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Everything posted by Bmac

  1. Looking good, and don't listen to @treeslayer, no days off allowed.
  2. Back at it. I've done about as much research as I could do. Now it's time to put things on paper. Started with a flat line representing a flat surface the legs will sit on. From there I transferred the heights of all the significant parts to the chair- seat, arm, and back of chair. These heights are marked in relation to the line and this is where I start. I also have lengths for the back leg/arm support, front leg, and backrest support. Also have the angles, from there got to this; A few key measurements here- you want the backrest to be parallel to the front leg.
  3. Very interesting design, but it does look surprisingly simple. I think you can easily figure this out without plans. I wouldn't worry too much about stool hieght, height will be determined by counter height. Typical counter height of 35-37" calls for stool height around 24-26", bar height of 40-42" calls for stool height 29-31". Grain orientation should be carefully considered for the legs, but if you have good grain orientation I think you will be fine. I would consider adding strechers, esp if you are going with the higher stool height. I don't think it will detract from the design too
  4. Excellent job with those drawer fronts, looking great.
  5. I agree on both counts, that Maloof lounge chair is a better looking chair, but I don't dislike this chair.
  6. This chair has always interested me, a true Danish MCM classic. It's a chair that has been in the back of my mind to tackle and last Jan when I moved my son into his new apartment, a number of remakes of this chair occupied the lobby of his complex. I was so happy to get a chance to sit in and inspect one. It's a comfortable low slung lounge chair that I think could be made with loose tenons (domino) as long as I could figure out the angles and dimensions. I've quietly been researching this chair for the past few months and I think I have enough info to jump in. Finding the plans and details o
  7. So sorry to hear that. I agree with you Shane, losing stuff is something I could overcome because insurance replaces stuff. Insurance doesn't replace what you put into you pieces, nothing can replace that. My condolences and wish you the best in rebuilding.
  8. I'm in the bayside waters behind Long Beach Island NJ. The official name of the body of water is Little Egg Harbor.
  9. Well @Mark J, you asked for on the water pics, so here goes; "Yours truly" on the maiden voyage; Some appropriate pics waterside; The kayak handled well, was a complete joy to use. It was well worth the effort to make and I can't wait to make another. Thanks for looking
  10. I agree that on the water pics are a requirement for this one. They will be coming. @wtnhighlander I also agree , option D sounds best.
  11. Alright, I have not been hiding, I've been varnishing my a*% off. Four coats top and four coats bottom after a lot of fairing and sanding of the epoxy base. After varnishing, on went the additions that make the boat complete. Here are the pics; Ready for the water, fully rigged and set up, just need to add the float bag for the front compartment; Handmade walnut handles drilled thru hull; Front bungee cords, left them a little long to see how it goes; Bungee cords again and hatch behind the cockpit; Hatch in place and off, you can see the
  12. Very nice Cliff, great result and great grain selection. That was air dried walnut, correct? I don't think you typically see those colors in kiln dried.
  13. @wtnhighlander, I have no idea if that would work or not, interesting thought. If it really bothered me I think the thing to do would have been to sand out before adding extra epoxy. If you look at it with a fresh coat of epoxy you can see it's less obvious, in fact I think some of the filler I used at the deck to combing juncture looks worse.
  14. Another big milestone, for the most part all the pieces of the kayak are together and glued in place. I still have little stuff like the seat, backrest, tiedowns and toggles for the hatch to put on the boat, but that will be after finishing. So after glassing the deck I got some of my parts epoxied on for the cockpit and hatch opening; After that I cleaned up and feathered the hull area where the glassing draped over on to it. You can see a few drip lines and the edge of the glass. Epoxy should fill that in.; So on to another coat of epoxy over the glassed dec
  15. Tom it's 4 oz glass, I think they refer to it as E glass, but I'm not sure. It's compatible with epoxy. I've used 6 oz glass on some of my boards, you can definitely feel a weight and thickness difference.
  16. So yes, it's not my shop, it's my garage, and it's working well without my main tools as much of the work is easily handled with a handsaw, rasps and block plane. I also have a small festool vac and sanders I moved into the garage. It makes it easier in the garage as my shop isn't tied up, I have more room, and I'm in a less of a dusty place. I did not trim the glass after the first pic, I wanted to wrap it down to the hull. You are right about the folds of the draped glass over the sides, those were easily flattened and smoothed once it was wet and you can see in the bottom pic were the
  17. A couple of big steps toward the finish line. I now have the deck attached to the hull. To start the process I attached the deck via packing tape and then it was turned on it's side; I mixed a thickened mixture of epoxy and had to basically crawl into the kayak. Here's a look at the joint prior to filleting with epoxy; Here are the tools I'll use; This is the epoxy fillet placed; After the fillet is placed I wetted glass tape and I'll be rolling this into the seam; Here's a few pics with the tape in place; After 24 hrs the
  18. Interesting, I've noticed sharpies do not hold up and have been burning my signatures lately. What "archival pen" are you using.
  19. I wonder how this things compares
  20. No, it is not an illusion, they is a slight mound around the bolt. The mound is some filled epoxy to give some holding strength to the bolt. It may slightly affect the seating, but more than likely not as there is some relief on the underside of the foot support. The foot supports won't be placed until I'm done construction, tape on threads of bolts protects any wayward epoxy from creating a problem as the deck is epoxied on next.
  21. Paul Looking at your basement journal shows you are anything but a slug.
  22. Picture heavy post as I'm paddling toward the finish line construction wise. Deck underside was cleaned up and before glassing I ran a bead of thickened epoxy at the junction of the combing and the deck. This creates a smoother transition for the glassing but also strengthens this mostly end grain glue joint; Glass laid out on the underside; Epoxy applied; Just behind the cockpit, they recommend you place an extra layer of glass, as this is an area you will sit on to enter the cockpit. Extra layer placed and then saturated with epoxy; Nex
  23. OK, got it, I see what your saying, but I feel like I'm dragging, really wanted to get all this done over the past weekend. Curious, what canoe plans are you looking into?
  24. I know @Chestnut, I'm dragging on this build. Actually been pretty busy cleaning up around the house after a near miss with a tornado. Fortunately for us we weren't hit but high winds still did some minor property damage. Also, it was tedious putting together the strip decking. I think if I do another one of these (perhaps not if, but rather when), it will go better. Took me a while to get the feel of it and the process down. But nevertheless, I'm now done with the top deck. Did a little cleanup of the surface, but will wait for the final sanding and finishing of the topside after I glass the
  25. Some from my property, other logs from our family farm, and still others that I got leads on and milled. A lot of my patients know I do this and I've gotten quite a few logs from them also. The canned gas has no ethanol and is stable. I still try and run the saws a few times throughout the year, just start them and run for a minute or two. For milling I usually mix my fuel at 32/1 gas to oil, I can get 40/1 in the can. Watch running wet logs on your bandsaw, I've had some problems with that. The dust collection has trouble with the wet heavy sawdust.