Bmac

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Everything posted by Bmac

  1. Okay, I'll restate, the boards I see have great figure, your bench is veneered with the pretty stuff. Great job with the bench by the way.
  2. It has pretty good looking figure, that's all I was getting at. I think I get some of my prettiest cherry from cherry logs that are not the straightest or cleanest. When it's dried it may have wane sapwood, but it has character.
  3. That cherry is too pretty for a workbench, I'm thinking of all the chairs you could have made from it.
  4. Really enjoyed walking through that process with you. Thanks for showing so many pics and giving such a good dialogue. Can't wait to see the final pics!
  5. Come on Nut, you got a lathe now, lets see some stuff. Awesome stuff Mark!!
  6. I know, none of this 4/4 stuff is going to get that done. I do have quarter sawn 9/4 drying on my property, but that stuff dries slow!!!
  7. True, the footprint is big. What dimensions were you thinking of reducing? I'm sure you could make the rockers 5-6" shorter with no problem, you could change the angle of the back legs to 3 degrees instead of 6 to decrease width at the top, and you could probably even lower the back rest some. I think all those are probably simple enough mods. I think the look would not suffer too much and it would likely be just as comfortable. You know, I honestly was a little shocked at my time. I was wondering if I was shaving time off like rounding down 15 minute here or there, but still if I did that I would have only added an hr or two in the end. I think my speed is based on a few things, first it was my 5th rocker and I'm not sure how many sculptured pieces before this. Second, I've made enough of this Maloof furniture that I don't have to think twice about my shaping. My mind already envisions it and my hands have had practice getting there. In the beginning it's typical to be hesitant and go much more slowly in fear of making a mistake. I've over come that fear and just plow ahead. Finally, and probably most significant, I have developed a system. Combining the tools I'm comfortable with and a process I refer to as power shaping/sanding I am able to work faster. Combining the RAS, the interface pads, and the rasps I do 90% of the rough shaping with those. I love the Festool 90 Rotex for it's small shape/profile, light weight, and ability to use with one hand and not get fatigued. The 90 may not be the most powerful Rotex, but it helps immensely with the process. I think any brand of smaller sander would work with the interface pad, but I do the the aggressive mode that Rotex offers. I'm sure you can tackle this project, those crazy shapes you make take my breath away. This project is just like any other, one step at a time.
  8. Rickey, that wood was a real pleasure to work, now I hope you can find some more this winter!!!!! Coop you are way to kind. I think it is sacrilegious to say that. I'm just trying to copy the original. Glad you liked the journal, I find doing a journal helps me to do my best. Now I want to see what you make out of Rickey's awesome curly maple!!!
  9. First, all 3 woods, cherry, walnut and maple, were ideal for this project. The tiger maple with all its figure really turned up the wow factor and was very easy to work with. I've made 2 of these rockers before these 3, and those first two were cherry. Can't really say I have a favorite wood, I think all the woods worked similarly and all took just as long to sand. This chair is a real labor of love, by the time I'm done I've felt every surface, edge, joint, corner and roundover hundreds of times. The hand sanding is tiresome, but at least at that point you can see the chair and it's nice form and shape, that's enough to encourage one forward through the repetitive parts. In the end the tiger maple is by far the prettiest one I've built. That figure just popped! So I guess @Chet the tiger maple is my favorite. @JohnG Unfortunately for you they are all very comfortable! Actually the cherry rocker is a Christmas gift for my father. I'll keep the walnut and curly maple ones with me. I hope to make a few white oak ones for the porch in the future.
  10. Ok, @Spanky got me going to finish up this post. I had put my last coat of finish on the Rocker yesterday and so I went home at lunch to move it into the house and grab some pics. When I left off here I had to do the final sanding of the rockers and lower legs. Then it was wet down the whole rocker to raise the grain and then resand the whole rocker. Dye was applied next and again I had to resand the whole rocker! Once those very joyless tasks were completed I got to apply the finish and then for the first time see what this wood had to offer. Well it didn't disappoint, God made some beautiful wood here and Rickey was the man to find it! The wood is really the big star of this piece and the dye I used really made the figure POP. I hope @treeslayer approves. For the finish it was 3 coats of the Maloof oil/poly then 2 coats of Maloof oil/wax. Each coat was applied with a rag, let to sit and then rubbed down vigorously to remove all the excess. Last night as I was applying the last coat, I couldn't resist to snap a few pics of the figure. It really pops with the oil still wet; So finishing this was a complete joy. Here are a few pics of the chair; Some details. I love the horn detail, it seems so organic to me how it flows. Here's a shot of the headrest and the horns; Top of headrest flows into the front line or edge of the horn; Again you can see that flowing line and see how the cove of the horn flows into the concave area of the headrest; The contours of the bottom of the headrest; Inside of the arm detail; Great figure in the seat; Front leg detail; Leg to seat joints; Rocker to leg interface; And to wrap it up, here are the 3 rockers I've made this year, one from walnut, one out of cherry, and the last from some great Spanky curly maple; Thanks for following. Hopefully I was helpful with posting this build. I can't say enough how much I enjoy this build. I will likely not make another one of these until I get some white oak dried sufficiently. White oak is a slow drying wood, I need to be patient, most of it was milled last year. Total time was surprising to me, it went quicker than I thought it would. I was at 59.5 last post. This post added 3 hrs for all the sanding/wetting/resanding/staining/resanding. Applying the finish of all 5 coats was time consuming also, another 2 hrs. So my total time start to finish was 64.9 hrs, time well spent in my book!!!!
  11. Bmac

    Roasted Wood?

    This subject prompted me to do some quick research. Roasted wood the same thing as torrefied, thermally treated or tempered vulcanized wood. As Tpt mentioned above it created a wood that is more resistant to decay and moisture changes. The process actually changes the cellular structure to the point that wood shrinkage and and expansion becomes negligible to changes in moisture. It commonly used by Luthiers for guitar necks. Here's a quick article for DIY roasted wood; https://www.popularwoodworking.com/nov15/roast-your-own/#
  12. Any day now, maybe even later today. I put the last coat of oil/wax on it last night. Took the long road with the finish, 3 coats of oil/poly and 2 coats of oil/wax.
  13. Ahhhhh! I see, I think I understand now, just don't ask me to do that!
  14. Moving along nicely. Gluing up thinner boards to make thicker stock can be grunt work, but you are right it has it's advantages in that you can pick your best outside surfaces. Question on stock, I thought you were using pine for this. Is it going to be pine for the top and birch for the base or did you just decide to go with birch.
  15. Interested in following this, I'm not really sure how you are getting there but I'm in!
  16. I was hoping this build was going to pop up again. Love following along!
  17. Well the reason for the laminates is you are gluing the riser onto a surface that is not flat, but rather has a curve. So the strips that make up the riser become part of the curved lamination that is the rocker. Absolutely a spoke shave works on shaping a lot of these areas. I've really gravitated toward the rasps because of their versatility and the fact you don't need to pay attention to grain direction and etc like you do with a spoke shave. That's pretty high praise and I've humbled you would even think that. Thanks for the kind words.
  18. Getting ready to wrap this build up! I've got the whole rocker assembled and I'm finalizing the last bit of shaping. I'll walk you through the final steps of construction and shaping. Where I left off last time I was finalizing the headrest joints and the horns. Here is a few pics of the horns, it takes quite a bit of work to get them to this point, esp since I'm dealing with all different grain directions in the horn. This is a view from the rear, key point here is showing the flow and the continuous line developed from the front edge of the horn down to the top edge of the headrest; Looking down the horn from the top, you can see how the cove of the horn continues down the back to a cove along the headrest to back leg joint; Front view of the horn detail, again highlighting the continuous flow of the lines from the backrest to the horn; Next up was shaping the rockers. Basically rounding over the top and bottom edges and adding some detail to the rear part of the rocker. I did just about all the initial shaping with the rasps, then on to small sander and interface pad to 180; Rocker glue up! Final glue up for this project, a big step. Epoxy was used, need to drive a 3.5" long dowel through the rocker and into the back leg. Using TB is a disaster waiting to happen in my opinion. Any swelling of the dowels and you are sunk. We now have a complete rocker; Back leg interface prior to any shaping; Back leg with initial shaping, mainly using rasps; Front leg pre shaping; Drawing some guidelines for reduction; Initial shaping with the RAS; Shaping roughed out, mainly using rasps; What's left is the final sanding of the rockers and the legs at the rocker leg interface. After that I'll wet the whole chair down to raise the grain, resand everything and then apply the dye. Not looking forward to that step. Time it took for these operations; Horns and shaping rockers- 1.5 hrs Sanding rockers, glue up- 1 hr Shaping back leg to rocker interface- 1 hr Shaping front leg to rocker interface- 1 hr This takes me to a total time of 59.5 hrs. I'm really quite surprised at the time, I thought it would be higher. Thanks for looking.
  19. Bmac

    Dust collection

    Yes it can take more room, but with some planning you can do it without using much floor space. My unit for the table saw is able to sit under my outfeed table. My shop vac for the miter saw and spindle sander sits under the table that they sit on. My sander vac also lives under a workbench.
  20. Bmac

    Dust collection

    I’ve improved my dust collection quite a bit over the past 15-20 years. I did it gradually and I have a dedicated separate building for my shop. Because I did it gradually I’ve gravitated to smaller tool specific dust collection. Shop vac for planer, smaller shop vac for miter saw and spindle sander, 1hp mobile unit for jointer and small bandsaw, 2hp dedicated unit for bigger bandsaw, a small canister type Rikon for the table saw, and a dedicated vac for sanding. Ended up with piecemeal units and never put in ducts. The shop vacs double for overall shop cleanup and everyone needs at least one in the shop. Starting your dust collection with a shop vac or two is a good way to get into it. Dust collection for sanders are a big must in my opinion. No matter what you use the miter saw and table saw are hard to get good results. At least the units I use capture the finer dust. I do hate wearing a respirator type mask, absolutely hate it. I do wear it, but not as often as I should.
  21. I don’t think a a table as small as you are looking at, 4’ x approx 3’, will have a problem with 3/4” stock, esp if you “framed” it with another layer. I was thinking you could put the extra thickness far enough under the table to attach the apron. So let’s say you frame the bottom with 4” of extra stock and at the end grain I would not put the 4” piece across the grain, I would use a series of 4” long pieces that would match the grain direction of the top. Also you could glue extra thickness where the bottom supports attach. I guess my suggestion would be more in line with expensive stock. Nevertheless, gluing up two boards for the whole top would also work well, but that’s a lot of gluing and I would think more work than if you just did the frame idea. I’m assuming you be needing to glue up two boards or maybe three for the legs, correct? i do like the design.
  22. I would lean more toward A, I think it would be easier construction wise. Another thought, could you just glue up the the perimeter for your bevel and to give it the appearance of a thicker table leaving the middle of the table 3/4 inch thick?
  23. You did not buy a bunk slab, you bought a slab with the pith through the middle, you have only one solution, cut the pith out. Any other attempt to prevent cupping will not work. As for the white spots it’s hard to tell but I’m betting the inside of that slab is a lot wetter than you realize, definitely wetter than your outside readings. One positive, once you cut out the pith you’ll have two nice quarter sawn pieces.
  24. So I have the whole thing just about assembled. This post I'll cover glue up of headrest, fitting the chair to the rockers, drilling the dowel holes in the rockers, final shaping of the headrest. Once I shaped the top of the spindles I then sanded all the spindles to 400 grit. This is very time consuming and is mainly hand sanding. Once I sanded the spindles I put them and the headrest on the chair and screwed the headrest in place. this is always an exciting milestone in this build. This is the first time I get to actually sit in the chair. @Chet was wondering if the lessening of the curve in the headrest was going to affect the comfort of the chair, and I was curious too. Well it passed the "sit test". Felt as comfortable as all the others I've built. So I think this is a great option for someone who wants to modify this build to 8/4 stock. I may make a pattern for this so I have it on hand for future builds. Here's the chair assembled but not yet glued; And a side view; Now since I had the top of the rocker assembled I thought this is a good time to get the chair up on the rockers, balance the rockers and get the legs to fit the rockers; Here are the leg to rocker discrepancies; You can see I scribed some lines for reduction, reduction done by the RAS, rasps, and Morrison's sandpaper trick; After some finessing we are good. Morrison's sandpaper trick is posted on Marc's build, it's worth looking at. Now using a dowel center I mark where I need to drill my hole for the front dowel, this is drilled freehand; Once the front dowels are in place you go to the hairest part of this build, you drill the holes for the back legs. I was so stressed doing this I totally forgot to take pictures. Marc shows it well on the build, but it basically is a 3.5" long hole you drill through the bottom of the rockers into the back leg. The angle you drill is tricky since the legs splay and the rockers are on a radius. I mark the midline of the underside of the rocker, eyeball my angle, take a shot of scotch and then drill. These came out nice, just about in the center of the top side of the rocker and into the meat of the back legs; So those are BIG steps to finish, the rockers now need some shaping and sanding before gluing them to the chair. Next I want to do the glue up of the headrest. Before doing that I I took the time to wet down the spindles to raise the grain on them. Since I'm using a water based dye, and these will be hard to sand once glued up, I'm trying to think a step ahead. Spindles were resanded to 400 and then I did my glue up. An important trick I've learned for this glue up is to use a clamp to "separate" the back legs. I do this because with glue on both gluing surfaces of the headrest joint, when you try to position the headrest into the proper place you can get a gluey mess. Here's how I separate the back legs prior to gluing; Just a little pressure does the trick and creates enough separation so you can position everything without having glue get wiped off the joint surfaces and all over the chair. Glue is put in the seat spindle holes, spindles get placed, glue in holes on the headrest, headrest goes on spindles, glue then goes on the chair and the headrest at the joint area, headrest is moved into position and screws are started on both sides to hold the headrest in position, the the separating clamp is removed. Now you have everything positioned correctly and you can now screw and clamp the headrest in position. Epoxy used here mainly for working time and I also did't want the spindles to swell and make seating them harder; While that glue up is curing I do some bandsaw reduction to start with the shaping of the rockers; I like to clamp the rockers together and harmonize the front shape; And here are my guidelines for rounding the rockers, one side has been rounded with the rasps and the other side is marked up; Once glue in the headrest area is cured you have some delicate contouring and shaping to do. Front side of headrest before blending; These areas are pretty easy, can handle with small sander and interface pad followed by hand sanding. Sorry, forgot the post sanding pic. Here's the backside, a harder area for access and blending up into horn. Thought I'd show a series of pics as I work through the process; Still quite a bit of shaping and sanding left but the end is getting near! Time spent; Sanding spindles; 1 hr Fitting spindles and tryin of headrest; .5 hr Fitting rockers; 1.25 hr Drilling dowel holes for rockers; .5 hr Wetting and resanding spindles; .75 hr Headrest glueup; .5 hr Blending and shaping headrest; 2 hr Total to date; 54 hrs
  25. Really neat tool @Shane Jimerfield, I think they would definitely fit into this build. To really get any force on a rasp you do have to hold the tip of the rasp with the other hand. On days I use my rasps a lot I feel like my left hand has been rubbing sandpaper all day, not to mention what the rasps do to my wedding ring. I'm going to keep an eye on that link and hopefully they come back in stock, I'd love to add them to my tool chest. If they were in stock I'd put them on top of my Christmas list. I especially like that he has sourced the rasps from a great rasp manufacturer, Liogier. Now the one short coming I see in those rasps is you don't have a fine tip to work in tight areas and for delicate shaping, but they would be perfect for most other things. Thanks again for sharing the link.