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Everything posted by Bmac

  1. Totally inspirational, thank you for sharing. I really love the lines you developed in that second chair! I for one hope Randall keeps sharing with us!
  2. Thank you Joh! Love MCM also. I used a high end upholsetry guy, cost me north of $700 for the chairs. I do think you could do it cheaper. I think my first attempt at these chairs was solid, but I'm making refinements to the next set. Excited to share these when I'm done, I think they will look less "bulky" and softer/more delicate. Now, let's talk about the real name of the Z-chair. Selig produced, but Jensen designed this chair. I debated what to call it, even thought the title should be just Z-chair, but in the end I gave the nod to the designer in the post. Still, glad to see a knowle
  3. Great to have you join us! Love to see new blood.
  4. Looking to wade into some lamp building. Interested in doing some MCM floor lamps and some turned MCM table lamps. These would really go with the Z-chairs. So has anyone used a company that supplies kits for these kind of projects? I've searched the web some and perhaps it's me, but I'm getting more confused the more I look. Thanks in advance for any help.
  5. Have one of those and used one for years. They are hard on the back, very unforgiving. Upgraded 2 years ago to this Fiskar, absolute joy to use compared to that other maul; Haven't tried a splitting axe yet.
  6. I love to split by hand, cheaper than a gym membership, and cheaper than a log splitter.
  7. I use a 2x8, angle irons are screwed to the underside of the guide board. These angle irons help keep your board straight, helps reinforce your board so it doesn't sag, and lifts the board off the log (allowing for working around protuberances and branches). Like @Chestnut I use 2 or 3 screws to secure the board to the log. Shimming the board is often necessary also. My guide board is 8 ft long, I usually mill logs between 7 and 5 ft long, easier to manage. Here are some pics of the board in action on some smallish logs; Some guys use ladders or other setups for their f
  8. Wow, so glad you joined the conversation @Randall Child!! As you probably noticed I'm a Maloof fan, but the fact that you knew him is really cool. Love your chairs and I'd be very interesting in seeing more of your work. Also, I am very interested in learning more about the joinery Maloof used in certain situations. I've studied his work and sometimes I can't figure out how he put things together. Through you relationship with him is this something you learned more about? When I tackled the lounge chair I had very little to go off of and I'm not sure how off base I was with my constructio
  9. Well, happy day when I pick up chairs from my upholstery guy. Very happy with the result, the fabric looks really sharp with the cherry. The chairs are very comfortable, very comfortable. Couldn't be happier with these. So lets put a bow on this build; I'm in the middle of building two more out of walnut, I'll show those when done. It was fun to get back into building chairs. Thanks for looking,
  10. @JohnG, some really good points by Nut. Squaring up your logs and getting rid of the live edge has a lot of advantages. It makes the boards easier to move since they are lighter, makes them easier to stack since they have straight edges, easier to process in the shop, and a real big one is it helps a ton with bugs. If I get any bugs in my wood, it's always where I left bark. Now squaring with the Alaskan works, but this is where the Logosol attachment shines. Here are some pics how it works. First cut done with board and Alaskan. Then a jig I made is screwed onto the flat surface;
  11. @JohnG, I have a couple 660s and upgraded last fall to a Stihl 084. The 660 will get it done, esp if you are milling smaller logs. I put a 42” bar on the 660 and it handled it, but it was a slow go on the wider 36” logs. Still, it worked. My 084 is definitely a step up. Logs 20-26” wide are easily handled by the 660. I got all my big saws used and have been happy going that way. Once I buy them I take them into the shop that works on my saws and have them go over them. I also bought a 460 and a 440 used, love those saws but they would be pushing it to mill with. My 440 is a tota
  12. Super job, Nakashima would be proud of that! Not that the antique cars are bad, but I could think of a certain chair that would really look nice with that table.
  13. Yeah I understood that, I mentioned steaming but I guess it seemed like I was comparing kiln dried to air dried. But I do believe you get that little extra depth of color with air dried over kiln dried (without steaming), but not nearly as stark as the difference when you steam it. Steaming walnut should be against the law, just leave the sapwood, it can be very attractive in walnut. Looking forward to seeing this table with the top on it.
  14. Super job and looking great, I'm sure Nakashima is not rolling over in his grave, your doing him proud with this one. Love my air dried walnut, so dark and rich, it's one wood that kiln drying and steaming can really mess up. Unfortunately those dark rich colors do mellow out some, but you still get a depth and look with air dried that is superior.
  15. @Mark J, I have used Osmo before. Used it on the Hank Chairs and on some other pieces. I do like it, esp love the fewer coat it requires. It is a little hassle using Osmo on a piece with all the nooks and corners these chairs have, and my hand was cramping up with all the scrubbing of the finish in different directions and angles. I see myself using the hard waxes more in the future, maybe the hand cramping will stop as build up my scrubbing hand. When I do my Maloof stuff I like to be as authentic as I can be, so I use his finish. Probably unnecessary to think that way, but in a small wa
  16. Yes, thank you Gary, this is a great solution for the interior of these boxes. Placing an order now!
  17. Well the sanding, shaping and finishing is done. Glueups went well and I'm pretty happy with the contours. Used Osmo as the finish, 2 coats. Chairs were delivered to the upholstery guy today; Side shot, pretty happy with the shape and look; A few pics of the contours and shape, not as intricate as the Maloof Rocker; And right before loading in my truck, the two chairs sunning themselves; I'll come back around to these once the cushions are made. Thanks for looking.
  18. Well that is definitely not a failure @Mark J, it would be nice to have those joints disappear a little better, but that is really not bad, you really hold yourself to high standards. The main joint that I see is the lid to body joint. Now I made a bunch of these since I originally started this post, most ready to be given out as Christmas gifts. I do have a few thoughts on these boxes after doing more of them. First, I just live with the rough inside surface, it really doesn't bother me. Secondly, I'm sure you did, but use the blade he recommended and get a new sharp one if yo
  19. There was a lot going on in that piece of wood, and unfortunate about the bark inclusion blot, but it still came out beautiful. It really would have been cool if you found a 5 dollar bill in the chunk, at least you would have broke even. Question on the wood, that wood is much lighter than the walnut I use. Walnut does lighten with time and exposure to UV, but you just turned it. If you told me to guess what type of wood you used, I don't think I would have guessed walnut. Was it Black Walnut or was it possibly English Walnut?
  20. @Mark J, I left the inside of the boxes unsanded, but like @Just Bob said you could do some sanding if you steer clear of the mating surfaces. But by staying away from mating surfaces, that also means staying away from the top of box to body of box junction. That is an area that you cannot sand and won't be hidden in a glue joint. I did some texturing on a few boxes and really enjoyed the process. Now I look at all my scrap wood completely different, esp after this video and doing some carved bowls last year. In fact I find myself admiring firewood chunks like never before. @Just B
  21. Big step forward with this chair. All the pieces have been cut and all domino joints completed. Was able to do my first mock up and see how the chair looks. I did find a few missteps on my part, but for the most part I'm very happy with the look and the way all the parts fit together. The missteps have been noted and will be corrected in my next set of these chairs (I plan to do 2 in walnut when completed with these). Here's the chair assembled, minus the back spindles; Here is my biggest misstep, my bottom back rail was not wide enough. When you look at the origin
  22. Angles, angles, angles, this chair is all about angles. With that said I'm very pleased with how this is progressing, it seems like I have the angles pretty well figured out. As I mentioned earlier there are a few things to get right with this chair, namely the front leg parallel to the back side support. Making those joint surfaces parallel on the backleg/arm support is key with that. Keeping the backside of the side back support perpendicular to that joint is also key. So after emphasizing those points again, here's my progress so far; All the sides are completely glued up, last step wa
  23. I saw that too Coop and was thinking the very exact thing you were thinking. Was thrilled to see they featured his work, well deserved.
  24. Roughing it out with the Festool Ras 115, then cleaning it up and refining with rasps. Finally a random orbital sander with an interface pad.
  25. On to completing the sides of the chair. My plan is to glue up the sides, then determine joint locations for the cross pieces. I'll shape/sculpt the outer face of the side pieces, but leave the inside faces untouched as the 90 degree angles will help me with my joints. I'll only shape those inner faces once I have all the cross pieces fitted, but before glue up of cross pieces. One important guide for me is the back edge of the backrest support, this area is flat and will be a reference point for me with placement of the back rest. Here are the 4 sides glued up, minus the arms, they need