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Everything posted by Bmac

  1. Some from my property, other logs from our family farm, and still others that I got leads on and milled. A lot of my patients know I do this and I've gotten quite a few logs from them also. The canned gas has no ethanol and is stable. I still try and run the saws a few times throughout the year, just start them and run for a minute or two. For milling I usually mix my fuel at 32/1 gas to oil, I can get 40/1 in the can. Watch running wet logs on your bandsaw, I've had some problems with that. The dust collection has trouble with the wet heavy sawdust.
  2. Quick update, the strip deck is just about completed. A lot of fiddling to get the pieces to fit and you really can do all of this by hand. I've been using a handsaw, block plane and rasps to fit together the strips. Here's were I'm at right now, hope to finish up the deck by the end of the weekend. Stern is pretty much done, 2 very small sections need to be filled in but I'll do that once I take the deck off for glassing; Bow is coming along; To fit together the pieces you need to cut your angles and make a cove where one is needed, rat tail rasp works great;
  3. Tom, getting a smaller mill and using a chainsaw mill to half and quarter logs might be a way to go. You have the equipment to move the cants. To add to this discussion about mills, and I understand this isn't helping Tom make a decision, if I was looking for a mill as a hobbyist, a chainsaw mill is the one to get. It's more versatile and this is the key for me. It's all I've ever needed as I mill for myself and to feed my hobby. It's by far the cheapest option, my first mill with a used power head was well under $1000. Nothing beats the portability, no need for skid lo
  4. I'm up to my next in white oak, quarter sawed 4 logs 2 years ago and then I got that nice shipment from you this spring. Even though I know it's going to be nice wood, I'm going to have to pass. Maybe you can pry some other wallets open, may take a big crowbar.
  5. Are you going to QS that or is the log too small?
  6. Bmac

    We're fine

    Yesterday was a crazy one here in Delaware. A tornado blew through my hometown, not catastrophic damage but significant damage nonetheless. I have a number of patients that had trees fall on their homes, roads are closed everywhere and if you have electricity you are fortunate. My office and house are 5 miles apart, the path of the tornado basically went right between them. Fortunately no damage at the office and just some limbs down at home. Alot of potential lumber and firewood laying on the ground all around here!
  7. They included the walnut with the kit. The kit has 3 wood strips, walnut, alaskan white cedar and western red cedar. I did not do cove and bead with my SUPs. The bead and cove really help to get a closed joint as you connect the strips on a curved surface. If you start 90 degree edges, you'd have to bevel the edge based on the curve. With bead and cove the joint is always closed. My SUPs were pretty flat so I was able to use 90 degree joints. I could make some strips, key would be to find straight grained wood, knots and imperfections would not be able to tolerate some of these curves.
  8. I'm not sure, but the container of wood dust is pretty darn light also. I think the weight difference is minimal. The nice thing about wood dust is if you need extra it's pretty much free. There is a form on the deck that will be the cockpit. I just put the strips up against it to form the man hole.
  9. Well I didn't forget about this. Went away this weekend, but did some work on it during the week and today after we got home. Here's my progress so far. The hull of the boat is pretty much done, last step was to glass the outside, after a quick sanding. This went smoothly and all my experience glassing boards really paid off. Here's the glassing laid out; Now with the epoxy; Time to move to the top deck. First forms for the strips were hot glued in place. this was a little bit of a headache, but it worked out; The top of the forms were covered with packing
  10. Bmac

    Shinto Rasp

    It's my understanding you can. I think the process can be used on both machine and hand stitched rasps. Their website do not specify they only sharpen machine stitched. Your question prompted me to do some research and I found on other sites that people have had Auriou rasps sharpened by Boggs, but there was a lot of questioning whether they would sharpen them. They use a liquid honing technique that uses abrasives in steam pressure to sharpen the back side of the teeth.
  11. Looks like you beat @Coop to it.
  12. I can't take all of Spanky's good wood.
  13. I'm digging this, nice work. I'm not a huge fan of his Conoid chair either. But I want to definitely make some because of my addiction to chairs. It's also a chair that I think non woodworkers marvel at.
  14. Bmac

    Shinto Rasp

    It seems I'm using rasps for every project, whether to fair a curve or to round an edge. Shinto is a nice tool, but can't be used inside a concave curve, I have one and use it for aggressive stock removal. I also have Liogier and Auriou, like the Auriou a touch better. Only have a few coarser rasps for quick material removal, but I go to them first for this because of the control I have. Rasps really allow me to refine curves. Most of mine are finer rasps and I find new ways to use them every project. Quick question, does anyone remember the organization that can "resharpen" rasps? I have
  15. Let's keep this thing moving forward. Important steps today, did the filleting and glassing of the inside of the hull. It takes 4 steps pretty much in succession. I mixed a lot of epoxy. No mess of fish yet @Chip Sawdust! So I started with removing all the wires and fitting some blocks to the stern area. These will be imbedding in epoxy. You can just do and end pour after the construction and fill this area with epoxy, adding rigidity and allowing for a hole to be drilled thru the stern for a rope handle. I'm accomplishing this with these blocks, it does save some weight; Next
  16. For today I now have what looks like a kayak. On tap was to finish stitching, working and getting alighment of the panels correct, and tacking the panels together with epoxy. Here's the kayak after stitching; Checking out to make sure there is no twist in the kayak; It's amazing how simple it was to get to this stage. There is a lot of stress on the wires in some areas, but it still is not too hard to coax the panels together. Here is the tacking of the joints with epoxy. I was told to mix it with wood flour until it was the consistency of ketchup. It see
  17. It's my understanding Hal does a few different things, esp with the headrest. Best plan hands down is Marc's. His instruction videos are superb, I mean really superb.
  18. Let's get this thing going. I made the drive to Annapolis MD to pick up my kit. Threw the few boxes in my F250 and home I went so excited to start. It's completely amazing how well the kit was packed and amazing how few pieces you start with. Most of the stuff are cans of varnish, epoxy, and other construction essentials. They really do outfit you well with this build. So here's the "kayak" unpacked; The 2 stacks of wood you see wrapped in plastic are not actuall part of the kayak, they will be used as forms for the strip decking. Here's my progress on day one. After
  19. I measure from the front after the boards are cut to length and I cut my joints before the glueup of the seat. As for the back legs, you may not be as far off as you think, once the joint is cut in the leg and the leg placed on the seat, you will have the seat overhang, or stand proud of the leg. This is ok and will be cut back later once yoy start sculpting/shaping the final look of the seat. Now in my build, using Brock's and Marc's plan, an adder block is added to the inside part of the leg and this is something you could do also. I think I showed that process clearly in my post
  20. ^^^ What he said. Nut is right on with the angle and the drop. Drop is real important to keep you in your seat. Now I might go closer to the 7 degree angle for the back based off of that kind of chair. I would think you don't want to recline too much since your feet need to rest on the foot rest. As for stock i'd seriously consider 6/4 or more. If you went 8/4 you could even shape in some slight curve to the leg, you can even possibly do it with 6/4. If you keep the legs straight I'd not go less than 5/4, that chair will look better with a more substain leg, at least in my opinion. I actu
  21. I've been a little quiet on here lately. Since going back to the dental office, I've had 3 months of patients backed up. This has really cut into my free time so I'm needing this project to give me some sanity. After I finished my SUP (which I documented on here) in April, I had enough time and wood to build a second one before going back to work. They have gotten a lot of use since then, and their success got me wondering about building a Kayak (which might turn into plural in the future). So after doing the research, I decided to go the kit route. The kit will include instructions, glas
  22. Thats a real nice start with the seat.
  23. So yes, the legs splay. With my Rocker builds, using Marc's plan (which is from Charles Brock), we do a 6 degree splay. This is not accomplished with the seat cut but by adding a 6 degree adder black to the inside of the back leg. I've never seen Scott Morrison's video on the rocker build. I've used him for some other sculptured chair builds, so I'm not familiar with his technique here in splaying the back legs. What I can say is whe you are doing those cuts to splay the legs on my build, I always get confused and mixed up on which direction the angle cut is, and it always seems like I'm
  24. Yes, I understand that, I plan to use this for fishing so speed isn't a big factor. The stability of it's 30" beam was a big factor in my choice. I have my eye on another kayak if I like this build and I enjoy kayaking, that one will be a longer and faster model.
  25. Thanks for the link, I'll try to follow along too. My kit is for the Wood Duck 12 and is from Chesapeake Light Craft also. I only live an hour away from them and I hope to pick up the kit next week.