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Posts posted by Bmac

  1. Just got back in town, I've been meaning to comment on this.

    My vote is maple, curly maple or ambrosia maple. Better yet some Spanky curly ambrosia maple is the best in my book. Here are a few examples;




    Cherry with walnut looks pretty darn nice at first, but that look "fades" with time. As the cherry gets darker the walnut gets lighter. Many of my early pieces were these two woods together, and now it's hard to tell them apart. Here are a few examples from a bed I made years ago;




    • Like 2

  2. Much better solution for the drawer dividers, getting the grain running with the top and bottom is something you really needed to do. You could have gotten away with the other setup if you just glued the front edge of the dividers and left the rest floating in the dado. Because you are covering the dividers with your drawers you would have been ok (no end grain showing that would look out of place), but you still would have the issue of expansion and possible buckling of the case. I like the change to getting the grain matching the top and bottom of the case. 

    I am still concerned long term with your side pieces you glued on to the ends of the case. I know you built in some room for expansion, but I'm worried such a large area glued up cross grain like that may cause other problems. Mainly cracking or splitting of the sides of your case since the sides will not be able to expand horizontally. Also the top and bottom are not restricted like the sides so you'll have differing expansion and contracting going on with the sides and the top and bottom. Early in my woodworking development I've paid dearly for gluing areas cross grain like that. 

    Do you think it's possible to plane off those pieces without ruining what you have done so far? Don't mean to be hyper critical, the work you are doing is exquisite, hate to see that kind of workmanship like that suffer in the long run. 

    • Thanks 1

  3. 1 hour ago, Chestnut said:

    Nothing really. The chairs that initially gave me the design idea are $350 each in cherry. It's not a massive sum but it's expensive compared to the $450 the lumber will cost me.

    Well my point is a lot of chairs you buy today are not going to have the joinery you plan to use. Most mass produced chairs are just held together with dowels.

    Regardless of their construction, 6 x $325 is $2000, minus your $450 investment saves a decent sum. I know it's not massive but sounds like you have an argument to add a new tool to the shop, or at least buy some more lumber!

    • Like 1

  4. Really like the detail in that backrest, very cool. What you are making would be so expensive to buy. Most mass produced chairs are lacking very much in quality. Not many pieces of furniture get worked as hard as a chair. It's one thing to buy a mass produced cabinet, no one sits on it or drags it across the floor. Mass produced chairs cannot hold up to what people put them through.

    • Like 2

  5. 5 hours ago, Chestnut said:

    I could pretty easily get that little band mill on a trailer it's only 12' long and doesn't appear to weigh too much. It is called portable after all. I agree though that the chainsaw is more portable. My trouble is a lot of the places I can get longs I can't mill logs as they are on public property where it would be in the way or private property that I'd be unlikely to get permission to do said activity. At least with a chain saw. A mill that sounded like a lawnmower with a 4 stroke engine would be easier.

    My thought is to just make the logs small enough to move. 6 foot logs or even 4 foot logs are easier to move than 8 foot or 10 foot. Yeah there is a bit more work but it's the difference between getting the lumber or not.

    Very true, those portable mills are portable, but you still need to get the log on the mill. Dragging a log out of a ravine or out of the woods is no easy task. Nothing is as portable as a chainsaw mill, and nothing works you out as hard. I agree with you that keeping the logs smaller helps, but you do end up losing some on each end with possible checking. My sweet spot is about 7 to 8 feet. Why? Well my truck has an 8 ft bed, any longer the boards get too heavy, and I have a bunch of 8 metal roofing to cover my piles. 

    Also I always mill thick and resaw in the shop, minimizes loss of material with the wide kerf the chainsaw makes.

    2 hours ago, Spanky said:

    Bmac you need to come down with that monster 084 and I will let you cut some timber on the side of the mtn all day long.  :D

    Boy sawing all day with that would make you Paul Bunyan. But it chews up some wood. My favorite saw to cut with, not mill with, is this sweet ported Stihl 044 with a 25" bar, that thing is pretty light, nimble, and can really cut. Seems to be the perfect mix of power and size. Don't like cutting with my 660s much, little heavy. 

  6. 24 minutes ago, Tom King said:

    You would need some method to handle logs, but I already have that.  Otherwise, there would be more investment needed to handle the logs.  One thing about the chainsaw mill, you can mill the log where it drops.

    Nailed it there Tom. If you can't move logs the bandsaw mill is a problem. Also with no hydraulics on the mill it makes it tough, but not impossible.

    I love my chainsaw mills because of it's portability. Works great for me to mill all the wood I can use. 

  7. 1 hour ago, Chestnut said:

    Jealous.... some day hopefully soo i'll have a nice new MS661 and mill setup :)

    First time milling with a new saw, picked up a Stihl 084 this fall, 122 cc's of milling power. Got it used of course, matches well with my three Stihl 660s (2 were bought used, the other is a Stihl clone).  Milling is hard on saws and I frequently have had one of the 660s in the shop during my milling season. 

    I think I have an issue with chainsaws, I own 8.

  8. Thanks guys for all the comments, I've enjoyed reading everyone's thoughts. A few comments from what I've read.

    @Chet, so right that many of us have different styles in our home as we have the ability to build what we like. I too have a mish mash of styles and it doesn't bother me because I know I have pieces that are well made and expensive to buy.

    @curlyoak, great point about the medium in which we work, using beautiful wood really makes a piece, regardless of style.

    For those who like the ornate styles, I completely understand your attraction to it. It classic and challenging.

    Didn't mean to put down Shaker style as a simplistic style construction, but it seems to be many of our first styles we built.

    3 hours ago, Chestnut said:

    I wanted to share this with you Bmac and get your opinion. I really like this chair and i feel like it fits your style somewhat.


    Yes Nut, that chair is something I'm attracted to. When I've looked at Finn Juhl stuff, some of it is a little to out there for me but that chair hits my sweet spot. Thanks for the link, it's interesting for sure.

  9. 8 hours ago, Coop said:

    I too don’t care for the fancy Chippendale style. It makes me feel like I’m in a museum when I’m around it.

    I also don’t care for the Danish Mid Century style as it looks too Ikea-ish and Retro. It also reminds me of the “cool” crap we lived with in the 50’s, or, mid century. 

    Like Bmac, I got over the live edge real quick with my first furniture build and like him, it was a coffee table. But I kind of grew fond of it and still have it. 

    I’m kind of like Ross in that I prefer a simpler style with  just a little pizazz added. 

    Coop, I was with you on the MCM style a few years ago, couldn't figure out it's attraction. The Ikea like look was a real issue with me too, esp all the plywood used in pieces. But looking at pieces from some builders (Maloof, NakiShima, Esherick, and even Krenov) they upped the bar on this MCM style and it has sucked me in. Also, with my love of chairs this style has alot to choose from.

    @Chestnut I just ordered a few MCM books, I'll get you a review in a couple weeks. Real excited with a book I found the ranked the 100 best MCM chair designs.

    • Like 2

  10. With small hand sanders I prefer the smaller dedicated units. The larger unit you linked to should definitely be a possibility but for my smaller tools the shop vacs, two prime examples are Fein and Festool, will probably do a better job at the localized fine dust extraction you produce with hand sanders. Here's a link;

    My Festool "dust extractor" sits under a work bench right where I do a lot of my sanding. Small footprint and out of the way. Turns on automatically when I turn on my sander. Never think about it. Love it.

    • Like 2

  11. Yes, I really appreciate Wegner, learning more all the time.

    As for your comments on A&C, I've liked what you've done to some of your pieces to make them look more light. I can see A&C in my future and definitely working to make the look delicate. Agree that many people do it with a heavy hand, thats what my original comment meant.

    Jory is interesting in my opinion, he has some different designs and his construction methods are very intriguing. I've incorporated some of his ideas in the current Maloof build. As for the Hank chairs I made, they actually ended up in my dental office. I know I softened it quite a bit and it really doesn't look like the original design, but patients go absolutely crazy over the chair. They LOVE it. I was very surprised to see how much love this chair gets, because it's not my favorite. I always find what my patients like very interesting as I get a good cross section of the population. My office currently has 8 of my chairs. The 2 Hank chairs, 2 Maloof lowbacks, 1 Maloof highback, 2 tea party chairs from Morrison, and a bowtie stool from Brock. Seems like different people like different chairs but those Hank chairs may be the most popular. 

    I also did that simple lounge chair prior to my current build to work out seat angles and it only took week.  But it sort of grew on me as I was making it. I gave it to my son and his girlfriend for their apartment and they LOVE it, absolutely love it. My daughter loved it also and said I really need to start selling these things. I said no one is going to buy that and she mumbled something about being out of touch. I did agree to build her a few out of white oak to put by our pool.

    I agree with you also that your post is a little light on MCM reference material. I'm going to do some research on that.

  12. I'm interested in starting a conversation about furniture styles. We talk quite a bit about styles in a somewhat haphazard way, and Nut did a great job with the style references post. This kind of post might have been done in the past, but I don't really remember one, at least as long as I participated in this forum. I'd like to hear other's opinions on the styles you prefer and why. My eyes might be open to something new that I never considered or realized.

    I started woodworking with right angles and M&T joinery. Shaker simplicity was my first real influence and it fit my skill set. Getting a bandsaw totally revamped my view of woodworking. That tool along with quality hand tools opened up so many different options for me. Mid Century Modern started creeping into my designs and of course the sculptured stuff is a big draw for me. But the MCM just keeps intriguing me more and more. In an article I was reading it says MCM can be grouped into 3 categories; the bio-morphic, the machined, and the handcrafted. It's the handcrafted style with the heavy Danish influence, it's simplicity and clean lines that has created a somewhat timeless style, at least in my mind. Here's the article I was referencing;

    I've tried to read and study Greene And Greene, but still haven't embraced this yet. I think I could and I'll keep giving it a look. Love to hear why others like this style.

    Arts and Craft style is something I think I will eventually jump into since I quarter sawed a bunch of white oak last year. The AC style is alittle blocky in my mind, but I think I need to be exposed to it more.

    Federalist, Chippendale, Hepplewhite and Sheraton style is just too ornate for me. 

    Rustic and slab design isn't even on my radar. It's funny, over 20 years ago I made a slab coffee table with a funky spalted maple slab. People loved it and still love it, but I hate it. Gave it to my son and his girlfriend for their new apartment. They love it. It's a real shame that Nakashima's use of the live edge slab has been so bastardized. 

    I know I've missed quite a few styles here but hopefully this is a topic that interests others as much as me. Thanks for looking.

  13. I just caught up with this also. Sounds like you are not too terribly restrained by finances, but still clearly a factor. Your budget should allow you to purchase tools that will serve you well for a very long time, if not for as long as you do woodworking. 

    As with Nut and Coop, I do so much more of my rough cuts on the bandsaw, only use the tablesaw for joint work and precise dimensioning of the wood. As with @JimReed, I love my SawStop. Precise machine, some of the best dust collection around, and great safety features. As a dentist I put that priority way up there.

    But, I totally agree with the many others that recommend a jointer and planer before a new tablesaw. Investing in these opens up a whole new world of precision and allows you to use rough sawn lumber. I started with a 6" jointer and a Dewalt planer over 20 years ago. I now have the Dewalt planer (the 735 mentioned before) and a 8" jointer. If I was smart I would have started with the 8". You can get by without the jointer for a while with a tablesaw, tracksaw,  and a planer if you use a sled for your planer and the track saw and tablesaw for fairly precise edging.

    In your initial post you listed your power tools, but not sanders or other woodworking specific tools. If you have these things than I apologize, but these are important additions to my shop. First you need a dedicated vac for your sanders, I use festool and love it, totally love it for dust control. There are other brands out there, whichever brand for me one of these systems are critical. Secondly, if you have the funds, not a necessary tool but a great tool is the Festool Domino. Festool is over priced and I only own their sanders and the Domino because they are great tools. 

    • Like 1

  14. 1 hour ago, curlyoak said:

    I really like the 3rd chair also. But looks are one thing and feel is another. I can never tell by looking if a chair will be comfy. If I sit it it then I know. And I have no chance to sit in a 3rd chair first. But the third chair looks like it should be comfy. What wood will you use to back the upholstery? 

    I'll use Walnut, you can follow my progress on this post.


  15. Well I think your observation is spot on for that pic, but I think that pic is a little deceiving. They are still 2" wide. I'll reduce the width to about 1.5" and won't change them thickness wise much if at all. I think the finally dimension of those back legs at the tip will be 1.5" x 1", I'm ok with that. For example I turned the front legs to 1.25" at the base. We'll see but I appreciate the observation.

    Maybe I should put a max weight sign on the chair!

    • Like 1