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Everything posted by Bmac

  1. Yup @Coop, @treeslayer got it right, Mid Century Modern
  2. Very nice, like the clean lines and the attention to detail with the continuous grain. Did you use anything to reinforce the miter joints? I'm assuming dominos but wasn't sure. I agree with you on the MCM stuff, kind of grows on you.
  3. This also might be of some help.
  4. Bmac

    Domino Time

    I feel the same about making M & T with routers. To me they are versatile, but they are not enjoyable. It's my least favorite tool in the shop. Some people love them but they are noisy and very messy. Another reason for the Domino, and you won't have a tool that creates less mess than the Domino Let me reemphasize, @Chestnut said the same thing, the small dominos are more useful than you think and are GREAT for panel glueups. Can't really do that easily at all with a router and a router jig.
  5. Bmac

    Domino Time

    I'd go with the 500, for a few reasons; Cost, always great to save some bucks. The 500 goes up to the 10mm domino, which I find to be a good size, the 700 only goes 2 sizes larger, 12 and 14mm. The depth of the mortise is not as great with the 500, I believe it goes up to about 1 1/4" deep while the 700 goes up to about 2 3/4". I do wish it went deeper, but I find the depth of the 500 adequate AND you can increase the width of your mortise with the width settings on the 500. So if you make custom "dominos" you can go much wider than the factory dominos. Say you need more support, well you can always use the 500 to stack or do multiple dominos in thicker stock. But for me, hands down when the 500 is used for gluing up panels the accuracy of the domino has given me the best and flattest panels. The ability to easily size down to small dominos for panel gluing is something I do with almost every project. So in my mind this one factor makes the 500 the best all around choice. I guess you could use the 700 to do this with accessories, but then you've lost the speed and simplicity that you get with the domino.
  6. Wonderful post and that little dovetail plane is quite interesting. I agree completely with your reasoning of putting the base of the legs in the same place on the underside of the case. Really curious why the location of the leg bases were off, and the fact it was exactly the same the second try makes me even more curious.
  7. This chair is headed out the door to the upholstery guy this week. All the shaping and sanding is done and the finish has been applied. One new wrinkle I've added to my sanding which has really helped is after sanding to 400 I burnish the surface with a white 3m pad. This has made any grain raising during the finish application practically disappear. Wanted to go over the upholstery side of things, because I was confused about how he wanted things and I incorrectly described what he wanted. We met last week and clarified things. First is the seat. rails 1/2" below the lip were glued and screwed in place, following the contour of the seat rails. He wanted a 1/2" frame to sit inside the opening, with about 1/8-1/4" gap all the way around. He'll use the frame for webbing, he'll put padding on that, put the fabric over that, and then the seat panel will just fit into the opening and a few screws can secure it to the chair. Here's my frame sitting in the seat opening and resting on the rails; For the back he wanted a frame that had about 1/8" clearance all around the back opening. He'll make the back cushion as a panel using webbing again. After the panel is made he'll screw it into the frame and cover the back with fabric. Earlier I was confused about this step, I thought he wanted the frame glued in place. The back frame also needs to follow the contours of the headrest and the lower cross piece. To achieve the look of "2" cushions in the back area, I placed two cross rails. This will allow him to pull and secure the fabric right were the cushions appear to meet. Here's what this frame looks like; And finally, here are a few shots of the chair with the finish applied; This build so far has been super fun. I see more upholstered pieces in my future, totally opening up another dimension in my skill set. I'll post final pics after the upholstery in done. Thanks for looking.
  8. Bmac

    SawStop setup issue

    I have to step back to something @gee-dub asked earlier, I apoligize if it was answered but I didn't see it answered. The ZCI that came with my sawstop had no slot cut into it. The directions were to lower the blade, put the insert in, turn blade on and slowly raise the blade to cut the slot. That's the whole idea behind the ZCI insert, the slot is only supposed to be as wide as the blade and the slot needs to be cut out by your blade. Was that how your insert was supplied or did it already have the slot cut? If it already had the slot cut in your ZCI (which would make me wonder why we are calling it a ZCI), the slot is probably the reason. Saw blades are thickest at the teeth, when you raise the blade the thinner part of the blade was not rubbing the slot at the problem area, when you lower the blade the thicker teeth are hitting the slot in the problem area. If the slot was already cut I just think the slot is off, to me that seems the most logical cause. If you actually cut the slot than in theory you should have no rubbing. But if there is rubbing it likely means you just need to run the saw and cut the slot wider by raising and lowering the blade. Ditto on the Freud blades, just stay away from the thin kerf models, they are typicall too thin for the riving knife.
  9. They will be in physical form, no PDF. I can trace my patterns on a large sheet of paper and mail them to you no problem. I'll also be happy to point out the joinery I used and where.
  10. Learn something everyday. Thx
  11. Tom, what's going on with their chimney? Looks like there is a pretty big space between the roof and chimney.
  12. I wouldn't charge, wouldn't even think of it. It would be a pleasure to see someone else build this. Yes you would need to do the guild rocker first at the very least. My templates may look more like a puzzle with no directions if not.
  13. Thanks Chet, my version is far from exact dimensions of the original, guessed at a lot of measurements. Glad you've enjoyed following along. Thanks John. I'll be happy to share templates but don't expect video lessons to go along with them. I'll tell you those new saws are terribly expensive. I've had great luck buying refurbished used Stihl 660's. The nice thing about the 660's is they are easy to repair and get parts for. Dropping $600 or so bucks for a used one is a big savings. Ha, you got me figured out.
  14. The upholstery guy said he'll need to test it some to figure out how much to bulk up the cushions. When we looked at the photo's of the originals he did comment that the cushions are pretty full contoured. When you are ready I can send you the templates.
  15. Purchased a few books on MCM and Danish Modern, not how to books but very much picture books for inspiration. I will say that because the books are not woodworking centered, you'll get pics of all different materials used for the furniture in these books. It is helpful to see the lines and shapes though. Here are the few I think are somewhat helpful. This book on Danish Modern is fairly interesting, and cheap. Not a bad reference but absolutely no woodworking insight, purely visual and inspirational. For MCM, these two are somewhat helpful for inspiration, again no woodworking insight; Overall I found the reading and designs interesting. It gave me a few ideas, but I can't say they are must have books. If you are interesting in this style and want to delve deeper than they have a purpose. I do think they will impact my design and builds somewhat in the future. Next I'm going to investigate books in the American Studio Furniture Movement. Interestingly, the above books are somewhat separate from this movement, very little cross reference. For example, Maloof was never mentioned in any of the books. Nakashima had a few mentions.
  16. I can understand your sense of satisfaction, you have a neat design that you envisioned years ago and you are building chairs. As a self proclaimed chair junkie by @Mark J, nothing is more satisfying than building chairs. Maybe I'm reading to much into your comment or maybe you are feeling the first symptoms of chair addiction. Things are looking great with the chairs and congrats!
  17. Thanks Paul. I'm actually really surprised myself how well it's going. I've had a few things not go perfectly, the back supports looking too short and the length of front leg above the chair too short for perfect arm stock placement, but those were easy to correct. I think I've just made enough Maloof chairs that I understand his construction. There is no way in a million years I would have figured this out otherwise. One annoying aspect of this build is I have to wait until the very end to actually sit in the chair, no early test "sits". In fact the upholstery guy will be the first to sit in it. When I'm done I can send you a copy of the templates!
  18. Quick update, I've been out of town for a dental mission trip. Finally getting over my jet lag and into the swing of things. Before I left i glued the back supports to the frame. This lets me move on to the arms. My design was slightly off as my 10/4 stock for the arms did not match up as well from the front leg to the arm stem on the back rest. Really needed my front leg .5" higher and I would have been dead on. So I made a new "longer" template for future reference and I glued .5" pieces to the front part of the arm stock. Arms were perfect then and fit the stock to the chair and shaped my arms. Now we are moving forward; At this point arms are just screwed on, need to do glueup here and then final shaping. Upholstery guy stopped by and need to tweak my back frame and make a frame that sits in the seat opening. Once that's done it's final sanding and finishing before it's off to the upholstery guy. Thanks for looking.
  19. OK, this will be real simple then, you won't even need templates for this. Cut your leg blanks to full width and then do your joinery, you could even do traditional mortise and tenon joinery here. After your joinery is completed cut away the excess material. Here is a pic to further explain. The hatched area is the area you remove after joinery completed. Then you do glue up and sculpt the pieces together.
  20. I just caught back up to this. I misunderstood what you were going to do with the end spacers that are glued cross grain to the case. I thought you were going to make vertical cuts into the spacer to relieve the potential restriction of movement of the case. If you make a few vertical cuts into and through the spacer these cuts will not be visible and they will allow the case to move more freely. No longer would you need to hope the spacers "stretch" if the side of the case expands. I think this is an easy thing to do that would add some piece of mind.
  21. There are a lot of ways to do this, templates are basically essential. With the shaping I use rasps, gouges, sanders, and die grinders. Here are some examples of what I used to make Jory Brigham's Hank Chair. With this I start with a full size template and cut the full size into smaller pieces: Then trace my pieces to my stock. Notice how I use existing straight edges for certain orientation of pieces; With this project I then used the template to set the angle of my cuts; This really simplifies it, and there are other ways to do this. Doing a table should be pretty straight forward. Are your joints going to be at 90 degrees?
  22. You have a few options for this joint and builders of MCM furniture used differing methods; First, the easiest is using the Domino for this type of joint. The MCM builders 60 years ago did not have this technology, but it is commonly employed now for this type of joint. Second, floating tenons. Morley uses these I believe. Third, dowels. Fourth, screws and glue with a plug covering the screw hole. Here is an example of this type of joint, attaching a chair back to a leg using the domino system; Once it's glued the piece is sculpted and shaped so they two pieces flow and look blended. This is what a joint can look like after sculpting, it looked like the previous pic before sculpting;
  23. Yes, I thought about that also, the thinner internal piece will likely lessen the problem.
  24. I like that idea, didn't even think of it. Could even do 2 grooves if need be, not sure how long the end pieces are. Do you think the vertical grooves will affect smooth drawer movement? If they do I'm sure you can come up with a solution for that as you move forward, and as you said the grooves will be completely hidden. By separating the internal piece you've likely solved the main problem of the cross grain glue up! Great idea!
  25. Just got back in town, I've been meaning to comment on this. My vote is maple, curly maple or ambrosia maple. Better yet some Spanky curly ambrosia maple is the best in my book. Here are a few examples; Cherry with walnut looks pretty darn nice at first, but that look "fades" with time. As the cherry gets darker the walnut gets lighter. Many of my early pieces were these two woods together, and now it's hard to tell them apart. Here are a few examples from a bed I made years ago;