A few minutes later I was done with half the shaping on this stretcher. As I said before I found using this method of shaping goes quickly with minimal dust. Here's were I ran into the problem, my tenon shaper/maker couldn't handle the curve of the stretcher. I then went manual. Used rasps, scraper with a radius cut out of it, sand paper, and a wood block drilled to the size hole I wanted. The block helped compress the wood and show me where I was rubbing. The wood block finally showed me I was were I needed to be. Then I drilled the hole in the stretcher, That was tough since I already had it rounded. So I got smart and drilled the hole before shaping. Last picture shows the stretcher before drilling, but I'm sure you can tell it is easier drilling the square surface. Next it was to the lathe to shape the back stretcher. First attempt to put together and it wouldn't go home. Wasn't sure if the back stretcher was too long so I shortened that, no help, so the front stretcher was the problem. After multiple adjustments I got the top of the leg to go home but the bottom of the joint was still open. More adjustments and finally got a dry assembly. So I plan to use the front stretcher from this chair and use it in my first assembly of the second chair, Then I'll know if how to adjust the second stretcher length wise. The second stretcher is likely too long just like this one was but I want to confirm before cutting. Also I don't know if my holes in the legs on the first chair were alittle off angle, also creating difficulty. Those were not fun holes to drill, esp after all the time spent on those legs. So, any suggestions on doing the front stretcher tenons better? Or was I doing what I could do and I need to expect it to be tedious?
  6. Got back at it today. To start, here's two pictures of the hang up I get with these joints. Right at the roundover. Worked them all today to get them fitting well. Then I spent a lot of time shaping..... Got the legs shaped and one of the stretchers shaped. Worked the seats more also. Hopefully tomorrow I can finish the stretchers and start working the backrests. A lot of sanding after that!
  7. Yes air dried lumber is much more forgiving to bend and I think it retains it's color better. Don't we all need more time. In the winter I cut for firewood and lumber and have access to the trees, so I usually put my woodworking on hold a little to get my lumber milled. Also milling is addicting, very addicting. There is an unique satisfaction and sense of accomplishment when you can say you started with a tree and personally take it to a finished product.
  8. The answer is typically 2 years, but it's more nuanced than that. I try to get 2 drying seasons. When I say drying seasons, I mean March/April to Oct/Nov here in the Mid-Atlantic. So if I mill wood and put it up in Feb, a year and a half later it should be good to go. Other important things to know is that oak tends to dry more slowly and I might leave that out a little longer. But oak is not a species I do much with, walnut and cherry are pretty easy to dry. I've milled enough now that my stock is able to sit longer because I've got a good supply. But sitting longer outside doesn't get it any drier. The lowest I can get my wood outside is that 12-14% and that typically takes 2 drying seasons.
  9. Ok, now this is a topic I love to talk about but have stayed out of the conversation in this forum. I know I've read different thoughts and beliefs on this here. Bottom line is if I have my preference, I much rather would build with air dried lumber. I've milled my own wood for years, air drying and never worrying too much about it. When I bring my wood into my somewhat controlled shop environment my wood is usually sitting at 12-14%. A few months in my shop and I'm usually down to 9-10%. For projects I cut out my pieces and do rough milling and stickering in between. When I build I just know that I need to build with the idea that my wood will move, and shouldn't we all build that way? This chair is a great example of were the wood will move and it really shouldn't affect the build. This chair should allow, for the most part, the freedom for the wood to move. I mill most of my wood at 10/4. This allows my to resaw for book matched panels and gives me good sized boards for chair builds. Also milling thicker minimizes the waste from my chainsaw mill. I'm not really a slabber and live edged slabs don't interest me much. Only live edge slabs when I've got crotch wood. Wouldn't you love access to wood like this for hardly any expense? Just need patience. You can see I've got a straight edge on this log, makes it much easier to break down in the shop. This is mostly walnut, has sat for 2 years.
  10. Pretty much sand/scrap area to improve fit and then take it all the way home with clamping pressure. The area I have trouble with consistently is were the roundover meets the side of the leg. If your eye follows the gap to the side of the leg you see the gap eventually disappears, when I take the leg out of the joint I see an area of shine/burnished wood. Also if I run my hand over the area the roundover has the slightest lip or edge to it. Likely from not having the router bit perfectly positioned. This lip or edge is always right at the shine/burnished area. In the past I've adjusted the height of the bit in the router to improve the fit but I can never seem to get it perfect. I have found it's just easier to do some minor adjusting. Once I adjust that lip/edge off it usually just about goes home, then clamping does the rest. I will plan to show what I'm explaining in some photos because maybe someone has some insight for me to do this better.
  11. Thank you for the clarification, I used rasps also, not files, I edited the post above. Got my terminology confused. As for the sculpting wheels on the angle grinder, I've used those and they are good, but they produce a ton of dust and make a total mess in my shop. The Festool RAS 115 has some dust collecting ability, though not perfect, and when you use it with 25 grit paper it will chew up wood pretty fast. When I did my Maloof lowback Chairs I used the instructional video by Charles Brock and he is the one that touted the use of the RAS. Marc in his sculptured rocker tutorial discussed the RAS but he preferred the angle grinder. Having used both and having both I have been grabbing the RAS almost exclusively now. Also the RAS is not as aggressive, I think that really helps to get smooth lines/curves.
  12. Got a little more done on this project. Started shaping front legs and started to finesse seat/leg joints. Here's some photos of my progress; Two legs with shaping begun. Festool RAS 115 and rasps did most of the work then used a Festool ROTEX 90 with a soft interface pad. Love using interface pads when shaping, work great! Also, love the RAS for initial shaping. Still a little bulky but shape is starting to form. Glue joint starting to "disappear", esp where I've done a fair amount of shaping. Below are photos of one joint, but this is typical with all the other joints on this project. In fact it's been typical of my past chairs with the Maloof Joint. This is the joint put together just with hand pressure and a few blows with a hammer. This is a second photo, and the hold up is were it typically is for me, on the roundover, or at least that's my perception. A little sanding and scraper work and then a little clamping pressure, looking good. Hopefully I can get back in the shop in a few days, Shaping will be on the agenda for a few days.
  13. Made some progress today. Ran in to a few minor hiccups but should be able to work through. Plan called for seat dados to be 2 1/4" wide, then the video simply said to use a paired Maloof router bit set to finish the joint. Not thinking I grabbed the 1/2" rabbet/roundover combo I used in the sculptured rocker and completed the seat side of the joint. I then moved on to the legs. The legs blanks are BIG and I had roughed them out to about 3" x 4" wide and planned to take the down to 2 7/8" to fit the leg joint (as the plan and video called for). Then I realized my leg joint is already 3.25" wide because I used the 1/2" rabbet. I have another Maloof router set that has a 3/8ths rabbet bit, and I quickly realized that was the bit I should have used because that would have given me the 2 7/8" width. So... Quick reset, the stock I glued the legs up with was 10/4, I had resawn that to slightly over 6/4 for my leg glue up. I grabbed the resawn pieces and glued one of each back to each leg giving me enough stock to fit my larger seat joint and creating a pretty invisible glue joint. But this will keep me from having the original glue joint centered in the leg. Morrison stressed this in his video, he said to try and keep the glue joint for the leg centered for a more harmonious look. That's a look I will not achieve and the only way to achieve that would be to toss out the seats and start over. I couldn't make my self do that so here are some pictures of some of the "off" centered glue joints. I think I can live with that. Also I've noticed with other sculptured pieces I've done that when you do these types of glue ups they even become more invisible with the shaping. I did a glue up in the rocker headrest and the plans called for glue ups for the arms in the low back chair and the arms for the barstool. They look remarkably good. I will touch back on this mistake as I progress and we'll see if it was a good decision to move on. Here are some other photos of what I got done today; Outlined my legs on my now wider leg stock. Trying to follow the grain as best as I can. Think I nailed that here. Leg joints finished and start roughing out seats. Kept away from the seat joint areas in my rough out, simply wanted to start blending together the three seat boards. Legged up with HUGE leg blanks. Boy there is a lot of waste with these legs. Cut the legs into rough shape with the band saw, now it's starting to look like a chair. Next will be to start shaping the legs and fine tuning the fit of each leg to set joint. I'm real close on everything but I've got a little fine tuning to do for one or two joints. Everything comes real tight with clamps, but too tight to put together without clamps.
  14. Thanks for the input. I agree, I'm pretty far along in my journey and I understand it may be difficult to get worthwhile critiques in a forum, but doing this is getting me out of my comfort zone and that is a good thing. Your points about grain matching is just the kind of stuff I'd love feedback on. As for using plans, it's funny that I just started using them the past 3-4 years. I think it has a lot to do with my affinity to do chairs. Designing my own chair would be a challenge. Yes, Scott does a nice job. It was your journal last year on the stools that inspired me to do mine. My 3 stools took a few months and were a challenge. I think you had stools without arms, correct? My plan included the arms.
  15. So I thought I'd join the party. long time lurker, always enjoy the project journals and I esp enjoy chair journals. I seem to have an affinity to chairs, love the process and love sitting in something I made. This project journal is going to be two Sculptured Teaparty Chairs; plans from Scott Morrison. My back ground is that I'm self taught, grew up on a farm where my grandfather made furniture for his house and his son's families. He was never in it commercially. I started learning from him and have been woodworking off and on for the past 3 decades. After making all things with right angles and all things square, I took the leap and did the sculptured rocker using Marc's website guidance last winter and I haven't looked back since. Doing that project really got the juices flowing and I have since done the Maloof low back chair (2 of them), the bowtie stool from Charles Brock, and 3 sculptured barstools from Scott Morrison. My shop is well equipped and the biggest change for me the past 5 years was getting a quality bandsaw. This one tool has had more impact on the way I approach woodworking than any tool I've ever bought. All things square now are becoming all things curved and it's been fun and challenging. My wood comes from my family farm and my property. I harvest all my own wood and most is milled by me with a chainsaw mill. I mostly work in walnut and cherry, but have stashes of hickory, pecan, white oak, maple, sassafras, white pine, eastern red cedar, and some pear and holly. So I'm posting on here to challenge myself. I grew alot when I bought the Sculptured Rocker Project from Marc and I figured taking the leap to have my work critiqued and evaluated will only make me better. Please feel free to critique, the good and the bad, that is why I'm posting this. Here goes....... Here's the plan and the picture of the desired outcome Templates Seat blanks, one walnut and one cherry. The maloof joints are all cut, seats waiting to be shaped. The plan does not call for taking out a chunk from the middle board on the seat, but I've learned with other sculptured projects that this will greatly reduce the time shaping and the amount of dust . Leg Blanks, waiting for final sizing for width of maloof joint in seat. Dado's are the next step before we start band sawing shapes. So, that's were I'm at now, hope to be back with some progress shortly.
  16. First time poster here, lurking and learning for awhile from everyone. Have wanted to join but this topic finally spurred me to do so. Jeepdad, where in Delaware is the widow? I live in DE and I know that the Woodcraft store in New Castle is holding it's annual swap sale on Sat, Sept 16th. I don't work there nor am I affiliated, but I know because I recently upgraded my jointer and was looking to sell my old one at the swap. This also motivated me to clean out my shop and look for other items I don't use or want to upgrade. There is no cost to sell, you can call the store and find out the details. Also I know there are local woodworking clubs that use the store. Since I'm in DE, what large woodworking machines or tools does she have, and any chance she has a festool domino? Can't blame a guy for trying.