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Everything posted by Bmac

  1. Great progress, even though you ended up scrapping it the learning is going to help in the long run. Seat looks great. For the curved backrest, and I know you don't plan on doing it but I had some thoughts I'd share anyway. The lamination makes the joinery much more difficult, not impossible but definitely more difficult. Cutting a curved backrest out of a solid piece with the joinery already done before cutting out the shape is a much easier approach. With that said, I think with some more fiddling with your jig you would have eventually gotten the joint right with the laminated piece. Looking forward to following your progress!
  2. Awesome sites, thank you. I will definitely look into this!
  3. Spoke with the upholstery guy and meeting him this week. That will be a big step and the additional photos you guys found are a huge help. That along with the knowing my joinery it's all about the dimensions now and finding out how to make it comfortable. @JohnG was a huge help finding it for sale, not that I plan to buy it, but the sale page has some general dimensions, over all hieght, width and depth. It's listed as 40 H x 28.5 W x 35.5 D, that gives me a rough idea of the footprint. So I plan now to make a simple style lounge chair to start and get a feel for what angles are comfortable. Found a simple design the I can make quickly and play with to help develop my patterns. This design is straight forward and the way it's constructed, two sides and a one piece seat, I think I can really play with seat height and pitch of the seat. Sort of like a plywood mock up but still a usable chair when finished. Also it will be a surprise moving gift for my son and his girlfriend when I'm done!
  4. I think you are right Nut, I think it's the position of the back support over the leg that gives it the tapered look. In the pic that @JohnGsent it does not look tapered. The first pic you sent me I think the angle it was taken at gives the seat a more tapered look. The nice thing about no taper is I should have parallel inside surfaces of the back supports, definitely helps with construction. These extra pics are so helpful, thanks guys!!! Sure beats dropping $18,500! I tried also to go on the art gallery but couldn't find any back photos there. By the way, I also agree with you Nut about not wanting to visit LA either.
  5. All good points @Chestnut, these are things I need to tweak. And yes @RichardA It does look sleep inducing. Nut that front pic of the chair is great, it helps a ton. Your computer search ability surpasses mine. Was that the only pic you could find? I'd love a shot of it from the back. So from the new angle I have a few observations. I agree with @Ronn W, it looks like it's reclined a little too much, I'm going to try a lessen that. It also looks like the width of the seat narrows toward the back rest. This was something I was wondering about and this shot confirms that. Saves me some tweaking there. I also don't like the wide arms. I like the way they sweep but I'm going to make them more narrow. I've already done this to the arms on the rocker. This chair is listed on the Maloof website, so I think this was one of his last designed chair; Thanks for the input so far guys!
  6. The objective; That's all I have to go off, no plans or dimensions, so I'm going to try a deconstruct the design, develop the joinery and figure out the dimensions. Input is welcome! I'm not trying to make an exact duplicate, but I want to develop something very similar. So here are my initial ideas based off the many Maloof chairs I've made. ***Joinery- starting with the front leg, he has the classic Maloof joint at the seat leg interface. I'm sure he used a 1/2" dowel for the arm to leg joint. All of these are very standard in his chairs. Moving to the second joint on the arm, I'm sure the joint is a butt joint with screw reinforcement, again standard design for him. All of these I'm very familiar with. The leg to the backrest is likely a dowel supported joint, This is what he uses for his feet on his tables and music stand. Here is where I'll deviate slightly, I'll switch to stacked dominos for this joint. Again I'm familiar with this change as I've done it before with the tables and music stands I've made. Now to the seat frame. I've not done a Maloof chair build with a frame before, all the ones I've done have been solid sculpted seats. What I've seen him do on other chairs is a bridle joint for the front joint in the seat frame. In studying this photo and increasing the size it does not look like he used a bridle joint here, It's likely a dowel supported joint. I think switching to stacked dominos would work just fine here and simplify the construction. The back seat frame support will receive the same domino supported joint, looks like he used a dowel joint here. Finally on the the backrest. I'm thinking he has 3 cross pieces, one at the bottom, one in the middle and then the headrest. I can see he used screws for the headrest, but I do not see signs of screws for the other support pieces. I'm assuming those were dowel supported. So I'll try to stay faithful and just switch out the dowels for dominos and use screws for the headrest. ***Dimensions- I have some plans of other lounge chair designs and I have some industry averages. I think I can get in the ball park here. Angle of seat in relation to the floor, angle of seat to backrest, and height of seat in the front are some critical dimensions. Interestingly if you make all the legs on the upper end of the standards length wise, you can always shorten them. Shortening certain legs will also affect some of the angles. The only angle/dimension that is set is the seat to backrest angle, all the others can be manipulated. ***Patterns, this is were I hope to start this week. The front leg design is pretty identical to the rocker, just needs to be longer. Arm rest will likely be very similar to the rocker also. To me the main patterns that are different and I need to develop are the backrest supports and the side seat frame/back leg. ***Upholstery- I have yet to talk to my guy, but I think there are 3 "panels" of upholstery in this piece, the seat and 2 in the backrest. I'm assuming my supports will frame out those panels and also assuming Wood strips and possibly corner supports will be needed for the upholstery. I'll confirm or correct my assumptions after I speak with the upholstery guy. So I'm totally open to suggestions and ideas. Maybe you think I'm on the right track or maybe you think I'm totally off base, but I'd love to hear your thoughts. This is very much a stretch for me but I'm excited to branch out with a new challenge. Thanks for looking!
  7. Let me know if you need help using it.
  8. My list was short and sweet. I received drawing bows (symmetric and asymmetric) from Lee Valley. Been on my want list for awhile but couldn't bring myself to pay for them. Thought it was a good gift idea for me. Now I'm ready to design a dozen chairs.
  9. Well I think I want to try the 3rd Maloof chair, but I wanted to talk with the guy that is going to handle the upholstery with some design questions I had. I also have a few projects I’m wrapping up now so as soon as they are off my workbench I’ll start sketching out my plans. I’ve also been researching designs off and on since my last post and I will likely tackle a chair like the Morley design as well, may do the Maloof and Morley at the same time.
  10. Very nicely done. Love the pic looking down with the liner in the box, your miters line up perfectly. For a few minutes I didn't realize they were liners, I thought you cut a rabbet around the top.
  11. What are you building out of that gorgeous stock? As for the blades you can't go wrong with both. Would love to hear from your experience cutting with both. The Resaw King with it's carbide tipped blade is a great all around blade that stays sharp forever. But those woodslicers impressed the heck out of me. I'll tell you Paul, I don't think you are the only one, I do prefer to have the Woodslicer on the saw over the Resaw King. That blade is impressive and I like the fact that it's only 1/2" instead of 3/4". That makes it more versatile, just doesn't stay sharp. I always have 1 or 2 on hand now. I'll have to do that, I can't say I get a bad cut now with the Resaw King, it's just not as nice as the Woodslicer. Did you have trouble in the past with the Resaw King breaking?
  12. I have one on the saw now because I'm working with some hickory and because I had a small log I needed to quarter. It's a nice blade and stays sharp. I don't quite get as nice of a smooth surface when I resaw with it. Guys on this site have turned me on to the Woodslicer blade from Highland Woodworking for the resawing. Leaves a better surface in my opinion on resawing. They are a much cheaper price but they are not carbide tipped like the resaw king.
  13. Thanks Derek, it is a great design. I believe I read your post about the build in the past, but I loved reading it a second time. You do a great job with your site.
  14. Derek, I do love that Hans Wegner chair, you mentioned him to me before and I did look him up. I think I remember you got one of his old chairs and reconstructed it, correct? You did a fabulous job. Any chance you have patterns????
  15. Boy, I'd be happy to take that off your hands, and hopefully it will help the old sawyers pocketbook! Send me a pm
  16. I'm in agreement, #3 is what I should tackle. I still think I'll tackle the Morley chair in the future, but the Maloof #3 is first. I'm going to do some homework and talk to a patient of mine who should be able to help me with the upholstery. I wish I had a pic of the back of the chair, I think I can handle construction on the parts I see, but the back is somewhat a mystery to me. I'm assuming it's 3 crosspieces. I'll be guessing at angles, but there are standards for lounge chairs I can use and the Morley schematics will also help. This should be fun.
  17. I agree with Nut, using a machinist square against the fence and the blade, it's pretty easy to adjust and snug down in place. The incra has made my life so much better in the shop. Cutting square is no longer a worry. In fact cutting any angle is no longer a worry. I check the squareness of the gauge often, has never come out of square.
  18. I agree guys, that 3rd one is very cool. And I agree with you Nut, would be nice to see some Maloof in that Morley design, or as you put it a mashup. Perhaps since I want to do a lounge chair and with how nice that Maloof chair looks, I should just try and copy that chair.
  19. I'd really like some of that Gum, or if you can get quarter sawn Sycamore! I'd also take curly ambrosia Maple too, and your right, that would look nice in that panel, thought that immediately.
  20. Ordered the plan from Morley. Really just schematics, absolutely no instruction, which I'm fine with. It will take some studying to figure it out but I will likely change it some. What's great about the schematics is it gives me an idea about measurements and angles in the chair. Maloof did a bunch of designs off this type of chair, but I've never had any guides to help me with them. This style has only recently become more attractive to me. It's funny preferences can evolve or change. The panel is spalted sycamore and it is a cool detail. Not one I'm sure I'll keep though. This one is going to take some thinking, I'd really like to see it with more sculptured features, esp in the arms. The arms look so boring to me in this piece. Here are some Maloof samples; And my favorite from Maloof; So I'll see what I can figure out. Any thoughts?
  21. Looking for a new challenge and I've been interested in building a Mid-century lounge chair. I was very excited to see that Philip Morley has plans on his website for his lounge chair; This is a sharp looking chair. Has anyone here built this or a chair similar to this? I've bought the plans and hope to dive into it this winter.
  22. That is enough to make a sawmill guy cry. Have prices of logs dropped considerably also?